• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.4
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• pp.632-656
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• 2024

This study presents a pattern drafting method for designing a slim-fit blouse for women in their twenties with a D cup bra size and various bust sizes within the standard body type range using the 3D virtual clothing system. Three participants were scanned using a body scanner, and three similar princess blouse patterns were selected. A total of nine virtual blouses were produced, with three sets made for each participant. In the initial evaluations, Pattern C received the highest score. The second pattern was designed by mending the flaws in Pattern C. However, in the eases of the front and back busts, back width and back waist were still insufficient and sleeve length was short. In the similarity evaluation between virtual and real blouses, the overall appearance was similar. Most of the corrected elements received significantly higher ratings in the third real blouse. However, the ease of the rear bust area was slightly large. In general, when drafting blouse patterns for women with large bust sizes, it is essential to increase the ease in the front bust, reduce the ease in the back bust, enlarge the waist dart, and decrease the armhole depth.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.26-43
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• 2023

This study sought to typify and characterize the upper body shape of women with large breasts by classifying only Korean adult women aged 20-69 years whose difference dimension between bust and underbust circumference was 12.5 cm or greater. This study attempted to provide necessary information for the development of upper body clothing for women with large busts. Upper body horizontal, upper body height, shoulder size, upper body length, and shoulder slop factor were extracted to constitute upper body shapes of women with large busts. Upper body shapes of women with large busts were classified into four types: low obese upper body tall body type, high normal upper body short body type, drooping shoulders slender upper body tall body type, and broad shoulders slender upper body short body type. Upper body proportions of women with and without large busts were analyzed as follows. Women with large breasts had narrower shoulder width compared to bust width and waist width. Their underbust and waist circumferences were larger than their bust circumferences. For the development of tops for women with large busts, bodice pattern development was required, taking into account shoulder width, chest, and upper body length. Future studies should focus on angles of busts in more detail. Research should be conducted on the development of bodice by upper body type of women with large busts analyzed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.279-288
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• 1998

The purpose of this paper was to find out obese women's respective characteristics of torso body shape. The subjects were 132 obese women for direct measurement and were 101 obese women for indirect measurement, age of 20~59. The criterial of obesity base on Rohrer index($\geq$1.6) and busts girth ($\leq$90). The results were as follows : 1) In comparison with the average body shapes in common body types, in 30's was bigger in the bust and waist girth than the different age groups. 2) According to the difference in the basic girth(bust and waist girth, hip and bust girth, hip and waist girth) the body types were classified 2 groups. Types 1 was large bust and slightly curved from waist to hip. Type 2 was large hip and larger in the curve from waist to hip than type 1.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.65-84
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to analyze the relation between the beauty of human body and the fashion illustration in each period And I attained my object through the investigation of features and changes of illustration which is given a vivid description of the features and development of ideal humam body beauty. By various methods I studied this subject. Frist I refered to sundry records Secondly I investiated the fashion illustrations which are included in Vogue. On the basis of this data I grasped the ideal types of human body beauty which is founded during the social change in each 10 years. And I analyzed the relation be-tween the ideal type and fashion illustration which show the change of fashion. The summary of result is as follows. 1. In the early part of the 20th century the beauty of human body is represented with the figure of large-sized beauty which emphasize shoulder and bust. And fashion ikllustration show 9 life-size broad shoulder full bust lim waist and hourglass silhouette. 2, In the 1910s the swell of strength vanishes gradually and shoulder and sleeve are straight type. And fashion illustration show 7 life-size high waist line. And that is tublar sil-houette of high waist and streamline shape in which bust and hip are not emphasized. 3. In the 1920s the ideal type of human body beauty is straight type which shows flat bust and unexaggerate hip. And fashion illus-tration is about 8 life-size tublar silhouette of low waist and lunger and slimmer and young style in which bust and hip are not emph-asized. 4. In the 1930s the ideal is womamly slim and long style. Fashion illustration is about 8 life-size and slim & long silhouette in which waist line is emphasized and bust and hip line come out. 5. In the 1940s the ideal type is womamly style which has narrow shoulder rich bast and slim waist. And fashion illustration is about 7 life-size and hourglass silhouette which has unartificial shoulder slim waist and empha-sized bust. 6. In the 1950s the ideal type is that of ro-bust health which emphasize build and muscu-lar system. And fashion illustration is 8.5 life-size and show full bust and made waist slimmer. That is sheath silhouette. 7. In the child who has full face with large eyeball slender and long leg: narrow and immatured body comparatively big head. And fashion illus-tration is 7 life-size and show slim and long neck flat bust long and slim limbs and big head. That is H type silhouette. 8. In the 1970s the ideal type is high stat-ure flat breast small hip and wide shoulders. And fashion illustration is wide shoulders and slim waist as 11 life-size and straight sil-houete. 9. In the 1980s the ideal type is extremely emphasized breadth of shoulder because healthy body and muscle are recognized as the symbol of ideal attractiveness. And fashion il-lustration is about 8.5 life-size and show mus-cular slim type that is slim silhouette. 10 At the present time the ideal type is slim and tall type which is empasized healthy beauty. And fashion illustration is 12 life-size which has healthy body and skin So that is slim and long type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.117-130
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• 2000

