• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권4호
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• pp.633-645
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to develop brassiere patterns which are both fitting and functional for women aged 19 to 24(the 1924 generation). We suggested a 'size chart for body measurements' for constructing basic brassiere patterns with six sizes of '70, 75', 'AA, A, B cups', which are used most frequently by the 1924 generation consumers. The scope of research was in reference to the statistical analysis results of the Size Korea(2004) body measurements and the results of the data from the preceding research. The 'drafting method for constructing basic brassiere patterns for the 1924 generation consumers' was completed by selecting a total of 18 subjects, 3 for each six sizes in the scope of research, and three wearing tests were carried out with the subjects. We compiled one brassiere pattern in six sizes obtained with the drafting method of constructing a basic brassiere pattern on another by block pattern in order to observe the phase of change in dimensions and shapes of paper pattern. The result was converted into the variations of a x-axis and a y-axis, and we suggested 'Size Grading Rule' and 'Cup Grading Rule' for the basic brassiere patterns. As the results of the wearing evaluation of the basic brassieres and measuring the variation in body dimensions by wearing brassieres, the dimensions and shapes of the basic brassieres suggested in this research proved to be fitting and to have a wearing effect that brings together and supports the breasts.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1146-1157
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• 2005

As individual family has fewer children, market sectors targeting children's goods upgrade their products quality and price. Children's wear used to be for casual activity or going to school. Recently, occasions in which children are dressed up are getting increase, such as wedding, concert or family gathering. Therefore, the industry sector of formal wears for school boys are growing. The purpose of this study is to research and grading of formal wears for school boys to improve their fit and comfort. The selected items as formal wear were tailored jacket, tuxedo, tail coat and pants. Based on the grading increments of the industry, grading was done far 7 years and 11 years old school boy for each item. Like the pattern alteration, grading increments were tested and altered through wearing tests. The final increments were suggested as the 'researched grading increments'. The results and conclusions are: 1. Appropriate size allowance, ease amount and lengths for boys are different from those far adults. The difference should be applied for boy's wear. 2. Grading increments for an age group are different from other age group. For example increments of 7 from 9 are different from that of 11 from 9. It is because a certain part grows faster during a certain age whereas other part grows faster during different period. Therefore grading for children should reflect their growth rather than same size increments which is common in adult size chart.

• 복식
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• 제18권
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• pp.307-319
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• 1992

The Purpose of this study Gerber company AM-300 system of the automatic system of Producing the original form the automatic system of Producing the original form of "Jogori(a Korean Jacket)' and Grading by the usage of computers and find out its efficiency. In the result, the auther has found out the following facts and became confident on the facts; The AM-300 program of the automatic system enabled to produce the original form of 'Jogori' and Grading fitting in a short time and definately, and which indicated that the automatically producing system of the original form of 'Jorgori' and Granding is efficient. Even in the aspect of education, it has been acknowledged that there is necessity of using computers, the accumulation of techincs and technology based on traditions by cultivating professional designers, and computerization so that the composition of 'Hanbok' (Korean clothes) should be rational and scientific. In addition, advertisement and education on the traditionalism and superiority of 'Hanblk' are indispensable and absolutely necessary. Also, to succeed folk costumes rightly, the usage of computers is thought to be a way to effectiveness. So far in the study, only the automatic system of producing the original form of 'Jogori' and Grading through computers is emphasized on, however in the future, such an automatic system should be continuously supplemented, studied on and developed even in other various fields such as in pattern making, design, products planning, etc..

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제40권11호
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• pp.1-9
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• 2002

Nowadays, the use of apparel CAD system is important to the mass production of ready to wear Especially, computer-based grading is the most important process to improve the fitness of clothes and to reduce the time needed to make patterns of several sizes. The purpose of this study was to suggest a standard sizing system for junior-high school girls' lower clothes and to suggest a grading method according to the sizing systems. The subjects were 402 junior-high school girls of 13 to 15 year's-old. The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3㎝ and 4㎝ respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 4.5%, was classified 8 cases. For regular grading, two types of group were classified into 58-82/61-86/64-90/67-94 and 61-82/64-86/67-90/70-94. Among them, 61-86 and 64-86 size were adopted the basic size for the development of grading. According to the sizing system, hand-made patterns were manufactured. By measure of the each part of the slacks, new grading rule patterns were developed by each size. A new grading rule was different from the Moonwha grading rule. This result will contribute to clothing fitness of consumer and the amount of production.

• Journal of the Korean Association of Oral and Maxillofacial Surgeons
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• 제28권1호
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• pp.7-15
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• 2002

The present study was carried out to evaluate the correlation of metastasis and prognostic factors in squamous cell carcinoma of head and neck. Examination was performed on a series of thirty-seven patients who were confirmed to squamous cell carcinoma and its lymphatic metastasis by pathologist. Correlations of metastasis and other factors such as angiogenesis, histologic grading, and p53 expression and ras oncogene were studied. The depth of tumors was around 1 to 27mm. Twenty cases were more than 10mm deep, of which seventeen cases were shown lymphatic metastasis. Total score of histologic grading including keratinization, nuclear atypia, growth pattern and intensity of inflammation was ranged from 5 to 10 points. Of these factors, nuclear atypia with intensity of inflammation, and nuclear atypia with growth pattern was correlated with nuclear atypia each. For angiogenesis, number of new-formed vessels were counted 13 to 58 each. Twenty-eight cases were shown to lymphatic metastasis. No correlation with histologic grading and lymphatic metastasis was found. The results of immunohistochemical staining for p53 and ras oncogene revealed that positive cases were 16 and 22, negative for 21 and 15 each. However, both were not correlated with histologic grading and lymphatic metastasis. These results were revealed that angiogenesis was not correlated with lymphatic metastasis of squamous cell carcinoma arising in head and neck. Nuclear atypia with intensity of inflammation and dysplasia with growth pattern were correlated with histologic grading, which suggested that more careful and adequate advice is needed for effective treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.843-852
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to propose a computer-based grading method for men's formal wear according to the sizing systems based on the size and dimension whereby manufactured men's formal wear can be classified. The following procedures were as follows : 1) We surveyed the sizing systems and the computer-grading methods that have been used and presently practiced by the domestic garment industry of the ready-made men's wear. 2) Using the survey data of the domestic men's ready-made clothing industry and that of the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea in 1997, we proposed the new sizing and grading systems of men's formal wear within the framework of the Korean Garment Industry's directions and the data of the domestic men's ready-made clothing industry. 3) The suitability of the new grading systems to the domestic garment industry were put to a wearing teat. The findings were as follows : 1) Survey of the domestic ready-made garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing and grading systems. 2) The superiority of the grading system was been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in the testing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권3호
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• pp.391-406
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• 1993

