• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.136-149
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• 2015

This research aimed to study the making of western men's coats in the early 19th century. First of all, the study figured out the concepts and forms of western men's tops in the early 19th century by collecting and categorizing pictures including engravings, paintings and pattern books, and literature data. Second, this research identified the patterns, sewing, and design techniques by examining the pattern books on men's clothing in the early 19th century, and analyzed the preserved costumes to restore the selected models. Third, this research presented historical evidences and patterns after designing a men's tailcoat of the early $19^{th}$ century and checking the fit based on the analyzed forms and design techniques. The research discovered that the analyzed results between the tailcoat forms depicted in literature, pictures and pattern books and preserved costumes were almost identical. From this, it can be assumed that the tailors followed a manual when designing garments during that time given the similarity between historical records and remaining items. In addition, it can be seen that the forms and designing methods of men's clothing in the 19th century were almost similar to that of the modern menswear, despite the differences in producing process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.61-77
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the concept and characteristics of parody, and consider how parody was reflected in Thom Browne's collection centering on the expressive method. Thus, this study will attempt to shed new light on the creative possibility and artistic value of parody in men's fashion design. The methods are as follows. The ideas, characteristics and expressive methods that represent parody was considered by referencing various related books, papers, art critiques, etc. Based on this theoretical study, a case of Thom Browne's collection (Thom Browne menswear: 2004 S/S-2012 F/W) was observed to find types of parody, attributes and significance. Photo material was collected through websites such as www.thombrowne.com, www.style.com, etc. The type and characteristics of parody expressed in Thom Browne's collection was considered in the following aspects: imitative parody, critical parody and pastiche parody. Through such consideration, it was possible to realize the fashion designs that adapt Thom Browne's parody are very deliberate and calculative. The designs convey exaggeration, destruction of form, emphasis on discontinuity, transition into attraction, aesthetics of unfamiliarity, characteristic aspects of irrationality and contradiction. Through the study, it was possible to see Thom Browne's collection with parody adaptation shaping new creativity and broadening formative aspects in fashion design.

• Proceedings of the Korean Institute of Information and Commucation Sciences Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.859-862
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• 2015

Recent fashion business, is to promote and make a business strategy to realize a high added value to the first goal. Completion of the best men's clothing is only by making the pattern through a person's body size, making it as the best dressed. In this paper, we propose a system to automate production processes a significant impact on menswear production process, time and cost reduction in order to satisfy the needs of manufacturers and customers. Consequently, it is possible to provide optimal men's clothing by saving a time and expense of customers by, increases the customer's needs and men's clothing demand, it is possible to more easily perform to franchising custom men's clothing manufacturer.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.373-379
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• 2007

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effects of used color and tone on harmony perception by applying contrast coloration of shirt and necktie. This experiment designed by shirt color(red, blue, purple, green), tie color(green or blue tie with red shirt, yellow or red tie with blue shirt, yellow or green tie with purple shirt, purple or red tie with green shirt), shirt tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), tie tone(vivid, light, dull, dark), and perceiver gender(a male, a female). The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales, we harmonized those colors of shirts and neckties contrast, then made shirt and necktie tone differently. The subjects of this research were 640 male and 640 female college students. The data was analyzed by using SPS program. Shirt color, tie color, shirt tone, tie tone, perceiver gender influenced on harmony perception independently. Shirt color and tie color, shirt color and shirt tone, shirt color and perceiver gender, tie color and tie tone, tie color and perceiver gender, shirt tone and tie tone influenced on the harmony perception by interaction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.46-59
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• 2010

This study is a survey research for adult men in their from 20's to 50's. The purpose of this study is to find out that demographic characteristic, material knowledge, and purchase price have what effect on the selection behavior and the post-purchase satisfaction. The results are as follows. The purchase place according to demographic characteristic showed the significant difference in ages, monthly income, and occupation. The purchase amount per a dress suit and the having quantity of dress suits showed the significant difference according to all demographic characteristics. The importance of an selective criteria in case of selecting dress suits showed the partly significant difference according to demographic characteristics. The post-purchase satisfaction showed the no significant difference according to demographic characteristics, but showed the significant difference according to the knowledge degree for materials and purchase amounts. The interaction effect among demographic characteristics, the degree of knowledge for materials, and the purchase amount showed frequently the significant difference between two variables. The factor which have most greatly an effect on post-purchase satisfaction of menswear was the degree of knowledge for materials.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.14-35
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• 2021

