• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.163-173
• /
• 2011

The objective of this study is to examine the current status of manufacturing formal knit jackets for middle-aged women. Fifteen manufacturers specializing in formal knitwear brands were chosen as the study subjects, and interviews and questionnaires were used with patterners and designers. The questionnaire was composed of 27 items and began with general questions, such as how the jackets were manufactured. Specific questions, such as materials and sewing method, were also considered further on. The results are as follows: First, as for the structure of the knit jacket manufacturer, seven out of fifteen manufacturers directly manufactured knit jackets in their own factory, while the manufacturing was comprised of 20% woven jackets and 80% knit jackets for all manufactures. Second, as for the type of yarn mostly used in knitting the fabric for the jackets, satin yarn and wool were used mostly for F/W with Plain and Half Milano rib stitches as the type of knit with a gauge of 12G and 7G. Third, as for the margin between the product size of the target brand and the size of the body at the time of designing a knit jacket pattern, the investigation of the actual state of manufacturing showed that the margin at the bust was B+4.8cm, the waist was W+6.9cm, and the hip girth was H+5cm. Therefore, the bust and hip girth of the knit jackets were designed to be smaller than those of the bust and hip girth lines of non-flexible woven jackets. On the contrary, the waist measurement of non-flexible woven jacket was designed to be smaller than the knit jacket. It was found that the side line of the knit jacket was expressed with greater give as compared to that of the non-flexible woven jacket.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.10 no.2
• /
• pp.91-103
• /
• 2008

Because of comfortable texture and easy treatment, more and more knit products has been required for leisure such as sports, traveling, hobbies, and various social activities. Therefore, the demand of knit is gradually increasing in the clothing industry. There are, however, several issues, which require solutions, and we must develop higher value-added products, which differentiate from those of developing countries allowing us to compete and win in the world market. The patterns on porcelain of underglaze iron, which had been popular from late-l5th century to mid-16th century, are diverse, unique, and traditional--so valuable patterns of our own. The computer hitting machine enables the designer to conceive new designs and produce samples of fabrics within a few minutes, which allows us to save time for mass production. Therefore, it is an essential tool for the knitting industry. After collecting, analyzing, and choosing various patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron, This study reflects the actual experience of hitting the fabrics with the patterns through the computer knitting machine which is also used to produce patterns after designing the new patterns through Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop, which has several merits. This article compares and analyzes them for production, which uses the patterns that has been designed from the patterns on porcelains of underglaze iron.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.46 no.2
• /
• pp.127-135
• /
• 2008

The study purpose was to increase Han-bok's convenience by changing materials while maintaining keep the traditional Han-bok style. For this purpose we surveyed actual Han-Bok wearers about the inconveniences of its form and design by combining knit with Han-bok. On the basis of this survey, we present a practical design for use in daily fife. Responding to the question about Jeo-Go-Ri(jacket), most respondents preferred a Han-bok which stressed elasticity by utilizing knit on Jeo-Go-Ri's front and back body line(JD1, JD4). For the question about ann holes, most respondents liked a design which substituted knit materials for Sam-hoi-jang(colorful strips) to ensure ease of use and shorten both the width and length of the breast-tie(JD2, JD3). For the sleeve edge, they preferred a design which solved the difficulties of rolling up the sleeve when working ($JD2{\sim}JD5$). Regarding the most inconvenient aspect of wearing Chi-mas(skirts), the respondents indicated tightening of the breast and an uncomfortable feeling due to the skirt length. This suggested that the waist of the vest should be lengthened to avoid the feeling of pressure(CD2, CD5). Regarding changes to the skirt shape the respondents preferred buttons and hooks rather than using skirt strings(CD4, CD5).

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.22 no.5
• /
• pp.41-51
• /
• 2018

Cable knitting, one of the most representative structures of knitwear has been applied to a number of knit items in a variety of expressions every season. The purpose of this study is to analyze the various types of expressions applied with cable knitting techniques to make the necessary data for planning cable knit designs. The types of cable knitting were devide into two categories which are based on the cable knitting pattern and structure. Based on the pattern, firstly, formal type is a reproduction of traditional Aran knit style and is usually applied to a practical and comfortable timeless knit product. Secondly, informal type is irregular applied to patterns and directions to highlight the dynamics of cable patterns. Thirdly, contrasting type emphasizes the cable pattern by contrasting the color of the part of the cable pattern. Fourthly, figurative type is the expression of the conceptual motifs and using the cable knit pattern itself as motif. Based on the structure, firstly, open type is to emphasize patterns and spaces by utilizing open spaces created by the intersection of cabling stitches. Secondly, decorative type is to enhance the ornamental effect of cable knitting by various methods and other subsidiary materials. Thirdly, avant-garde type is applied in various ways with exaggerated volumes or textures using the three-dimensional effects of cable knitting. Through this study, we look forward to the possibility of expressing the unique aesthetic characteristics of each of the various knitting techniques.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.562-570
• /
• 2006

