• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.6
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• pp.702-708
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the dyeing-property and antibacterial activity on nylon fabric dyed with cochineal at variable dyeing conditions. Al, Cr, Fe, Cu and Sn were used as mordants and adsorption was compared with different mordanting methods. The maximum UV-visible absorption band of cochineal extract was 495 nm. The dyeability on nylon fabric was good because of having a amine group. The optimum dyeing conditions of nylon fabrics are dyeing concentration 1.5%(o.w.s), dyeing temperature $60^{\circ}C$, pH 3 and dyeing time 30 minutes. The pre-mordanting method is preferred for Al and Cr, and the post-mordanting one is preferred for Cu, Sn and Fe to achieve better dyeing. The optimum mordanting conditions of wool fabrics dyed with cochineal are mordanting concentration of 0.5%(o.w.s), mordanting temperature $60^{\circ}C$, and dyeing time 30 minutes. Nylon fabrics dyed with cochineal show a little antibacterial activity, but it was increased by Sn mordanting. MIC test results in antibacterial activities revealed that the antibacterial activity of Cu was the highest among mordants, but Sn mordant was the most effective in antibacterial activities after mordanting treatment of nylon fabric. The fastness properties of dyed nylon fabric showd a little worse or a similar level and there was no significant difference between a mordanted and non-mordanted fabric.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.11-19
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• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of dyeing by natural dyes, the mordanting and dyeing properties of cochineal and carminic acid were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of cochineal were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of cochineal solution was 495nm, carminic acid was 533nm and 577nm. The color of carminic acid solution was affected by pH 6~9. The optimum temperature to extract cochineal was $80-100^\circ{C}$ and dyeing solution for 1 hour. And effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was $80^\circ{C}$, and its time was 30min. In case mordants concentration, the maximum absorbance of Sn solution was 3%, K, Cu and Cr were in 1%. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordant treatment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. In the case of cochineal light fastness was increased by mordant treatment, specially Fe treatment. Perspiration fastness was good in acidic solution than in alkaline solution and perspiration fastness of cochineal was poor. Fastness of abrasion and dry-cleaning were good and these fastness improvement were generally effective for post-mordanting treatment.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.567-574
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• 1993

Mordant Red 19(MR19) is reduced at mercury electrode at -0.67 V vs. Ag/AgCl with two electrons per molecule in pH 9.2 buffer by differential pulse polarography and linear sweep voltammetry. The peak potential is dependent on the pH of solution. The exhaustive electrolysis, however, gives 4 electrons per molecule because of the disproportionation of the unstable hydrazo intermediate. The electrochemical reduction of lanthanide-MR19 complexes is observed at more cathodic potential than that of free ligand. The difference in peak potentials between complex and free ligand varies from 75 mV for $La^{3+}$ to 165 mV for $Tb^{3+}$ and increases with increasing the atomic number of lanthanide. The electrochemical reduction of lanthanide complexes with MR19 is due to the reduction of ligand itself, and it can be potentially useful as an indirect method for the determination of lanthanides. The shape of i-E curves and the scan rate dependence indicates the presence of adsorption and the adsorption was confirmed by potential double-step chronocoulometry and the effect of standing time. Also the surface excess of the adsorbed species and diffusion coefficients are determined. The composition of the complex is determined to be 1 : 2 by spectrophotometric and electrochemical methods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.63-71
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• 2022

This paper aims to compare and verify the antibacterial effects of cotton fabrics naturally dyed with extracts of Ulmus davidiana var. japonica Nakai, Caesalpinia sappan, Saururus chinensis, and Artemisia princeps against antibiotic-resistant strains of bacteria. After natural dyeing of the test fabric, Al, Cu, Fe mordants were used. The color fastness against washing, rubbing, and perspiration of the cotton fabrics dyed with the 4 types of extracts were mostly excellent. However, the color fastness against light showed poor results for all four types. As for the antibacterial test method, MRSA (ATCC 33591) was applied to the cotton fabrics dyed with the four kinds of extracts and cultured for 24 hours. After that, the bacteria that proliferated on the fabrics were collected and spread on a solid medium. The bacteria were measured to find out the bacteriostatic reduction rate for the antibiotic-resistant strains. As a result of the analysis, all four extracts showed a high bacteriostatic reduction rate of more than 99% when the copper mordant was used. Even with the lack of a mordant, the bacteriostatic reduction rate was high, at 99.9% for Caesalpinia sappan and 94.6% for Saururus chinensis.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.171-179
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• 2017