This study compares and analyzes the designs of Burberry creative directors, Christopher Bailey and Riccardo Tisci. For this purpose, 322 photographs (176 Christopher Bailey and 146 Riccardo Tisci) were collected and the data analysis criteria were classified into color, shape, material, decoration, item, and fashion style. With respect to the data analysis method, statistical analysis and content analysis were combined. First, the design characteristics of Christopher Bailey top and bottom combined bright tone, tone-in-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combination, and smart casual appeared very frequently. Second, the design characteristics of Riccardo Tisci top and bottom combined were monotone, tone-on-tone color scheme, H-line, heterogeneous material combinations, and street culture. Third, the design differences between creative directors were significantly different in color, tone, color arrangement, pattern, material type, material combination, detail, top and bottom items, and fashion style. Burberry men's wear maintains Burberry's traditional design identity with achromatic colors, beige-based colors, and beige checks. Christopher Bailey's design direction is characterized by modernity in a casual mood that emphasizes practicality. The design direction of Riccardo Tisci is characterized by a wide gap between images in a semi-formal style that emphasizes Burberry's tradition and a free-spirited casual style.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.167-184
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• 2021

The objective of this study was to develop a fashion therapy program for improving body image and self-esteem among male workers. Accordingly, the demand for fashion therapy programs was examined by conducting a literature review, survey, and in-depth interviews with men working in the Daegu and Gyeongbuk areas. The results are summarized as follows. The fashion therapy program followed a framework of "introduction-development-final" and was 60 minutes in length, for four sessions (one per week). The contents of the program consisted of a study of the participants' appearance and any concerns they had about their body in Session 1. In Session 2, differences in image perception were examined according to color coding of menswear and personal color. Session 3 comprised understanding what styling is required to supplement men's body shape and what style is suitable for each participant. The content of Session 4 determined how to build social performance or positive image using nonverbal elements. Overall, this study has great significance in that it has developed a study on fashion therapy program originally applied for psychological treatment with women that has been adapted as a program to help improve positive emotions and social competitiveness of male workers in an office environment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.2
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• pp.213-227
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• 2023

To analyze the status and needs of the small- and medium-sized garment manufacturing industry in Busan, this study comprised an online survey of companies and interviews with 14 representatives of the 98 companies. The results are as follows: Approximately 34.7% of the garment manufacturers were located in Geumjeong-gu, Busan. The most common type of work was the contracting factory type. Daily production output was between 100pcs and 300pcs. Production materials comprised 42.9% woven and 24.8% knitted fabrics. Main products were menswear, uniforms, womenswear, casual wear, sports and leisure wear, protective clothes, and children's clothing. The main clients were uniform companies, main factories, wholesale markets, online shopping malls and promotion companies, exporters, and department stores. As a result of a survey on industrial needs with company representatives, their satisfaction with company employees was 57.2%, and the most important factor when hiring employees was job-related competencies, among which the ability to understand the sewing process was the most necessary. In terms of computer software literacy, illustrations and pattern CAD/CAM are required. They thought industry-university cooperation is crucial for advantage for advantage research and product development, as it allows for the sharing knowledge, resources, and especially human resources. The greatest administrative issue were human resources and funding.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.48-66
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• 2022

This study aimed to investigate and analyze the overall color utilization characteristics as design elements of advanced men's premium outer brands. From the analysis of a total of 889 color samples, PB showed the highest distribution in color, Bk, R, and P. The use of ltg and p of high and low chroma was high, centering on dkg of low value and low chroma, and g of medium chroma. The men's premium outer brand displays a luxurious color image centered on color planning due to color contrast between dark and grayish shades. The characteristics of colors and color distribution by brand were considered. The brands that utilized the most diverse colors and shades were Herno, which pursues sportswear of the Elegance image, and Stone Island, which pursues casual images of workwear style. These results show that systematic planning using colors and shades are utilized by all premium outer brand concept. The results of this study are meaningful because they can be used as basic data for effective product planning, men's outer design development, and color planning of outer clothing brands are they represent premium outer brands for men, and identifies color characteristics as differentiated design elements.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.145-158
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• 2017

This paper aims to analyze the characteristics of the contemporary Chinese fashion market and the competitiveness of Korean fashion brands in China. Fashion professionals experienced in both the Korean and Chinese fashion markets participated to investigate the Shanghai market and consumers. The results of in-depth interviews show that Shanghai is the most favorable city among Tier 1 cities for Korean fashion brands planning on entering into the Chinese market. Shanghai consumers are open to international brands and highly prefer newness in fashion. Contemporary menswear was selected as a potentially big market due to the increase of unique, young, upper-middle-class male consumers. The Korean fashion brands' strength is that they are capable of satisfying Shanghai consumers with excellent product planning and sensory design capabilities. Their disadvantage is that their brand recognition is weaker than that of global and international brands, and their ability to localize to the Chinese market is weak. The opportunity comes is from the Korean Wave, which is a positive for Korea's products and has good geographical access. The threat is that the Shanghai market is fiercely competitive; having access to many worldwide brands, and the competitiveness of Chinese brands is on the rise. To enter the Shanghai market, creative design ability, trendy product development, skill, and appropriate PR methods such as using Korean culture contents would be required to satisfy the young, powerful consumers in Shanghai.