• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.183-190
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• 2016

A mourning dress is the formal costume that the mourners wear to show civility during the mourning. Traditional funeral rites are the Confucianism's funeral proceeding where the mourners wear according to the National Mourning Dresses System. However, nowadays, the funeral proceedings and mourning dresses are simplified. In result of current design analysis of the mourning dresses for women, the types of the mourning dresses for women are classified by traditional styles and modern styles. Traditional styles include skits and Jeogori make of hemp fabrics, and modern styles include skits and Joegori style, modernized Hanbok style, and Western style, which consist of cardigan, waist skits, jackets, and pants. The modern styles mostly use polyester and the color consists mainly of black and white. The followings propose new designs of mourning dress for women that reflect practicality, flexibility, and diversity. First, transmit the meaning that traditional mourning dress entails Second, change the length and the width of Jeogori and skirt by reflecting the trend of the time and change the designs of the mourning dresses by using the details of the modern styles so that they are equipped with practicality, flexibility, and affordability. Third, pursue diversity by changing the uniformed fabrics and colors used on the existing mourning dresses. This study addresses the drawbacks and the points that need be improved to suggest the designs of the modern mourning dress for women, which reflect the characteristics of Hanbok and cultural traits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.2
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• pp.145-150
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• 2007

Recently, active movements are occurring to reestablish our own traditional Korean images in all levels of society. One of them is about Ordinary Hanbok. Academics and business sectors are endeavoring to develop comfortable and Korean traditional Hanbok designs and popularize them as well. Based on the facts, the study focuses on developing Ordinary Hanbok designs for women by applying Korean traditional patchwork in order to present handmade, humane senses. First of all, the backgrounds, history and preference of Ordinary Hanbok are discussed through literatures and precedent studies as study methodology. Then, the study is analyzing the formative beauty of Korean traditional patchwork that contains emotions of women in the Chosun Dynasty. After that, it shows Ordinary Hanbok designs developed for women by using checks, free style, and yeoiju patterns of the fabrics dyed with clay and Chinese ink that recently attract people in particular. The results are like followings; First, the limits that excessive transformation of Hanbok may cause the lack of traditional beauty can be covered through using a variety of images of Korean traditional patchwork. Second, diverse face configuration of patchworks has very unique geometric forms so to be easily applied to modern Ordinary Hanbok designs. Third, the sewing technique of patchworks also plays a role as a design factor as important as face configuration. Fourth, utilizing fabric pieces may result in various unplanned face configuration and help resource recycling. Fifth, it is possible to coordinate Hanbok with other ordinary clothes that people normally wear on. Sixth, using patchworks images can encourage developing more active and refined designs added with traditional beauty. Seventh, natural dying and fabrics are eco-friendly, which is good for human health and environment. Finally, more studies should be done on design development based on precedent studies about Ordinary Hanbok. Also, it is important to foster social atmosphere and circumstances where people accept wearing Ordinary Hanbok as our natural culture.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.272-288
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women's Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.348-365
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to develop Korean clothing designs that can satisfy future consumer's needs based on the elements extracted through the content analysis method in a study on the design elements expressed in traditional outfits in the 2010s. To this end, data analyzing Hanbok in wedding magazines were used, and after extracting design elements, research methods for empirical design development were used. After subclassifying the major design elements, factors with a steady increase in frequency and appearance rate were identified. Through this, five elements capable of aesthetic sampling were extracted by complex expression methods and expressed in a total of seven combinations. The types extracted from the design elements are items, silhouette, top shape, skirt shape, skirt length, mixed items with increasing frequency. In the element of color, the adjacent color harmony, which showed the highest frequency of color, and the white-blue harmony, which showed an increase among them, were extracted. When using materials, top and skirt have similar usage rates of the same and different materials, so both contents were extracted, and many patterns were arranged in the top and the whole, but these three were extracted because there were increasing cases where there were no patterns. In the case of decoration, embroidery, pintuck, sakdong, applique, lace, ribbon on the top, silver foil and print on the skirt were extracted. Through this study, it was possible to propose a future Korean costume design model.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.886-896
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• 2009

