• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.8
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1939-1949
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to identify differences or similarities across the ensembles of 2006 F/W fashion trends in the big fashion centers such as Paris, London, New York, and Seoul, by street fashion research. The study focuses on understanding of localized fashion trend in the marketplace. We used photograph observation and analyzed data by SPSS program. We found there is a significant difference in winter outfits at these different global fashion mega cities. Most Korean women were wearing light colored outer jackets and blue jeans were dominant style for pants. The majority of Paris/London, New York and Seoul people on the street were wearing wool/wool like coat. Padded coats were worn more by New Yorkers than by people in Seoul. For the bottom, there is a similarity between Paris/London, and New York City, in that skinny pants were popular. Koreans were wearing skinny pants mostly, but the percentage of mini skirts/shorts was also higher than any other cities. We found that the cross-cultural fashion mega trend is similar in clusters, but there is a slight difference of trend in clothing color, style and design details, and accessories by localized fashion cities. Not only direct observation but also identification of cultural characteristics and consumer behavior through the years will bring much more contributions to apparel industries.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.221-232
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• 1995

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and thirty four pictures of the engraved painting on the wood. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the forth year of the king Wu based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and Pulsul-Yaesu 가) Men's wear 1. Hair style and hair dress ; Man tied up a top knot and they put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots. 2. Clothes : 1) King wore an uniform of Mien-lu Kuan system. 2) The Crown Prince and high rank officials wore Yuan-yu-Kuan Won-jung-po-ju-Kuan, Sa-bang-Kuan, Yun-wha-Kuan and montain shape Po-ju-Kuan as a court dress. 3) Officials put on the Pok-du as an official dress and Won-jung-ip-mo, Kun and Mo as an everyday dress, the monk put on the diamond shape Do-kuan and Du-kun and the soldier put on the Helmet. Costume system of man was as follows ; They wore exchanged shape collar, big sleeve jacket, long skirt, apron, hanging precious stone big belt as a Mien-pok. 4) The soldiers wore helmet, Keun-Kap, Scarf, Pee-Bak, Hung-Kap, Pok-Kap, Yang-Dang-Kap, We-Yo-Kap, Kum-Kap, and caries arms. Lower-level officials wore Pe-Bal, Kun-Mo, gae, won-leung, very small sleve jacket, a long coat reaching up to the knee length, slacks, belt, loin cloth and apron. 5) Children's bind their hair up angle shape and wore a half long jacket raching up to the hip and slacks. 나) Women's wear; 1. hair style and hair dress; 1) High rank women's hair style was very extravaganceful. They made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and decoraed precious stone, pan shape head dress, wheel shape head dress, and flower shape precious stone decorated head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) High rank ladi's wore Kun-Kyun attached jacket, and jacket sleeves decorated pleats, and pleats decorated long skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf, this type is the same with Dang Dynasty, five dynasty of china, Song, Kum, Won, Myung Dynasty, and our costume of Poe-hae, and Shilla Dyansty. 2) Official ladies wore exchange shape collor, big sleeve jacket, long pleats skirt, apron, and back apron, scarf. 3) Women wore top knot hair style and decorated by ribbons. Shoulder scarf attached small sleeve jacket and wore reaching up to the knee length. Side seam is open and under wear was long skirt. 4) High knot hair style and exchanged shape collor jacket, under wear wore long skirt. They wore under skirts and the jackets. 5) High knot hair style, exchange shape collor jacket reaching up to the knee length small sleeve under wear wore long skirt, belt. 6) High knot hair style, big sleeve jacket and long skirt. 7) Foot wear wore boots, mokasin type shoes, sandal.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.1-11
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• 2006

