• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.153-167
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• 2004

Korea had suffered the colony of Japanese imperialism and the Korean War from the invasion of the external circumstances. Such special situation made new influences on the clothing habits. The types of Korean women clothing could escape from the traditional style that had been maintained for thousands of years. The foreign clothes for Korean women had undergone various changes from the Liberation in 1945. The jackets that had been introduced to Korea at the Enlightenment period had become popular outfits for men. The jackets made big influences on the changes such as the social advances for women from the times background of the Liberation. The jackets possess very important meaning for the changes in the diffusion of feminism and fashion. Therefore, this research tries to investigate the forms, silhouettes, changes and structures of the jackets such as the locations of the collar, the sleeve, and the waste line. The process of the changes in the style of women jackets is also analyzed from the silhouette and the structure method. The development and changes will be understood of Korean women's jackets. The Korean women's jackets should also be examined further with the history of foreign clothing from now on. The fashion to be introduced from important society cultural phenomena and the Western Europe has been reflected into the changes in the style of Korean female jackets. Also, dramatic changes in the style of clothing indicate that the society had experienced a great deal of changes. It is verified that foreign clothes have been interacted with the stream of times worldwide. After the Liberation, the female jackets become a uniform style which just followed the Western European style. However, a season trend has been announced from the SFAA since 1990. Since then trendy jackets have been detailed more with this chance.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.934-950
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• 2018

This study suggests a new perspective for designing men's tailored jackets by more carefully considering human muscle structure. For this study, we examined research regarding the construction of the tailored jacket that is based on costume history references, as well as research regarding human muscle structure that is based on human anatomy references and the analysis of recent fashion designs illustrating the human body image. Based on this research, we developed various tailored constructions that account for human muscle structure. These constructions are applied primarily to the backs of four tailored jackets, as the back of the jacket needs a mechanism to accommodate the wearer's movement. The following conclusions have been derived from the study: First, by developing the tailored garment structure that accounts for the muscle structure of the human body, we suggest a new design direction for tailored garments. Second, we propose a new type of tailored jacket structure for the back of the jacket that incorporates an artificial muscle structure to accommodate the wearer's activities. This new type of jacket indicates the potential for designs that use structure, particularly the structure of the human body. Finally, by using the embroidery technique, we changed the texture of the material into the shape of human muscle. Thus, we propose a design that uses three-dimensional volume to accounts for the shape of human body tissue.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.738-755
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to provide basic data for the production of jackets with high fit by comparing and analyzing the adhesive and non-adhesive production methods of men's jackets. An analysis of the manufacturing method showcased differences between the adhesive and non-adhesive manufacturing methods in the cutting and wick attachment method, the shape and attachment method of the chest reinforcing wick, the sleeve attachment method, and the shoulder pad and sleeve reinforcing cloth attachment method. In evaluating the outfit, the overall fit of the shoulder, the fit of the chest, and the fit of the armpit were found to be high in the non-adhesive production method. In evaluating appearance evaluation, the front shoulder, chest, and sleeve overall appearance showed a high non-adhesive production method. Therefore, in order to increase the wearability of the shoulder pad and the the attachment method of the upper sleeve reinforcing cloth, the non-adhesive production method should be used, and in order to increase the overall wearability and armpit wear of the chest, the difference in the attachment method, and the reinforcement method of the armhole should be used. In addition, to increase the appearance of the jacket, non-adhesive production methods such as differences in wick attachment methods, shoulder pads, sleeve reinforcing cloth, and sleeve attachment methods should be used.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.654-663
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to improve the classic jacket pattern for Korean young men whose chest circumference is 91~94cm, status is 170~175 cm, and drop value between chest and waist circumference is 15. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. Through the comparative investigation on the conventional classic jacket patterns of Hyung-sook Lee's, 문화's in Japan, and SMA's and the clothing experiment, the characteristics of every three patterns were found. 2. According to correct the unsuitable point in Hyung-sook Lee's pattern which was found more suitable than other two patterns and to refer to the product size of the ready-made classic jackets for men, the new suitable classic jacket pattern was achieved. 3. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort and one to one comparison was applied to evaluate the new classic jacket pattern by comparing with the Hyung-sook Lee' s jacket pattern. From the result of the sensory evaluation and one to one comparison, it was found that the new classic jacket pattern was more suitable for appearance and comfort. 4. From the result of this study, the suitable surplus of men's classic jacket at present is about 23~24cm on the chest circumference, 31~32 cm on the waist circumference, 14~15 cm on the hip circumference, 13~14 cm on the upper arm circumference, and 14 cm on the wrist circumference and the ease is about 3.5 cm on the armhole circumference. This size is not the absolute size but it helps to make the surplus in any other clothes for Korean young men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.43 no.9 s.211
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• pp.175-191
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• 2005

