• 복식
• /
• 제54권4호
• /
• pp.145-156
• /
• 2004

This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권4호
• /
• pp.43-59
• /
• 2010

In the first half of 20th century, there was an abrupt change in society and social values. Therefore, a demand for functional women's sportswear started to increase. This paper has attempted to investigate the impact of functionalism on women's sportswear in the first half of the 20th century. The following results were obtained: First, anti-tradition was observed. There was a tendency to be separated from the past and against tradition. It was tried to pursue freedom, getting away from corset and petticoat. Second, structural functions were targeted. In other words, precise and efficient shapes and simple silhouette and line were emphasized. Third, fitness of purpose was found. More liberal and comfortable design has been targeted. That's why a variety of functional pants have been designed instead of skirts. Fourth, utility and practicality were found. Elastic fabrics such as wool and jersey and sweater have commonly used in sportswear. A variety of new fabrics have been used and details such as flare, slit and pleats have been designed. Lastly, non-ornamentality was found. The beauty of simple shape was pursued by omitting details or eliminating unnecessary ornaments. Monochrome and dark color were preferred and a use of accessories has declined. The result of this paper could be used in establishing a theoretical framework on the impact on social change, values and art and helpful In modern women's sportswear design and marketing which have become more important.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제10권2호
• /
• pp.39-56
• /
• 2008

It is a remarkable phenomenon that tattoos has been rapidly spreading among women of modern years. The extremism of feminine ornaments, and pricking and piercing of the skin seem to have deep connection with women's consciousness changing to being independent, active and aggressive. The objective of this study is to analyze the potential quality of today's women, who appears emblematically through tattoo, and to search out the whole aspect and keynote of female tattoos. The methods of research are by examining the general characteristics including concept and history, considering the type and significance of ethnic female tattoos, and then comparing with the symbolism of today's female tattoos. The sphere is limited to women's tattoos from ancient times to today's modern lift, examined from large portions of Africa, Asia, Australasia, the Americas, and Arctic regions. As a result, the following had been reflected in female tattoos in the past. First, incantation, tribe, adult age, adornment, marital status, domestic ability and sex distinction, where among others, the incantatory, ornamental symbol, and domestic sign were representatives. Second, the most popular body parts for having a tattoo were around the lips, hands and abdominal region. Third, the more harsh the environment becomes such as tropical forests, isolated islands, and polar regions, the more number of females have tatoos. Fourth, women's tattoos were much less glamorous and smaller compared to those of men, distinguishing one's sex. On the other hand, today's female tattoos can be classified as five symbols: masculinity, independence, voluptuousness, affection, and purity. These symbols contain women's mentality to pass the limit, and to overcome social inferiority. In modern society, where women must compete with met it has become necessary for women to educe their potential masculine qualities. Being violent accessories for them, tattoos became a mark of such potential. Therefore, in the future, women's interest and demand for tattoos are expected to rise in proportion to the social demand of women's force.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.75-87
• /
• 2017

Sensitivity has become more important in relation to design in the changing social environment and atmosphere. In the West, the concept of aesthetics has long been established but in the East, only in the seventeenth and eighteenth century China did the discussion begin. In Korea, where the first scholarly discussion on aesthetics began around 1929, more and more rigorous and theoretical discussions are emerging now. Korean beauty consists of the beauty of no-artfulness and the beauty of natural artfulness. Japanese beauty consists of the beauty of half-articulation and the beauty of articulation. While both Korea and Japan base their sense of beauty on nature, Korea emphasizes nature as it is while Japan values artful decorative elements. Especially in modern Korean fashion, the characteristic Korean aesthetics of un-artfulness appears in various expressive techniques such as the movement with natural gathering, the use of natural materials like cotton, the harmonization of black and white, and a simplified silhouette. In Japanese fashion, one can see techniques such as: the beauty of half-articulation expressed through the ambiguity of shapes, colors, and genders or simplicity and paucity using straight lines, the beauty of articulation expressed with bright flower prints and ornaments, accessories of Obi and feathers and the transformed silhouette.

• 복식
• /
• 제64권5호
• /
• pp.1-17
• /
• 2014

This study explores women's Wonsam in the 18th century. Wonsam was women's wedding dress, one of the representative ceremonial garments of Korea. Wonsam began to appear in the excavated clothes around the 18th century, and we can find drawings and records of the period in Yongjae Collections by Kim-kunhaeng. The form of Wonsam after the 17th and 18th centuries showed the changes in which Seop and Mu disappeared in Baeja form of Danryoung(團領) and the right and left symmetry and side slits were highlighted. The change also included wide and long sleeves and Sakdong(색동) colorful strips on the sleeves), Hansam ornaments, and the use of the belt, which means the change of Baeja composition into our traditional costume of the age. Through the Colletions, we notice that women wore Wonsam in different colors and with varying hair accessories according to the nature of ceremony, the social status, and marital status. Concerning Wonsam, the color of clothing for the dead woman was green(喪禮), while that for marriage ceremony was red(婚禮). Wonsam with the light color was for ceremonial clothing(祭禮). The women who served in the palace wore green Wonsam and Geodumi, while a bride at the marriage ceremony wore red Wonsam or a red long-sleeved robe with Jokduri. At the ceremony of Hyeongunorye, women wore Wonsam with a wig. the dead woman wore Yemou.

