• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.63-78
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• 2018

This study analyzed gender-fluid images as expressions of feminism and gender identity expressed in fashion collections. As for the research method, this study searched the fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, utilizing key words related to feminism on an online portal, and collected the photo materials of fashion collections provided by vogue.com. This study classified the photo materials of 31 fashion collections, with the theme of feminism, into femininity, masculinity, androgyny, and avant-garde, according to the fashion design elements that divide gender identity. As a result of the classification, 326 photos were collected, in which gender identity was expressed ambiguously. This study reclassified the collected photos according to their fashion items and styles. As a result of the study, it was noticed that the fashion collections with the theme of feminism expressed the messages, using lettering graphic images, and performance. In addition, they showed a form in which men's collections and women's collections were integrated according to the change of the perceptions of gender identity, of feminism, and delivered body positive expressions, respecting differences and diversity as individual subjects, by casting diverse models in terms of age, body size, race, and culture. As for the gender identity expressed in the fashion collections, the gender-fluid images were classified into empowerment images, that expresses social rights and dignity; agender images that expresses the possibility of a gender-flexible transition; rational images that expresses the rational and practical characteristics that removed the boundary of fashion; and images of pro-sexism that expresses a new gender identity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.53-68
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• 2015

The Beijing Opera is one of the leading representatives of Chinese culture, which includes literature, music, dance, martial arts, and a type of performance that stems from the Chinese cultural history that is still relevant today. The purpose of this study is to develop fashion-cultural products from the Lian Pu of the Beijing Opera, a Chinese cultural tradition that receives abundant positive feedback from around the world, showing its value in both academic and practical fields. This study was carried out first as a theoretical study of the literature, definition and types of facial make up used in the Opera, as a way of examining the formative aspect. Secondly, an analysis was conducted on the main characters, 'Guan Yu' and 'Zhang Fei' of "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms", 'Li Kiu' and 'Lu Zhishen' of "All Men are Brothers" and 'Monkey King' of "Journey to West", employing the collection belonging to 'Yongqi Zhao' who is an expert on the Chinese Beijing Opera. Thirdly, two concepts were categorized, based on the analytic results of the abovementioned characters, each of which were then further categorized into three sub concepts. In regard to cultural development designs, the results of an analysis on the facial make-up color, form, and texture of the four main characters were utilized to construct the themes, "Modern Chic" and "Traditional Splendor". The simplest form that has been represented in the four figures has been applied to "Modern Chic" to show a modern image in which black, white and light blue has been used alongside the vivid red, which is a Chinese favorite, to highlight the characters. In "Traditional Splendor", which is focused on the stage art of the Opera, we see more artistic traditions and colors, to further appeal to our emotions. Traditional motifs have been applied using traditional Chinese arts, in order to develop strong and brilliant colors. The two styles of cultural products were developed in the form of women's scarves and men's ties; a total of 24 designs were expressed, using Illustrator CS6. In the final step, 4 scarves and 6 ties were produced as a sample, using high quality silk. The development of these cultural fashion products will bring an opportunity to show how Chinese traditional culture can be widely utilized in commercial market design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.59-66
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• 1999

The purpose of this thesis is to review the costume and symbolism of the English novelist Jane Austen's novel "Emma" which was produced as a movie in 1996. The novel "Emma" 's periodical background is from 1814 to 1815 in neo-classical age of costume. The English woman's costumes in 1810 were high-waisted empire style dress and redingote, pelisse, spencer jacket for going out. Man's costumes were frock coat, tail coat, shirts, vest and bottoms were breeches, pantaloons and trousers. In this literature, Harriet's naive and immature image was shown in the name of 'pretty'. Elegant and graceful way of talking and attitude was expressed in the 'beauty' of Emma. The costume is symbolically expressing the character's personality ; white is for Emma's intelligent and elegant image, pastor Elton's black suit symbolized his profession and ambitions for success. The analysis of the costumes from the movie "Emma" is following ; women wore empire dress and outer garment, redingote and spencer jacket. The fabrics were muslin, gauze, satin, lace and velvet. Men's costume were frock coat, tail coat with the shirts, vest, and pantaloons. The fabric was brown, black and dark color of wool. With an analysis of the movie "Emma", I would like to present '99 S/S collection, targeted for 21-25 aged woman by use of Emma's elegant and Harriet's pretty image as a main subject. As a second subject, I have chosen neo romantic memory, sophisticate feminine and pretty Harriet.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.175-194
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• 2013

