• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.838-843
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• 2015

In this study, a cotton knit was dyed with elm bark extract; subsequently, the dyed fabric was measured according to the types of mordants and the preprocessing cationizers used. Additionally, antibiosis against super bacteria was examined. The results follow. First, the color of the dyed cotton knit appeared reddish and yellowish for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants. When preprocessing with a cationizer was conducted, the dyeing properties were the best. Second. even when mordants were not used for dyeing, color fastness after washing, sweating, and rubbing was generally good Grade 4 and 5. Color fastness after exposure to sunlight was the best Grade 4 for fabric prepared with ferrous sulfate as the mordant. Third. as for antimicrobial properties, or resistance to super bacteria, the growth of bacteria was suppressed in a meaningful way for fabrics treated with non-mordants and mordants, compared to the control group fabric. The dyeing methods with the most powerful antimicrobial effects were dyeing after preprocessing with a cationizer and preparing fabric with copper sulfate as the mordant. The results stated above show that in case of dyeing with elm bark extract, preprocessing of the cotton knit with a cationizer and dying with copper mordant displayed high levels of antimicrobial properties that were useful for resisting super bacteria. Of these the dyeing properties were the best when preprocessing with a cationizer.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.17-25
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• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.844-854
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• 2016

In order to understand the current state of production and pattern design of circular knitted jackets, this study selected 11 female clothing brands based from the "2012/2013 Korea Fashion Brand Yearbook" and interviewed the staff in charge of patterns at the companies. Polyester and polyurethane were found to be synthesized and used for the outshell of circular knitted jackets, alternatively natural fabric cotton or wool were synthesized with rayon. As for the structure of circular knitted materials, Ponte Di Roma knitting structure (a modified form of a double knit) was most often used. Surveying the use pattern and the parts for padding cloth, six responded that they used elastic padding cloth. As for circular knitted jackets with inner lining, elastic padding cloth was attached to all parts (front, back, side panel, and collar - except for sleeves) of the basic bodice pattern. Eight responded that they did not use a basic pattern when designing a pattern, which exceeds the majority. All respondents answered yes to the question on if there is any difference in designing a pattern for a woven jacket and a circular knitted jacket. It was found that they designed a pattern that considered shrinkage and elongation, which are the features of circular knitted fabric. Shrinkage and elongation were the features of a fabric material most considered when designing patterns for a circular knitted jacket.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.1-17
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• 2005

The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.9_10
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• pp.1475-1486
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• 2007

This study aims to develop knitted ware design to meet desire to express diversity in the modern fashion design so that we designed knitted ware by applying african geometric pattern and color to suggest new knitted ware design. We collect data about african texture pattern through technical books, publications, internet, and preceding research and visit and investigate the African museum. We investigate knitted Jacquard texture through preceding research and collect sample and data which is insufficient in the data source. The conclusions in this study are summarized as follows: First, African textile pattern is formulated with animism based on their religious view of art for a basis and African regards nature like animal and plant as a motive and interprets nature in the so that they can create symbolized geometric features that constitute African texture pattern. Those patterns is composed of extremely geometric figures so that they we fit to apply for color jacquad knit design. Second, color knitted jacquad can be distinguished by knitting method and status of knitting as 7 kinds of techniques such as Nomal, Bird'eye, Floating, Tubular, Ladder's back, Blister, Transfer Jacquard, and as a result of preceding research and knitting texture directly, jacquard technique makes different texture under same condition like consistent spinning rate and same crochet hook. Third, Bird'eye Jacquard used generally to make knitted ware and Ladder's back Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard used to make knitted ware light are fit to apply them to 7GG and 12GG machines. We design a cloak as a outer garment, a coat shaped like one-piece dress and a coat with hood by using Tubular Jacquard which can make thick texture and design a jacket, a skirt and a one-piece dress by using Bird'eye Jacquard. we make a light and flimsy one-piece dress by using Ladder's back Jacquard. Fourth, we apply the contrast of $4{\sim}6$ color and line and the contrast of texture and raw material to jacquard in order to emphasize texture property and visual property.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1333-1342
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• 2008

