• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.50-55
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• 1999

Gao and Collins method (two-dimensional sediment transport trend-vector model) using grain-size parameters (mean grain size, sorting coefficient, and skewness) calculated by the statistical moment method is introduced to understand semi-quantitatively the sandy and surficial sediment transport trends on a coast of the East Sea. The result is the sediment transport vectors which indicate transport paths of surficial sediment by wave-induced currents. The corresponding morphological feature is a spit developed at the mouth of the Nam¬dae stream, which is a resultant sediment transported by longshore current and is blocking the circulation of ocean. After this, it is thought that seasonal research and hydrodynamic measurements are needed for verification of the results.

• Journal of The Geomorphological Association of Korea
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.121-131
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• 2019

The coast of BiIn Bay, Seocheon, is the potential site for the field-trip learning program. This article is written in the viewpoint of geographical and environmental education. In this study, it is tried to describe geomorphological landscapes of BiIn Bay Seocheon-gun relating with it's physiognomy, based on the Dasa-ri and Songrim-ri coastal sanddunes and the like. Although landforms like tidal flats and rock cliff constitute prominent landscape features in this area, other features such as beaches, coastal dunes, and coastal plains have various ramifications for human communities. Tidal flats, beaches and coastal dunes are formed by the combined actions of longshore current, tidal flows, waves and winds. To some extent, the erosion of sandy coast has been a global phenomenon. Anthropogenic impacts are involved in the transformation of landform. Most favorable field-trip course of BiIn Bay is from Songrim-ri through Dasa-ri and Shinhap-ri to Maryang-ri. This program about coastal landforms in BiIn Bay will contribute not only for educational meanings but also for satisfying the student' curiosity and interest. Also, this field-trip learning program will be suitable for over 4th grade elementary school students and middle school students.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.591-598
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• 2015

A hydraulic characteristics in the surf zone such as wave breaking points, wave set-down, wave set-up, wave-induced currents and run-up heights are studied using the SWASH model during Typhoon NAKRI(1412) in Haeundae Beach. Incident wave conditions is obtained from one-hourly observed wave data by KHOA and irregular wave by JONSWAP spectrum is given as an open boundary condition in the model. A Wave-induced current patterns by the SWASH model is compared with the observed currents and sediment flux patterns in that areas, the calculated maximum wave run-up heights in the model is compared with the video monitoring data, the empirical formula by Stockdon et al. and Mase. A dominant longshore currents toward the east of the beach appears due to the effect of incident wave direction and the geographical features and some rip currents occurs at the central part of the beach. The maximum wave run-up height(1.15 m) by the SWASH model shows a similar pattern with the video monitoring data(1.26 m) and the magnitude shows a similar result(1.33m) by Stockdon et al.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.180-198
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• 2019

In recent years, countries like Europe and Japan have been involved in many researches on the Low-Crested Structure (LCS) which is the method to protect beach erosion and it is regarded as an alternative to the submerged breakwaters, and compiled its results and released the design manual. In the past, studies on LCS have focused on two-dimensional wave transmission and calculating required weight of armor units, and these were mainly examined and discussed based on experiments. In this study, three-dimensional numerical analysis is performed on permeable LCS. The open-source CFD code olaFlow based on the Navier-Stokes momentum equations is applied to the numerical analysis, which is a strongly nonlinear analysis method that enables breaking and turbulence analysis. As a result, the distribution characteristics of the LCS such as water level, water flow, and turbulent kinetic energy were examined and discussed, then they were carefully compared and examined in the case of submerged breakwaters. The study results indicate that there is a difference between the flow patterns of longshore current near the shoreline, the spatial distribution of longshore and on-offshore directions of mean turbulent kinetic energy in case of submerged breakwaters and LCS. It is predicted that the difference in these results leads to the difference in sand movement.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.72-82
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• 1992

To accurately estimate nearshore current in shallow water regions. it is necessary to investigate the irregular wave transformation characteristics and radiation stress produced by random sea waves. This research is to investigate the application or the individual wave Analysis Method. the Component Wave Analysis Method and Representative Wave Analysis Method in the shallow water region. These methods were estimated by wave shallowing transformation when the waves propagate from deep water to shallow water region b)r generating regular waves, two component waves and irregular waves (Bretschneider-Mitsuyasu type). That is, the Indivisual Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the viewpoint of shallow water transformation of wave statistical characteristics and their zero-down-crossing waves (wave height period and wave celerity). And the component Wave Analysis Method is to investigate from the view point of shallow water transformation of basic frequency component wave and their interference frequency component wave. In addition, this research is to compare the measured mean water level elevation with the calculated one from radiation stress of irreguar waves that is assumed in the three methods above.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.238-245
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• 2015

