• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.52 no.8
• /
• pp.123-135
• /
• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• English & American cultural studies
• /
• v.14 no.1
• /
• pp.27-51
• /
• 2014

Doris Lessing describes a band of revolutionaries who become involved in terrorist activities far beyond their level of competence in The Good Terrorist. Alice Mellings who is from a middle-class family has organized a squat house in London and seems capable of controlling everyone around her and anything about the house. She is seemingly like a housekeeper or a breadwinner. She also likes to be on the battlefront, for instance, demonstrating, picketing and spray-painting slogans. Such is able to easily exploit the others and she increasingly becomes the leader in the house. Recently some critics have focused on the political and social roles of the protagonist who represents a voice of terrorists in the 1980s England. Based on this, The Good Terrorist is read with the concept of the subject of feminism that Gillian Rose adopts in order to show that this subject tries to avoid the exclusion of the master subject. This subject imagines spaces which are not structured through masculinist claims to exhaustiveness. Alice as the subject of feminism shows different roles; she extorts or steals money for the maintenance of the house from her affluent parents; she spends all her time cleaning, fixing, decorating the deserted house; and she looks after the official affairs related to the house with her skills and experiences. She is systematically in charge of the house and sits at the head of the table in the kitchen. But when their activities turn into disaster and their plans fail, Alice willingly decides to close down the house after ousting the members. Here in her extorted gaze it is revealed that she takes control over the working class members of the house who are unable to lead a revolution because of their own problems and thereby the working class are dominated by the middle class. That is, the place is paradoxically recreated based on class differences, which the revolutionaries try to break. By representing the deconstruction and recreation of the place through squat houses, Lessing reveals her implicit feminism in which a new place should be produced crossing the principle of the dichotomy of gender and class.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
• /
• s.6
• /
• pp.7-22
• /
• 2002

Animation constitutes the core of the media industry, which in turn lies at the center of the cultural industry. It is considered one of the industries where South Korea has the competitive edge over other countries. With the pool of customers getting wider, the genre of animation has become more and more diverse, forming a great market for it. Aware of this trend, this study focused on animation as a part of the pop culture, and on providing corresponding various viewpoints for future cultural studies. This researcher measured the practicality and persuasiveness of this study through Shreck, a three-dimensional C.G. animation which is acclaimed for its success in dismantling the old grammar of animation movies that represent the anti-Disney ideas. This researcher felt it imperative to heed the unique language of Shreck, which contains discourses on various cultural ideologies such as paradoxical structure that pits entertainment that is shown through dismantling of the canon, feminism and antifeminism against each other. This study analyzed the entertaining element of the animation genre by means of the Semiotics of Keith Moxey, thereby attempting to establish a legitimate social status of the genre, whose artfulness has been depreciated in the art society. In chapter II, this researcher examines the chronological development of three-dimensional C.G. animation that has shown a rapid advancement. Chapter III defines the cultural ideology of Shreck by exploring basic theories and texts employed in analysis of art works. This study started with the assumption that defines, from the viewpoint of symbology, the animation text as an aggregate of discourses on entertainment, and competitive and paradoxical ideologies. Then, this researcher analyzed the text and the generation process of meanings in Shreck. Consequently, this study has come to the following conclusions: First, Shreck induces changes of concepts about the canon by means of distorting and reversing the existing animation movies, which seems to reflect in the contemporary tendency of seeking new interpretations of entertainment. Second, Shreck shows up the cognitive changes of our age as to feminism by competing feminism against antifeminism. Although Shreck serves as a venue of competition between the two opposing ideas, it stops short of brushing off women as outsiders in society. Rather, it represents the resistance to the male chauvinism existing in the structures of animation and culture. As shown in the text analysis, Shreck presents an advent of a new ideology critical of the previous animation films. In addition, it reflects in the struggle between the pro-feminism on the part of the viewers and the anti-feminism that lies in the social and culture structure. This study, however, is limited in its scope and selection of subject. First, although this researcher has stressed the importance of understanding the animation as part of the pop culture and conducting researches within the historic paradigm, this study fails to provide an in-depth insight in the impacts that the changes in the C.G. industry and the systematic conditions may have on the three-dimensional C.G. animation genre. Furthermore, this study runs the risk of being understood as pro-American due to its selection of Shreck as its research subject.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.471-484
• /
• 2018