This study intended to evaluate the visual sensibility of textiles of knitting simulation through the painting function of SDS-ONE, a computer knitting system, with the use of various fancy yarns for hand knitting. For this study, six kinds of fancy yarns with difference manufacturing style and form were selected: loop yarn, tamtam yarn, fur1 yarn, fur2 yarn, ladder yarn, and tape yarn. In order to create a computer knitting simulation, paint function of SDS-ONE was employed to scan the fancy yarns for hand knitting with a scanner. Then, after the registration of the yarns as data, the yarn was brought in for knitting simulation in plain stitch with 3 gauge. After that a survey was conducted involving 60 female experts in their twenties. Using SPSS 12.0, factor analysis, reliability, Pearson correlation coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and regression analysis were performed to analyze the collected data. First, according to the result of analyzing the visual sense factor, three factors of the 'inflexibleness/ruggedness sense', 'lightweight sense', and 'smoothness sense' was extracted. According to the result of analyzing the visual sensibility factor, three factors of the 'activity', 'grace', and 'purity' was extracted. Second, With regard to preference and purchase intention, the knitted fabric with tamtam yarn(H2) was preferred than the other samples, indicating that the respondents had intention to purchase it. As for word-of-mouth intention, H2 ranked the first place, implying the respondents had intention to recommend it to other people. Third, the examination of the use of products each knitting simulation knit found that sweater and muffler are the most appropriate knit products. And H2 was the most suitable sample for sweater and muffler products. This study tried to prove that knit textile can be visually evaluated through a computer knitting simulation without the actual knitting and then to provide accurate data to related companies or the academic circle.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.297-309
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• 2019

This study investigated EEG signal, subjective fragrance sensation, and the preference of differently colored cotton knit treated with Citrus unshiu oil containing microcapsules as well as examined their relationships for providing regression models on subjective fragrance preference. Color variables combining 2-level hue (Yellow and Green) and 3-level tone (strong, pale, and grayish) were applied by dyeing prior to microcapsule treatment. We invited 28 female college students aged 20's for EEG signal experiments and subjective fragrance sensations with fragrant knit by rubbing. EEG signals at $mid-{\alpha}$, $fast-{\alpha}$, and $low-{\beta}$ showed significant differences depending on color; Green had more relative power values and grayish tone did more at $low-{\beta}$. Even though subjective sensation showed no significant differences depending on color, some of them such as Fresh, Comfort, and Natural showed significant correlations with EEG signal at $low-{\beta}$, which means that the fragrance sensations of Citrus unshiu fragrance are concerned with attention and alertness for Koreans. Fragrance preference was regressed significantly using some EEG signals and subjective sensation. The results could be utilized to value up fragrant textiles by Citrus unshiu oil.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.24-30
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• 2021

In this study, PET containing 3% silver ion-exchange zeolite was mixed with cotton in a ratio of 6:4 to prepare a spun yarn to evaluate the tensile strength, absorption speed, absorption rate, antibacterial property, and the efficiency of deodorization. As a result, the following conclusions were obtained. First, it can be confirmed that silver ion exchange zeolite is evenly distributed inside and on the surface of the antimicrobial PET-SF through SEM. It was found that the tensile strength between the CVC sample mixed with silver ion zeolite PET and cotton and the normal cotton 100% sample was slightly lower in the CVC sample. Although the absorption speed and water absorption rate were measured to find out the moisture characteristics, it was confirmed that there was no significant difference. The contact angle was slightly larger in the antimicrobial CVC sample, but the time it took for the moisture to completely penetrate into the knit fabric was 0.85 seconds. In addition, it was found that out of the total mixing ratio, 40% of antibacterial PET was spun with regular cotton to produce yarn, which had an excellent bacteria reduction rate of 99.9% and a deodorization efficiency of 85%.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.57-71
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• 2010

This study is to understand the actual condition of design and material of peanut-shaped diaper with looking at the types and characteristics of baby cloth diapers and domestic peanut-shaped diapers registered in the Patent Office. Furthermore, it is to suggest the basic data for designing more functional and comfortable cloth diapers. Here are the research result on the actual condition of design and material of baby cloth diapers. Firstly, 11 cloth diapers registered in the Patent Office can be divided into panty-shaped and straight line-shaped diapers. There are 7 kinds of panty-shaped cloth diapers which satisfy both the convenience of a disposable diaper and sanitation of a cloth diaper, and 4 kinds of straight line-shaped cloth diapers that minimize the weaknesses of existing cloth diapers. Secondly, domestic peanut-shaped cloth diapers can be divided into peanut-shaped, inserted, winged, velcro-attached diapers. Among 23 kinds of peanut-shaped cloth diapers from 16 companies, there are 12 kinds of peanut-shaped diapers which consist of layers of cloth to make peanut shape. There are 6 kinds of inserted diapers that insert extra diapers or handkerchiefs in between two sheets of cloth diapers and 3 kinds of winged diapers designed to shorten drying time with sawing only one side of several layered sheets. Also, there are 2 kinds of velcro-attached diapers that are removable according to the amount of excreta. Commonly used materials are cotton woven of diamond jacquard and knit of diamond Hole Stitch or Plain Stitch. And for handing the edge of diaper, the method of wrapping up the edge with cotton woven or knit bias is used.