• Title/Summary/Keyword: masculine

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Study on Expression of Texture of Clothing Materials Using Silk and Nuno-Felt Technique (실크와 누노펠트 기법을 이용한 의상 소재의 텍스처 표현 연구)

  • Oh, Yean-Ok;Chung, Myung-Bee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.9 no.1
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    • pp.1-11
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    • 2007
  • This study suggests the new technique to express the texture that copes with the demands of the times by trying to apply the new Nuno-felt technique, to the silk, the representative material for emotion, in order to provide the basic data for the development of highly value added and competitive materials in the domestic and international markets as well as to meet the demand of consumers in the high emotion age pursuing the idiosyncrasy and qualify enhancement. Nuno-felt is the felting technique that places the wool of desired thickness on the thin fabric using wools and various kinds of fabric materials and rubs them. The samples are 3 kinds of silk including plain Chiffon with different touch, Pongee and Organza and Merino Wool, the best quality wool of wools. As a result, beyond the simple surface effect from the silk showing the superior drape feature with one color and soft wool, the Nuno-felt technique created the feminine as well as masculine, classic and modem image. Furthermore, the harmony of opacity and transparency produced the new dynamic and dimensional texture with the combination of different emotions through the visual emotion of different grey colors and rough, crude and soft touch. This study suggested the possibility that the Nuno-felt technique could create the new emotional materials for the modem sense by combining the materials with different features from the wools unlike the traditional simple felt technique.

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Characteristics in Paul Smith's Contemporary Men's Jacket Design According to the Change of Gender Image (성(性)이미지 변화에 따른 폴 스미스 남성 재킷의 디자인 특성)

  • Lee, Jinkyoung;Lee, Youn-Hee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.16 no.3
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    • pp.151-161
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the characteristics of Men's Jacket design in Paul Smith. According to the Change of Gender Image. Following study comprehends gender images and the concept of man's jacket through series of collected data and observes the influence that sociocultural background had upon men's wear. A standard of contemporary men's jacket, the subject of this study, is established based on the review of literature. According to this specific standard, photos of men's jacket were obtained from Paul Smith men collection and from these data the characteristics of men's jacket were analyzed. The method of this following study was to establish a standard of data collection from review of literature and to gather 721 photos of men's jacket from Paul Smith, which consistently appeared in first view korea for 28 seasons from 2001 s/s collection to 2014 f/w collection. Design characteristics of collected data were categorized by shape, color, fabric. This study brought forth following results. Paul Smith's jacket had more X-shape silhouette of feminine image. Color was mostly low chroma of RB series, so that masculine images could be pointed out. Compared to other brands, from 2004 to 2006, more jackets with natural pattern and abstract pattern were widely seen. In terms of fabric, feminine fabrics with glossy and flexible characteristics were used.

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The Aesthetic Qualities Featured in Vivienne Westwood's Works (비비안 웨스트우드(Vivienne Westwood)의 작품세계와 미적특성)

  • 염혜정
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.37
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    • pp.71-88
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    • 1998
  • This study will analyze the aesthetic qual-ities revealed in the work of Vivienne Wes-twood in order to gain an understanding of the development process and uniqueness of modern avant-garde fashion. Westwood gained worldwide recognition in the 1970s as the Punk movement emerged in London. Although her works have often been described as decadent and anti-establishment, her anarchic view of fashion has had a considerable influence on other designers, both in England and around the world. Vivienne Westwood's works can be divided into three periods. In the first period(1971∼78). Westwood design demonstrated elements which were variations of the subcultural Punk style. The noteworthy designs of this period included ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, and fetishist accoutrements. In the second period(1979∼83), her designs expressed elements from ethnic and primitive tribal societies through the 'Pirate', 'Savages', 'Buffalo Girls', 'Witches' collections, which inspired New Romanticism movement. In the third period (1985∼ ), through works such as 'Mini-Crini'collection, her works identified elements from the old west and used materials such as crinoline and Harris tweed and contemporized them by rearranging the innovative technique. In the end the news synthesis helped formulate new ideas. The aesthetic qualities in Vivienne Wes-twood's works can bed identified with the following themes : Punkature, Erotic Intelligent-sia, Anarchic Collage. First, within Punkature, Westwood's ideas are at the forefront as her impact on the cut of clothes and creative detailing have been considerable. Also, while her ideas can be extreme, her clothes are wear-able, resulting in the synthesis of Punk and couture. Second, as Erotic Intelligentsia, Vivienne Westwood does not present sexuality as a straight forward attribute that fashion so often tends to do, but instead as a matter for inquiry, exploration and debate. She asserts that sexuality is always an interplay between the polarities of masculine and feminine, of dress and undress. Third, as Anarchic Collage, she has taken, juxtaposed, and transformed objects and symbols from dominant culture, like every modern subversive movement from Dada to Punk. She has continued this form of anarchic collage, mixing styles from various times and places, taking them out of their traditional context. From thiss viewpoint, Vivienne Westwood's works can be considered to be made up of past themes merged with is contemporary. The usage of contrasting elements such as Punk and couture to communicate her ideas visually or technically.

