• 복식
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• 제65권6호
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• pp.112-132
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• 2015

Banya was a concubine slave of Shindon(辛旽) who was a powerful monk in late Goryeo Dynasty, as well as the mother of King Woo(禑王), a successor of King Gongmin(恭愍王). This study was undertaken to investigate the sources of costume for Banya. The study focused on the features of Buddhist service costume, street wear, and daywear for common women's costume during the prime age of the Buddhist culture. The study looked into Buddhist paintings, old documents, advanced research, and relics. There are three characteristics of historically investigated Buddhist service costume for Banya: Dallyeongpo(團領袍), long Jeogori made with black Ra(羅), and Jeogori with a long scarf. Skirt, under Jeogori, under skirt, Cho, Ra(羅), Neung (綾), Dan(緞), patterned ramie(紋紵), and Tapja(塔子) were included in all Buddhist service costume. And, street wear consisted of Women's Dapho(婦人搭忽), long Jeogori, skirt, underwear and black Ra beil(蒙首). Daywear consisted of Banbi(半臂), long Jeogori, and skirt, underwear made with cheap fabric, Ju(綢), ramie, and imported cotton. Plumper hair, silver comb and Biyeo, lining of light pink-colored thin silk(小紅薄絹), bronze openworked ornament that fixed the outerwear's opening, bronze needle case, Sutra box and heated gemstone could be matched for the Buddhist service costume. Bronze and heated gemstone could be used for ornaments of street wear and daywear. The investigation of ornaments was carried on by referring to presentation of overseas collections. Considering the limitation of the study on Goryeo costume due to the lack of research material, future studies including much more relics in oversea collections needs to be undertaken.

• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.110-123
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the first birthday Hanboks on Internet shopping malls and to find the reason why the costume has various types. From April to May 2012, first birthday costumes were sold on 154 Internet shopping mall sites. On 48 of the shopping malls, traditional Hanboks were sold, on 33 of the shopping malls, fusion Hanboks were sold, and on 73 of the shopping malls, Western formal wear was sold. The percentage of the Hanboks and Western costumes for the first birthday was almost the same. Boys costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Magoja, Joggi, Jeogori, and Baji" or 'Baeja, Jeogori, and Baji" with Jeonbok or Sagyusam. Boys' headgear consisted of Bokgun and Hogun. Girls' costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Chima' or 'Dangui, Chima or Seuranchima'. Girls' headgear was Gulle, Jobawui, and Baessidaenggi. Boys' costumes in the fusion Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Baji, and Wanggunmo' which is different from the traditional Hanbok in materials, colors, and parts of construction. Girls' costumes in the fusion Hanbok could be divided into 3 different types; a modified traditional skirt, Chima, 'Chima and Jeogori" with new materials and colors, and Western dress with traditional materials. The first birthday Hanboks on the Internet shopping malls are simple and convenient compared to the traditional ones. Furthermore, parts of the costumes are influenced by some popular historical dramas. One of the reasons why the costumes have changed is because the customers have few experiences about traditional Korean costumes and their interests have been affected by the modern media.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.564-573
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to investigate decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in special monthly magazines relevant to the traditional magazine. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are largely classified into single and composite types. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, embroideries and seonchigi or multi-colored stripes and seonchigi is often used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, seop, goreum or coat strings, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have no pattern on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Git used for jeogori is largely classified into dangko git and donggrae git in type. Its color is in most cases same as the main color of jeogori. Keutdong for jeogori is usually 4 to 5.5 cm in breadth, classified as type II. Its color is in most cases white. Goreum for jeogori is usually large in length. Its color is most cases same as that of jegori or reddish purple or blackish red purple.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권6호
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• pp.66-76
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• 2017

