• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.987-1003
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to supply available data for men's fashion design planning by analyzing the trend and design tendency of the preppy look in the domestic men's collection. In the men's collection of Seoul fashion week from 2011 S/S to 2015 S/S, 494 photos judged to be the preppy look by three design specialists were chosen in Seoul fashion week and style.com's web-site. Design analyses were compiled based on year, season, brands, item, color, material, and silhouette. The preppy look was found often in S/S season, three piece combinations were the most common, and "H", "I" silhouettes were also popular. Refined black and refreshing orange were used with traditional preppy colors like navy, beige, gray, and white. Contrast color arrangement and neutral, moderate tones were seen repeatedly. Two-thirds of fabrics were pattern-less with clean, bulky, and soft textures. Coordinating accessories like hats, backpacks, books, headsets were used frequently. Among the various preppy fashion types, there were 'traditional preppy' faithful to tradition, 'sophisticated preppy' with refined semi-formal look, 'sportive preppy' with active sports sense, and 'natural preppy' with natural and comfortable senses. In a contemporary preppy look, traditional and practical senses are combined with casual and sportive pieces. This study can provide the data for design planning, interpreting, and applying the fashion themes along with contemporary sensibilities since the preppy look is based on cultural history.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.79-92
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• 2015

Covers of fashion magazines are part of the media that reflects the zeitgeist. Thus an analysis of the covers is a tool to probe the social and cultural changes of a period. This study attempts to shed light on the changes of the image of women on the cover of men's fashion magazines; this study intends to investigate the changes of status and role of women, from the past up to the present, through analyzing the meaning of the image of female models. For this purpose, this study conducts both literature and corroborative research. The period for the analysis is limited to post-1960s when female models began to appear alone on the cover of men's fashion magazine. The three decades from the 1960s through today have been analyzed according to its characteristics. The result is as follows: female models in the 1960s were shown as subjugated and ancillary to men as a commodity for the affluent materialistic civilization after World War II. In the 1970s, thanks to feminism movement, the image of resistance dominated. As a result of women's right movement, the 1980s came to witness the female image of subjective characteristics. Finally, starting in the 1990s, a mixture of subjugated, resistant, and subjective image of female models has appeared. In the contemporary culture, where the communication through images is being increased, the image of the female models in fashion magazines could work as a criterion to measure the social change.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.117-124
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• 2016

This study considered about freaky design of men's wear in Edo period, and also compared and analyzed it to modern men's wear. The purpose for this study is to contribute to the development of modern men's wear by this analysis. Edo period was a male dominated period, so culture of showing off their powers appeared in their fashion as symbols of skulls, monsters or tattoos. Kabuki culture used this kind of social background and it incited the actors roles and clothes to become more famous. 2016-17 F/W, 2017 S/S modern men's wear expressed more various freaky design, so it was able to be classed as shapes, pattern, materials and total coordination. Edo period just expressed freaky design by symbols however, freaky design in modern men's wear is showing more various expressions. This study can conclude that freaky design usually shows weird, peculiar, scary and dampish images. Also freaky design showed in the persuit of various choices including parade of power in modern men's wear.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.157-169
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• 2012

The aim of this study is to serve as a stepping stone to outlook changes in men's fashion based on gender characteristics and the design proposal as a reference to shirts design for men's wear brands. This study is a theoretical work extracted from related books, dissertations, and web- resources referenced. Research method is as followed. It is based on the four main collections from S/S 2001 to S/S 2010 and selected designer brands among the most influential foreign men's fashion designer brands which have show cased their collections of 19 seasons in the last 10 years. These are what the study has found out. Firstly, the shoulder-line which used to be straight and hard in men's dress shirt has changed to comfortable curved line which falls from the shoulder to sleeve. Silhouettes were mainly shaped to an hourglass or slim silhouette representing the body curve line. Unlike how the masculine beauty was emphasized through the straight line, men's dress shirts nowadays used curved line for softness. Secondly, there were various designs with decorations added to the basic structure, making it no different from women's blouse and blurring the line between men's and women's fashion. Thirdly, colors were normally in bright ones. Tones were often in pale tone which used to be the women's color. Also choosing shades of yellow or red was a remarkable change in men's wear. Fourthly, through varying patterns and texture there were many shirts that gave clear visual effect. There were approximately equal portions of patterns with feminine image like natural patterns, abstract patterns, or small patterns and patterns with masculine image.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.477-486
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• 2010

This study aims at establishing a sizing system required for producing ready-made clothes which can fit the body shape of disabled men using wheelchair. It measured the bodies of 178 adult men using wheelchair and compared the sizing system of German adult men using wheelchair (1984) with KS system(KS K0050, 2004) in order to establish standards of the sizing system. AS a result, in terms of classification of body shapes, KS system cover more types of disabled men's body shapes and especially, A types (Drop 15.6) showed the widest coverage with 32%. In classification of heights, the widest range of height was 170 cm, and Korean men's four sizes between 158 cm and 176 cm covers 88.2% of disabled men's body shape. For chest size, 91.1% of disabled men's chest sizes were included in seven sizes, which are 4 cm intervals between 88 cm and 112 cm with 100 cm standard. In consideration of the ranges of height and chest, the general sizes (A types; 11 sizes, B types; 3 sizes, Y types; 5 sizes) are selected to present the standardized measurements. Basic parts of the upper garment sizing system for disabled men using wheelchair were height-chest-waist size.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.211-225
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• 1996

