• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.48
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• pp.197-216
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• 1999

This study reflects the aim of analyzing the formality and symbolism of the Chanel suit. Chanel had designed jersey and tweed cardigan suits in the 1910s and 1920s while her suits of the 1930s were crisply fitted. The suits of the 1950s and 960s while were comfortable and slightly boxy marked a significant step forword. Lagerfeld's mission at Chanel was to tranmute the basic elements of the Chanel style and make them contemporary. He has also introduced the contemporay wide shoulders and short tihht skirt In place of sensible knee-length skirts he offered hemlines that either grazed the ankles or exposed most of the thighs. Besides her very influential jersey and tweed cardigan suit Chanel continued to assert her considerable strength with materials often making her suits in very delicate feminizing fabrics. in place of the classic boxy tweed jacket Lagerfeld introduced jackets made of terrycloth denim and stretch fabric Many of Chanel's suits show a stylish sense of colour that would have made artist envious. Chanel and Lagerfeld chose variety of colours from beige and grey and black to blue green cerisen and red for her suits. They was completely in tune with the twentieth century understanding the changes in lifestyles of woman and also understanding how her clothes should cater to them Thus the Chanel suit is more a way of life than just a fashion and is synonymous with wealth and aritocracy. It is one of the most popular status-symbol styles of the 20th century.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Telematics and Electronics B
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• v.32B no.1
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• pp.161-170
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• 1995

In this paper, we define schematic User Interface Task(SUIT) as a scheme which is a conceptual unit to specify the dialogue between man and machine. Using a set of SUITs, the user interface can be described separately from domain applications and can be realized through SUIT Manager(SUITMAN), an execution module devised to interprete and process the descriptions of SUITs. SUIT makes it possible to describe conceptual behaviors performed on the interactions of user interface in early stages of expert system development. SUITMAN analyzes the specification described in SUITs and automatically implements the user interface by using the functions in MOTIF library of X-Window system. By an example of SUIT and SUITMAN to the user interface, we applied them into an expert system, 'Circuit Provisioning Expert System'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.286-292
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze the pattern of the present flight suit, to select variables of human body and key dimensions for making pattern of the flight suit, and to decide the most appropriate size of human body and rate of ease for designing an overall flight suit. For analyzing the pattern of flight suit, we used "M95Special" (men ; chest circumference 92-97 cm ; height : above 177 cm), which was indicated as the standard of the Ministry of National Defense. We analyzed general appearance and the actual dimensions of the pattern of the flight suit. As a result of analyzing the pattern, flight suit was front-opened overall style which had a flat collar with rounded edges, two-pieced sleeves with lower height of the sleeve's cap, 3cm-width belt on the waist and 8 pockets. To decide the most appropriate size of human body, we selected 20 variables of human body in the 359 variables of the Size Korea by referring the previous studies. The 20 variables of human body were 9 circumferences (chest, waist, hip, neck, armscye, wrist, thigh, knee, and ankle), 9 lengths (stature, back interscye fold, waist back, crotch height, crotch, body rise, arm, outside leg and total), and 2 breadths (biacromial and chest). We drew out the size of 20 variables from the Size Korea and US Army anthropometry data and decided the most appropriate values from the drawn data for applying to the pattern of flight suit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.573-585
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• 2021

This paper describes the processes conducted in the analysis and conservation of suit worn by Yu Rim (1898-1961). The suit consists of a jacket and pants and is a typical Mao-style suit for independence activists; it is notable in that it was made of domestic wool. Inside the jacket, there is a machine embroidery of the name "Danju," a label of synthetic resin which reads "Daegu citizen's tailor's shop," and buttons engraved with "PUSAN SIN-HUNG." According to our textile analysis, the outer layer is composed of worsted wool while the lining is made from acetate. Damage to the garment from malodor and insects has been repaired, and the suit has been restored to its original shape by a conservation treatment that has reinforced the textiles. This conservation case can provide valuable research data on the preservation of modern and contemporary clothing. In addition, this study also attempts to estimate the date of suit worn by Yu Rim's production by comparing it with woolen suits produced around the same time and examining the clues associated with the relics. This is significant since it enhances the value of the cultural assets and provides detailed information on the historical transformation of domestic suits.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.609-616
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the difference of judge's gender and age groups in preference of S/S men's suit fabrics, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the texture by gender and age group. For this study, 60 types of S/S men's suit fabrics were used with variously-composed fibers, such as wool, wool-blended, and PET, thickness, and weight. To evaluate the texture and the preference subjectively, nine ranks' semantic differential scale questions of 22 texture adjectives and preference of 4 apparel items were developed, Through the factor analysis, texture adjectives were classified into 7 categories: "stiffness," "elasticity," "bulkiness," "coolness," "smoothness," and "drapability." Depending on gender and age groups of judges, statistically significant differences on texture factors and the preference were observed. Especially, men under 30 years of age showed a higher grade of stiffness and a lower preference on pants than other groups. The relationship between the texture and the preference was different by gender and age group: Women evaluated a preference of men's suit fabrics in relation to stiffness and smoothness, whereas men did so in relation to stiffness, smoothness, coolness, and drapability. A young age group put more importance on drapability for preference of men's suit fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.259-267
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to find out the actual condition of demining suit wearing for developing a new demining suit. The existing clothes fro detecting or demining work are lack of security, activity, and comfort. Especially, the lack of protection on the limbs and the head, and the lack of protection of its own fabrics themselves are problems in security. Developing new demining suit should consider security, activity, and facility for putting on and off the clothes with comfort. And first of all, protection from the fragments should be considered. For the improvement of the activity, flexibility, lightness, and simplicity with suitable size with minimum bulk should be considered. In adjustment, the facility is more important than the strength and the newly developed material for protection need lightness, too.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.191-199
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was designed to investigate the purchasing considerations given and wearing fit according to suit styles in male consumers in their 30s by conducting questionnarie research with 410 persons. The research intended to give menswear manufacturers the scientific data to improve consumers' satisfaction when menswear brands produce jackets. The summary and conclusions in this study are as follows: First, male consumers have moderate interest in fashion and recognize the impact of fashion on their professional lives. Also, male consumers were aware that recent menswear fashion trends are being changed to slim-fit. Second, by examining the suit inventory and the purchasing consideration according to the suit styles, male consumers in their 30s had between 2 to 4 suits, both in slim-fit and classic-fit, respectively. When consumers purchase a suit, the most important consideration factors are size and wearing fit in both slim-fit and classic-fit. The reason to purchase a slim fit suit is that it seems slim due to its fitted silhouettes, while in a classic-fit suit, it is required because of job nature. Third, the result indicates the circumferences causing the most uncomfortable were the shoulder, chest, the back, and upper arm. Also, they mentioned the chest and the abdominal section including the shoulder as the most uncomfortable circumference to the question on what to be improved in jacket. Therefore, the research suggests that the menswear manufacturer should consider different consumers' desires which require different criteria based on the suit styles.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 1992