This study selected fashion brands claiming to advocate feminism to analyze their characteristics and female images. For the study's data, online foreign feminist fashion brands were sifted from March 2017 to January 2018 and 28 clothing brands were selected. The study's results show that feminist fashion brands aim at the demassification and individualization of fashion products to be more inclusive of individuals' physical characteristics and diversity. Additionally, feminist brands entice consumption through communication and participation in online communities and through the value of social coexistence. The essential female image produced by feminist fashion brands deconstructs a socially idealized female image and expresses a sense of self-body positivity. In turn, the concept of self-body positivity is communicated through natural images of independent women with distinct identities based on differences in race, culture, and sexual orientation. Moreover, feminist fashion brands produce social images featuring independent women using active wear to engage in social activities. Casual wear is also used to reflect active women, while mannish looks and power suits express women's social status and professional abilities. Ultimately, these offer functionally active and rational images, combined with female images featuring long hair and makeup. Yet another type of female image seeks to create a new vision of women as diverse due to their various cultures, countries of origin, races, and individual tastes. These new images express women's physical differences, distinct identities, and diversity while simultaneously deconstructing pre-existing forms of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.51 no.2
• /
• pp.149-167
• /
• 2001

Today, every culture has taken on the compromise form by means of the cultural difference, variety, and pluralism according to the internationalization and the advance so that it has been developed toward the half-blooded and multilayered the aspect. In accordance with this current of the times, this thesis observed the feminism found in the multiculturism of the end of the 20th century, the third world, and technology with the side of the tendency of modern fashion, considered the hybride phenomenon which is pulling down the wall between culture and genre due to the social diversification. and predicted the fashion trend do 21st century serf on it. Multiculturism is the movement that began to arise in the academic world of America and the literary world form the close of 1980's in accepting the variety of culture and regarding the culture with the more balanced and wide view and just as it is, it means the attitude of accepting one or more cultures of variely and the position of taking interest in the culture of minority race not the culture of a governing race. It is the fashion of feminism adapts dualism like unisex, androgynous look, etc of bisexual lendency in the 1980's, it shows new style with crossover of liberal sense because there is not the difference of sex in fashion. The eco-feminism pursues the natural sexuality not being instrumental and dismantling and expressed it in the Gender expression of an integrated human being. The trend of ethnic fashion in the close of 20th century is that the element of hippie is working so strongly. By adding embroidery of Oriental style, accessories of Indian style, feathers, beads, a hempen hood to the ethnic costumes of Asia and Latin, is shows the figure of ethnic hippie. As the cycler fashion is the future clothes through technology of computer, it uses a cool glass material bringing up the image of a spacesuit in order to expresses cyber image through artificial color combination of sheen colors, Though this techno-color fashion has established the fresh stimulation and the innovative aspect with ultramodern materials and image of futurism, it transmits a hope of estranged people and the natural elements. Hybride means a cross and mixture of animal and plant in Korean and is also called fusion. The phenomenon of hybrid predicts to comes the period of a cross and variation because something completely new comes into the world by contamination, mixture and compromise through meeting something different each other and it has on advantage of developing something existing to one more stage. It is prospected that in the society of 21st century, the borderline of traditional gender will be disappeared, variety and individuality will determine the individual behavior, and the masculine value will be substituted by feminine value. In the society giving priority to feminine value, a fashion stuck closely to women is what must reflect lives of woman under the proposition of woman's beauty, being on original function. So, it is considered that a fashion with added convenience and practicality having the function which is easy to put on, comfortable to act, able to express solves so much, and able to show various appearances according to T.P.O will get into the spotlight.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.43
• /
• pp.203-224
• /
• 1999