This study was to investigate the practicality and functionality of water lily(Nymphaea tetragona) leaves as a natural dye resource while searching for various dyeing methods to utilize them. Effect of dyeing condition including methanol ratio of dyebath, dyeing temperature and time, mordanting method, etc were investigated. Colorants were prepared by extraction in methanol and followed drying process. When composing 30% of methanol in the dyebath, better dyeuptake and uniform dyeing were resulted. Pre-mordanting method gave better results in terms of dye uptake than post-mordanting method on the wool fabrics. Fe and Ti were effective for increasing the dye uptake on the silk fabrics. Depending on mordant type and mordanting method, the dyed fabrics got various color showing green, khaki, brownish yellow, dark brown, dark gray and so on. As for color fastness, the silk fabrics dyed with water lily extract showed relatively high rating in light fastness(3~4, 4~5 rating), washing fastness(4~5, 5 rating), and rubbing fastness(4, 4~5 rating). The silk and wool fabrics dyed with water lily leaves extract showed excellent antimicrobial activity over 98% of bacterial reduction rate against Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae. It was confirmed that water lily leaves can be used as a natural dye resource for dyeing wool and silk fabrics because its colorants showed excellent affinity and antimicrobial functionality as well as good colorfastness.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.33-46
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability of silk on extract of Artemisia princeps, The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method. comonent of fabric, kind of mordant. The experimental study was done by laundering fastness, abrasion(dry/wet) fastness, perspiration(acid/alkali) fastness, light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summarized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows; First, in the C. C. M test on mordanting methods, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference, color was most yellow-greenish, Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabrics, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It is considered that silk has -$NH_2$ , -COOH, -OH than more than cotton. Third, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed that color-change was 2~3 grade, the contamination on attached fabric was 4~5 grade. perspiration fastness(acid/alkali) showed 4~5 grade nearly and those of acid was higher than alkali. abrasion fastness(dry/wet) was 4~5 grade and in Fe(3~4 grade) was lower than the other mordants. Forth, in color difference analysis on mordants, Fe(50.0) showed the highest and the order of color difference was alum(16.0), Cu(7.2), Sn(3.5), Al(3.1), Cr(2.3), The Hue was turned into yellow-greenish in alum mordant treatment, the luminocity of color was most dark in Fe(-48.9) and Cu(-7.2), chroma was the highest in alum (15.7) method.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.323-330
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• 2018

This study aim is to provide new coloration method by laccase-catalyzation on natural phenolic dyeing process. In this study, silk was dyed with black tea, which is one of polyphenolic dye, extracted in distilled water. The dyed samples were catalyzed by laccase as the eco-friendly mordanting process. To optimize the conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration, conditions were varied by different mordanting methods (one-bath, two-bath), temperature and treatment time. The dye affinity in terms of the value of K/S, $L^*$, $a^*$, $b^*$, and H, V, C was measured by Computer Color Matching System (CCM, CM-2600d, Spectra Magic NX, Korea). The effect of laccase-catalyzed coloration on washing fastness was evaluated and compared with the synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). As the result of color analysis of dyed silk, the optimum conditions of laccase-catalyzed coloration were determined to post-mordanting by one-bath at $50^{\circ}C$ for 3 hours. Under the optimum laccase-catalyzed conditions, the dyed silk was shown the color of yellowish-red. After laccase-catalyzed coloration on the dyed silk, the improvement of washing fastness was obtained compared with mordanted silk by synthetic mordant (Al, Cu, and Fe). Therefore, the present study was demonstrated that the effective enzymatic mordanting method by laccase for phenolic natural dyeing with vivid color and good fastness.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.27
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• pp.13-19
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• 2009

The purpose of this study was the efficient use of the black rice bran for dyeing textiles. For this purpose, we investigated proper extracting conditions of black rice bran, dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. To find proper extracting condition of black rice bran, we extracted black rice bran with water at different temperatures($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), different extracting pH(pH3, pH4, pH5, pH6) and extracting time(20, 40, 60, 80, 100, 120, 140, 160, 180min.). Also we investigated the effect of dyeing time(1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6hr.), dyeing temperature($40^{\circ}C$, $60^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$) and mordanting method(non, pre, sim, post) to examine dyeability and dyeing fastness of dyed silk fabrics. As a result, when the extracting temperature and time were $80^{\circ}C$, 3hr., respectively, extracting was best. And the higher the extracting concentration, the more the extracting amount. As the dyeing temperature and time were higher and longer, the dyeability of silk fabrics was better. With mordant, the dyeability was improved and when using premordant method better, the K/S value was maximized. The laundering fastness of the silk fabrics dyed with black rice bran was estimated to have a good grade of 3~4, however, the light fastness was poor to have a grade of 1~2.