• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.2 s.92
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• pp.143-152
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• 2005

Stepping in the 1990s, we has lived under the time of co-existence of diverse culture as well as faced the diffusion of pop-culture. The border between subculture style and hi-fashion has been blurred since beginning of 1990s. By this reason, recognizing the power of influence and importance of subculture style, we will try to provide the comprehensive vision reflecting the cultural background to analyze the subculture style. We will conclude this article with discussing the club-culture which is settle as one type of culture. Enjoying the club-culture, clubber tries to escape from the structural estrangement putting by the magical and symbolic meaning through creating their own style, and endowing their life the meaning. They make liquid club wear targeting at general young culture, pop culture, and subculture as well as hippies, Mods, funk. The Club wear around University sort out Hiphop Style, Casual Style, Mix and Match style. As at the club the hiphop music was played, the hiphop style dress becomes the club ware. Especially, training style clothes which is easy to dance has become the everyday dress, not just restricted in the indoor dress.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.35 no.6
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• pp.1-13
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• 1997

Hipp8ie style was introduced in 1960s when young generation's movement against industrial society and mass culture was spread. Its value was to go back to "Real and Pure Nature". Hippie originated from "Human Be-in" which was on-violent revolution held in sanfrancisco. American Hippie style was represented through freedom and love based on drug and psychedelic culture which were created by the young generation who were against traditional esthetic value as well as the moral and material value. However, Hippie style was represented differently in France. The privilege classes such as artists who were interested in surrealism, art negro and primitive culture, the intelligentsia like Montparnass in Paris, accepted Hippie style faster than ordinary people did. therefor, Hippie style in france was represented as an esthetic mode not a symbol of anti-culture and anti-policy. The general public imitated the style of the privileged classes and coordinated their style according to their personality without any standard such as blue jeans, ethnic, psychedelic, mini, mods, beatnik, etc. Yves Saint Laurent who was influenced by hippies led the mode of Paris to introduce "Africa", "Saharienne", "Pathwork". therefore, in 1960's fashion in Paris, everything was possible because of too many changes in fashion and refusal of accepting vogue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.27
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• pp.5-16
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• 1996

In today's fashion Street is a birthplace of new generation fashion and Street Fashion have frequently influenced on high fashion. From this view point this study is a meaningful approach to forecast future fashion trend by examining the street style of youth who are regarded as Street Fashion leaders. The purpose of this study is to examine the Youth Fashion style in early 1990s and to pro-vide a reference to fashion designer and mer-chandiser in trend forecasting and product plan-ning. This study is focused on 1990s Youth Fashion style through the historical Street Fashion : 1950s Teddy boys & Mods 1960s Hippies & Skinhead and 1970s Punk. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. There were mainly two popular Street Fashion phenomena in early 1990s. One is grunge fashion created by new gener-ation in opposition to existing generation society and impacting on hish fashion leaders. The other is Remix style that is mixed : sub culture fashion originated by young group in 1950-1970s with 1990s sensitivity. Both fashion styles origionated and led by youth of street have influenced on famous high fashion designeres as well as the general public. Street Fashion will continue to play an import-ant role in future fashion and more study and interest on Street Fashion should be taken by fashion forecaster and related.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.45-59
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• 1997

This study, on the military fashion which has been inspired by the men's military uniform, is composed of an examination of the following; the aspect on the women's hi-fashion and the street fashion and the analysis of it's intention. On hi-fashion, from the 1960s to the early half of the 1970s, by the influence of the minimalism, maintained it's couture style, which is the formal image as well as moderating the line and simplifying the details, From the latter part of the 1970s to the 1980s, mannish image was sensed greatly by the wide shoulders with pads and large silhouette. The 1990's theme was the retro. Many different expression techniques appeared, but the trend was the retro. However, on the streets, young generation and hippies wore unisex army mode because of the influence of anti-war movement. Also, Hell's Angels, punks used black leather jacket with Nazi symbol, badge and eyelet expressed to show their aggressiveness as an avantgarde fashion. The intentions of military fashion can be analyzed as women's amazon need, the feeling of movement, and the spirit of rebellion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.39
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• pp.197-215
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• 1998