Collection of data for this study was conducted by 271 questionnaire responded by the consumers of purchasing anti-allergy bedding products, and analysed statistically using SPSS. Research results through the questionnaire, it was determined to be the cause of allergic disease consumers most house dust mites. Recognition and recognition of house dust mite habitat, bedding called the most recognized. The anti-allergic bedding purchase motives and intelligence recommendations salesman recommendations and store display products that have the greatest impact. Highly educated respondents were more important role in the salesperson's recommendations and famous brand awareness to purchase. Higher income level of the respondents buy anti-allergic bedding for allergy symptoms allergy preventive and mitigation efforts. Quality ratings sewing, color, laundry management was more important in women than in men. The ages 20 to 30 showed that respondents think that more important than plush and brand. More than 40, laundry convenience is more important. Sewing and laundry management respondents of high school or less. Properties for the anti-allergic bedding satisfaction in women than in men, laundry, storage convenience, to prevent dust skimp on the effects of satisfaction was convenient. 30-40s for light weight than satisfaction, high durability and anti-allergic effect on satisfaction was higher than 20 respondents more than 50 respondents. Than 20 respondents more than 40 respondents also appeared to be more about the durability that meets. Anti-allergic bedding was soft to the touch, warmth, dust Blow out prevention effects, anti-allergic performance satisfaction of the properties has a positive effect on repurchase intent. It were also identified as important anti-allergic bedding inclined to the performance of a soft feel and anti-allergic recommended.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.657-669
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• 2006

This study is to investigate the previous cases of plural eclecticism through the works of Vivienne Westwood, who contributed to the spread of innovative and eclectic English fashion out to the world as well as to review plurality and its phenomena since the 20th century more systematically. In terms of research methodology, the phenomena of plural eclecticism were examined from social and cultural perspectives, whereas bibliographic research and case study were performed for the phenomena of eclecticism in fashion. From the perspective of plural eclecticism, the results from analyzing the works of Vivienne Westwood by the divisions of temporal eclecticism, spatial eclecticism, and contingent eclecticism are described in the following. First, Vivienne Westwood emphasized historicism tendency of temporal eclecticism. Her efforts to try to modernize history went beyond ages and social classes including men's clothing, prostitutes' costumes, craft items, and dresses for royal family. Second, her spatial eclecticism was reflected on the first collection themes inspired by the American Indians or borrowed from the names of Voodoo in the Tropics. Finally, infra-fashion as an expression of contingent eclecticism of Vivienne Westwood's works can be interpreted as plural eclecticism which shows contingent eclecticism and historic eclecticism at the same time. This study aimed at proving preceding implications concerning recent plural eclecticism through the analysis of the works of Vivienne Westwood who tried a radical design of plural eclecticism in an effort to modernize the tradition of England in the circumstances where a number of trends and styles exist together, with their own uniqueness and values.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.5
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• pp.149-162
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• 2016

This study examines the costume artifacts discovered in the burial site of Choi Kyung Sun(1561~1622), which was moved from Gangwon in Gangrung Province. About 30 artifacts, including costumes, were recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave. The collection of men's coats discovered in the grave consisted of a Dallyeong (Official's robe), Jing-nyeong(Man's coat), Jungchi-mak(Man's coat), Cheolrik(Man's coat), Chang-ui(Man's coat), Gwang-su-ju-ui(Man's coat), and Do-po(Man's coat). Han-sam(Undershirts), Jeo-go-ri(Jacket), and trousers were also recovered, along with several items made of textiles, such as the cloth used to shroud and wrap the body. The costume artifacts recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave have several characteristics that distinguish them from other early 17th-century costume artifacts. Firstly, the body had a hairband made from horsehair. Secondly, the men's trousers were of the type worn before the Japanese Invasion(1592~1597). Thirdly, the style of the coats' sleeves, when compared with artifacts from other regions, was from an earlier era. Through these costume artifacts, it can be inferred that people who lived in the Gangwon Province, which was far away from Seoul, continuously wore outfits from before the Japanese Invasion, and trends spread slowly.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of power-shoulder jacket shown in 08/09 F/W and 09/10 F/W London, Paris, Milan, New York collection and extract main expression words for development of semantic differential scales of visual image according to the change in shoulder angle and width of power-shoulder jacket. The result of this study is as follows. Power-shoulder jacket which were worn by 1980 business women have similar cutting with men's suit jacket, but have characteristics of exaggerating the body figure as exaggerated shoulder with pad and tight waist like an inverted triangle silhouette. Power-shoulder jackets shown in collections used glossy and glittering material and dark colors and formed slim silhouette with matches of shoulder line of temperate senses and casual wear. Like this, the power-shoulder jacket was expanded to daily casual wear from traditional formal wear. Main expression words of visual image of jackets according to the changes in angle and width of shoulder differ greatly depending on the expansion degree of angle and width of shoulder. Changes in shoulder angle may look tense, stiff and too much according to the amount of changes. However, it also has the image of sharp but dignified and charismatic. Also, it helps to show body figure more efficiently like being slim and looking taller. Related to the current trend emphasizing shoulder among women, it is evaluated to be stylish and trendy. When the expansion degree is not too much, changes in shoulder width partly show slim and slender waist under the influence of wider shoulder with basic tailored jacket image. However, when the expansion degree is enlarged, image related to the body figure is more definite compared to other visual images.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.762-776
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• 2020