As androgny presented by feminism still appear in contemporary fashion since mid 1980's feminism as a social phenomenon can be considered to habe influenced fashion history. This paper surveys the sex images of androgynous look that appeared in contemporary fashion into bisexual image and neutral images based on the feminist aspects of changes in contemporary fashion. As stated above bisexual images and neutral images of androgynous look shown in clothing are an attempt to reach one single integrated complete being by overacoming 'femininity' or 'masculinity' and combining the element of the two sexes. Consequently androgynous look creates new attraction by harmoniously coordinating characteristics of the two sexes instead of totally differentiating between masculinity and femininity that are represented in the form of clothing that has conceptual visual characteristics. Following are the conclusions of the reseach of this paper. First 'androgynous' as a feminist sex concept reflects the spirit of the times. Since the sex roles are divided and diversified and the concept of femininity is changing the concept of androgyny requiring both masculine and feminine characteristics in an essential sex concept for sucessful conduct of roles in a complex modern society. Second the integrated human image of androgynous look has led to a new culture with fashion trends that has been ahead of times by curing the functions of fashion to differentiate between men and women. Third androgynous look at the turn-of-the-centuy will not cease to exist but be a lasting fashion phenomenon while the sex concept presented by feminism has become the core to destrov the dichotomous fashion style of the 20th century. Fourth androgynous look is expressed in various manners in contemporary fashion since it shown how human beings accipt the adaptation method desperately required by the contemporary times. Androgynous look can be viewd as the desire for ultimate freedom that can be acquired by destroying the dichotomous sex concept and as the will to become a subject of the world as integrated human being. As we look into fashion culture creation of fashion is not the result of an accidental cause or an individual's work but the reflection of the spirit of the times. In this sense androgynous look introduced by a new sex concept to contemporary fashion has reflected the spirit of the times and led the cultural atmosphere and moreover it is an important fashion style that can characterize the contemporary times while lasting in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.61 no.8
• /
• pp.100-113
• /
• 2011

The earlier notion of feminism regarding gender equality was changed into that of Postfeminism because of gender differences. The idea of Postfeminism has been present since the 1980s but has been influenced by modern culture theories such as Postmodernism, Poststructuralism, Theory of Power and Discourse and Psychoanalysis. Various features of Postfeminism are found in the medieval warrior images of contemporary fashion. Warrior costumes were men's exclusive property in the medieval ages, but as it is introduced as women's wear in the 21st century, it shows us new fashion images which are constructed by gender deconstruction, differences and pastiche. In this regard, the purpose of this study is to examine a key characteristic of Postfeminism fashion. An article described the historical costumes of medieval warriors and refocused on the development processes of feminism and then conducted an analysis on formative characteristics and Postfeminism tendencies in contemporary women's wear from 2000 to 2011. The results were that materials such as metallic and flexible materials, monotonic and red colors and detailed patterns of armor were used to display forms of exaggeration and restraint. These elements fully and correctly expressed the image of a medieval warrior woman in contemporary fashion. Postfeminism fashion is constructed with feminine power, gendered identity, sensual elegance and a postmodern body. Postfeminism is the contemporary cultural icon and is continuously influencing modern fashion design in the 21st century in a positive and powerful way.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.9 no.6
• /
• pp.613-625
• /
• 2007