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A Study about Bisexuality in Current Fashion-Basis on a Representative Designers and their Characteristics in the each period- (현대패션에 나타난 양성적 복식에 관한 연구-시대별 대표적 디자이너와 그 특성을 중심으로-)

  • 채금석
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.44
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    • pp.37-56
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    • 1999
  • In clothing, a tendency of Bisexuality is in case of wearing clothing of the opposite sex, the mixing of modeling principle and characteristic of man and woman, the exclusion characteristic of sexuality that present sexlessness-the third sex. They-Designer Gabrielle Chanel, YSL, Giorgio Armani-give characteristic of man's fashion to women's fashion. However, the consciousness in design is different. Chanel apply principle of man's suit to woman's wear to express authority and power about gender image, hereby she express women liberation and equality of man and woman based on social ideology through fashion especially, she express women's sexual independency and self assurance to her clothing. YSL express liberal and bold women that pursuit reasonal and liberal life in 1970. As he apply tailoed suit's rigidity to women's wear, he made 'pants look' universal in women's wear through“Dress for success”in modern life. Armani apply successful modern image to women's wear, so he express women's image of confident intellegent as well as feminine image. He focus women's new image as man living liberal and indivisual life excluding social category rather than will of equality of man and women. Gernreich break sexual prejudice and release women freely, furthermore, as he express concern of sexuality pursuit liberty of mankind surpassing sex distinction with women liberty. Gianni Versace pursuit mix and extinguishment of sexual image many-sided, and break fixed idea of sex, and reprovide feminine and masculine image. So his design tend homosexuality because he regard women's glamor and ostensible sexuality as standard of beauty, he apply this to man's wear as well as women's wear. With this, he expresses sensitive and liberal man's that break characteristic of Gender that symbolize power and authority in man's wear through 'Without ties'.

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A Study on the Behavior of Body Piercing According to Body Piercer's Feeling of Depression to a Sex Role Identity, Self-Conception and Self-Strength (Body Piercer의 성역할 정체감, 자아개념, 자아강도에 따른 신체장식행동에 관한 연구)

  • Yoon, Kyoung-Bin;Yoo, Tai-Soon
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.5
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    • pp.537-544
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is as well as Body decoration is a means to identify self-expression from the original nature of an individual freedom and originality, so there remains a race has not a cloth on, but there is no race does not pierce, it has been done with the beginning of a mankind. Subjects for this study were 202 persons, who experienced body piercing with twenties as the central figure. Statistical analysis was done by using SPSS 10.0 version and included AVOVA, Cronbach ${\alpha}$ realbility, Multiple Regression Analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, and Cross tabulation analysis. The result are as follow, The difference of self-conception classified by body piercer's sex distinction did not show significantly. Of the body piercer's feeling of depression to a sex role, neuter gender's feeling of depression showed highly in case of the physical self and the moral self and in case of the social self neuter's feeling and feminine gender's feeling to a sex role showed high. For the reason why he/she did body piercing, neuter gender's feeling showed high in case of influenced by the fashion and masculine gender's and feminine gender's feeling showed high in case of influenced by the curiosity. The body decoration classified by self-conception of body piercer did not show a significant difference.

