• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1135-1145
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to identify the desired seIf-images of male college students according to situations, and to construct fashion product unities bought by male college students for different situations. Empirical data were collected by self-administered questionnaires distributed to male students at 4 universities and 2 colleges in Daegu and Gyeongbuk area during June 2005, and 346 were analyzed, eliminating incomplete ones. Subjects were required to respond to 32 desired image words in 4 different situations respectively: school, meeting girlfriends, ceremonies, and exercises. As a result of factor analysis on desired self-image words, 5 factors were determined: refined image, sporty image, classic image, natural image and simple image. Based on the desired self-image factors, male college students were classified into 3 groups: selective image management group, passive image management group, and active Image management group. Fashion product unity of male college students for the school setting was consisted of round shirts, jeans, running shoes, bags and watches. Aloha shirts/knitted shirts/V-neck shirts, cotton pants/jeans/semi -formal pants, formal shoes/running shoes and watches were the fashion product unity for the setting of meeting girlfriends. For the setting of ceremonies, the fashion product unity included Y-shirts, formal dress, formal shoes, neckties and watches. And for the setting of exercises, the fashion product unity included cotton shirts, training suits, running shoes/jogging shoes/basketball shoes, armguard and caps.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.747-764
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• 1995

The purpose of the present study were 1) to identify the dimensional structure of impression formed of a female figure, 2) to analyze effects of several elements of apparel design on impression formation of the figure in suit. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimuli and a response scale. The stimuli consisted of 60 drawings made by identical manipulations of 3 indepndent variables in 3 clothing styles(suit, dress and pants with blouse). The independent variables were (1) five clothing colors (red, blue, yellow, white and black), (2) two lengths(short/long) of suit skirt, dress, and pants (3) two types of blouse and dress collars (shirt collar/ribbon collar). The 7-point semantic differential response scale to measure the dependent variables (formed impressions of the female figure) was composed of 37 bipolar adjectives. Further- more, two open-ended questions were used for interpretation of the reponses. The study proceeded in three independent experimental part was based on the 3 clothing styles using a 5(color)$\times$2(length)$\times$2(collar) factorial design. Subject were 200 female undergraduate students reandomly assigned to one of 20 combinations in each part of the experiment. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, 3-way ANOVA and Multiple Classification Analysis. Five factors emerged to account for the dimensional structure of impression of the female figure in specific attire. These factors included three basic dimensions of impression identified as potency, activity and evaluation, confirming the results of previous studies. Result from open-ended questionaire supported the theoretical perspective of Schneider, Hastorf and Ellsworth on the procedure of impression formation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.31-41
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• 2013

By researching Western equestrian clothing, this study investigated the process in which styles of menswear are introduced into women's sportswear. In addition to women's equestrian clothing shown in paintings and illustrations kept in overseas museums, this study also analyzed books addressing 200 years of Western dress style history, from the late $17^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. The analysis data present the design characteristics of women's equestrian clothing according to different periods. A total of 21 works were used as research data: two from periods prior to the $17^{th}$ century, three from the $17^{th}$ century, ten from the $18^{th}$ century, and six from the $19^{th}$ century. The research results show that items of trendy menswear were commonly used in women's equestrian clothing during the late $17^{th}$ century - to be specific, in all forms of clothing worn on the upper body, including coat and cravat, tricomhat, and accessories. Women's equestrian clothing after the $18^{th}$ century took the form of menswear. However, the uniform was also generally worn with a fitted, tailored redingote on top of the robe, along with pants. In the $19^{th}$ century, women's equestrian clothing became longer in length, like men's styles. The uniform gradually lost volume, and the jacket became shorter and narrower. In addition, the drawers were replaced with pants that came down to the ankles, which were similar to men's trousers. Breeches also became knee - length, thus following the style of menswear. These results show that women's equestrian clothing, worn during horseback riding, a sport previously enjoyed by Western aristocrats, were similar to what men wore. Also, in contrast to the distinct differences seen between men's and women's daily clothing, the equestrian uniforms of women showed a tendency to follow the clothing style of men.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.15-32
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• 2020

