• 제목/요약/키워드: history of costumes

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불가리아 민족복식의 고찰 - 여성복을 중심으로 - (A Study on Bulgarian Folk Costume - Focusing on Woman's Costume -)

  • 나수임
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제11권1호
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    • pp.53-62
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    • 2009
  • Through the result of the investigation on costumes in Bulgarian regions, the main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume and its kinds and history have been found out so far as follows. Alhtough varying according to the district and climate, Bulgarian folk costumes have some general features determined by the material, the pattern, the application. For women, Bulgarian costume consists of a white shirt, a single or double apron unique depending on each region(Bruchnick), a basic dress called a tunic (Soukman), and an open-tunic typed coat (saya). The main factors for the formation of Bulgarian folk costume have been under the influence of natural and environmental features and historical streams resulting from its geographical location. Bulgaria is agriculture-oriented society based on a continental climate. Accordingly, as for the classification of costumes, body-fit clothes, such as shirts and jackets which developed in Europe and fit the body shape, have featured in Bulgaria. Besides, Bulgaria was under the rule of Turk for a long time at the end of the Middle Age. Having been influenced a lot those days, its folk costume shows Turkish elements now. With geographical features, it was found that the southern area was influenced most by Turkey and Greece, and the types of folk costumes in Europe developed mainly from the northern area. The adaptation of traditional costume forms to the new cultural and progressive principles of appeal nowadays needs knowledge, as well as feeling. Finding the right measure and proportions of using old ethnic elemints in contemporary clothing is the prerequisite of successful design.

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초상화 복식을 중심으로 본 퀸 엘리자베스 1세의 영화 의상에 관한 연구 (A Study of Queen Elizabeth I's Cinema Costumes Viewed from Her Portrait)

  • 성광숙
    • 복식
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    • 제62권8호
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    • pp.55-70
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    • 2012
  • In 16th century, during renaissance time, Britain's queen Elizabeth I, as a means to express her authority, had an exaggerated clothing styles and was the fashion leader of the time. Thus, through a media of Cinema, tried to find out the characteristics and different aspects of the history of clothing styles, of how they changed, ascertained, restored, and reappeared in the modern time. The research was based on the consideration of Elizabeth I's 33 portraits and her clothing styles; and the research is also from analysing the movies from 1937 to 2007, a total of 9 Cinema and 102 clothes. Movie costumes' most important mission is representing the cinema's timely and spatial background. Thus, it is inevitable that ascertaining and restoring Elizabeth I's portrait should be done. However, the movie costume has to show her dramatic lifestyle, dignity, absolute authority, and other visual images. In addition, the costume has to contribute in making artistic effect and thus the creativity of a designer to satisfy all these needs should be added. Based on the findings from the research, the characteristics of Elizabeth I's Cinema costume are first, ascertaining and restoring portraits, second, mixture of silhouette and detail depending on time period, third, partial change on clothing style design, fourth, emphasis of ruff collar, fifth, magnification colors, sixth, avoiding excessive swelling and decoration, and applying modern style on Protective costume. Thus, based on the research, creative design in Cinema clothing, plays an important part in the history of clothing design. I hope this research could work as a foundation reference for clothing design's history.

중국 소수민족의 복식 연구(1) (The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history)

  • 박춘순
    • 복식
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    • 제26권
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    • pp.175-206
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    • 1995
  • The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

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일본 전통복식문화에 타나는 원(原)근대성 (The Proto-modernity in Japanese Traditional Costume History)

  • 허은주
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제34권9호
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    • pp.1415-1428
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    • 2010
  • Modernity in costumes is analyzed as the preference of change and novelty, the formation of the masses, and the aspect of function, which is transplanted by western modernization. However, it is seem that the factor of modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. This study examines the Proto-modernity in Japanese traditional costume history. First, this study examines the term 'Imamekashiki' which means the present time. Because of the recognition of every present time arises from the recognition and the preference of change and novelty. In the pre-modem Era, this study examines the masses formed by the publication and the play, Kabuki. This study provides an alternative answer to understanding what is to 'wear clothes' for Japanese people.

