Journal of Conservation Science (보존과학회지)

The Korean Society Of Conservation Science For Cultural Heritage (한국문화재보존과학회)
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A Scientific Analysis of Gold Threads Used in Donggungbi-Wonsam(Ceremonial Robe Worn by a Crown Princess, National Folklore Cultural Heritage No.48)

동궁비 원삼에 사용된 금사의 과학적 분석

  • Lee, Jang-Jon (High Heritage Care) ;
  • An, Boyeon (Cultural Heritage Conservation Science Center, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage) ;
  • Han, Kiok (Raman Lab.) ;
  • Lee, Ryangmi (Seoul Museum of Craft Art) ;
  • Yoo, Ji Hyun (Conservation Science Division, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage) ;
  • Yu, Ji A (Conservation Science Division, National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage)
  • 이장존 (하이문화재케어) ;
  • 안보연 (국립문화재연구소 문화재보존과학센터) ;
  • 한기옥 (라만랩) ;
  • 이량미 (서울공예박물관) ;
  • 유지현 (국립문화재연구소 보존과학연구실) ;
  • 유지아 (국립문화재연구소 보존과학연구실)
  • Received : 2021.08.18
  • Accepted : 2021.09.27
  • Published : 2021.10.20
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Abstract

This study identified material properties through scientific analysis on Jikgeumdan(satin with gold threads) from Donggungbi-Wonsam and the gold threads used in the embroidery. The Donggungbi-Wonsam's base of gold threads were estimated to have used mulberry fiber's Korean paper(Hanji) because non-wood-based fibers were observed. The X-ray spectrometer showed that the Tongsuseulan of Donggungbi-Wonsam was a flat gold thread of pure gold and Jikgeumdan of flat silver thread of its Saekdong and Hansam. High sulfur levels were detected in the flat silver thread, which appeared to have formed silver sulfide by either manufacturing process using sulfur or conservation environment. he dragon insignia's embroidery is also described as two types twisted gold threads; pure gold and alloying-gold and silver. while dragon insignia's border line is decorated with a twisted gold thread of pure gold. In particular, it was investigated that adhesives such as an animal glue, a protein-based compound by gas chromatography mass spectrometry. Additionally, XRF and Raman spectroscopy analysis on the mixture substances between the metal surface and the base paper of gold threads identified talc and quartz in the gold threads and Seokganju(hematite) in the flat silver threads.

본 연구는 동궁비 원삼의 직금단과 자수에 사용된 금사를 대상으로 과학적 분석을 통해 재료적 특성을 파악하였다. 동궁비 원삼의 금사 배지는 비목질계 섬유소가 관찰되어 닥나무 섬유의 한지를 사용한 것으로 추정된다. XRF 분석을 통해 동궁비 원삼의 통수스란에는 순금의 편금사, 색동과 한삼에는 편은사로 제직한 직금단임을 알 수 있었다. 특히 편은사에서는 황이 높게 검출되는데 이것은 은을 사용하여 금빛을 내기 위한 훈증의 유황 성분의 영향과 보존환경에 의한 황화은이 형성된 것으로 보인다. 또한 용보의 문양은 연금사와 연은사로 표현하였으며, 용보의 테두리는 순금의 연금사로 장식하였다. 특히 본 연구에서는 금사의 금속면과 배지 사이의 접착제와 혼합물에 대해 GC/MS, XRF, Raman 분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 단백질계 화합물인 아교와 같은 접착제를 사용하고, 혼합물로는 편금사의 경우 활석을 섞고, 편은사에는 석간주를 혼합하여 사용하였음을 확인할 수 있었다.

Keywords

Acknowledgement

본 논문은 국립문화재연구소 문화유산 조사연구(R&D) 「유기질문화재 보존처리 및 조사」 연구과제의 일환으로 수행되었으며, 특히 2019년 문화재보존과학센터에서 발간한 『직물보존 I』의 수록 내용에 라만 분광 분석 결과를 추가하여 수정 보완한 것이다.

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