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Network Analysis using Cross-citation Frequency of Clothing & Textiles -Related Journals (의류 관련 학술지의 상호인용 빈도를 이용한 네트워크 분석)

  • Choi, Kyoung-Ho;Choi, Jin-Hee
    • Journal of Digital Convergence
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    • v.12 no.6
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    • pp.637-643
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this study was twofold: 1) to analyze the impact factor of clothing and textile-related journals by utilizing the average number of cross-citation that evaluates the relative importance of an academic journal and 2) to provide a list of journals with higher impact factor by analyzing closeness and betweenness among individual journals through graph networks. To fulfill this, a total of 10 clothing and textile-related journals, which are accredited by National Research Foundation of Korea, were analyzed. For analysis of the average number of cross-citation, the targeted research papers were limited to those published between 2008 and 2011 and they were derived from the Korea Citation Index. The software used for network analysis was R ver. 2.15. The results of the study were as follow: First, 'The Korean Society of Knit Design' was indicated as the highest rate of self-citation, followed by 'Journal of the Korean Fashion & Costume Design Association.' Secondly, the average impact power of clothing & textile-related journals was relatively lower (0.681) compared to that (1.00) of 23 journals under the human ecology discipline. 'Korean Journal of Human Ecology' was found to have impact factor of 1.24, which was higher than the average impact factor of human ecology-related journals. Lastly, together with 'Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles.'

A Study on the Image Perception and Preference of the Dress Shirts - Focusing on the city of Seoul, Daejon, and KyungkiDo - (드레스 셔츠의 이미지 분석(分析) - 서울, 대전, 경기지역(大田, 京畿地域)을 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Koo, In-Sook
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.10 no.4
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    • pp.1-15
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study was to analyze the image perception of dress shirts according to perceiver's residency and shirts style, and to investigate the shirts preference according to style of dress shirts, and to find out the men's aesthetics consciousness for shirts, and to analyze between the image perception and the usage of mass-media, for developing the possibility & strategy of the dress shirts market in men's wear market for the apparel marketers and manufactures. For this study, the data obtained from 321 respondents were analyzed by descriptive statistics, Pearson's simple correlation, ANOVA. The results from the study were as follow ; The 6 stimuli for image perception rated on 5 point Likert-type scales in the 12 features were evaluated by perceivers. By the best 3 features abstracted, shirts style concepts were decided such as, Basic style by the best 3 features of the first stimulus, and Soft style by the best 3 features of the second stimulus, and Sophisticate style by the best 3 features of the third stimulus, and Modern casual style by the best 3 features of the fourth stimulus, and Modern mannish style by the best 3 features of the fifth stimulus, and Trendy style by the best 3 features of the sixth stimulus. The modern casual style was estimated highly by respondents in Daejon. The respondents in Seoul prfered the basic style to other style. There were significant differences in evaluating between preferences of shirts style and pattern. Of the 82 respondents(26.8%) with the preference of bold london stripe, the 52 respondents estimated Modern casual style in bold london stripe. The fashion consciousness of the respondents in Seoul was estimated higher than in Daejon. But, the respondents in Daejon in the consciousness for the coordination knit cardigan and V zone was estimated higher than in Seoul. Also, the 31 respondents with the preference of Sophisticate style were the highest in fashion consciousness. The respondents estimated that the first important thing in buying dress shirts is 'Design(41.4%). and next is quality(17.8%). Results revealed that Daks ranked best brand (13.7%), and Renoma ranked best two brand (6,5%). And, the 35.5% respondents estimated that the first important information which influenced on buying dress shirts was the store display, next was internet(15.9%). Finally, I propose that the best strategy for men with low fashion consciousness is to upgrade salesmen' coordination technic and fabric knowledge, and store management with story attracting customers.

Mechanical Properties and 3D CAD Images of the Appearance of Knitted Fabric with Acetate/Polyester Composite Yarn by Different Yarn Twisting Methods (연사방법에 따른 아세테이트/폴리에스터 복합사 편성물의 역학적 특성 및 3D CAD System에 의한 외관특성)