영화 '시카고'의 의상(衣裳)에 나타난 팜므 파탈 이미지 연구(硏究) (Study on Image of Femme Fatale represented on Costumes in the Movie 'Chicago')

  • 김지영;간호섭
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제8권1호
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    • pp.16-33
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    • 2004
  • Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

영화 "The Great Gatsby" 의상과 Y&Kei 컬렉션 비교 분석 (To Compare and Analyze Costumes in the Film "The Great Gatsby" and Y&Kei Collection)

  • 오지혜;이인성
    • 복식문화연구
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    • 제16권6호
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    • pp.1050-1063
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    • 2008
  • A movie is a fiction made on a basis of an author's and a writer's imagination, but all sorts of properties mixed with each other and most realistically expresses the era which becomes the background of a movie and acts as a carrier that connects designers with consumers. Thus, this study was carried out to review how the fashion products that designer's intention and commercial value added are expressed in collections by comparing and analysing the costumes in the movie "The Great Gatsby" that described the life of America's upper-class in 1920s and the 04 S/S Y&Kei collection which were proceeding after getting inspiration from this movie. For this, literature materials were inspected in order to make a theoretical review on social and cultural background and costumes history background in 1920s and the photo materials on movie costume were collected and analysed using DVD video captures, as well as the photo materials on 04 S/S Y&Kei were collected and analyzed through the institute providing domestic fashion information. The following conclusion was deduced through this study. First, in 1920s which becomes the background of this study, the slim shape of Flapper which looks like a young and boy became an ideal figure condition and the straight silhouette with low waist line and the short skirt that rose to knee was popular. Second, as a result of analysing movie costume by classifying it in silhouette, colors, and materials, straight silhouette of low waistline with a near colored - tone seen in the pastel series, including white, beige, pink, and gray was mainly constituted and the metal colors like silver and gold were used. As a material, chiffon, satin, velvet, flower patterned prints, and beads were used, which represented luxurious life of women in the upper classes. Third, as a result of comparing and analysing, it turned out that there was a similarity. However, in dress collection for a heroine, some dissimilarity differentiated from a movie costumes was found out in that the dresses in collection expressed moderate beauty and modernism and elegant beauty at the same time by matching a variety of materials and using black color.

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복식사연구방법에 관한 소고(ll) (A study on the methods of inquiry in the history of costume)

  • 신상옥
    • 대한가정학회지
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    • 제23권4호
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    • pp.9-17
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    • 1985
  • The pur[pose of this study is to investigate the research method and to provide a guide to the ways in which researcher, interested in costume history, can obtain in formation. There are comparison, induction, observation, awnalysis, experience and synthesis in method of science. Firstly, comparative research is to ascertain the accumulated evidence. Secondly, we can compare with historical phenomenon. A research intend to verify the hypothesis based upon the sources of information. It is an available method to investigate the costumes and adornments in the past. Whatever the approach, the researcher much discribe the facts objectively. Historical research has been approached in many warys in the field of costume. There are visual and documentary sources. Visual sources are paintings, sculptutre, frescoes, coins, potteries, medals, mosaics, wall paintings, stained glasses, seals, tapestries, illustrations, photographs, movies, and fashion dolls. Documentary sources are archives, letters, diaries, literature, wardrobe accounts, sumpturary laws, newspapers, and recollections.

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현대패션에 표현된 개더 장식의 미적 특성 연구 - 2001년 이후 컬렉션을 중심으로 - (A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Gather Decorations in the Contemporary Fashion - Focusing on the Collections after 2001 -)