Globalizing the Japanese fashion successfully, Hanae Mori's work awoke the western fashion world's nostalgia towards the East. Analyzing the aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes what kinds of aesthetic characteristic that her work had and what kinds of influences that she made in the modern fashion would provide substantial contribution of the world's modern fashion. This study provided forms and remarkable features of Japanese traditional custom, revealed Hanae Mori's life and her philosophies of fashion, and defined Hanae Mori's aesthetic characteristics by analyzing her work from 1970's until the retirement, July 2004. Methods of this study are completed by documentary records of Hanae Mori, research papers and fashion magazines that are published domestically and internationally, and collected materials from internet. The results of analysis are epitomized as below. Hanae Mori was the first Japanese fashion designer who expressed the characteristics of traditional Japanese custom with modernity sprit. In the 60's and 70's, especially in the U.S. and European fashion market, she inspired western fashion designers by her original sprit of art: combining Japanese tradition which showed distinctive color and spirit of nature and the western beauty. Hanae Mori created new dress molding from the Kimono's unstructured feature. Her layered look dressing, oblique adjustment and Obi, and others all enabled Mori to express Japanese image into modern fashion. Additionally, in terms of traditional Japanese image being acknowledged world-widely, she played a major contribution in world fashion by suggesting a new vision and raised several sensations in fashion artistry and modeling. Amongst her various patterns, Hanae Mori had butterfly patterns in most of her works, which was her representative symbol. This spoke for her strong will and senses of duty that wanting to inform beauty of Japanese women who were reflected in modern and graceful butterfly patterns. Flowers were another element that symbolized Mori. Using various flower motifs that bloomed in every different four seasons, she connected two images into her fashion; beauty of the nature and enlightening image of vibrating life. The aesthetic characteristics of Hanae Mori's clothes were defined as five: Japonism, naturalism, feminism, eroticism, and modernism. Japonism which is the spirit of Japanese, Mori used the concept to connect the East and the West. Naturalism represented harmony of the nature and the human. Feminism highlighted Eastern women's beauty. Eroticism emitted feminine attraction. Modernism represented simplicity and sophistication. Such aesthetic character illustrated Mori's original emotion that was based on Japanese spirit and she combined it with values of the East and the West. From the analysis of Mori's aesthetic characteristics, it is clearly recognizable her feministic beauty is emanated by her original emotion and sensibility.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.1
• /
• pp.171-184
• /
• 2011

This paper is purposed to clarify that an increase of the matter of concern about men's fashion in the mid-1980s was coincided with rapid change of images for men and diversification within the context of economy, society, culture and to analyze the characteristic of each fashion and the meaning. Findings are as follows: 'New men' played a key role creating and communicating the new male image through the media, as a new masculine appeared in the middle of 1980s. Especially it was spreaded into with British as a center between the generations of young men described as a white-collar worker about the ages from 18 to 35 specifically and appeared by the cultural background in accordance with the spread of consumerism, materialism and post modern feminism and the development of men's fashion. There were 2 types of fashion styles for 'New men' image on the media in the mid-1980s. The First is 'power suit look style' which is self-conscious, including 'corporate formal suit look' and 'soft & sexy suit look'. The Second is 'extravagant body conscious style' which characterize the decolletage and androgynous, including 'tough sports look' and 'sexy skirt look'. Lastly, the 'New men' image means a man as a visible object and a man in the image world.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.9 no.5
• /
• pp.783-797
• /
• 2001

This study examines the cultural meanings of underclothes advertisements through the analysis of advertisement messages appeared in women's magazines of Korea which are , and published between 1965 and 1999 mainly targeting the women at the age of 20s through 40s. The method of study is mainly qualitative with subsidiary citations from the results of content analysis. The advertisement messages identified in underclothes advertisements are 1) body care, 2) gender role, 3) commercialization of eroticism, 4) feminism, 5) men's social status and masculinity, 6) social issues of concern and ideologies of the time. Advertisements produce a new meaning through a dynamic mixture of the advertisement's visual and verbal factors. Such a new meaning then can become a part of culture and therefore we can obtain insights of a society culture by analyzing the advertisement messages of underclothes advertisements. Advertisements bring definite changes to the culture through long-term and implicit influences on the constituents of the culture.