The purpose of this thesis is to offer basic data for clothing design which is intended to apply appropriate shape and capacity to clothes. The following are the analyzed results of an investigation which was conducted to characterize the upper half of the female body of 193 women whose ages are 18 to 25, taking part in this investigation. According to the results of analyzing young women's bust, I came to find a large individual difference of the wide varying factor numbers at the items of the side feature, the body stance, and the dart quantity. For the analysis of the female's upper body, 11 factors are used. The are as follows: Factor 1. width of the bust Factor 2. height of the bust and length of the arm Factor 3. side thickness of the bust and the upside type Factor 4. length of the bust on the front Factor 5. length of the bust on the back Factor 6. salient ratio of the breast Factor 7. width of the neck. the armhole, and measurement of the droop Factor 8. length of the shoulder Factor 9. flat ratio of the bust Factor 10. inclination of the shoulder factor 11. form of the back The shape of young women's upper bodies can be divided into four groups. The character ization of each group are as follows : Group 1 . 28.5% of the women who take part in this investigation belong to Group 1 These women have the shortest body, with a longer length of the front than the back and more thickness on the front than the back. Group 2. 21.1% of the women who take part in this investigation belong to this group. They show a longer length of the back and more thickness of the back than the front. In addition, this group is bent forward. Group 3. This group is the mast common type, showing the shortest and thickest character. 37.8% of the women who take part in this investigation have this bust character Group 4. 12.4% of the women belong to Group 4. They possess the highest and fattest character, skewing smaller necks, armholes, and waists than the other groups. This group also shows the drooping shoulders.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.6
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• pp.145-159
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to classify body type for ready-to-wear sizes. The subjects were 300 women ages of 18-24. they were measured direct anthropometry. The body types for sizing system were divided by Rohrer Index. KS drop value and ISO drop value. The results of this study were as follows. 1. By adapting the Rohrer Index. we classify 3 types from anthropometric measurements. The thin type covered 39.3%, the standard type 51.0% and the obesity type 18.7%. The characteristics of clusters were as follows. Thin type was characterized by tall. slender type and slim. The standard type was characterized by middle sized. The obesity type was characterized by short. fat type. and large bust. 2. By adapting the KS system drop value. we classify 3 types from anthropometric measurements. The H type(drop 0) covered 25.6%. the N type(drop 6) 65.2% and the A type(drop 12) 9.2%. Type H was slightly tall large bust. and curved from waist to hip. Type A was slightly thin. large hip and smaller bust than type N. Principal factor components were bust size. The height could be divided into three groups. The Petite(l50cm) covered 5.5%. the Regular(l60cm) 64.7% and the Tall(l70cm) 29.8%. Through the crosstab of height and body type. we extracted regular height by N type 46.2% the largest cell. The body type was the higher order of N type. H type and A type. The tall was the higher order of Regular. Tall and Petite. 3. By adapting the ISO system drop value. we classify 3 types from anthropometric measurements. The H type(drop 0) covered 15.0%. the M type(drop 6) 41.0% and the A type(drop 12) 44.0%. Type H was slightly short. slightly fat and large bust. Type A was slightly tall. slight thin than type M. The height could be divided into three groups. We adjust the height section after allow for height distribution. The Short(152cm) covered 12.8%. the Regular(160cm) 66.9% and the Long(168cm) 20.3%. Through the crosstab of height and body type, we extracted regular height by M type 29.3% the largest cell. The body type was the higher order of M type, A type and H type. The tall was the higher order of Regular, Long and short.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1193-1202
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• 1996

This study investigates and analyzes the amount and shape of the front waist dart of the bodice and investigates the dart division method by bust size. Measurements at 5 arm positions were taken from 15 subjects. Clothing tests were given to 6 of the subjects. The conclusions were as follows: 1) Front Body surface changes were occurred around armpit and they were caused by the wrinkles of the armpit 2) The curved dart line was more appropriate for use with C cup, the large bust body, than the linear line. The changes of the dart amount at arm movements had different types by bust size. 3) Patterns for A & C cup body were adequate to divide the dart amount by 3 darts such as under the B.P., under the anterior armpit and side line, or to aggregate to 1 dart under the B.P. For the B cup body, however, the suitable pattern to use was the total dart amount divided by 1~2 darts and decreasing the waist line at the side line should be avoided.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.25-39
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• 2009

