• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.147-159
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• 2013

This study aims at developing and producing the creative design of a lingerie look after reviewing the aesthetic value about lingerie look featured in John Galliano's works. As for the research method, the selection process from the works was followed together with literature review for empirical analysis over lingerie looks, where 2,764 pieces in total were reviewed from Galliano's Pret-a-Porter collections covering from 2001S/S until 2010F/W and Christian Dior's Haute Couture and Pret-a-Porter collections that he is in charge of as head designer and 291 pieces were finally singled out that show the lingerie look image well. Then, the formative expression was examined about those looks and the characteristics were induced from them. Formativeness expressed in Galliano's lingerie look, in term of lingerie style, was categorized as erotic, retro, and deconstructive. The glittering and smooth material like silk and satin, and the visible material like lace and chiffon were mainly used for material rather than foreign material. By doing so, the romantic and erotic image was highlighted. In the production method, it was grouped into transposition of wear, direct and indirect exposition, and deconstructive way. These aesthetic characteristics introduced by formative expression appeared in the form of eroticism, play, and deconstructiveness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.320-333
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to find out differences of visual evaluation according to perceiver's gender, clothing silhouette, and body exposure of the lingerie look. Subjects were 246 college males and females in Seoul. The visual evaluation of the lingerie look was divided into four image dimensions: elegance, individuality, fascination, and activity. Silhouette had significant influences on the perception of elegance and activity. The hourglass silhouettes were evaluated more elegant and active than the tubular silhouettes. The body exposure had significant influences on the evaluation of elegance, individuality, fascination, and activity. The shoulder and the back exposure were estimated high in fascination, the breast exposure low in elegance, and the waist exposure high in individuality and activity. Individuality, fascination, and activity had interaction effects by perceiver's gender and body exposure. Males estimated the waist exposure to be more fascinating than females, and females estimated the breast exposure to be less active than males. There were significant interaction effects in evaluating the 4 image dimensions according to the silhouette and body exposure. The shoulder and the leg exposure of the hourglass silhouettes were estimated more elegant than those of the tubular silhouettes. Dimensions of clothing image which influenced on preference of lingerie look were different between males and females.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.115-123
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• 2001

The crossover in fashion refers to the coordination of different items, each with a different atmosphere. In a broad sense, it is the mutual exchange across the existing areas, that is, the creation of a new style by disparate and opposite elements coexisting in a look. This paper studies typical features of the crossover shown in modern fashion based on sub-culture by examining the concept and formation factors of the crossover through social aspects rather than particular art modes to predict the current fashion and suggest a new direction. Crossover fashion appeared in social and cultural environments, has four characteristics : the visual discordance of sexes, the appearance of the lingerie look, the mixture of folk style, and the appearance of the reactionary mode. The crossover, appeared in sub-cultures and diffused into the public, may be considered the creation of a new sense of beauty and a possibility for the future. It is expected to keep expanding ifs range in fashion, since it is an expression of human will to restore liberal sensibility not confined to formality.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.80-98
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to examine what consumers virtyally thought about deconstructional method used in fashion and its cloths. For attaining the purpose, earlier studies were reviewed to see what kind of deconstructional methods were used in fashion and its cloth, and questionnaire survey was carried out based on the result. 10 kinds of deconstructional method were surveyed : indeterminate form, lingerie look, layering, unsymmetrical form, seethrough cloth, slash or making a hole, fray, padded cloth, patchworked cloth, and wrinkled cloth. There appeared 6 kinds of image for deconstructional fashion, esthetics, womanliness, youth, elegance, uniqueness, and fashionability. Consumers considered most deconstructional fashion to be unique but unique but lack elegance. However, they didn\`t feel indeterminate form, fray or padded cloth was unique, and one notable thing was that they had an impression wrinkled cloth was graceful. The design assessed to be generally esthetic was lingerie look, laying, seethrough cloth and wrinkled cloth. Those who were older set more esthetic value on layering, seethrough cloth, fray, padded cloth and wrinkled cloth. On the contrary, they didn\`t have a good impression from slash, making a hole or patchworked cloth. As a result of investigating the subjects\` willingness to wear deconstructional design, there was deconstructional design which they might possibly put on, and those who were older found more difficulties in wearing ir. Toward indeterminate and layering fashion, younger people whose age was ranged from 18 to 22 or from 18 to 22 or from 23 to 27 showed particularly better response. Married woman wanted to wear wrinkled cloth, and considered it possible to put on seethrough design more than unmarried women. Rather, younger people were more unwilling to wear seethrough design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.10
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• pp.1161-1174
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• 2011

An approach method of the semiotics theory is analyzing fashion: the look is that a sign represents one character and the image is interpreted as the destination of the changes. The fashion image interpretation by semiotics is possible because the fashion phenomenon by society has been accumulated in their abbreviation code. It is not possible to produce contradictions of the human imagination coined solution. The myth relieved to people, allowanced a meaning in the world and explained it have been unable to explain and protect us. Today's role of the world myth becomes the star's future. Public resting star's fashion image analysis promote that we understand the inherent desire. Madonna probably is one of the world's most famous women. To Create Madonna's own mythology staged image in various attire reveals symbolism. In this study, Madonna's fashion images, the myth 8 analysis of semiotics represent publicity. Madonna's album jacket 8 analysis of the myth. The fit and the relationship between the star and myths closely is obvious. The Madonna fashion image investigate that so forth implied myth into duality of feminine, upset of gender roles, upset of sexual roles, object of worship. In addition to the creation of these myths are based on sensuality heterosexual fashion images, body-conscious look, lingerie look, Androgynous Look, Dominatrix Look in the fashion style of the images, fashion items made to body suit, bra top, black panties, black boots, long gloves, pink, red, gold, satin, and leather; the addition, there are exaggerated props and accessories. These use such as the human body building wave blond hair. This study through Madonna's fashion image, semiotics analysis is acquainted with suitable means of myth.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.13-29
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• 2013