Acjurumpo is one of the most representatives daily outfit of Joseon Dynasty is a clothes which has a characteristic of having creases under the armhole and it has a lot of chance to use on modern clothes design. This study wants to provide a information on traditional clothes to the public and modernize traditional clothes by designing modern women clothes by adapting Acjurumpo, one of Joseon Dynasty's men' daily outfit which is not very well-known to publics as a link of traditional clothes modernization. Acjurumpo's characteristic is usually having a knife-shape collar and having two sup and one sup, but outside sup of having two sup was more common. There were tongsu, duri, as a example of shape of sleeve. For Mu the combinations were different from Acjurum starting with a shape of trapezoid, triangle to big Mu on a body of side line. For Gorum there were two pairs of long and short Gorum, two pairs of short Gorum or one pair of short or long Gorum. Slit of po was on both side or back. Acjurumpo which was adapted on modern clothes, it was usually used on Hanbok companies that used traditional shape or similar shape to design children' clothes. This study designed three summer one-piece and two winter jacket for women clothes adapting Acjurumpo. And it was designed by using modern material adapting Acjurumpo's characteristics, changing knife-shape collar, Acjurum, mu and Gorum. This study expects for popularization of many traditional clothes developed by modern design in future.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.137-149
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to identify the perception of New-Hanbok Skirts that female consumers have and to analyze the design preference based on the analysis of designs of skirt products currently in distribution. Based on the analysis of the New-Hanbok brand website, the research was conducted through a survey of 355 women in their 20s and older. The survey consisted of 24 questions which were divided into pattern, color, material, and recognition type questions. The research results are as follows. First, most adult women answered that a New-Hanbok skirt is appropriate to wear at a holiday, anniversary, or outer dress for the spring and autumn seasons, and the design is the most important thing when considering buying. However, the ratios of wearing experience and possession were very low. Second, the preferred design aspects of a New-Hanbok skirt were the Jarak-skirt or Deot-skirt, calf-length, 5cm width of the waistband, 3cm uniform crease, a normal length waistband, bright neutral colors, and a waistband in different colors. For the double skirt, the design that shows 4cm of lining fabric and the different colors of upper fabric was the most preferred. The most preferred material was plain cotton. On the other hand, small floral patterns were preferred for patterned materials, and opaque upper fabric was most preferred for the double skirt. Through this study, it was confirmed that the Hanbok is seen as a positive aspect for modern consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.11-21
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• 2004

This study examined the kinds, shape, technique, and arrangement of pattern for the Korean traditional women costume between 1995 and 2002. The sources used this study were collected from the magazine “HANBOK, ONGOJISHIN, BEAUTIFUL OUR DRESS” Results were as follows 1) In the kinds of pattern, the most pattern of use was the flower pattern, and the geometric pattern showed the trend of increase. these results mean the use of pattern lately is progressed by the new direction. 2) In the shape of pattern, the style shapes were decreased gradually and the geometric shapes were increased. these results show that the modern beauty is chased. 3) In the technique of pattern. the results viewed that the embroidery technique used in the meantime decreased and the JOGAKBO technique increased. 4) In the arrangement of pattern, the modern arrangement was most superior in the most of year. That is estimated the arrangement of pattern have been chased the modern beauty than the others of pattern.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.1111-1125
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to research the characteristics of the pattern design and the weave construction of 67 fashion fabrics in women's Hanbok. All the fabrics were made by 100% silk. Arrangement, size, and the type of patterns were investigated for research of the pattern characteristics. Pattern weave and background weave were analyzed, then the weight and the thickness were measured for studying the fabric construction. The results were as follows. First, irregular arrangement was more commonly used than regular arrangement, and then the complex arrangement and the combination arrangement were appeared considerably because of the existence of the various patterns in a fabric. Third, the types of pattern weave construction were much more than those of background weave construction. This is caused by the expression of dimensional effect for patterns. This survey can be practically used for development of pattern design for Hanbok industry and furthermore it will contribute to revitalizing of Hanbok market to overcome design limit in the future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.228-247
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• 2023

In this study, an empirical analysis was conducted on the use of Korean design elements in the Hanbokwave project in 2022 in order to identify the expressed fashion characteristics and define Korean style. A case study was conducted on 98 items of clothing representing 10 Hanbok designer brands, and an analysis card was developed and used that classifies the silhouette of each item in detail. The analysis showed that in addition to the traditional skirt and Jeogori, the four stages of simulakr's image were prevalent in various fashion items such as shirts, blouses, jackets, crop tops, vests, dresses, and pants. In the composition of sleeves, many western clothing methods such as set-in-sleeve use and adjustment, hardcover buttons, and zippers were used to fuse the three-dimensional structure of western clothing and elements of traditional Hanbok to redefine it as postmodernism. It was recognized as a modern fashion, such as the trend of mixing and matching tops and bottoms, not a skirt and Jeogori set, by layering traditional clothes without hesitation or using them as a dress. As for the silhouette of the bottoms, the A-line showed a high frequency, and the prominent shape was identified as a traditional element widely used in modern Hanboks along with the element of wrinkles. This study is thought to be used as practical data for design development for the globalization of K-fashion in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1418-1430
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• 2007

To strength global competitivenss and raise reputation in times of globalization, the practical use and development of traditional culture which must be discriminated against other countries wedging their ways. The purpose of this study is, 1. Make the mutual relationship between globalization of Korean traditional clothing(Hanbok) and the strean of the international fashion clear. 2. Deduce a common primary fact through commonness of international great products and a success of globalization in Asian nations 3. Suggest a scheme for globalization of Korean traditional clothing from the flank of a design and a policy on the basis of analysis. The consequence of this study is, 1. In the situation that modern international fashion focused Re-Orienting Fashion, Korean traditional clothing-Hanbok is considered as the most priceless value of application for an effective design sauce to differentiate.2. The common point between International leading fashion brands and success of globalization of each Asian nation is to pursuit an effective marketing strategy through a proper harmony with a differentiated 'uniqueness' which is motivated from their tradition, a sense of modern trend reading, and a 'generality' which fits in their lige styles. In consequence, we must develop typical design factors to be connected directly with Korean traditional image from the flank of design, For this, the typical design factors need to be applied with grafting tradition and modern ideas, simplicity, convenience, fleshly senses, and youth.