• 대한가정학회지
• /
• 제24권1호
• /
• pp.17-26
• /
• 1986

War has been a reason for the culture of one conservative country to make contact with the culture of another country. The Crusade, among other wars, caused cultural exchange between the orient and the occident and had a great influence on the western costume. This paper has made an attempt to find out the influence of the Crusade with respect to the cultural exchange between the orient and the Occident and to study the influence which the Crusade has had on the western costume. The Crusade was the war in which the European Christians tried to retake the Holy Land, Jerusalem, from the Islamites through the 11th century to the 13th century. As a result of this war,the autyority of the Pope was weakned, the nobles were ruined and royal authority was consolidated. Due to the contact with the Orient, trade had become active, cityes had developed and the middle class of rich merchant had grown. Gothic architecture also appeared in the Occident at this time due to the religious influence of the Crusade. Turban type headdress and the brink decoration of clothes had been very popular under the influence of the Orient. Embroidery and applique had developed and silk fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more fabrics which had been imported from the Orient had made the costumes more gorgeous and luxurious. Many accessories were imported from the Orient. The Oriental culture contributed to the use of rich and bright colorsm, various ornaments and splendid textiles of the western costume. Owing to the influence of war itself, many costumes had been newly made in order to adapt to the hot desert climates of the Orient. Blazon decorations, uniforms and armour had also developed.

• Asia pacific journal of information systems
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.117-144
• /
• 2008

Lots of virtual communities and online businesses presently derive their primary sources of revenues through advertising, but nevertheless are plagued with marginal profitability though they might possess a significant user base. In the light of the need for an efficacious business model, there have been recent insights of an online community in particular reaping profits through an innovative and lucrative revenue generation method that earns by selling digital items. There have been some obvious evidences (e.g., Cyworld, SecondLife, Habo Hotel, etc.) that online communities can be profitable through their unique business model of selling digital items. However, there is lack of understanding about the motivation of purchasing digital items. This study tries to identify the main motivators of digital item purchases based on social/individual identity theory and self-presentation theory. "Digital items", otherwise known as "virtual assets", may include online avatars, accessories for the avatars, decorative ornaments like furniture, digital wallpapers, skins, background music and virtual weapons used for Internet games. These digital items are employed by users for representation and articulation in the online space, especially to create and enhance their online profiles in web pages and games. Prices for digital items typically range from a few cents to a few dollars each. Based on the theoretical framework like social identity theory and self-presentation theory, we developed the research model and proposed seven hypotheses. An analysis of 225 members of Cyworld found that digital item purchase intention in virtual world is affected by both members' need for self-presentation and need for affiliation. We also found that the need for self-presentation is significantly increased by innovativeness of members, community group norm, and community involvement. We concluded that the need for self-presentation could be a key variable for profitable business model in online community service industry. However, neither individual self-efficacy nor the need for affiliation significantly influenced the need for self-presentation which triggers purchase intention of digital items. In term of the theoretical and practical contribution, this study can be a pioneering empirical research that investigates the purchase intention of digital items based on social identity theory and self-presentation theory in the online context. Also, the findings of our study are valuable and practical for practitioners in the market who wish to adopt or improve the business model of selling digital items in an online community. From the findings, it can be seen that innovativeness of users, community group norm, and community involvement are three significant factors that influence need for self-presentation of users which ultimately leads to their intentions to buy digital items. These findings put forth that virtual community providers and online businesses selling digital items should prioritize their efforts and focus on these three factors if they want to increase the sales of these digital items and generate greater revenues. This study provides important implications for academic researchers and practitioners to understand why the community members pay money for their digital items in virtual world and how the practitioners can increase the sales of digital items in an online community. A couple of limitations of the study and future research directions are also discussed.