This study aims to develop contemporary fashion designs from the unique Yao minority costumes and to explore the possibility of developing creative designs by using knitting materials. The research method is based on the cultural clothing and costumes of the Chinese ethnic minority, as well as literature concerning the Yao costumes and photo data to investigate the cultural background and characteristics apparent in Yao costumes. The overall design characteristics of Yao costumes are as follows. First, the shape of Yao costumes are divided into straight-lined short tops with pleated skirts or shorts, or cardigan tops with pants and aprons, or long shirts, pants, and a belt. Each variant of tribal clothing is different. Second, the colors used are mainly black or dark blue, and these are accented by other colors, such as red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and white. Third, the clothing patterns are mainly in plant, animal, natural, geometric, and human, etc. motifs. The most common patterns in daily life are the patterns using geometric shapes, plants, or animals. Using the background of the unique lifestyles of the Yao ethnic minority, this study applied hand knitting and jacquard techniques for a knit fashion design. In order to develop traditional patterns, Yao patterns were entered into an Illustrator and SDS-ONE APEX3-4 was used for simulation. Using wool fibers as the raw material; the knitting machine used a Bird's eye Jacquard technique-10GG. The results of this research and design work were as follows. First, the knitted clothing design using Yao clothing elements has significance for the development and flexible use of ethnic elements in contemporary creative design. Second, the straight cut design using hand-knitted and jacquard-knit fabrics can minimize waste materials and provide more possibilities for sustainable design development. Third, it provides additional methods for the combination of hand-knitting and jacquard knitting fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.3
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• pp.47-59
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• 2008

The recent trend of Sports Wear is seeking functionality and fashion at the same time, where the spread of sportism becomes caual style leading street fashion. Sports Wear is classified into active Sports Wear and Sports casual Wear, in which active Sports Wear is expanded to a mixture with Sports casual wear. The purpose of this study is to research the trend of materials used in active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear. Materials used for jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts of active Sports Wear and Sports casual wear, and high-tech functional materials used for active Sports Wear have been analyzed. The results of the study are the following: a) Most of the materials used for Sports Wear are polyester, nylon, cotton, and a mixture of cotton and polyester. Active Sports Wear uses functional materials and texture such as Dri-Fit, which absorbs and dries fast, whereas Sports casual wear satin, cire and denim has been used to keep up with the trend rather than focusing in functionality: b) companies such as Nike and Adidas have used many high-tech materials to emphasize the functionality of Sports Wear, while Puma stresses on fashion rather than function, however uses spandex in order for the consumer to feel comfortable during physical activities; c) active Sports Wear in jacket/jumper, pants and t-shirts uses functional material and texture, however Sports casual wear uses satin and cire to keep up with the fashion trend rather than functionality; d) and Nike uses high-tech funtional materials for its Sports Wear in therma-fit, Clima-fit, Dri-fit and storm-fit, whereas Adidas uses Clirna-lite, Clirna-proof, Clima-warm, and Clirna-cool in their active Sports Wear.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.422-428
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• 2018

In this study, we developed honeycomb pads using foam and polymer gel and verified the impact protection performance of pads for the development of a fall protection pants for elderly women aged 65 and over who have a high risk of fracture due to falls. The results are as follows; In the first experiment, the impact protection performance was evaluated for four honeycomb pad samples (CR foam, EPDM foam, hardness 15 polymer gel, and hardness 30 polymer gel) manufactured to a thickness of 5 mm using a single material. When the force of about 10757N was applied to the specimens, all four pads reduced the impact force to 3100N or less. Polymer gels showed better protection than foam materials. In the second experiment, the thickness of the protective pad was set to 8 mm in order to improve the shock absorbing performance of the protective pad. As a result of evaluating the impact protection performance of the foam single pad and foam gel composite pad, the impact absorbing performance of the foam single pad was better. Finally, four kinds of protection pads were made by assigning the foam single pad and the foam gel composite pad to pants type and underwear type respectively. The pad thickness of the main protection area was set to 8 mm to enhance the protection, and gradually decreased to 5mm and 3mm toward the edge to improve the appearance and fit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.5
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• pp.79-95
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is firstly to survey the social and cultural background of 20th century and women´s status, and to identify what the ideal body is like and what the elements of outer garment and underwear are and the techniques to incarnate the ideal beauty. Various papers are referenced for theoretical study and the elements and techniques of underwear are analyzed based on photographical materials. This paper concludes as follows. In 1960´s, ideal beauty was small bust, long legs, which showed extremely slim Mini-skirt look. Thinly or no padded brassiere were worn for small bust, and pants-style short panty girdles were popular as they used to wear pants frequently. Lycra replaced all the closures, bones, seams and gave freedom with light weight. In 1970´s, a natural human body without sex specific was in vogue. Therefore, the non-structural knits without a pad or lining or the shirts dress were widespread for a Natural look and the naturally molded brassiere or girdles were worn as the underwears. In 1980´s, the women with powerful muscle appear which emphasized liveliness and healthfulness. The body conscious represented by wide shoulder, plump breast, accented waist, small hips, and long legs has been embodied. Outer garments emphasized women power and healthy beauty with Power suit and Form-fitting style, and underwears made the breast plump with padded brassiere and emphasized waist and hips with waspie. In 1990´s, ideal beauty was slim body with big bust and the outer garments emphasized body line of women with Hourglass silhouette. Push-up bra which emphasizes the valley of breast and supports the breast upward and the control tights for slim waist, flat abdomen, small hips, and long and slim legs have been useful as underwears. Multi-functional micro-fiber has been ideal for sculpting women body.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.496-504
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• 2006