  • 윤진아
    • 한국의상디자인학회지
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    • 제8권1호
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    • pp.155-168
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study focusing on the gather decorations shown in the modern fashion was to review needlework techniques and design features of gather decorations and thereupon, analyze the aesthetic characteristics of gather decorations shown in designers' works to examine the gather decoration trend in today's fashion. First, the decorative features of gather decorations different from the conventional costumes are shirring, lace and trimming combined or shirring repeated. Second, in view of sensualism, the gather decorations seem to play a role of enhancing the exposure as a mode of expression, while the indirect exposure or beach is mixed with the materials to widen the range of gather decoration expressions. Third, in terms of history, the conventional decorative techniques are combined with new techniques and materials to create a fantastic and romantic mood different from the conventional costumes. Fourth, in view of rhythms, the wave line of the rim for gather decorations serves to express some vivid effects; on the human body, its monotonous plane repetition will turn into a new expression or a voluminous physical sense of motion. However, since expressions or meanings of the gather decorations are much diversified, they should not be regarded as simple decoration details. Our modern designers searching for new expression of creases use unique structural forms to explore the possibility of creative gather decorations. In all, since gather decorations seem to be significant as unique details conducive to a structural pragmatism and aesthetics, it is deemed necessary to continue to develop gather decorations.

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패션과 예술의 간계에 대한 이론적 고찰 -화가와 패션, 패션디자이너와 예술의 관계를 중심으로- (Theoretical Inquiry into the Relationship between Fashion and Art -Focusing on the Relationship between the Artist and Fashion, and between the Fashion Designer and Art-)

  • 신주영
    • 복식
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    • 제58권8호
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    • pp.1-12
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    • 2008
  • This study begins by establishing the theory that paintings serve as a visual documentation of a particular era and record the ideal fashions and customs about dress behavior through the costumes represented in them and examines the close relationship between fashion and art, focusing on the influence of art on fashion, as well as that of fashion on art, for both painters and fashion designers. To attain the goal of the study, the selected objects of study are written references and dresses represented in paintings produced in the 19th century. Painters who were the subject of documentation created or popularized new fashion styles before the concept of 'fashion designer' was introduced in history. In order to capture and represent the ideal beauty of certain period, painters understood the important role of fashion. Their work not only included the designing of costumes or accessories for the sitters, but also the spreading of new fashion styles by showing the sitters wearing them. Study of the mutual relationship between fashion and art grew more vigorous among many intellectuals in a variety of fields beginning in the 19th century. The standing of fashion was elevated and the concept of the 'fashion designer' was introduced and the interest in the themes of a specific style or the background of a trend increased during this time period. Many contemporary fashion designers created dresses inspired by the costumes represented in paintings. The result of this study which focuses on the relationships between fashion, artist, fashion designer and art is that connection between fashion and art is closely and firmly formed. For several hundred years, painters were the creators as well as promulgators of fashion and fashion designers, from the 19th century until today, have obtained their creative inspiration from art.

17세기 네덜란드 델프트 학파 회화에 나타난 동양풍 연구 (A Study on Orientalism in the Paintings of Delft School in 17th Century Netherlands)

  • 김명은;배수정
    • 복식
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    • 제65권8호
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    • pp.136-150
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this thesis is to elucidate the exchange between the East and the West during the 17th century through analyzing the oriental influences described in paintings in Delft school, a trade port of East India Company. The scope of this study focused on the 37 pieces of works by Johannes Vermeer and 31 pieces of the paintings by Pieter de Hooch, which are all the existing work, as analysis targets. The resources of this study were from previous papers about the history of costumes, paintings and culture, Internet sources and other qualitatively analyzed articles. The items that the study looked into were Delft porcelains and Delft tiles, Turkey carpets, costumes and accessories pearl earrings and headdresses. The study looked into oriental factors observed in each of these items, and analyzed them. In terms of oriental factors that are frequently observed in paintings, porcelains (100%), Deft tiles (100%), pearl earrings (100%) and (most) carpets (92.3%) turned out to have oriental nature, but this was not the case with head dresses (7.7%) and clothing (0.3%). These results happen to coincide with the previous investigation in that the oriental factor was reflected in the culture first, while the effects on costumes significantly lagged behind. This progress in cultural exchange can be seen through the noted use of Chinoiserie, a technique that is representative of the Chinese culture, in the 18th century. Through Japonism, the influence of Japanese culture into Europe was introduced, in detail, in 19th century. These results suggest that there are sufficient amount of sources that could be used to study the effect of orientalism to the Western culture. This study intends to look at how the oriental culture affected those of Europe by researching the Delft school of Netherlands during the 17th century.