• 한국진공학회지
• /
• 제17권5호
• /
• pp.466-472
• /
• 2008

퍼플골드는 78wt%Au-22wt%Al로 이루어진 합금으로 화학식은 $AuAl_2$로 표현된다. 최근 화이트골드, 핑크골드와 더불어 특유의 적자색 (보라색)이 나는 유색골드의 하나로 장신구나 의장용 소재로 활용되고 있다. 퍼플골드는 Au와 Al의 중간상으로 연성과 주조성이 나쁜 특성이 있어 단조와 주조작업을 통하여 원하는 형상의 퍼플골드를 얻기 힘든 단점이 있다. 따라서 절단과 연마공정만으로 최종제품을 제작하거나 박막으로 증착하여 의장용 소재로 활용하는 것이 가능하다. 본 연구는 순수한 Au와 Al을 소오스로 각각 200nm$SiO_2$/Si기판에 78:22의 무게비로 증착시킨 후 열처리를 시행한 경우와, $AuAl_2$를 용융을 통하여 벌크형으로 얻은 후 이를 소오스로 사용하여 유리기판에 기판온도를 상온으로 유지하면서 진공증착을 통하여 표면처리를 한 경우로 나누어 실험을 진행하였다. 완성된 시편은 육안검사, 미세구조분석, 면저항분석, 색차분석, XRD 분석을 통하여 증착된 퍼플골드의 색과 두께를 위주로 한 물성을 측정하였다. 12.5nmAu/40nmAl/200nm$SiO_2$/Si 구조로 제작하고 열처리 한 경우 과도한 표면응집현상이 일어나면서 퍼플골드가 형성되지 않았다. $AuAl_2$ 소오스로부터 직접 열증착한 경우는 벌크상태와 동일한 적자색을 보였으며 퍼플골드의 의장용으로서 심미적 기능이 가능한 것으로 판단되었다.

• 박물관보존과학
• /
• 제30권
• /
• pp.89-100
• /
• 2023

박물관 소장품은 다양한 재질로 구성되어 있으며, 유형과 제작 물성에 따른 다양한 과학적 조사가 이루어지고 있으나, 초소형 유물에 대한 연구는 미진하다. 본 연구에서는 금령총에서 출토된 백색 초소형 물질의 재료학적 특성을 파악하기 위해 다양한 비파괴 조사(비중측정, 현미경조사, Nano CT, SEM-EDS, XRD, RAMAN)를 실시하였으며, 선행연구된 고려시대 복장품과 비교 검토하였다. 비파괴조사 결과, 탄산칼슘(CaCO₃)을 주성분으로 하는 아라고나이트(Aragonite)가 주구성광물로 확인되었으며, 진주의 성장선이 관찰되어 보석인 진주로 확인되었다. 본 연구를 통해 고대 한반도에서 진주의 출현시기를 6세기로 확인하였으며, 향후 백색의 초소형 물질에 대한 과학적 검토를 통해 당시 사회문화에 대한 정보를 획득할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 패션비즈니스
• /
• 제3권4호
• /
• pp.147-160
• /
• 1999

This paper is intended to compare and analyze the fashion trends that were introduced in the recent shows, held abroad and in Korea, so as to investigate how well the designers in Taegu and Kyungbuk (TK) area are keeping up with the international vogue. The research has done, analyzing Pret-a-Porter in Paris and the three events held in the TK area in 1997 -The Taegu Collection, Kyungbuk Fashion Festival and Textile & Apparel Fair and using reference pictures and documentary records. In order to investigate the trends the research is divided by four groups which are the silhouette, the detail, the color and the Fashion image and has done with the help of three postgraduate students. The results are as follows. 1. The Silhouette The slim-line has the greatest importance in the silhouette analysis of the recent collections. Like Elongated and Fit & Flare, tight-fitting and female-line were also appeared quite a lot. Compared with foreign collection, Korean collections put the bigger importance on the slim-line. 2. The Detail The printings, using paintings and plant-logos had the large portion of the accessories in both foreign and Korean collections. Draw string and wrap style were also presented a lot. Especially, at the Korean collections, layerd, corsage, and craft accent were emphasized, too. As for the necklines the similarity was found over the four events considering. Camisole neckline and halter neck were presented the most, and bared top, Vneckline, boat and low-neck which can highlight the feminity were often appeared as well. Considering collars, tailored and peaked collars which are frequently used for the jackets, were usually shown at the collections. Like convertable, shirts, wing and Italian collar, the collars that can be applied for the sports wears were presented a lot. Virtually no variation of design was found in the sleeve analysis. While set-in-sleeve and sleeveless were found commonly, not so many ornaments were added to the sleeves. The ankle and knee length for the pants and skirts were common. Furthermore, including the micro-mini, showing extremely feminine style the mini-style had the 20% portion of the skirt-length. Unbalanced lengths, using bias-cut were presented quite a lot on the runways. Deep slit skirts, wide pants and irregular hem skirts were in vogue. On the runways of Paris, more than 21% of the design was the burmuda pants. 3. The Color Red and Blue were in vogue in the four collections considering. Sometimes, yellowish was combined in Korean collections. Black and pale tone were appeared to be in fashion also with light grayish, moderate and deep tone. 4. The Fashion image As for the fashion image, feminine-decorative trend amounted to the large percentage in korean collections. At the foreign collection feminine-decorative trend and feminine trend were predominant, then mannish trend and simple trend were apeared equally. The research shows that TK area and foreign collections are fairy similar, which means that the designers in TK area have been making their efforts to satisfy the clients who have the international minds. However, compared with foreign collections, TK collections were apprered to be strongly inclined to only a few trends. Consequently the season trends are not as diverse as the foreign trends, which cannot satisfy the fashion taste of the clients in TK area. The local designers should know the tendency and the taste of the clients and make the more efforts to read local clients' mind.