This study was conducted for silver generation women, age 60 and more. Questionnaire was answered by the total 291 of women. Frequency analysis, t-test, ANOVA and Duncon-Test have been completed by using SPSS 12.0 tool. The conclusion of the study is below. First, silver generation women live in Seoul and South Gyeongsang Province. The data shows huge academic background gab among regions. Second, the following is the preferences found by 15 stimulants which expert groups identified based on demography. People in South Gyeongsang Province like default, tailored, three-button jacket more. People in South Gyeongsang Province prefer to Chanel jackets and people in their 70s prefer to it than in 60s, stand collar casual jacket for color and material, and the less they are educated, the more they like the jackets. And those who have less personal expenses tend to prefer to it. South Gyeongsang Province shows preference for semi polo-neck sweater. Highly educated did not show any preference for it. Women in their 70s tend to like blouses with round neckline. The data shows there is significant difference of preference for design, color and material for coloration vest between education levels. The less educated tends to like it. People in South Gyeongsang Province and those who live with their children are in favor with half sleeve jackets for colors and materials. All in Seoul and South Gyeongsang Province do not like three-quarter-length sleeve jackets because those jacket have wide and deep plunging neckline. The study showed people living in Seoul, in their 60s, highly-educated tend to favor polo shirts significantly. Seoul favor basic straight pants and people with any level of education excluding elementary prefer to it. The highly-educated and those who have a bigger allowance tend not to prefer to baggy trousers. In conclusion, Fifteen incentives (clothing design) for semi polo-neck sweaters, polo t-shirts, basic straight pants are more proper to silver generation women in their 60s, living in Seoul. Other designs are desirably applicable to customers on a national scale at middle prices.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.6
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• pp.934-942
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• 2011

This study was intended to analyze conventional grading increments and methods for middle-age men's pants, and to suggest new grading guidelines that will enable to improve satisfaction with size and silhouette as a result of combining the concept of grading, which help maintain the ratio and proportion by sizes as one of ready-made apparel's advantages, with body form oriented and aesthetic approaches. In the apparel industry, the current sizing specifications and methods adopted by relevant companies, as well as the characteristics of body forms of men aged 35 to 55 years were comparatively analyzed to find out problems and ultimately to suggest their solutions or improvements. It was considered that as the conventional grading practices used in the industry were customary on the basis of the past experiences, it was required to take the body forms of target consumers into account and also, to reconsider the conventional grading methods. Analyses of sizing and specifications by brands show that 4 to 19 sizes including 82 or 84 as standard size have been produced. Since men's apparel has a large number of sizes with the large range of sizes, grading is critically important. As silhouettes depend on the distribution of grading rule values at each point of increment pattern in the main regions during grading, it is necessary to consider both size grading and form variations. To maintain an appropriate silhouette with keeping the angle of center back line of a pattern, it is desirable to set the ratio of side line part to center part from the crease line to approximately 3:7. It is required to diversify the values of grading rules according to different sizes and pattern regions in consideration for the body forms of key consumers. In addition, if the natural lines of designs and patterns for the width increments of waist circumference and hip circumference, the increments of hip width in pant's front and back panels, the ratio of grading rule values of the right and left sides of crease line, knee circumference, thigh circumference and so on are taken into account, grading will be satisfactory in the all aspects of size, silhouette and ratio.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.2 s.150
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• pp.306-315
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• 2006

Today, the uniform is perceived being important, because it transmits the unique company image through visualization of images, improves efficiency of work, and increases the feeling of belonging. Therefore, the purpose of this project was to make the winter uniform for the personnel in the manufacturing and the business departments of Korea Tobacco and Ginseng Corporation. The functional, aesthetic, and symbolic aspects were fully considered throughout the design process for the new uniform. To reflect the worker's opinions, the questionnaire method was used. The questionnaire was made up of the questions about the evaluation criteria and design preference for uniform. The result of the survey was reflected on the uniform design. The uniform consists of a jumper and a pair of pants. The jumper for manufacturing workers has two patched pockets with gussets. It has a convertible collar and a horizontal tuck on front panel. It has an open fastener on the front and a flap to cover the fastener. It has two types of pockets inside for functional reason. The welt one is for a wallet and the small one is for a pen. For the material, melanges with two tones of gray color was used, so it gave the sophisticated look on the uniform. The jumper for business workers also has a convertible collar and inside pockets. It has two slant slash pockets with welt. In addition, it has an attachable fur collar which gives thermal protection and aesthetic effect. The fabric has small check pattern and was made of wool. The pants are a basic trouser style with two pleats on the front.