  • Kim, So-Jin;Jeon, Dong-Won;Park, Young-Hwan
    • Textile Coloration and Finishing
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.33-43
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study was to eximine the effect of different yam twisting methods on mechanical properties and 3D CAD images of plain knitted fabrics made of composite yarns. Six yams were used in this study: four different composite yams of the six consist of acetate and functional polyester (Poly-m) with the ratio of 70:30, and the rest two are the original acetate $100\%$ yam and the poly-m $100\%$ yarn. The four kinds of composite yarns were processed in combinations of twisting processes such as interlacing, false twisting, two for one twisting, combined twisting and single covering, and the two original yams were knitted without any twisting process. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the six knitted fabrics, knitted under the same knitting conditions, were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. The results were as follows; 1) When the sample applied with the false twisting process at the temperature as high as $220^{\circ}C$, ENT, B, HB, G and RC values of samples increased which leads to increasing dimensional stability. 2) To gain the high bending and shear properties in the single covering process, selecting the core yarn with such properties is the most important factor. 3) Interlacing process effected to increase RC value. 4) False twisting process after interlacing process gave bulkiness and un-interlaced part in yam was increased SMD value. The SMD value of the kilted fabric of the composite yarn, which was put through the combined twist process, was higher than those of which simple process such as the two for one twist or the single covering process applied. In order to achieve the silk-like surface feel of knitted fabric, the sin91e covering process is recommended. 5) Examining the simulation images of the knifed fabrics of composite yarn, which were generated by the 3D CAD system based on the mechanical properties of the fabric, led that appearance could be changed as different twisting methods were applied.

A Study on Cyber Punk Fashion Expressed in the Movies (영화에 표현된 사이버 펑크패션에 관한 연구)

  • Jung Yeoun-Ja
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.181-188
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    • 2005
  • This study attempted to investigate the plastic characteristics of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion in the cyber punk movies in order to inquire into how the influence of the cyber punk taking the lead in the spiritual culture and way of life of the humankind in the 21th century would be expressed in fashion. For this purpose, it sought to analyze the beauty of new fashion creating the cyber environment and identify its contemporary meaning. An attempt was made to investigate the image of cyber punk fashion with a focus on fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies. As a result, the following findings were obtained: First, the image of cyber punk fashion expressed in the cyber punk movies was simplicity, which was to express the modest silhouette and details exclusive of decoration. In addition to clean and smooth gloss, it contained the modest image of resistance', not 'revolt' by borrowing the partial motive and image from existing punk fashion. The change of cyber punk fashion into the characteristic of concise, smooth external appearance brought about the restraint of its image and symbolism as well as its plastic characteristic. Second, it was characterized by the Eroticism nature of emphasizing the body line while expressing the future and modest image or exposing the body. Cyber punk fashion expressed the avant-garde image by using materials that gave a mysterious and future feelings, as well as unsymmetrical silhouette, the slit of body-conscious line, coarse cutting, the method of do-constructing and reconstructing the silhouette, the method of applying diverse underwears such as corset, brassiere and the like. Third, cyber punk fashion was marked by the nature of mined sex. It had the masculine image by using the black color containing the image of masculinity and resistance in female clothing and expressing the suit, coat and military looks giving an masculine impression. And it expressed the image of mixed sexes with the masculine image in male clothing by borrowing feminine images such as body-conscious line, widely cut neckline, floral decoration, leggings and the like. Fourth, cyber punk fashion was marked by naturalness. It was expressed as clothing made from silhouette, knit, cotton and the like in the atmosphere expressing love, comfortableness and truth. This contained the image of naturalness, a return to the primitive, that human being wanted to return to their original figure in the future element. The cyber punk movie may contain a dismal, gloomy future image on the whole, which can be overcome, and shows the possibility that it may grow into the alternative culture, not the revolting culture. The movie of 'The Fifth Element' demonstrates the meaning and role that shows the bright future image. It is thought that designers should make efforts for cyber punk fashion to perform its role in changing the gloomy future image into the bright image of society

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An Analysis of Street Fashion in Northeast 3-Sung, China(Part I) -Focusing on 2006 Spring in Dalian- (중국 동북 3성 스트리트 패션 분석(제1보) -2006년 봄 대련시를 중심으로-)

  • Bae, Soo-Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.31 no.11
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    • pp.1554-1564
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    • 2007
  • In apparel industry, the production of clothing for the global market, has it#s origin in its characteristics depending on hands on working style, according to the globalization of a fashion industry. These days, however, the globalized production is unable to keep pace with the short cycle of production due to the unpredictable change of the taste or demands in the local area, as a result, the industry has come to take a focus on the production and consumption in the circumscribed region. In this stream, the northeastern area, specially, Dalian which is renowned for a center of fashion was designated as a city of this study as a representative. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of street fashion in Dalian. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 5 weeks from 14 May 2006 until 18 June 2006, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of city, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development area. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are casual styles(68%) rather than formal styles(32%). In the casual styles, sports casual(36.0%), character casual(29.5%), jean casual(2.6%) were listed. All kinds of clothes are tightly fitted due to the stretched fabric and knit fabric. 2. Preferred colors are white(31.1%), red(16.6%), black(15.8%) khaki(7.8%) and blue(7.6%) for tops, and black(34.6%), blue(27.2%), white(15.4%), brown(14.6%) for bottoms. 3. Preferred clothing items are T-shirt(36.5%), jumper(33.6%), jacket(20.0%), blouse(8.7%), etc.(1.2%) for tops, pants(91.4%), skirts(8.6%) for bottoms. In the pants, cigarette pants(34.6%), bell bottom pants(21.0%), cargo pants(19.9%), straight pants(15.9%) were listed respectively. In the skirts, flare skirt(3.9%), tight skirt(2.2%), semi tight skirt(1.7%), pleats skirt(0.8%) were listed.

