• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.88-97
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• 2014

For the purpose of reproduction of traditional gold thread, the artifact investigation was organized for 70 cases (109 pieces) of relics from Korea, China and Japan. In most cases, the main backside material of gold thread from Korea was the bast fibers from paper mulberry. In this study, the optimum sheet-making of Hanji for gold thread reproduction was tried by controlling several process factors of Hanji such as the cooking and beating time of paper mulberry fibers, the number of sheet-making ply, and converting method (Dochim). Tensile index, folding endurance and compressive strength of Hanji showed differences according to the correlation between cooking and beating time, and application of converting method (Dochim), while bending stiffness fell with decrease of thickness. These results can be applied to consider manufacturing factors to make Hanji for the production of gold thread.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.149-155
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• 2010

The advanced and complicated modern society recognizes image creation based on the identity of the global competitive age as the important means. The requirement for a new vision to the globally environmental problem has affected on design so that as environmentally-friendly products and technologies have been developed and original expression modes have been appeared which the medium of paper which is natural material, paper has been highlighted newly. Hanji made of mulberry fiber, a bast fiber of mulberry is a representative environment-friendly natural fiber. In addition, it has various functions similar to those of yellow earth such as emission of far infrared rays, antibiosis, deodorization, fast dry ability of sweat, and simple dyeing ability. It is Hanji threads that are produced from various processes of Hanji materials. Therefore, hanji threads are able to be both woven and knitted still remaining Hanji's excellent characteristics. In addition, it is light, bio-degradable, durable and washable, and it is an environment friendly product with the distinguished texture and sensitivity. Under the concept of 'Circle' designed the uniforms of music hall to inform that the uniforms as a media representing music hall represents the unique Sori Arts Center of Jeollabuk-do traditional style.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.80-90
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• 2016

The purpose of this study was to investigate the functional properties of natural dyed Hanji for cultural properties conservation and storage. To estimate functional properties of Hanji, antimicrobial, insect repellent test, and Oddy test were executed. Hanji dyed with 10% Golden thread (Coptis chinensis), a natural dye and silver nitrate mordanting showed the most excellent antifungal activities against A. niger, P. chrysogenum, and Trichoderma sp. before and after aging. The insects repellent test followed didn't indicate significant effects on treated Hanji against Lasioderma serricorne, Sitophilus zeamais, and Tribolium castaneum. According to Oddy test result, Hanji dyed with Golden thread and silver nitrate caused no significant corrosions on copper, silver, and lead after aging 28 days.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.11
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• pp.171-178
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• 2006

Recently more than ever, interest in Korean tradition has been on the increase, with an active movement to follow tradition. There are various merits for expression with the use of Korean paper as a clothing material. The purpose of this study was to assess the aesthetic characteristics of men's shirts fashioned using Korean paper (Hanji). The following conclusions were obtained from an analysis of the aesthetic characteristics of Hanji shirts. First, Hanji has a peculiar texture, with natural characteristics due to the direct use of naturally handcrafted materials. Hanji shirts have the natural beauty of pure Hanji, without artificial treatment or other subsidiary materials, with the exception of thread. Secondly, Hanji shirts with decorative details and trimmings, such as frills, pin tuck, embroidery and spangles, express an ornamental beauty. Thirdly, Hanji shirts with frills or a fringe have real movement when worn and spangles give the illusion of movement due to changes in color or twinkling caused by light giving the beauty of rhythmical motion. Fourthly, Hanji shirts produced using the application of various techniques, such as crumple, painting and dying, express artistic beauty. Fifthly, Hanji shirts can express traditional beauty, even if created whit modem designs, but using traditional materials.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.307-315
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• 2014

The gold textile is Korean traditional weaving technique using the gold thread since 5th century. The making technique of gold thread was written in various references, but it is severed because the gold thread weaving equipment and sumptuous moods were forbidden in the early 18th century. There are some studies of traditional gold thread which are mainly about conservation treatment of cleaning and strength. To restore traditional gold thread, investigation of material and manufacturing technique is vitally required. The gold threads are composed of gold leaf, adhesive and base sheet. Gold leaf and base sheet are available for investigation because they are exposed to the surface, whereas adhesive is not easy to investigate because it is not exposed to the surface. In this study, samples are made of pure and impure gold, animal glue and lacquer, and various types of Hanji based on domestic and foreign references to compare materials for gold threads. As a result of morphological character and stability evaluation, the optimum materials for the restoration of gold threads are pure gold, animal glue and Dochimji(smoothing paper by beating). This study is expected to be basic data for manufacturing gold threads techniques and modernization of traditional gold threads hereafter research.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.37 no.5
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• pp.525-535
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• 2021

This study identified material properties through scientific analysis on Jikgeumdan(satin with gold threads) from Donggungbi-Wonsam and the gold threads used in the embroidery. The Donggungbi-Wonsam's base of gold threads were estimated to have used mulberry fiber's Korean paper(Hanji) because non-wood-based fibers were observed. The X-ray spectrometer showed that the Tongsuseulan of Donggungbi-Wonsam was a flat gold thread of pure gold and Jikgeumdan of flat silver thread of its Saekdong and Hansam. High sulfur levels were detected in the flat silver thread, which appeared to have formed silver sulfide by either manufacturing process using sulfur or conservation environment. he dragon insignia's embroidery is also described as two types twisted gold threads; pure gold and alloying-gold and silver. while dragon insignia's border line is decorated with a twisted gold thread of pure gold. In particular, it was investigated that adhesives such as an animal glue, a protein-based compound by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Additionally, XRF and Raman spectroscopy analysis on the mixture substances between the metal surface and the base paper of gold threads identified talc and quartz in the gold threads and Seokganju(hematite) in the flat silver threads.