Vivienne Westwood, the revolutionary cre-ator of Punk fashion(ripped T-shirts, bondage clothes, fetishist accoutrements) was a street fashion designer. Although Westwood's clothes have frequently been described as decadent, degenerate and unwearable, they have also exerted a powerful influence on interntional fashion. Westwood became a fashion designer in the mid-1970s, when he emergence of Punk put London back on the fashion map for the first time since 1965. Just as the Mods, Rockers, and Hippies of the 1960s had embraced par-ticular styles of dress and music, so also did the Punks create their own subculture. The Punk“style in revolt”was a deliberately“re-volting style”that incorporated into fashion various offensive or threatening objects like tampons, razor blades, and lavatory chains. Vivienne Westwood and parter Malcolm McLaren articulated this youth culture, who roots lay in music. A sign is something which stands for some object or idea, while the semiotics are the ex-ternal expression for an internal meaning. Semiotics can be used as a medium of communication between dress and music. A language is simply used for explicit of meaning, while the style of dress and music express the explicative and implicative signs. Peirce's scheme among several theories of the semiotics was chosen for this study, because the Peirce's scheme was the first non-language communication medium between external and internal stages, and readily inter-preted the styles of dress and music. Punk rock was studied at first to identify the style which influenced Vivienne Westwood's works and then Semiotics were used to apply the above results to the 1970s and 1990s for analyzing and interpreting the Vivienne Westwood's works were also interpreted by the symbolic characteristics of Semiotics, because the symbol of semiotics often found at Youth Cults reflected punk rock. The symbol of revolt, decadence, grungy, freedom in Vivienne Wes-twood's works wre determined by using Punk rock's semiotics. This study could conclude that the style of dress and punk rock were able to be interpreted by semiotics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.173-186
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• 2002

Street Style, occurred in British and America, has been expressed the character of the new generation by repeating developments and changes. Nowadays, pop music reflects the phase of society. and simultaneously it has influence on from culture to society. Rock Music was rooted in Country 8l western of America. Upon Country & Western, Afro-Americans Rhythm & Blues was added, and that was the birth of Rockabilly. Rockabilly developed to Rock'n 'roll and it started to change to various forms of Rock since 1950s. As the commercial impact and the breakthrough of teenagers emotion, the rock culture comprised the base of the youth culture. However. it formed the anti-establishment culture against the established value, accepting working class subculture. The teenager culture was affected by the Rock culture, also found relief in the opulence provided by the established generation, imitating it as it was. Simultaneously, it had a contrary aspect as anti-establishment form under the banner of revolt against languor in richness. The youth culture created street style that was escaped from high fashion, every time Rock music had changes. Since Street style was based on resistance of established culture and it fully refused vogue, it was indifferent from high fashion. The results of this study were as following. First, every time Rock music had changes, the new youth culture was concomitant with, the youth culture created street style. Secondly, rockahibilly style was characterized as diamond shaped design, embroidery, extra wide shirt collar, vivid contrast color . Rockers style was represented as metal studs, beads, denim, leather jacket, boots. Fusion of hippies style and Psychedelic, long hair, beads. worn denim were elements of headbangers style. Punks style was characterized as ripped T-shirt. rooster hair, over decorated jacket, short skirt. net or plastic T-shirt. Lastly, the firm relation between popular art and fashion was proved by examining the history of Rock Music and Street Style.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to investigate the formative characteristics and the aesthetic values of denim dresses from the 19th century until the $20^{th}$ century and analyze those changes shown in Paris Milan London New York collections from 2001 S/S to 2013/14 F/W. The results of this study are as follows; 1) In the mid-$19^{th}$ century, the denim pants were working suits. In the 1920's, they started to be recognized as ordinary clothing and they were supplied to women in World War II. In the 1950's, denim pants stood for youth and resistance, and they became popular among teenagers. In the 1960's, hippies who protested against the Vietnamese War would wear worn-out denim pants symbolizing peace and freedom. As they became more common in the 1970's, people all around the world wore the clothes. In the 1980's~90's, the waves of high class brand fashions brought in sensualism, extravagance, reactionary tendency, and so forth. Consequently, the aesthetic values of denim dresses have connotations of practicality, resistibility, ornamentation and femininity. 2) Practicality in recent collections is represented in classic fashion which features typical details and raw denim and modern fashion which is made with glossy denim and minimized details. Resistibility is represented in avant-garde fashion which features deformed or over-layered jackets and pants with damaged denim and vintage fashion which is made with wash-out and wild stone denim. Ornamentation is represented in ethnic fashion which is made with wash-out denim and ethnic prints and romantic fashion which features details such as ruffle, frill and shirring as well as lace and flowery decorations. Femininity is represented in sexy fashion which designs to expose or to focus in women's body and elegant fashion which is made with soft and glossy denim and hourglass silhouette.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.122-134
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• 2007

