• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.4
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• pp.259-269
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• 2013

In this work, licorice extracts were prepared using various extraction conditions such as extraction solvent, temperature, and time from Glycyrrhiza uralensis (G. uralensis) produced in Korea and China and Glycyrrhiza glabra (G. glabra) in Uzbekistan. The optimum extraction condition was selected from the extraction yields and antioxidative activities of extracts. Korea licorice extracts showed the highest free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (46.05%) under the extraction condition of 85% ethanol at $60^{\circ}C$ for 6 hours. The prominent ROS (reactive oxygen species) scavenging activity using luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay and the cellular protective effect against $^1O_2$ induced cellular membrane damage were also shown from the extracts obtained from the same condition. Especially, Korea G. uralensis extracts exhibited the higher prominent protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$ = 116.4 min) than (+)-(+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol (${\tau}_{50}$ = 28.5 min) and the extraction yield of Korea licorice extract was 18.75%, which is 1.2 times and 2.5 times higher than that of Uzbekistan and China, respectively. These results indicate that the extraction condition of 85% ethanol at $60^{\circ}C$ for 6 hours is optimal to prepare licorice extracts, which can be applicable as anti-oxidative cosmetic materials.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.35 no.2
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• pp.125-134
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• 2009

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase, and component of non-fermented and fermented Lavandula angustifolia extracts were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (5.95 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of L. angustifolia extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (1.45 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of L. angustifolia on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The L. angustifolia extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ${\sim}$ 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of L. angustifolia extracts on tyrosinase was investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of L. angustifolia extract (144.80 ${\mu}g/mL$) and ethyl acetate fraction of fermented extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). Fractions of ethyl acetate and fermented extracts showed both 3 band in TLC and 3 peaks, 2 peaks in HPLC (340 nm), respectively. In each chromatography, fractions of ethyl acetate both from non-fermented and fermented L. angusfifolia have rosmarinic acid in common. These results indicate that the component and content of non-fermented and fermented extracts of L. angustifolia are different. Both of the extract of L. angustifolia can be used as an antioxidant.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.117-127
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Cayratia japonica extracts were investigated. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica were in the order: 50% ethanol extract(114.3 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species(ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of some Cayratia japonica extracts in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction($OSC_{50},\;3.30{\mu}g/mL$)<50% ethanol extract(1.21 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Cayratia japonica extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner($1{\sim}25{\mu}g/mL$), particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect(${\tau}_{50}$, 175.05min at 25 ${\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Cayratia japonica extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments(360 nm). Two components were identified as luteolin(composition ratio, 47.50%), apigenin(52.50). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Cayratia japonica extract revealed 3 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 4 peaks, which were identified as luteolin-7-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside(composition ratio, 11.14%), apigenin-7-O-${\beta}$-D-glucuronopyranoside(15.38%), luteolin(23.55%) and apigenin(49.92%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on elastase($IC_{50},\;70.5{\mu}g/mL$) was very high. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Cayratia japonica can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Cayratia japonica extract and antioxidative effects could be applicable to new cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.191-198
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• 2011

In this study, antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects of Geum aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extract ($4.70\;{\mu}g$/mL) showed the most prominent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity (FSC50). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of some G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity ($0.22 \;{\mu}g$/mL). The protective effects of extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim}25{\mu}g$/mL), particularly the ethyl acetate fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 416.20 min at $10 \;{\mu}g$/mL). The inhibitory effect of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated to assess their whitening and anti-winkle efficacy. The half maximal inhibitory concentration ($IC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction on tyrosinase was $95.23\;{\mu}g$/mL. The $IC_{50}$ of 50 % ethanol extract and the ethyl acetate fraction on elastase were $6.27 \;{\mu}g$/mL and $4.31 \;{\mu}g$/mL, respectively. These results indicate that extract/fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. Especially the ethyl acetate fraction of G. aleppicum Jacq. extracts could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antioxidant, antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.143-152
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• 2011

In this study, the antioxidative activity, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase, and active components of Quercus salicina Blume extracts were investigated. Q. salicina Blume was extracted using 50 % ethanol, from which ethyl acetate and aglycone fractions were prepared. The DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) of Q. salicina Blume aglycone fraction was the highest ($8.25\;{\mu}g$/mL). The luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay showed that reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of Q. salicina Blume aglycone fraction on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system was the most prominent at $0.039\;{\mu}g$/mL. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Q. salicina Blume against the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were increased in a concentration dependent manner ($1{\sim} 25\;{\mu}g$/mL). Especially, ${\tau}_{50}$ of aglycone fraction in $10 \;{\mu}g$/mL concentration showed the most protective effect at 259.9 min. The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on tyrosinase and elastase of Q. salicina Blume extracts were higher at aglycone fraction (respectively, $21.82 \;{\mu}g$/mL, $41.18\;{\mu}g$/mL). Active component analysis by TLC and HPLC showed quercetin, keampferol, catechin, quercitrin, isoquercitrin, hyperoside, and etc. These results indicate that Q. salicina Blume extract has strong antioxidative activity and can be used as antioxidant. Particularly, aglycone fraction of Q. salicina Blume showed superior antioxdative activity and high inhibitory effect on tyrosinase and elastase. Therefore, aglycone fraction of Q. salicina Blume could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.157-165
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• 2010