Knit industry requires versatile knit designers who have to control whole process such as material select, color, type of machine, technique, structure and shape. In other words, knit designers urgently need to interplay between technology and design aesthetics. It becomes essential to learn and master basic principles of knitting in order to design and develop effectively for innovative knitwear design. The main purpose of this study is to show fresh methodology through examining the various applications of 'Stitch transfer knitting structure' used in women's knitwear design development. Stitch transfer knitting structure is one of the most popular techniques among various basic knitting methods. Eight knitwears were designed and produced with various types of formative applications which differ from existent stitch transfer knitwears of flat and simple style in the market. These are produced by computer knitting machine 'Shima Seiki 122S' and programmed by 'Knit CAD' software. Among various basic stitch transfer pattern, 'Leaf' pattern is selected as a most effective example for this study. This fabric applied to collar, sleeves, body pattern and accessories as formative decoration. It is expected that this study of methodology helps to get open mind and to indicate possibility to develop and show creative and innovative knitwear and knitted textile design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.20 no.3
• /
• pp.79-98
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to analyze and document special design elements of the knit material, such as yarn, stitch, and gauge used in various types of knit in a collection of men's fashion, and to provide basic data for database design. The analysis covers 37 brand collections of men's clothing, used to collect a total of 1,954 men's knitwear photographs, and others were collected from 12 collections from F/W to 2017 S/S collection through www.vogue.com. The results of the analysis of the knit design elements of the contemporary men's collection since 2011 are as follows. First, there were 1,513 straight yarn (77%) and 440 decorative yarn (23%) types of yarn. There were many different kinds of decorative yarn, such as two tone and melange effect in three colors, and the emergence of hairy yarn, like mohair and angora shannell, which was much common in low gauge's knitwear designs. Second, the frequency was high with low and middle gauges. thin and light high-gauges were often found in S/S collections, but there were also thick types of yarn in low-gauge knitwear. Third, 794 (40.6%) items used basic stitches such as plain stitch, which was the most utilized. The plain stitch, which is the most basic of the knit stitches, appears to be in high demand for its use, along with the use of various decorators. The development of printing and dyeing technologies has led to many designs that utilize the printer for the plain stitch. 326 (16.7 %), of colored jacard stitch, and of 175 (0.9 %) of intasia stitch.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.12 no.4
• /
• pp.137-147
• /
• 2010

This study set out to make experimental clothes by giving variations to the connecting part of a seamless sweater, propose designs and composition approaches to improve the wearing sensation and satisfaction with appearance through wearing trials, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to follow-up study on seamless knit and the growth of seamless knit in the Korean knit industry. The connecting part is the biggest characteristic and the most important part in seamless knitwear and affect the functionality and fitness of the clothes and the appearance of the armhole. The investigator thus made five different pieces of experimental clothes according to the composition methods for connecting part and put them to the test by a group of experts for appearance assessment. The assessment results were analyzed through Analysis of variance(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results, experimental clothes C and E received the highest evaluation in almost every assessment item, whereas experimental clothes A did the lowest appearance evaluation.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.18 no.6
• /
• pp.1274-1290
• /
• 2010

This study analyzed the design elements and fashion images of women's knitwear in collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York between 2003 and 2008, and examined knitwear trends in an effort to verify whether knitwear trends are repeated in certain cycles, whether they show complicated patterns in cycles and yet occur in quasi cycles, or whether they occur non-periodically in complicated forms of chaotic cycles. Trend cycle analysis results are deemed to identify the time series attribute of knit fashions. It also sought to categorize the attribute of various factors influencing knitwear trends with a view to determining relevancy between design elements, and to present the direction of predicting knitwear fashion trends and the progression of short-term knitwear trends. This study reached the following conclusion. According to design elements or fashion images, knitwear fashion trends occur in cycles, quasi cycles, non-periodical cycles. These cyclic characteristics can be used as scientific data for planning knitwear products. The study confirmed close relevancy between fashion images and fashion elements. It identified close relevancy between designs with similar fashion elements and images through coordinates by year and season, and it is possible to make short-term prediction of trend direction through the flow of coordinates. Time series data were insufficient, thereby making it difficult to perfectly verify chaos indices and giving limitations to this study. A study with more time series data will produce a more effective method of predicting and using knitwear fashion trends.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.20 no.4
• /
• pp.124-137
• /
• 2020

The need for customized products has also been increasing as more active consumers consume according to their values in recent years. Accordingly, fashion customizing web is becoming popular, but because custom freedom is low, we want to increase custom freedom by applying knitwear. To this end, a theoretical review was conducted through prior research and literature research on customization, knit design, and GUI, and based on this, a case analysis was conducted focusing on knit-making programs and fashion customizing web. Knit designs have more considerations than other fashion design process, resulting in more UIs, so users should use visual elements that are easily recognizable. Therefore, a draft assessment item was derived based on the preceding survey and three Delphi surveys were conducted on experts based on the draft. Each item was modified and deleted during the Delphi research process to produce the Custom Knitware Web GUI Design Guide. Through this study, we were able to identify the need for intuitive understanding and application of knit custom functions in GUI design of custom knitwear web. Through this research, it is expected that this data will be used to improve the usability of custom knitwear websites and to refer to knit design fields that utilize knit machines.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.95-103
• /
• 2008

From the research which it sees the knit which is the competitive power it will be able to be sufficient the craving of the consumers who are changing be light from the which provides the fundamental data for production the F/W season knit wear it tried to know the age unit preference moral difference of item. The conclusion of the research which it the same. From all age unit pullover possession at 5 working for living, the jacket the ratio of the person whom it does not have entirely appeared most highly. The age unit knit wear twenties meaning item preference from, thirties and forties appeared with the item which pullover prefers most, fifties selected a cardigan case, an ensemble and the jacket and it prefers with the fact that. It appeared with the style which it prefers most from case P1, P2 all twenties of pullover, the cardigan proposal case appeared with the style which it prefers most from C1, C2 all fifties. From the jacket it appeared with the style which the J1 prefers from fifties-forties. Each age especially the F/W season knit wear the result which examines the wearing objective against, twenties become popular, thirties expression of individuality, forties convenient of activity, fifties for the convenient of activity complement of activity the knit wear with the fact that it wears.