Fine art and fashion have influences on each other since both of them are the part of a culture. The similar patterns of fine art and fashion can be found either in the same period or in the different time. To find out this fact in the forms or content, this study researched into the fine art and fashion of 1960s and into recent year's fashion to see the revivals. In 1960s, fine art and fashion laid emphasis on the materiality of material itself, therefore both fine art and fashion have the tendency of formlessness and disorder in form. It ran be said that the socio-cultural background of this phenomenon in 1960s was mainly caused by the young generation called Hippies. They became a large influential social group that has a huge impact on overall culture in 1960s. As a result, this study firstly found that the fine art and fashion had common formative features and content in 1960s. Secondly, fashion since 1990 repeats the similar features in form like the Post-minimal tendency in fine art in 1960s. The similar features can be described as: artworks have the tendency of the formlessness and disorder in appearances; various materials were newly used to form a work, which had never been used in traditional artworks; new methods such as hanging, layering and knotting were applied to show the maximum expression of the materiality. However, unlike the fashion of 1960s, the Post-minimal tendency in fashion since 1990s doesn't symbolized freedom or peace, or opposition to the war anymore. Instead, only the formative elements were revived and reproduced and the formless tendency became one of the recent fashion trends.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.21-30
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to research the symbolistic values of western beards' style in the twentieth century. Namely, it is to consider the relationship between social-cultural factors and aesthetic meanings of western beards' style. The contents are, firstly, studying the conception and the types of beard. A beard is the hair that grows on a person's chin, cheeks, neck, and the area above the upper lip. At the World Beard & Moustache Championships, there are moustache category (natural, english, hungarian, dali, fu manchu, freestyle), beard category (natural, musketeer, goatee, sideburns, freestyle), and full beard category (natural, garibaldi, verdi, van dyck, freestyle), Secondly, this paper is continued by researching the history of beard from the ancient to the present day, and thirdly, analyzing political dictatorship, social resistance and expression of personality, religious dignity, related with the change of world situation, the formation of postmodern anti-culture and pop-culture, and the coexistence of traditional culture. There are long and bushy full beards in some religions like Hinduism, Judaism and Islam. The meanings of their beards are purity, life and holiness. The beards of some politicians symbolize dictatorship. Namely, the chaplin of Hitler, the moustache of Hussein and the musketeer of Castro express strong power and charisma. In 1950s'-70s' subcultures, Hipsters' goatee, Bikers' horseshoe, Beat generations' goatee and Hippies' natural represent the lack of adaptability and social resistance. Also, the celebrities and artists like Ronald Colman, Clark Gable, Don Johnson, George Clooney, and Salvador Dali express freedom, personality, and taste with beards. For that matter, the symbolistic values of beards' style in the twentieth century are the religious dignity, the political dictatorship, the social resistance and the expression of personality. Today the beards' style is one of fashion items as well as a symbol of masculinity, customs and classes.