Recently, Choi et al.(2015) showed that a numerical simulation of the SandyDuck experiment under a directional random wave environment agreed well with the experimental data including the wave height distribution of the random waves, the well-developed longshore current and its energetic fluctuation. Based on the Boussinesq modeling, this study investigates the effect of the alongshore variations, which are induced by not only the field topography but also the phase interaction of multidirectional random waves in the surf zone wave field, on the rip currents. As a result, transient rip currents as well as topographical rip currents cause the complicated surfzone circulation and mixing process due to their interactions in a multi-directional random wave condition while the topographical rip currents are dominant in a monochromatic wave condition.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.584-596
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• 2005

Morphology, surface sediments, sedimentation rates and sea-cliff erosion have been monitored, for one year to investigate the shoreline changes and tidal beach characteristics in Cheonsu Bay along the west coast of Korea. The seacliff of the bay consists of intensively weathered sedimentary rocks and soft soil, showing an erosion range of $-58.9\~73.3cm/yr$ by a weak wave forcing. Active sea-cliff erosions are recognized by peculiar geomorphic features, including saw teeth-shaped coastline, gravels, relict weathered basement-rock and 'Island Stack' exposed on the high-tide beach surface. The beach sediments show low compositional maturity at the south and north headlands and gradually high towards the central part. This observation seems to be caused by the fact that beach sediments are to originate from the both headlands in the study area and then transported by long-shore current associated with a wave action.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.547-556
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• 2007

The sediment transport by waves, wave-induced current and tidal current was calculated using the TRANSPOR2004, then the seasonal sediment budget was analyzed. Also, annual sediment budget was calculated, and sediment circulation patterns was deduced in the broad area including Haeundae beach. A sediment mainly inflows from the east coast of the beach and then moves to the eastward to the Dongback Is, where the 80% of inflow sediment transported to the eastward as a longshore sediment while 20% of them going out to the offshore at the center of the beach. Above results shows a good agreement with the sediment transport trend analysis results by the Gao model.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.32 no.4B
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• pp.243-251
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• 2012

To investigate the characteristics of rip current occurring at Haeundae beach, observations obtained from a buoy and a CCTV were analyzed and numerical experiments were conducted. During observed rip-current events, the CCTV images showed that a couple of wave-trains, which are close to regular waves with slightly different directions, propagated to the beach, and wavelet analyses of data from the buoy showed very narrow-banded spectra with a peak frequency. From the evidences, it was inferred that a known mechanism of generating rip current due to the nodal line area of honeycomb-patterned wave crest was one of the significant factors of rip current occurrences of Haeundae beach. The mechanism has been explained by the following: When two wave-trains with slightly different directions propagate to a beach, wave crests of the incident wave-trains form honeycomb pattern due to nonlinear interaction. The nodal lines of honeycomb pattern are developed in the cross-shore direction. And longshore currents flow toward the nodal line area which has very low wave energy. Consequently their mass flux is expelled through the area toward the sea direction. To confirm the generation, numerical experiments were performed using a nonlinear Boussinesq equation model. In the cases with two incident wave-trains with slightly different directions and with a monochromatic wave propagating over a submerged shoal, it was seen that the honeycomb pattern of wave crests was well developed, and thus rip currents were evolved along the nodal lines.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.43 no.4
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• pp.307-320
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• 2021

Udo Rhodolith Beach is a small-scale, mixed sand-and-gravel beach embayed on the N-S trending rocky coast of Udo, Jeju Island, South Korea. This study analyzes the short-term topographic changes of the beach during the extreme storm conditions of four typhoons from 2016 to 2020: Chaba (2016), Soulik (2018), Lingling (2019), and Maysak (2020). The analysis uses the topographic data of terrestrial LiDAR scanning and drone photogrammetry, aided by weather and oceanographic datasets of wind, wave, current and tide. The analysis suggests two contrasting features of alongshore topographic change depending on the typhoon pathway, although the intensity and duration of the storm conditions differed in each case. During the Soulik and Lingling events, which moved northward following the western sea of the Jeju Island, the northern part of the beach accreted while the southern part eroded. In contrast, the Chaba and Maysak events passed over the eastern sea of Jeju Island. The central part of the beach was then significantly eroded while sediments accumulated mainly at the northern and southern ends of the beach. Based on the wave and current measurements in the nearshore zone and computer simulations of the wave field, it was inferred that the observed topographic change of the beach after the storm events is related to the directions of the wind-driven current and wave propagation in the nearshore zone. The dominant direction of water movement was southeastward and northeastward when the typhoon pathway lay to the east or west of Jeju Island, respectively. As these enhanced waves and currents approached obliquely to the N-S trending coastline, the beach sediments were reworked and transported southward or northward mainly by longshore currents, which likely acts as a major control mechanism regarding alongshore topographic change with respect to Udo Rhodolith Beach. In contrast to the topographic change, the subaerial volume of the beach overall increased after all storms except for Maysak. The volume increase was attributed to the enhanced transport of onshore sediment under the combined effect of storm-induced long periodic waves and a strong residual component of the near-bottom current. In the Maysak event, the raised sea level during the spring tide probably enhanced the backshore erosion by storm waves, eventually causing sediment loss to the inland area.