In this paper we discuss the corelation be-tween feminism and fashion and examine its influnce on mordern fashion. And we also try to infer what the fashion design will be like in the future by understanding the value of modern fashion from a new viewpoint. The Early Feminism which advocated the similarity between man and women held the thought that women could be equal to men only when they behaved in the same way as men did, In 1970s when the pendulum of the Early Feminism movement reached its highest point a manish look began to flourish. The manish look introduced the items once employed only for men such as trench costs tidy tailored suits shirts and ties to women clothes. It has taken root deeply in women's life and is still employed in various ways by many designers. From the late 1970s the pendulum of feminism movement began to swing toward the Essentialist Feminism which emphasized the differences between men and women. It focused not on the negative image of women seen from male-oriented viewpoints but on their positive image and stressed women's sexual characteristic to make distinction between two genders. in fashion the Essentialist Feminism played a role in bringing about a sexy look which stressed the erotic silhouette of woman's body. The latest feminism is the socio-cultural one. It sees the distinction between men and women as sexual discrimination and introduces the androgynous human which carries the characteristic of two sexes. it leads to ambiguity of sex roles and at the same time serves to make androgynous social atmosphere by admitting the coexistence of two genders. The androgynous idea in fashion is expressed as a new trend which crosses men and women's own beauty while keeping their own identity intact. As we have briefly reviewed feminism in fashion has been presented in various ways with regard to expressing the nature of men and women. And it has continuously indicated the ultimate message of the salvation of mankind such as the respect for humanity and recovery of humanism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.125-135
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• 2015

This study is a theoretical research based on previous domestic and international researches. The case study proceeded by collecting images from periodicals such as International Men's magazine GQ, First of all website(www.style.com) and Vogue website(www.vogue.com) were viewed. The images were selected had shapes, colors, and motives with Japanese aesthetic traits from Comme des Garçons' men's Collections of 2011 F/W to 2016 S/S. The purpose of this study is to find out the possible sources of forms and expressive methods of future fashion through Japanese traditional aesthetics of Rai Kawakubo's fashion world. Designers are expected to continue on using traditional aesthetic beauties of other countries as sources of modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.21-33
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to Investigate the value of multi-culture and to examine how multi-culture has been reflected in men's fashion. As for the research methodology, literary research was under taken to study psychoanalytical and socioeconomic contexts in which multi-culture in men's fashion has been formed. In addition, demonstrative studies on styles were undertaken through the analysis of pictures and photos. The historical range of this study is from the 19th century when western and modern original form of men's dress were visualized, to the year 2001 when the elements of multi-culture are expressed in men's fashion. Westerners in 19th century respected Greek fine arts and the desire for realistic restoration of the body of Greek hero is well reflected in men's suits. Other races were forced to believe such realistic depiction of the Greek body as a symbol of modernization. With the advent of the Information Society In the late 20th century, absolute power had been decentralized, and people in the third world have revealed the racial contradictions by realizing the concept of splitted subject existing In unconscious. In the post-colonial world in the late 20th century, the value of diverse cultures is admitted. Models come from various races in fine art or photographic work Fashion trends are no longer limited to dominant mode, and designers express multi-culture by adopting and renewing folk elements from all over the world.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.123-135
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.93-104
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• 2003

This study investigated clothing shopping propensity and consumer awareness of Chinese adult men to provide necessary basic data for effective construction to cope with inroads into Chinese men's wear market. Research subjects were Chinese men in big five city (Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Harbin, Guangzhou). Returned 863 questionnaires were analyzed by mean, factor analysis, ANOVA, Duncan's Multiple Range, regression analysis with SPSS 10.0. Results of this research were as follows: 1. Chinese men's apparel shopping propensity factors were analyzed by four groups, such as fashion toward propensity, consume propensity, brand loyalty propensity, and casual preference propensity. 2. Consume propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer buying awareness. Brand loyalty propensity among 4 factors influenced most on consumer brand awareness. Fashion toward propensity influenced most on consumer fashion awareness. 3. According to region, there were significant differences to four grouped apparel shopping propensities. Harbin, Guangzhou were indicated higher fashion toward propensity than other areas. Guangzhou was indicated higher consume propensity than Dalian. Dalian was showed lower brand loyalty propensity than other areas. Beijing was showed higher casual preference propensity than Guangzhou. According to income, there were significant differences to four apparel shopping propensities. Highest income group was showed higher fashion toward propensity than other income. The higher men earned income, the higher brand loyalty propensity. Highest income group was showed lower casual preference propensity than lowest income.