This study used a virtual wearing system equipped with body shape data with a 3D scanner, based on a female basic bodice, to develop a modified Hanbok Jeogori with high fitness capabilities to provide basic data for the development of the modified Hanbok Jeogori pattern for the academic and industrial fields. In this study, the representative modified Hanbok design which most frequently appeared in broadcasting ads and on line was selected. The wearing test was conducted by six professionals, and three times wearing tests were implemented based on 17 evaluation items. The data for this study was processed statistically using SAS 9.0. We conducted, the F-test for significance verification, the Duncan-test for a post test, and a correlation analysis of Cronbach's alpha coefficient for a reliability test of dressing test results were implemented for each of the three tests. The pattern of the developed modified Hanbok Jeogori overcame the defects of the short length of the conventional modified hanbok, and could fix the length issue. The developed Hanbok pattern solved the overlapping problem of the shoulder, back neck point-sleeve length(Whajang), and armhole, displayed in a straight line from the Godae point of the previous modified Hanbok; it suggested the position of the Seop and neck line in the basic bodice. Based on this, the Seop width, Git form, Goreum and the width, length, and position of the string whose dimensions can differ in accordance with the trend can be applied in various forms.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제29권2호
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• pp.272-288
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to classify the types of decoration techniques used in women's Chima and Jeogori in traditional Hanbok catalogs from 2010 to 2020, and to analyze the frequency of each type. The method of this study is as follows. This study first investigated the transition of modern Hanbok and decorative techniques by analyzing and classifying such work in previous studies. Based on this, the technique of decorating the Jeogori and Chima that appeared in the traditional Hanbok catalog of the study period was analyzed. The results of the study are as follows. In the case of Jeogori, in the first half of 2010, the decorative technique of a relatively large size was used, and the decorativeness tended to be strong. However, in the late 2010s, the number of decorative techniques used in Jeogori has decreased, and the size of the decorative technique has become smaller and more concise, leading to a tendency to understated decoration. In the case of Chima, techniques to express natural texture by processing threads or fabrics themselves were mainly used rather than techniques to add decoration to the surface, and techniques to express various surface texture tended to develop toward the late 2010s. The change in the decoration technique of Jeogori and Chima appears to be a combination of social, cultural, and economic factors such as a change in consumption culture and a reduction in the wedding market.

• 복식
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• 제62권6호
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• pp.53-66
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• 2012

This study analyzed the fabrics of Chima, Jeogori of the 20th century. It was based on Kyungwoon Museum relics, newspaper articles and photographs. This research focused on the transition process that has been organized into three stages. The first stage is from the opening of a port to the colonial period in Korea. By this time, the casual wear Hanbok was made with the traditional cotton and woolen textiles in addition to quite a lot of upscale clothing textiles. Stage two is from 1970s to the period after the liberation and Western Costumes represent the time of when the suit was mixed. At the time of the war, due to social and economic difficulties, convenience and practicality were emphasized rather than focusing on aesthetic characteristics. Third period is from the 1980s to the 1990s when the Hanbok was no longer considered a casual wear. Instead, its high quality and elegance redefined it to be a formal wear.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권2호
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• pp.128-142
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• 2018

This study explores newborn clothing with regard to clothing type, construction, textiles, design, size, and label placement. Related consumer complaints are also analyzed. Analysis of 50 newborn clothing items revealed six types of newborn clothing: baenaet jeogori, baenaet gown, bodysuit, one-piece, shirt and pants set, and pants. The baenaet jeogori was the most common type, and the most commonly used fasteners were ties and snaps. The following characteristics were commonly observed: front opening, long raglan sleeves, mitten cuffs, cotton fabric, white/ivory color, animal print, contrast hem, $appliqu{\acute{e}}$, and size 60. In-depth interviews of 12 mothers with children under 24 months revealed that the baenaet jeogori was the most unsatisfactory type; the shirt and pants set and bodysuit were preferred. Interviewees were dissatisfied with types of openings, expressing a preference for snaps and complaining about ties, too many snaps, metal snaps, and shoulder openings. Overly wide or narrow sleeves resulted in improper fit, and long sleeves made it difficult to dress the baby. Interviewees required diverse sleeve length options. They were dissatisfied with heavy fabric for hot and warm seasons, and with labels attached inside clothing or outside near the neckline. Mothers with particularly small or big babies complained about limited sizes. To improve current newborn clothing, additional items such as shirt and pants sets or individual pants, front opening clothing with few snaps, proper sleeve fit with diverse length options, lightweight fabric for hot and warm seasons, label placement that avoids skin irritation, and size segmentation are recommended.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제23권6호
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• 복식
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• 제59권2호
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• pp.59-69
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• 2009

This study aims to identify how Korean women's traditional costume, Hanbok, has changed according to the times in terms of color coordination of Jeogori and Chima. Photos had been taken at wedding places and streets at 5 major cities(Seoul, Pusan, Kwangju, Daejon, Jeju) at two weekends of each season in 1999, 2001, and 2003. Total 1617 photos were used as final data. Data were analyzed by hue coordination and value level. Hue coordination exist in one-color and two-color coordination. In one-color coordination, red color(R & RP) was the most frequently used and blue green(BG) was the next, and the least was blue purple(BP) for each year. In value scale, high level was the most frequent and followed by middle level and low level. Pink was the most preferred color for one-color coordination. In two-color coordination, white and blue were widely used for Jeogori and red and blue far chima for each year, which seemed to be the basic color coordination for Jeogori and Chima. While there was a certain basic color coordination types across year, but a few new color coordination appeared each year and maintained as popular color coordination for one or two year.