This study tried to investigate the effect of the service quality attributes of the curation on the satisfaction, trust, and intention to continuous use of consumers in that curation services are derived in various forms and being greatly activated, there are not many academic discussions centered on them. Besides, differences between curation services by each service provider were also verified in this study. Data collection was conducted for one month in August 2019, with 373 men and women in their 20s. The results of the study are as follows. First, according to the result of investigating the variables that make effect on user satisfaction of curation service, it was identified that satisfaction has increased when figures of fulfillment, responsiveness, personalization, design, ease of use, and safety were higher. Second, among the variables that influence the reliability of the curation service, trust increases when user satisfaction, design, ease of use, and safety are higher. Third, satisfaction has a positive effect on trust, and both satisfaction and reliability affect the intention to continue use. Fourth, as a result of examining the difference in quality between the curation services divided by Curating subject, it was found that satisfaction, ubiquitous connectivity, and responsive quality were measured higher in the business operator service than in the user curation service.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.7
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• pp.164-175
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• 2013

This study examined the Yemou(a hat for a dead woman) from the ladies' clothes excavated from the Lady Lee's tomb in order to trace the significance of the clothing composition and its social origin in the Chosun dynasty. The compositional characteristic of Yemou covers the body of the hat which is not connected with the cover, Wonsal which has a round shape that covers the face of the dead body, and two Gae(a ribbon on the backside of a hat). Seongho Lee-ik(one of representative Confucian scholars in the Chosun dynasty) stated in his book entitled "Seongho Notes", that the structural elements of Yemou originated in Yum(wrapping cloth for the head of a dead body). According to Seongho, Yemou's body part came from the scarf used to cover the head. Wonsal(the cloth of round shape for covering the face) and Gae were derived from Yum made of two ends of long cloth for covering and binding the head of a dead body. Yongjae Kim-kunhang(one of Confucian scholars in the late-Chosun dynasty) demonstrated in his "Yongjae Collection" the social background of the emergence of Yemou. Yemou was the hat produced from the process of nationalizing the Chinese courtesy of clothing. In other words, Bokgun(a man's hat) in the Chosun dynasty replaced the Chinese Yum. Unlike the Chinese custom, man and woman in the Chosun dynasty wore different clothes respectively. According to the clothing custom of the Chosun dynasty a woman wore a female hat, Yemou instead of men's Bokgun.

• Asia-pacific Journal of Multimedia Services Convergent with Art, Humanities, and Sociology
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• v.8 no.7
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• pp.719-728
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• 2018

Each country has its preferred image and how to convey it effectively. The study aims to find traditional Korean makeup methods and ways to effectively convey a preferred image. Among the ancient manuscripts of Joseon Dynasty, the book " Galgap Collection " has ten ancestors who express their favorite eyebrows in the form of a grandfather. In this study, we applied tens of thousands of words to the actual model to solve the problem and make up the methods of literature, the Internet, and example. The model stimuli were measured by conducting a street experiment of 10 makeup experts and 70 men and women's blinds. The result was that the " Gaewon- .aemi " type seemed to be the best, attractive and most consistent with the shape of the thinking eyebrows and the current fashion of eyebrows. In a variety of nonverbal ways expressed in the classics, the study looked at ways to use visual poetry to communicate effectively. This research will help transform design ideas and help understand cultural trends of different times.