This paper proposed a sizig system for men's jackets in order to improve the clothing fitness and rain the productivity. The sizing system was classified according to 3 age groups. Figure types were categorized by shoulder angle and body shape. The size interval of the basic dimensions was established at regular intervals centering around their means. Altogether, 15 size charts were developed based on the frequency distribution. Size designating measurements for jackets were height, chest girth and waist girth. Size intervals were 3cm for chest and waist girth, 5m for height, and 2cm for waist and hip girth. Considering the cover factor, charts with a limited number of sizes were suggested with necessary measurements for each figure type of each age group.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.8
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• pp.13-21
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• 2006

The objective of this study was to investigate the fit preference for ready-to-wear clothes(jackets and slacks) of adult men and to determine the respective differences by the age range and obesity level. The study method was a questionnaire survey with 465 male subjects aged from 20 to 59 years old. The questionnaire was composed of fit preference tendency, physical measurements, age, and occupation. The findings were as follows. 1. Regarding the fit preferred for each part of jackets and slacks, among ready-to-wears, the 'thing with some extra width' in every part was most favored, followed by the 'thing fitting perfectly'. 2. Differences were found in the fit preference tendency by the age of adult men. The fit preference tendency was higher among those in their 20's than among those of the other age ranges. 3. Differences were also found in the fit preference tendency by the obesity level of adult men. The fit preference tendency was higher in the order of the emaciation, normalcy, and obesity types. 4. The fit preference tendency was more affected by age than by obesity level. Clothing companies should consider ease to offer the proper clothing desired by consumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.87-97
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• 1996

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 20, No. 1 (1996) p. 87∼9'F The purpose of this study was to identify the change and chracteristics of 20th men's fashion under the influences of America. The result of the study as follows: 1. England had led men's fashion and introduced new styles of men's fashion such as oxford bags, plus fours, drape cut etc. in the early of 20th century. But America, which had the strongest Political and financial power after World War I, II, proposed Americans cut, soot sit, bold look. 2. In the first half of 20th century men's fashion was no longer created by imitation royalty and students of private school. American movies exerted tremendous influences on the clothing styles. Genereal public adopted the dress of movie stars and American men's fashion magazines inspired the new fashion and generated sales. So America made a contribution towards democratization of men's fashion. 3. Automobile industry and leisure living of America changed American life styles and clothing styles. The wealthy made fashionable tours to foreign country and European beach resorts. So their casual styles, summer business suits and dinner jackets effected 20th men's fashion. Therefore America played an important role in casualization of men's fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.30-44
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• 2018

The study purpose was to investigate the jacket-fit satisfaction level of men in their 20s and 30s, using body-scanning data and a questionnaire. Thirty-five men were scanned using a 3D body scanner. The participants were divided into three groups (Small, Medium, and Large) based on their chest-circumference measurement. Their levels of satisfaction with the fit of their tailored jacket were compared by group. Chest, waist, and hip circumferences increased substantially as group size increased. The M-group was mostly satisfied with all body-site views. The S-group was especially dissatisfied with height, back width, waist circumference, and upper-arm circumference. The L-group was especially dissatisfied with waist circumference and hip circumference. The majority of the participants preferred the jacket closely fitted to their body. More than half of the participants thought finding a jacket of suitable size was difficult. When purchasing ready-to-wear jackets, the S-group and the M-group considered shoulder width important, while the L-group considered chest circumference the most important area. When evaluating the fit of ready-to-wear jackets, the L-group evaluated chest circumference, back width, and waist circumference as poor fits. The M-group evaluated sleeve length and shoulder width as poor fits, and the S-group agreed with respect to sleeve length. Body-satisfaction levels and matching jacket-satisfaction levels differed by body-size group, as did areas that need improvement. The conclusion is that size-group analysis using 3D body scanning can be utilized effectively for jacket-fit analysis. The findings of the current study can be applied to improving jacket fit among young male consumers.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.155-171
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• 2007

This research aims to present the corresponding dimensions of China men's clothes on the basis of size specification of Korea men's suits. The results of this study, with the cooperation of Sejung Company exporting men's clothes to Ningbo City, Zhejiang Province in China, are as follows: 1. Based on the drop standard of KS K 0050, the body types of Chinese men in their 20s were classified. A body types were 55.77%, Y body types were 32.16%, B body types were 11.55% and BB body types were 1.51%. 2. According to the criteria of ready-made dimensions of normal body type suggested in Korea Standards, and in consideration of the basic distribution reality of body dimensions, representative 5 sizes were selected. 3. Research jackets by different sizes were produced and went through wearing tests. The means of 1st wearing test were 3.86, 4.09, 4.09, 3.57, and 3.69. The mean of 2nd wearing test of 88-73-170 size was 4.32. 4. The corresponding size specification of China men's clothes based on those of Korea men's suits were presented here, showing product sizes and physical items in detail.