The purpose of this study was to utilize of apparel CAD System by the classification of the basic pattern block in pattern making process. Gerber AM-300 CAD System was used for this study. The results form this study were as follows; 1. New shirts block were developed. 2. The sensory test was applied to evaluate the new shirts block for women by comparing it with Japanese Bunka shirts blouse pattern making method. According to a statistical analysis of the result of the 20 items on the questionnaire, the 19 items showed significant difference(${\alpha}{\leq}0.01$)between the two, with the new shirts block having higher scores. 3. A basic pattern block was selected by the design sketch. 4. P/D/S were enabled to be constructed directly from a block pattern. The drawing, deletion. duplication, and movement of all points and lines in the pattern might be made freely, and the split, pivot, and movement of the pattern, and the attachment of two patterns were possible. 5. Automatic grading of finished pattern have been developed by creation and modification of grading rules of block pattern.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권6호
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• pp.821-832
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to develop grading method of the basic brassiere patterns therewith, provide for 12 size's brassiere patterns and prove fitness of their's and shape. The collected data were statistically processed using the SAS 6.12 for Means, Standard Deviation, etc. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The basic sizes adopted at the first design stage (see fig.1-2) were 75AA, 75A and 75B each of which was designed as upper foundation basic pattern in reference to the cup size. At the second stage, each of the upper body foundation basic pattern was used to design lower cup, upper up, front panel and wing in their order(see fig.3-6). At the third stage, the other sizes were graded in reference to the three brassiere patterns (75AA, 75A and 75B) to produce 12 brassiere sizes(see Tab. 7-8). In order to develop the basic patterns of adult women's brassieres, 33 women were selected per 11 size combination(3 women per size combination), and then, their brassiere fitting was teated. As a result, the fronts of the basic patterns were found to have such problems as undone front center, poor levelling of upper cup's bottom line or lower cup's top line, poor shape of upper cup's outside top line and shoulder strip position. On the other hand, on the rear side of the basic patterns, the central part of the wing was slightly lifted, while the wing width and straps'interval did not befit the ful1-cup brassiere. The result of this first brassiere fitting test showed that the functionality and aesthetics of the basic pattern brassieres were more or less satisfactory, and thus, the problems were addressed for the second teat. In the second test, the aesthetics, breast-shaping effect and functionality of the basic pattern brassieres were much improved. 2. We were to present the final brassiere sizing system to extend the interior length of breast and the exterior length of breast on the basis of fitting test. Thereby, 75B$.$80A$.$80B$.$85A$.$85B's the interior lengths of breast were enlarged to 0.7cm, the rest size was enlarged to 0.5cm and the exterior length of breast was enlarged to 0.5cm regardless of sizes. 3. The upper foundation basic patterns of 75AA and 75B were presented and and the basic brassiere pattern and grading pattern were presented through to.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제7권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to observe the teaching method and cognition process in using the PAD, Lectra and Investronica pattern CAD system. It is necessary to gather information about apparel pattern CAD to enable clothing and textile educators to efficiently incorporate CAD into their curricula and to provide more substantial information. Interviews and questionnaires were used in the research and twenty four questionnaires were used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows: 1) Students thought that new technology such as apparel pattern CAD is important in the apparel industry, and they have a positive vision toward such innovation. 2) Student who study harder during in CAD class worked easily of all PAD, Investronica and Lectra system. 3) The most preferred teaching method is to small group instruction by the instructor and then having feedback from the instructor. 4) Students realized that they needed to take prerequisites subjects like clothing construction. 5) The most interesting step is the pattern grading system and the least interesting but easiest step is digitize for patterns in the Investronica system.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.749-758
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• 2017

The purpose of the present study is to develop a grading deviation, which is appropriate for the body type of women in thirties, by analyzing the three-dimensional body type. The materials for the study were adopted from the body measurement data of women in the age group of 30 to 39 years old, provided from Size Korea. By reflecting the factor analysis results using the three-dimensional shape measurement, deviations were derived. First, six factors influencing the changes in human body shape were derived as waist-hip length factor, bust-waist shape factor, back protrusion back shoulder factor, bust length factor, shoulder length factor, and frontal waist dart factor. The bust size and height, which can be easily utilized for the top original grading, were used for deriving a regression formula, and the deviation was set in accordance with the result. Second, by applying the deviation which reflects the changes in the body shape, the crimps which were generated due to the application of existing deviation were remarkably reduced, indicating that the grading of the present study is more fitting than the existing one. The deviation derived by the analysis of actual increase and decrease of body size was more fitting than the existing one. This was proved by actual wearing experiment, which represents the significance of this study.