Che Guevara spearheading the Cuban Revolution was not only the icon as the revolutionary to the New-leftists of the 1960s advocating the ideology of Marxism but, as the cultural revolutionary, had a tremendous influence on the younger generation living in the digital age Che Guevara take on a figure of both the symbol of the Leftist but the romantic revolutionary because he had the external features such as black beret, red stars, military upper jackets and trousers, beard and pipe tobacco. In fact, the symbolic image of Che Guevara was made as the popular image by the avantgarde artists and political vanguard forces of the times under the necessity of Cuban government. Afterwards, the image of Che Guevara has been patronized in making people of aware of the resistant and revolutionary image to capital, power and the power of the media and symbolized as the resistant image to the American capital as well as the revolutionary guerrilla. And his image has continued to be reproduced and symbolized for the commercial and political purposes and as the enthusiastic image of youth culture. This can be seen as having been created as a new image by the popular culture formed by the development of the cyber culture and mass media in the cyberspace shaped by contemporary 'N' generations. The use of Che Guevara's symbolic image was made in the fashion field as well as in the cultural and artistic circles. The borrowing of the icon of Che Guevara represented in a fashion field is attributed to his free spirit, and it can be seen that fashion exists as the vehicle for representing both the symbol system and the sign system containing ideologies and texts as the communicator of resistance to the regime and to social issues. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the commercial iconization of Che Guevara in the 1990s by comparing the ideology of the symbol in the 1960s and the 1990s and inquire into the borrowing of his image by the fashion domain as well as the fashion worn by him by reference to domestic books and materials on the fashion site. Thereby, this study attempted to make clear that the borrowing of Che Guevara in the realm of fashion since the 1990s not only contained the meaningful interpretation as the symbolic code in the culture of young people living in a digital era but fashion performs an intervening role in the cultural phenomenon.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.394-404
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• 2007

The purpose of the study was to analyze the difference in knitwear purchasing behaviors of female college students in the U.S., Korea, and China. It was developed questionnaire that included knitwear purchasing behavior that is fashion information sources, evaluation criteria of knitwear products, store attributes of knitwear, knitwear buying places, and purchasing experience of foreign-made knitwear. The final sample used in this study consisted of 119 female college students in U.S., 150 female college students in Korea, and 217 female college students in China. Aged from 18 to 33. ANOVA, factor analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, frequency, and percentage as analysis methods were used. The results of the study were as follows. The preference of knitwear among the respondents was shown highly. This result is due to a world-wide trend of casual clothing, and is to prove, that knitwear is that made with flexibility, drape, and stretch, is the item that is able to satisfy consumer's desires. Knitwear preference of knitwear the U.S. respondents was shown highly, and buying intention of them was also high, not only for sweaters and t-shirts but for pants, skirts, jackets, coats, and dresses as well. Knitwear information the U.S. respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop display and magazine advertisements. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the U.S. respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they didn't consider the country of origin important. By store attributes of knitwear, the U.S. respondents specially considered the display, variety, price level, and sale frequency of merchandise. The respondents of China was shown higher than them of Korea in the intention of all items. Knitwear information the China respondents considered important, was not only purchasing experience but also shop advertisements of Newspaper and magazine and fashion articles in Newspaper and magazine. By evaluating criteria of knitwear, the China respondents considered good fit, design, color, and comfort important, and they considered fiber content and the country of origin higher than the respondents of U.S. By Store attributes of knitwear, the China respondents specially considered product knowledge and friendliness of sales personnel, Layaway payment plan, Brand names, New Fashion, and Dressing Facilities higher than the respondents of U.S. or Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.825-836
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• 2005

The purpose of this research is to analyze the harmony of contrast coloration of the traditional Korean dress as the subject of the study for women's college students in Korea and America. The sense of harmonious coloration for 64 colorations was evaluated based on a yellow and a green Korean jackets, to be contrast colorization, by combining four different tones, vivid, light, dull, and dark tones in a purple and a blue skirt with a yellow jacket, a red and a purple skirt with a green jacket. We tried to make sure of the cultural difference by the distinction in the perception of women's college students. in Korea and America. The result of the study is as follows. In the contrast coloration of a yellow jacket with a purple and a blue skirt, Korean women students, generally, perceived that the coloration that skirt is more dark than jacket, dull and dark tone is harmonious. On the other hand, American women students perceived harmonious skirt tone is various depending on the jacket tones. In the coloration of a green jacket and a red skirt, the women students of two countries are in common that the coloration of a vivid skirt with a vivid, a dull, and a dark jacket are harmonious. However, Korean women students indicated that a light jacket with a dark tone skirt as a harmonious coloration. American women students evaluated that various tones of coloration as a harmonious coloration. In the coloration of a green jacket and a purple skirt, Korean women students perceived that the coloration is incompatible coloration. American women students perceived the coloration is congruous in the coloration of a dull and a dark tone jacket and skirt. In the response of the perception for 64 contrast coloration, Korean students evaluated 14 sets and American students judged 28 sets as harmonized colors. Therefore, it drew the conclusion that Korean students had the sense of harmonious coloration of more narrow range than American students. There was a difference between two cultures in the standard far contrast coloration.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.83-94
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• 2016