The purpose of this study was to investigate(Ⅰ) the effect of a masculine-feminine image in women's suit on the perception of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the clothing for certain occupations, and (2) the effect of perceiver's sex, sex-role attitudes, and occupation on the perception formed by the function of clothing cues. The research design of the study consisted of 2(pink and navy blue colors) × 4(masculine and feminine forms) factorial design of a suit. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stiuli and 2 response scales. The stimuli consisted of 8 drawings of woman's clothing made by systematic manipulations of 2 independent variables(color and form) in drawings of suit. The dependent variables were the perceptions of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the masculine or feminine clothing for certain occupations. Occupational characteristics were measured with a 7-point semantic differential scale composed of 21 bipolar adjectives. Perception of ccupational suitability was assessed with 12 items of 5-point Likert type questions. In addition, the Bem Sex-role Inventory was used to assess perceiver's sex-role attitudes. The subjects consisted of 393 men and 389 women, whose occupations were classified as professionals, secondary school teachers, and white-collar workers. They were randomly assigned to one of 8 suit. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, MANOVA, ANOVA, Mean and S.D. Three factors emerged to account for the perception of occupational characteristics. These factors were given the titles of (1) activity, (2) potency, and (3) evaluation factors. The activity factor was the largest, including 9 adjectives. Differences in the form of the suit had effects on potency and evaluation for both sexes, while it also had some effect on activity for women. The color of the suit had some effect on evaluation for both sexes. Strong effects of color and form on the suit were seen in perception of occupational suitability for the occupations of attorney(masculine) and secretary(feminine). On suitability for secondary school teaching occupation, the effects of color and form of suit differed by sex of the subjects. Perceiver's sex-role attitudes and occupation paritally influenced the perception of the wearer's occupational characteristics and suitability of the clothing for certain occupations. In summary, a masculine-feminine image of clothing had a significant effect on the perception of occupational characteristics as well as on suitability of the clothing for certain occupations. Thus, the results of the study support the implicit personality theory on person perception and also the stereotypes of sex-roles on the perception of occupational suitability.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.473-487
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the body type and fashion of posthuman in SF movies. The method of this study was to analyze documentaries, internet web site, fashion books and so forth. The results were as follows: The body types of posthuman were expressed as mutation type, prosthetic type, clone type by biological hybrid or renovation and digital type by computer simulation. The mutation type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a black tailored suit, leather jacket, cat suit, whip, black sunglass, garter belt, high heel shoes, short pants, black one piece dress and functional body suit. The prosthetic type was expressed as reinforcement of body functions and reinforcement of masculinity or feminity. The fashion item was expressed as a military item, high-tech power suit and ergonomic armor suit. The clone type was expressed as the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a power shoulder jacket, fake fur coat, vinyl, black see-through look and functional suit. The digital type was expressed as reinforcement of masculinity or feminity and the plural ego with reinforcement of body functions. The fashion item was expressed as a data suit, leather jacket, black over coat, boots, black sun glass, ethnic items and military items. The meanings of posthuman fashion in SF movies were impurity of posthuman, display of superhuman's power by sexuality, metaphor of power and fantasy of superhero in opposition futuristic dystopia. As mentioned above, posthuman body type and fashion in SF movies become the conversational topic in the real world. The fact that we think about utopia and identity of posthuman in the future is of great significance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.20
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• pp.73-82
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• 1993

The Purpose of this study was to identify the constructing factors of female suit image. The questionnaire consisted of 69 words expressing suit image were developed, and six suit slides were selected for stimulus. Sixty-eight female university students majored in clothing and textiles were responded to each sledes, and then factor analysis was conducted. Six factors, such as attractiveness, peculiarity, grace, femininity, youthfullness, and comfort were found out as constructing factors of suit image(total vari-ance 60.5%) by the principal component analysis. The attractiveness factor which explained the largest variance included words such as countrified, refinement, and beautiful. Peculiarity factor included words such as peculiar, bold, complex, and decorative. Grace factor included words such as classic, grace, and elegant. Femininity factor included such as masculine, feminine, soft, and dressy. Youthfullness factor included words such as youth, bright, and charming. And comfort factor included words such as casual, comfort-able, active, and natural. The Cronbach's $\alpha$of the each factors were. 78~92.