This research attempts to analyze the physical characteristics of middle school girls and compare the product sizes and patterns of school uniform blouses by brand. And wearing tests were performed regarding the appearance of blouse by bland. The results are follows. The standard deviation for bust circumference and waist circumference of middle school girls measured in 2004 were showed extremely large difference among individuals compared to the previous results. While waist back length reached adult size by $2^{nd}$ grade high school, bishoulder length reached adult size by $2^{nd}$ grade middle school. And girls after $2^{nd}$ grade middle school had their depth and breadth of bust, underbust circumference and bust circumference growing proportionally. These results need to be reflected in producing a pattern drafting for middle schoolers. By comparing wearing test results on appearance, it was shown that in terms of ease of bust circumference, the expert group evaluated brand with less ease as not having adequate ease compared to brand, while the middle schooler group evaluated as having sufficient ease. The front silhouette also showed same results. This reflects the preference for appearance by the middle schooler group, which is a factor to be considered during pattern drafting of school uniform blouse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.995-1007
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine on breast shapes of elderly women and provide fundamental data for developing brassiere. Numerous anthropometric measurements and other related data from 398 subjects were analyzed by various statistical methods such as ANOVA, Correlation analysis, Factor analysis and Cluster analysis. 1. Analysis of Breast Measurements The subjects were categorized into three groups(Group I; aged 55 to 64, Group II; aged 65 to 74, Group III; aged more than 75). 1) The results of the comparative analysis of anthropometric data from three groups show that by getting older: - $\circled1$ Breast lengths, widths, heights and bust girths are decreased significantly $\circled2$ Various length measurements related to the drooping degree of breast are increased $\circled3$ Some measurements related to the volume of breast are decreased. 2) The results of the correlation analysis among measurement show that there are no directs linear relationships between under bust girth and bust drooping. Further it turned out that the cup size could be used as a factor explaining the volume of breast due to large subject variation, Thus it is required to have more specific information about the breast volume. 2. Analysis of Breast Shapes 1) From 17 measurements, 5 factor were selected as key factors for the factor analysis of breast analysis of breast shapes. The 5 factors are: $\circled1$ Drooping degree of breast $\circled2$ slope between breast and chest, width of bust point $\circled3$ Contours and prominence of breast at the point of front and side $\circled4$ Breast volume $\circled5$ Breast width. 2) We categorized the breast shapes into three types by Cluster analysis. Type 1 is the most common breast shape in elderly women. $\circled1$ Type L: Not too droopy and large breast $\circled2$ Type 2: A little droopy and small breast $\circled3$ Type 3; Very droopy and wide breast

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.280-291
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• 2013

This paper analyzes desirable breast types using measurements from 31 selected female subjects based on the ratio of breast in works of art and to design a brassiere cup design according to the breast type of 182 female subjects in their 20s. The subjects selected for this paper are somewhat larger than a previous study on aesthetically perfect breasts of foreigners according to chest breadth, center neck point to breast point, breast circumference, and breast volume. However, the aesthetic breasts of foreigners are larger than the subjects selected for this study according to chest depth, under-bust circumference, and bust point to bust point. Comparing various breasts types and aesthetic breasts, padding is necessary to complement the form of flat breasts to increase the volume and diameter. Brassiere cups for cone-shaped breasts should be designed to increase breast volume through an increase in nipple height. Hemisphere breasts should be designed to increase the overall volume-leaving diameter. Protrusion breasts should enhance the functions of aggregating and supporting without any increase or decrease of the breast volume. Drooping breasts require the ability to support a large volume to stabilize the breast. Subjects were selected depending on the ratio of breast silhouette as works of art and who have large breasts in disproportional to a slender trunk. Three items, the circumferential length of breast, height of the nipple, and the depth of inner breast using the anthropomorphic measurements of 182 subjects were measured through regression equations for breast volume. Breast volume = -394.86 + 27.52 ${\times}$ (the circumferential length of breast) + 18.73 ${\times}$ (height of the nipple) + 12.85 ${\times}$ (the depth of inner breast). Regression equations to extract the aesthetic breast volume in measurements irrelevant to breasts using the anthropomorphic measurements of 31 subjects were as follows. Aesthetic breast volume = -611.30 + 17.67 ${\times}$ (bust circumference) -24.29 ${\times}$ (under-bust circumference) + 16.31 ${\times}$ (neck point to breast point to waistline) + 22.83 ${\times}$ (bust breadth) + 12.22 ${\times}$ (waist depth) -8.34 ${\times}$ (interscye- front). This prediction equation is useful to develop a breast type brassiere pattern, complement breast enhancement surgery, or minimize the effect a mastectomy.