An Analysis of the Image of Domestic Men's Outdoor Wear (국내 남성 아웃도어 웨어에 나타난 이미지 분석)

  • Yoo, Hyun Jeong;Kim, Jeong Mee
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.399-411
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    • 2016
  • This research reviewed the developmental process of domestic outdoor wear and later analyzed the images given out by men's outdoor wear. The research results are as follows. First, military supplies left by American soldiers were dyed or reformed and then worn, and daily wear were mainly worn in the 1960s. Wears made from light and waterproof materials were worn and equipments were used in the 1970s. High functioning materials which allowed simultaneous breathability, waterproof and thermal insulation functions were used for wears in the 1980s. For the jacket especially, functionality was enhanced sith zippers, snaps and velcro to prevent cold air penetration in the 1990s. Florescent piping decorations and logo decorations, and prints and colors which reflected the trend, were used to emphasize fashionity and decorativeness in the 2000s. Second, Sophisticated image emphasized urban feeling with toned-down windbreaker jackets without much detail, with down jacket and pants. Casual image expressed a relaxed feeling with windbreaker jacket, shirts, jumper, vest and pants made of cotton, mesh knit and denim. Active image emphasized functionality by brightly colored windbreaker jackets, down jacket and pants. Ethnic image expressed an exotic mood with windbreaker jackets with stylized prints, with jumper, down jacket and pants. Military image showed a strong masculine feeling with jackets adorned with epaulettes, khaki colors and camouflage prints, with jumper, T-shirts, vest, shorts and pants. Avantgarde image exuded an experimental and unique feeling with jackets made of various colors and materials, such as cotton, jersey and glossy materials, with down jacket and jersey pants.

Design Characteristics of Contemporary Male Skirt and Expansion of the Masculine Image (현대 남성 스커트의 성별이미지에 따른 디자인 특성과 남성적 이미지의 확장)

  • Ryu, Limjeong;Lee, Jeehyun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.17 no.3
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    • pp.327-340
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    • 2015
  • Male skirt is found in traditional costumes all over the world. Due to the development of tailoring skills in the early Middle ages, men started wearing breeches and pantaloons gradually distinguishing the different characteristics of menswear and womenswear. Since then, skirt became the strong representation of the female gender, symbolizing the feminism. However, under the influences of technological development and diversification in 2000s, gender identity has been diversely expressed in modern fashion allowing male gender to embrace different sexual identities. The purpose of the study is to analyze the nature of male skirts, which have been popularized in modern men's fashion through both the expressional elements and compositional elements. This study associates design elements of male skirt, gradually appearing in the contemporary men's fashion with the sexual symbolism and reinterpreted it's significance in the flow of the modern fashion. Reinterpretation of the gender image in costumes are considered to contribute to the cultural context and extension in diversity. These research results forms a basic foundation to expand in studies of men's fashion design and gender image of costumes through cultural contexts and it's changes. It is considered that this can lay groundwork to make various attempts at passing over the archetype of the gender image besides the continuous appearance of male skirt in the field of fashion design.

A Study on the Change and Characteristics of Men's fashion -From 1890's to World War II- (남성패션의 변천 및 특성에 관한 연구 -1980년대 부터 2차 세계대전 직후까지-)