Research on Continuous After-Treatment Process and System for DTP(Digital Textile Printing) (DTP(Digital Textile Printing)용 후처리 및 연속공정 시스템에 관한 연구)

  • Park, Soon-Young;Jeon, Dong-Won;Park, Yoon-Cheol;Lee, Beom-Soo;Cho, Hang-Sung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.15 no.5
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    • pp.43-54
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    • 2011
  • Digital Textile Printing(DTP) is appropriate for quick response system(QRS) and is closely connected with high value added fashion industry. Fashion products of high price are mainly silk and cotton. For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. DTP for these two fiber materials is also accompanied certainly with steaming as after-treatment process for coloration. Role of steam is like water in exhaustion dyeing. Steam can diffuse dye or ink in printing paste to fiber. Quality of DTP products depend on after-treatment processes such as steaming, washing, drying. Current production amount of DTP is smaller than one of conventional textile printing. However conventional after-treatment system has been using so far. This is mismatched with DTP in terms of process efficiency, spot work of small lot, quality control. In this study, continuous after-treatment system has been suitably designed for DTP that washing and drying are available after steaming. So, It is possible to improve efficiency of DTP process. Especially, the effects of after-treatment process, such as temperature of heat drum, steaming time on printability, color difference, color fastness were examined. Two types of samples(cotton knit and silk fabrics) were used. The results were obtained as follows : First, there is no a wide difference between the K/S values of cotton and silk treated with continuous after-treatment system and those of sample treated with conventional printing after-treatment method. So it is more effective to use the continuous after-treatment system than conventional printing after-treatment system in case of the daily throughput of 1,000 yards below. Second, after continuous after-treatment for DTP, K/S values were increased and lightness($L^*$) values were decreased. ${\Delta}E$ values were below 2.3. Third, DTP samples treated with continuous after-treatment system were tested for fastness(washing, light, rubbing). Grades of fastness(washing, light, rubbing) were above 3 grade.

Development and Analysis of Physical Property of PP Shape Memory Fabrics for Emotional Garment (감성의류용 형상기억 PP직물 소재 개발과 물성분석)

  • Kim, Hyun-Ah;Kim, Seung-Jin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.14 no.1
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    • pp.117-126
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    • 2011
  • This study investigates the physical properties and manufacturing method of shape memory fabric for emotional garment made by polypropylene. For this purpose, polypropylene(PP) POY and SDY were texturized using low temperature and constant length heat treatment texturing technologies, respectively. The shape memory fabrics made using these texturized PP yarns were woven with two kinds of PET and PTT shape memory yarns on the air-jet loom and the various physical properties of four kinds of shape memory fabrics were measured and discussed. The tenacity and breaking strain of PP texturized yarns treated by low temperature and constant length heat treatment showed high weaving efficiency and the wet thermal shrinkage of PP textured yarns was shown less than 1.5%, dry thermal shrinkage was ranged between 3% and 5%, which means thermal stability compared to the PTT textured yarn with high thermal shrinkage, 5~8%. The shape memory characteristics of PP shape memory fabrics measured by Toray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric. The heat keeping property of the PP shape memory fabric showed 56% higher value than that of PTT shape memory fabric. The water repellency of PP shape memory fabric measured by spray method showed five grade as same value as PTT shape memory fabric treated with water repellent agent. Especially, shape memory properties of PP shape memory fabric measured by 3-D image and camera measurement methods showed similar characteristics to the PTT shape memory fabric.

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Effects of Consulting-recipient Company's Organizational Characteristic on Consulting Performance (컨설팅 실행기업의 조직특성이 컨설팅 성과에 미치는 영향 -제조기업 M사 생산직 종사자를 중심으로-)

  • Kim, Cheong-Ki;You, Yeon-Wu
    • Journal of Digital Convergence
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    • v.11 no.3
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    • pp.139-155
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this research is to study the impact of a consulting-recipient company's organizational characteristics have on consulting performance based on a case study of M manufacturing company that received HR consulting. Noticing that the subject company received HR consulting, consulting performance was evaluated in terms of two variables, HR effectiveness and organizational commitment, and the research focused on analyzing HR system improvement and change in awareness of employees. The result showed that all lower factors that describe organizational characteristics - closeness, delegation of responsibilities, ethical management, communication and shared values - had statistically positive impact on HR effectiveness at significance level p<.05. Also, the higher the HR effectiveness, the higher the positive impact on organizational commitment improvement. Moreover, it was shown that all lower factors in organizational characteristics had positive impact on overall consulting performance. Accordingly, the research concludes that, in order to improve consulting performance, i.e., HR effectiveness and organizational commitment, for blue collar workers, the company needs to create a family-oriented and closely-knit working environment, establish rules and systems to delegate responsibilities appropriately, actively promote ethical management and provide strategic activities to facilitate effective communication.

