• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.137-147
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• 2019

The purpose of this study, I investigate the new trend, 'new-tro', through the music video costumes of young generations, and analyze the meaning and characteristics of 'new-tro'. The research method is, select 30 music video with new-tro fashion style on the music sites, and the fashion styles were analyzed in 11 music videos checked and selected by 100 students. As a definition of the term, 'retro' refers to a phenomenon in which the past reappears in modern time, and 'new-tro' is a new retro trend, a social phenomenon that enjoys the old with a modern sense, and is a compound word of 'new' and 'retro'. 'new-tro' is a modern reinterpretation and rebirth of the past style, and 'fu-tro' is a style of coexistence between the past and the future. In the music video, fashion is a media language and cultural code, and it creates trend or new fashion, that communicates with the public, stimulating emotions. As a result of the research, the common trend phenomenon expressed in the music video costume of 'new-tro' trend which appeared in 2000s is as follows. 1. New-tro style starts with items that were famous in the past. 2. It is one of postmodern marketing using color, print and logo. 3. It spreads quickly by the influence of culture that is characteristic of the Internet and SNS world. 4. It is bottom up propagation phenomenon of street fashion. 5. It is a time game where modern people connect the past with the present. 6. "new-tro" continues to evolve for that time, based on 'retro'. New-tro, an evolutionary version of the 21st century retro wave. and it is a key to marketing effectiveness as a sympathetic elements of 1020 generations with the reproduction of memories.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.13-23
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• 1986

We investigate several theories on how the cravate came into being and eventually evoved into the modern day necktie. Among the different possibilities, the most plausible case is the introduction of the neckwear by croatioan soldiers into France near the beginning of the seventeenth century. During seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the beautiful costumes and extravagant embroideries using the expensive laces, were common oractices among the high society of the royal court, and the cravate evolved into a favorite ornament. While it was emerging as a beautiful part of man's dress in France and the continent, Charles II brought the cravate to England where it became the central part of the dandy's dress. The cravate became not only a part of dress but a subject for a solemn ceremony. George brummell was the most famous English dandy associated with this ritual and he is also credited as the father of modern men's dress. In england, Brummell became famous for his clean cravate was used as the expressionis of political opinions. They were san cravate, muscadins and incroyables, for example. The classic style of male dress in the nineteenth century was due to Brummell and the severe unadorned silhouette he started has changed very little to became the present day male dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.51-68
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• 2000

This study is intended to examine the common features of costume images in science-fiction (SF) movies that deal with current socio-cultural situations by examining their themes and tones about the future it can be generally concluded that costume images of SF movies are divided into two patterns : one inheriting traditional styles constructed on linear progress and the other based on dismantiling the tradition. this analysis is made through the research of actual cinematic contexts on the common features of multiple styles shaping the two patterns of costume images. The results can be summarized as the following: The former is related with the future built up on the basis of belief in reasonal progress rooted in the Enlightenment reasonable plan for ideal social order and strong faith in uniformity. So It shows functional uniformity disregarding wasteful competitiveness in consumption and luxuriousness and clothing that has the aesthetic value of purity without emphasizing human body or sensuality are presented. On the other hand SF movies which show the uncertain costume image as the meaning of dismantling of tradition take up a rather critical view of assumption that society can move toward utopian future as it searches future images in the notion of hetero-topia by emphasizing pluralism consequently as for clothing diversity and uncertainty in post-modern style are presented destroying modernistic dichotomy and the assumption of Utopian clothing made in the notion of modern progressivism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.1-13
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• 2002

The object of this research is to know the characteristics of design for stage costume design through experiencing production of costume design of Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and to know the effect of stage costume at real performance. Background of times and characteristics were reviewed by analyzing opera. And reference regarding Mascani's opera "Cavalleria Rusticana" and script, and image data analysis and interview with director were also done. Ethnic costume in Sicily in southern Italy was reviewed at conception step. and design was embodied by analyzing character of each person based on this analysis. Form of character. motion and vocalization were considered at actual production step, and stage effect was analysed by considering lighting, stage background, and combination of color on costume between characters through real performance. The above conclusion could present professional and systematic methodology in designing opera and other stage costumes. And this research can also be a contribution in these days when interest for theatrical art. along with importance of stage costume, plays a key role in modern art. role in modern art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.6 s.53
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• pp.918-932
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• 2004