The purpose of this study was to analyze eroticism shown in the fashion of Lady Gaga's music video. This study methods taken theoretical consideration and then was classified eroticism based on previous studies and was analyzed costumes from Lady Gaga's music video. The results of this study were as follows: Avant-garde style exaggerates shoulders, hips, a hat or uses metal and glossy material, tape, leather and it was expressed into emphasizing or baldly exposing breast. Primitive style was expressed in ethnic style and animal patterns, lingerie look with drastic, bald exposing fashion. Romantic style was expressed using rococo style costume, frill, pleats, decoration and was produces eroticism with see-through look or costume fitting to the body. Sportive style expresses a healthier and erotic image using tight costume in yellow, blue and black while exposing belly and legs. Janus-faced style was expressed by dressing up like a man or using the method of attachment and exposure in clergy's costume. Humorous style was expressed by emphasizing parts of body or costume itself. As examined in the above, Lady Gaga was expressed various eroticism images in her music video and is builds her own sexually appealing.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.3
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• pp.447-457
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• 2003

The shape of womens breast is the most important part of body silhouette. For the high-fitted clothes, in particular, more refined brassiere effective enough to show the beautiful line of female breast is asked. This study focuses on comparing the difference of the two different textiles of brassiere as to their effectiveness as a brassiere. The Stockman Lingerie Mannequin made by England is used for the draping method for the brassiere pattern. Two different brassieres of stretchable and unstretchable(cotton) textiles respectively were made out of this pattern, and the difference of effectiveness wearing the two brassieres was compared. 30 females ranging in the ages of 19 through 24, and whose size is 75A were selected as the test group who are to wear them. The result of each measurement proves that the cotton brassiere is more effective than the stretchable brassiere as a whole considering center concentration of breast, projection of breast, and bust up function. The result of the test on satisfaction of wearing brassiere was also in favor of cotton brassiere as to projection effect, bust up effect, making a good shape of bust. For the cup, in particular, unstretchable textile is more effective for making a breast look better.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2009

As foundation wear, underwear is the starting point where a woman shapes her figure and constructs a female identity. In the late twentieth century, the use of underwear as outerwear was extensively adapted, so underwear as outerwear is the latest thing today. Based on literature review, this study aimed to examine how underwear was adopted for use as outerwear extensively in the late twentieth century. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, originally there was no border between underwear and outerwear at the start. With the change of female social and political status, the function of underwear and its design has been changed diversely. Also, its revealing and decoration has been linked with female sexual attraction. Second, by some precursor fashion designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier, underwear was redefined as outerwear with erotic but powerful meaning in the Twentieth century. Their idea had an enormous influence on contemporary fashion culture, and consequently has become popularized like lingerie look today. Third, the change of female social status led a big change in view on the female sexuality and the ideas of femininity in fashion culture in the Twentieth century. Dressed by Gaultier, Madonna's performance wearing corset costume played a role in redefining contemporary femininity in relation to sexuality and power, even though it is still under the controversy.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.72-86
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• 2008

This research focused on determining the brassiere preference index and wearing status of chinese ladies in their 20's living in the Shanghai region of China, to help Korean lingerie companies in their development of bras to successfully advance into the Chinese lingerie market. The main research tool of this research was various different surveys, and the results of the surveys were evaluated using the SPSS 12.0 for Window program. The results of the survey can be summarized as: 1) consciousness and satisfaction level of the body. The satisfaction level of the brest was proportionate to the size of the brassiere, thus, people showed higher level of satisfaction for cone-shaped, semi-circular shaped, prominent-shaped(exposing), lifted-shaped brest over flat-shaped brest. Concerning the relationship between the shape of the brest and the age of the customers, people under 22 years of age preferred flat-shaped, and those between 23-24 years of age preferring exposing and lifted brest, thus as females mature and get older, the size of their brest increases, thus having preference on more circular and lifted-shaped brest and bras. 2) Status of bra wearing in China When we look at the size of the bra in relation to the shape of the brest, those classified as having 'flat-shaped' brest showed a high proportion of A-cups, ranging from 75A, 70A and 80A, where as those of 'cone-shaped' brest represented high ration of B-cups, ranging from 75B, 75A and 80B. Majority of those classified as having 'semi-circular shaped' and 'prominent-shaped(exposing)' brest showed a high ration in the size 80 range. And vast majority of those classified into the 'lifted-shaped' brest group, were reported of having C-cup size bras. 3) Status of Bra Purchasing As people mature, the main reason behind choosing a bra was the actual design of the bra, where they emphasized the importance of aesthetic values. People classified as having 'flat-shaped' and 'cone-shaped' brest emphasized the importance of design and beauty, while those having 'semi-circular shaped,' 'prominent-shaped(exposing),' and 'liftedshaped' brest groups emphasized the importance of hygiene and the material(fabric) of the bra. This shows that when people have relatively smaller brest, they emphasize the importance of external appearance whereas when the size of the brest increases, they pay more attention to the function of the bra rather than the external appearance.