A Study on the Costume of The Korean-Chinese Women in Yanbian, China - Focusing on 1990′s -

  • Zhang, Shun-Ai;Kim, Jin-Goo
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.25-33
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    • 2001
  • This study is to analyze Korean-Chinese women's Costume in Yabian with factors such as reform opening-up, economic growth, change of social values, development of technology, more education opportunities and influence of mass media. It divides the 1990's into two halves. Photos, interview, observation and relevant literature were used for this study. Even though economy grew rapidly, they needed to purchase daily goods other than clothes. In a way that they preferred practicality, it showed somewhat it was still developing. The trend in the first half of the 1990's was characterized : first, Synthetic or artificial fibers and ready-made suits were popular ; second, there still remained the men's style ; third, they wore Tanrikoo(彈力袴), Tisingkoo(體型袴), Jiaotakoo(脚袴) because of its properties of activeness and comfort ; fourth, shoulders looked ore prominent with pads as they were used in Chungsanfoo(中山服) ; fifth, clothes in grey and dark blue was in fashion ; sixth, they wore hand-made knit vests and sweaters and often mountain-climbing gears for its light and warm quality ; seventh, along with opening-up, various materials and colorful clothes were in style, which satisfied women's desire for beauty. They decorated Hanbok(韓服), using sleeves with colors, golden ornaments, flower patterns embroidery, materials of different color in collar and tie and dyes of sleeves and skirts. In the first half of the 1990's when the opening-up was beginning, there were diverse styles and colors in fashion, yet not close to good quality. As the economy grew, the second half of the 1990's was characterized by good palate, individuality, favouritism on foreign goods, rapid change of fashion. For instance, fur coat and woolen fabric were favored. Economic growth led to abundance of cloth, dyes and decorative materials. In addition, people possessed more clothing and it was possible for them to wear both Hanbok and wedding dress in wedding ceremony. People placed their standards on competency and financial ability rather than ideology. Worship disappeared and individuality arose. Therefore, apparel functioned not only as protection but as suits with aesthetic purpose. This resulted in introduction of bold style, imitation of western countries and extension of use of Hanbok. With the help of mass media, transportation, telecommunication, contact with Korean company and civilians, Korean and western cultures, through Korea, were accepted. Change in structure of economic status caused excessive spending and more educational opportunities that enabled people to accept foreign culture quickly. Values moved onto new, beautiful and better characteristics. it was possible to have suits ready-made due to improvement of mass production and cotten, wool, linen, silk became popular owing to technology. New technology, the bases of mass consumption, increased possession of clothing and accelerated change of fashion. In summary, women's Costume in Yanbian were affected by the factors in economy, politics, culture contact as well as change of society and technology.

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The Physical Property of the Structural Color Yarn and Fabric for Emotional Garment Using Biomimetic Technology (생체모방기술을 응용한 감성의류용 구조발색사와 직물의 물성)

  • Kim, Hyun-Ah;Kim, Seung-Jin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.15 no.1
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    • pp.141-148
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    • 2012
  • This study investigated the structural coloration and fabric hand of the caustic reduced fabrics for emotional garment using structural color yarns, which was spun by 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers capable of producing basic colors using biomimetic technology. The colorations of the three kinds of structural color yarns were confirmed using multi angle spectro-photometer, and their triangular cross sections composed with 37 alternating nylon and polyester layers were measured using SEM and were discussed with layer length in relation with coloration and spinning conditions were also set up. The apparent color difference and reflectance of the three kinds of fabrics with different density and weave pattern were analysed as ranging from 400nm to 700nm. The optimum fabric structural design which is made by warp and weft densities(194ends/in ${\times}$ 105picks/in) and caustic reduction condition by $100^{\circ}C$ temperature and 60minutes with NaOH, 20g/l solution were decided through analysis of the mechanical properties and fabric hands of these three kinds of fabrics treated with 3 kinds of the caustic reduction conditions. And it was shown that the rate of caustic reduction was increased from 13% to 23% with increasing temperature and time of caustic reduction. The extensibility, bending rigidity and shear modulus of caustic reduction treated fabrics were decreased by treatment of caustic reduction, on the other hand fabric compressibility was increased. And it was shown that the hand value of specimen number one which was treated with temperature $100^{\circ}C$ and time 60minute was the best and the hand of this fabric was better than that of Morpho $fabric^{(R)}$ made by Teijin co. Japan.

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