  • 이숙희
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.397-415
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    • 1995
  • The purpose of this study was to identify the change and characteristics of 20th men's fashion. The result of the Study as follows; 1 In the period 1890's-World War I there was a display of opulence and extravagance Therefore men's fashion pursued with elegance and grace. The rise of sports and an erosion of rules of Victorian society were evident influences before 1914. So men's silhouette resembled athletic appearance and less formality was shown in masculine attire. 2. During the period World War I-1920's the new equality of social relations between the sexes had an influence in fashion. Unisex look evolved so boyish shaped became the feminine ideal, men wanted to boyish fitted leaner stylings and natural shoulder suits. In the twenties youth, who seemed to have a social dominance, asserted their own testes in fashion. New style of men's fashion such as oxford bags and Ivy League Look appeared. After World War I "comfort" is the aim of fashion so casualness was reflected in fashion: vests often were discarded and man wore a soft, detachable collars. 3. In the thirties depression marked a shift in mood from gaiety and progressivism of the twenties to the conservative, even reactionary values. The role of men and women returned to more traditional attitudes, Every men's general appearance was bold and manly: his chest was broad and well-built, his shoulders square and muscular. The effects of World War ll were not on style but on textiles and clothing construction: lighter weight fabrics appeared and construction was simplified 4. Men's dress changed only in detail and not in essence. But there was a continued increase in the variety of clothes and color in men's fashion.

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Excrement and Subversion: Challenging the Authority and Values through Excrements in Contemporary Art (배설과 전복: 권위와 가치에 대한 도전으로 보는 현대미술에서의 배설)

  • Rhee, Jieun
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.13
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    • pp.133-156
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    • 2012
  • This paper briefly charts the history of excrement as part of the late 20th-century art and explores ways in which excrement functions in the realms of 'High' art. From Piero Manzoni's to David Hammons' performance , excrement has taken a small yet distinctively important part in the development of contemporary art. In an attempt to challenge the hegemony of 'high' art, on the one hand, and resist the commercialization and fetishization of art, on the other, Manzoni allegedly offered his own "shit" preserved in a tin can and sold it at the price of gold of the same weight. Andy Warhol took the legendary Abstract-Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock as the object of parody, simulating Pollock's dripping action by pissing onto the canvas that had been primed with copper-based paint. Warhol's urination produced splashes and stains of iridescent colors just as the patterns on ordinary abstract paintings. In contrast to Pollock's masculine action, Warhol's pissing alludes to the artist's homosexuality. Excrements in art also provoked controversies, debates, and even acts of vandalism against the artworks. The works of Andres Serrano and Chris Ofili infuriated many Christians for the blasphemous use of excrement with religious icons. Politicians engaged in the heated debates on the use of public and national funds in support of some of the 'politically incorrect' contemporary art. In the midst of media sensation and criticisms, these works challenged the conventional understanding of artistic beauty. The preexisting artworks were also targeted. African-american artist Hammons assumed the role of spectator in by urinating on Richard Serra's sculpture in the street of New York City. It was an act condemnation levelled at the racist pattern of the way in which large portions of funds and commisions of "public" art tended to promote established 'white' artists, whose work or creative process often failed to reflect the actual public. The use of excrement in art is not unusual in contemporary art practices. With its subversive power, excrement plays an important critical roles in the shaping of contemporary art.

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A Study on the Sexual Images Expressed in the 21th Century Men's Fashion (21세기 남성패션에 표현된 성 이미지 연구)

  • Lee, Hyo-Jin;Kim, Hyun-A
    • Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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    • v.18 no.4
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    • pp.891-902
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze sexual images in the 21th century men's fashion, including phenomenal formative changes and characteristics. Theoretical framework was developed based on literature reviews. Photo images were collected from collections presented in 2001 to 2008 on the internet sites. By focusing on sexual image. men's fashion design was analyzed. Since 21th century, men have expressed their own fashion sense and sexual image quite freely. Men's fashion has expanded its scope into region which are not exclusively of men's traditional fashion identity realm. The result of this study is as follows: First, Noble Dandyism is common among noble dandies whose desired image is luxurious, soft, and sophisticated. Second, Bisexual Caportism is another appealing 'Youth is beautiful' trend of our modern age. Beyond age and gender, modern people pay a special attention to the Caports look which aims to project an image of healthiness, dynamism, youth, and pure balanced beauty combined with fashion. Third, Macho Narcissism enjoys showing and exposing well-trained and beautiful bodies, compared to the old masculine image which was more known for expressing an authoritative and dominant strength. Fourth, Homme Fatale Vampicism seeks to accentuate deconstructed femininity and bare legs, matted make-up, long and curly hair, especially aims to emphasize sexual charms, which naturally makes its image more fascinating.