The aim of this study was to investigate effective expression method of performance information of functional clothing and preferred alternatives for the categorized consumer groups according to the perception about the functional outdoor jacket. 472 males and females in their 20s-60s' were surveyed and their answers were analysed and categorized by using SPSS 21.0 statistical program. For the study, four different expression methods for waterproof & breathable fabric, 'illustration only', 'illustration+Korean text', 'illustration+foreign text', and 'chart with Korean text', were presented and asked for finding correct answers. The analysis was done for three categorized consumer groups from the former study, 'unconversant/brand & design pursuing group', 'conversant/function pursuing group' and 'high price/high function preferring group'. The results showed that regardless of groups, 'picture only' was the most preferred method and 'graph' was the least. However, the percentage of correct answers for the 'graph' was the biggest, especially for 'conversant/function pursuing group'. It implied that the effective expression method should be differentiated depending on the target consumer groups. 'Conversant/function pursuing group' more agreed on the need for additional information, such as 'after-washed performance', than other two groups.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.83-98
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• 2006

With the subjects of male consumers in their 20s to 40s living in the Ningbo area in Zhejiang Province, this study aims to investigate into the reality of their purchase attitude and size fitness of ready-made suits. The results are as follows; Looking into their demographic characteristics, 70.6% of the subjects were twenties, 60.6% were single, and educational career stood in the order of college, middle school, and high school graduation. They were largely absorbed in free trade, followed by teaching, commerce and service industry. 59.6% of them were Zhejiang Province belongs. One to two thousand yuan was the greatest portion of their monthly income. As for their purchase attitude of ready-made suits, they thought higher of material, quality, activity, and solidity than of design. They preferred to buy clothes at a department store. There was significant difference between purchase frequency and purchase price according to monthly income and jobs. Concerning brand recognition, the Chinese subjects favored "Youngor." Though Korea's brands were very lowly recognized, Korean products received really high recognition. Compared with China's brands, they found foreign brands excellent in design, followed by material/matter, wear, and sewing. As to their physical satisfaction and the size fitness of clothes, most subjects felt happy with their sizes. Trousers and jackets were among the unfitting suit items, while the girth of waist was the least satisfactory size. Therefore, in order to raise the market occupation rate of Korean suit goods in China, more aggressive marketing strategies are required to utilize the current Korean-style entertainment and maximize concerning brand images. In particular, outstanding products in consideration of prices should be made through the proper patternmaking to reflect the body types of the Chinese.

• Journal of the Earthquake Engineering Society of Korea
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.77-86
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• 2004

The retrofit priority of existing and retrofitted bridges is examined and compared to determine effectively the seismic retrofit method of bridges. For the retrofit prioritization of bridges a quantitative procedure is proposed firstly based on seismic damage probabilities and total failure cost due to the damage of seismic vulnerable components. Using the proposed procedure, the retrofit priority of four typical girder-type bridges is determined. In addition, the ranking indices of bridges retrofitted by steel jackets and cable restrainers are revaluated for comparing with the results of existing bridges. Application of retrofitting method can considerably decreases damage possibilities of retrofitted components but may increases those of adjacent vulnerable components. Therefore, the seismic retrofitting effects based on the global motions of existing and retrofitted bridges should be examined to determine efficiently the retrofitting method. For evaluating the retrofitting effects the ranking indices obtained from the proposed procedure is found to be utilized effectively.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.222-231
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• 2016

Multi-member lattice-type structures including jackets and tripods are being considered as good alternatives to monopile foundations for relatively deep water of 25-50 m of water depth owing to their technical and economic feasibility. In this study, the reliability analysis of bottom-fixed offshore wind turbines with monopile and/or multi-member lattice-type foundations is carried out and the sensitivities of random variables such as material properties, external wind loadings and scouring depth are compared with respect to different types of foundations. Numerical analysis of the NREL 5 MW wind turbine supported by monopile, tripod and jacket substructures shows that the uncertainties of soil properties affect the reliability index more significantly for the monopile-supported OWTs while the reliability index is not so sensitive to the material properties in the cases of tripod- and jacket-supported OWTs. In conclusion, the reliability analysis can be preliminarily carried out without considering soil-pile-interaction in the cases of tripod- and jacket-supported OWTs while it is very important to use the well-measured soil properties for reliable design of monopile-supported OWTs.