Fashion is a product of form expressing the socio-cultural mood and aesthetic value of an age. Owing to development of the mass media and diversification of arts under the influence of post-modernism in the 20th century, fashion has been more briskly expressed to be presented to the people. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the fashion photography as visual medium. To this end, visual narrative techniques were analyzed and thereupon, Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography was examined. This study reviews such visual narrative techniques by dividing into visual and non-visual elements and thereby, examines the three-fold aspects of fashion photography expressions : Representative Level, Ground Level and Context Level. Also this study focuses on Philip-Lorca diCorcia's fashion photography in 'W magazine' which features portfolio form. This study analyzed the visual narratives shown in fashion photography and thereby, expand in diverse ways the fixed images of the conventional fashion photography commercials featuring beautiful models and exquisite costumes, and additionally, determined that fashion photography must be a kind of expression tool which could express not only the simple fashion but also the socio-psychological elements inherent in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.45
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• pp.55-70
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to offer a new inspiration for fashion design relating the "Romanticism" in art to one in fasion-examining the circumstance expressionad the latest trend which is involved with it. Since. 1990. Romanticism is motivated and represented in the middle of aridity in this age which is going on the end (of age). To say the details Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is represented modernly in the compound of social grounds cultures and new techniques. Romanticism in fashion is classified in four categories : Retro Avantgarde, Minimal and Ethnic. First Retro mood in Romanticism is represented by reappearing the costumes in medieval Renaissance Baroque Rococo, Romantic era Specially corsets crinolines bustle decorative ribbons frills and Medieval symbols in religion are important factors in intuitional symbolic Romanticism. Second Avantgrde mood in Romanticism is mainly represented in the oriental patterns colors items being motivated by Eastern customs images and cultures. Today they appear in modern concept reinterpreting 'fusion" "hybrid" and "cross-over". Romanticism in fashion is creating new forms and beauties absorbing the past and the present. In addition it is motivated by the nostalgic mood. the expectation for the future and the refineent. Romanticism would be an important fashion theme to offer new inspirations for the fashion in 21th century rather than remain at the reappearance.er than remain at the reappearance.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-17
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• 2008

This research analyzes the patterns in modernization of costume that reflects the attitude of accepting the Western culture and the differences in perception, during modernization period (1850-early 1910) in Japan. The Japanese attitude toward the Western costume can be roughly classified into three periods: impetuous acceptance in the early Restoration of Imperial Regime(1867-1883), aggressive acceptance in Rokumeikan period(1883-1887), and the coexistence of traditional and modern costumes after Meiji 20(1887-1910). A Western costume symbolizes wealth and power until Rokumeikan period, however, as it becomes more common, it is considered as an ordinary dress rather than a ceremonial dress. The exact opposite phenomenon occurs to traditional costume. Although Japanese modernization is initially forced by western ideology of power, positive reactions to western culture and changes in perception toward China leads to more active importation of western culture. This reflects the governmental effort such as the Foreigners Employment Policy in the early Meiji period, and the public also became receptive toward change. However, acceptance of the Western culture is only limited to academic and technological areas, while the traditional Japanese ethos(the Emperor system, Shintoism, patriarchism) is obstinately protected. Therefore, it can be inferred that such extreme polarization of modernization and traditional inheritance enabled both perspectives to retain their own characteristics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.7
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• pp.34-49
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• 2009

Carnival is an allowed chance to express ordinarily suppressed and overlooked emotions. Especially with strong meaning of daily overthrow masks, masquerades, and mask-costumes are essential for expressing methods and festival personality reasons. Carnival in modern society without losing a significant portion religion in a format suitable for the era of secularization and the transformation has been created of nothing, that is not a reflection of society is also a cultural phenomenon of its own internal social and external conditions through a variety of means can analogy cultural phenomenon is a stage. The purpose of this research comes from the carnival festivities, religious background, but the daily routine of life to know who joined his escape with the conduction of the role, going to enjoy the satire and humor, using the Dress to the eruption, which means that the form of the festival variety of analysis and with the victory of the expression of cultural phenomena and features on the festival and the dress for you should you wish to study.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.9
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• pp.1415-1428
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• 2010

Modernity in costumes is analyzed as the preference of change and novelty, the formation of the masses, and the aspect of function, which is transplanted by western modernization. However, it is seem that the factor of modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. This study examines the Proto-modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. First, this study examines the term 'Imamekashiki' which means the present time. Because of the recognition of every present time arises from the recognition and the preference of change and novelty. In the pre-modem Era, this study examines the masses formed by the publication and the play, Kabuki. This study provides an alternative answer to understanding what is to 'wear clothes' for Japanese people.