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and elastase of Rhododendron brachycarpum D. Don extracts were investigated. And the moisturizing effect of cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract were investigated by clinical trial. The ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (1.83 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent the free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The 50 % extract fraction (0.064 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner (1 ~ 10 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts on tyrosinase were determined with ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (70.5 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (122.40 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) on elastase were determined with ethyl acetate of R. brachycarpum D. Don extract (43.50 ${\mu}g/mL$) and aglycone fraction of extract (20.73 ${\mu}g/mL$). The cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction of R. brachycarpum D. Don extracts was formulated for skin hydration effect and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). The cream containing R. brachycarpum D. Don extract was applied to the right lower arm. After 180 min, the water contents in skin were increased by 1 ~ 4 % than the placebo cream. And TEWL of parts was decreased as 7.7 $g/m^2h$ (experimental cream) and 8.9 $g/m^2h$ (placebo cream) respectively. These results indicate that extract/fractions of R. brachycarpum D. Don can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And inhibitory activity on tyrosinase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for whitening and anti-wrinkle products. Also the increase of skin hydration of the cream containing extract could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for antiaging.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.1
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• pp.25-35
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects and inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase of Geranium nepalense extracts were investigated. The free radical(1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities ($FSC_{50}$) of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense were in the order: 50% ethanol extract(15.0 ${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). ${\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities($OSC_{50}$) of some Geranium nepalense extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescense assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract($OSC_{50},\;0.23{\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$)${\mu}g/mL$). Deglycosylated flavonoid fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Geranium nepalense extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect (${\tau}_{50}$, 676.7 min at 50 ${\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase($IC_{50}$, 70.0 ${\mu}g/mL$) and elastase ($IC_{50}$, 19.9 ${\mu}g/mL$) was very high. Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl-acetate fraction among the Geranium nepalense extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (370 nm). Two components were identified as quercetin(composition ratio, 15.3%), kaempferol(82.8%). These results indicate that extract/fractions of Geranium nepalense can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Geranium nepalense extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.183-189
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• 2012

In this study, the cellular protective effect and antioxidative property of peanut sprout root extracts were investigated. Cellular protective effects of peanut sprout root extracts on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The ethyl acetate fraction of extracts exhibited a cellular protective effect in a concentration dependent manner. Particularly, the aglycone fraction of extracts showed prominent cellular protective effects in a concentration range (5~50 ${\mu}g/mL$). They are more effective than that of (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol, known as a lipid peroxidation chain blocker. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of peanut sprout root extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}$-EDTA/$H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The ethyl acetate fraction of extracts ($OSC_{50}$; 1.59 ${\mu}g/mL$) showed a similar ROS scavenging activity compare with that of L-ascorbic acid (1.50 ${\mu}g/mL$), known as a strong antioxidant. On the other hand, the order of free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydraxyl, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}$) was (+)-${\alpha}$-tocopherol > 80% MeOH extract > aglycone fraction > ethyl acetate fraction. These results indicate that peanut sprout root extracts can function as an antioxidant in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to solar UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and to protect cellular membranes against ROS.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.189-200
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase, and components of Quercus glauca extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activity $(FSC_{50})$ of extract I fractions of Quercus glauca leaf was in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(12.45{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(10.47{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(8.57{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Quercus glauca leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activity was 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;4.2{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(1.58{\mu}ug/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.66{\mu}g/mL)$. Ethyl acetate fraction showed the most prominent scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract / fractions of Quercus glauca leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Quercus glauca leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a dose dependent manner, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect $({\tau}_{50}$, 398.67 min at $50{\mu}g/mL$). Aglycone fractions obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Quercus glauca leaf extracts, showed 2 bands in TLC and 2 peaks in HPLC experiments (360 nm) as well. Two components were identified as quercetin (55.77%), and kaempferol (44.23 %). TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Quercus glauca leaf extracts revealed 6 bands $(QG1{\sim}QG6)$, Among them, isoquercitrin (QG3), hyperin (QG4), and rutin (QG6) were identified. The inhibitory effect of aglycone fraction on tyrosinase $(IC_{50},\;73.5{\mu}g/mL)$ and elastase $(IC_{50},\;16.2{\mu}g/mL)$ was high. These results indicate that extract / fractions of Quercus glauca can function as antioxidants in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Quercus glauca leaf extract and inhibitory activity on tyeisinase and elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.178-184
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• 2011

In this study, the antibacterial, antioxidative and inhibitory effects of Allium cepa peel extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated. MIC values of the ethyl acetate fraction of Allium cepa peel on especially, S. aureus among the skin resident flora (Staphylococcus aureus, S. aureus; Propionibacterium acnes, P. acnes; Pityrosporum ovale, P. ovale; Escherichia coli, E. coli) were 0.06%. The aglycone fraction showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}=5.05{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction in the luminol-dependent $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were 0.05 and $0.03{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The cellular protective effect of the aglycone fraction on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes exhibited more prominent (${\tau}_{50}$, 480 min at $25{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction on tyrosinase were 9.16 and $8.68{\mu}g/mL$, the inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) of the aglycone fraction on elastase was $14.12{\mu}g/mL$ The transepidermal water loss of the cream containing 0.1% ethyl acetate fraction was decreased from $8.3g/m^2h$ in control to $6.8g/m^2h$ in the subjects applied with cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Allium cepa peel can function as antioxidant in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS, and possibly as antiaging agents. Allium cepa peel extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.