• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제20권4호
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• pp.571-578
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• 2009

This study was to apply the measurement variations of each region of the body to the basic bodice pattern grading and to provide the clothing pattern fit for the human body. Grading variation used in the apparel industry was researched and new grading variation was proposed by analyzing the statistical data of body measurements. The statistical variation in body measurements was applied to set the optimum grading region and variation. Five sizes were used by split grading method and drawn with Bust Circumference and waist length based on the middle size. Differences between the grading pattern and the drawing pattern were analyzed by overlapping them and measuring each region. The measurement variations of drawing patterns between the sizes were very different from those of statistical data. On the other hand, the measurement variations of grading patterns between the sizes and those of statistical data were similar. In summary, the grading pattern by applying the measurement variations to the region of the body was superior to the drawing pattern drawn by the basic measurements for clothing fitness.

• 복식
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• 제11권
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• pp.5-30
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• 1987

This thesis attempts to contribute to analyze the methods of pattern grading which is in common fashion in America and Japan and to make the foundation for the basic technique of pattern grading fitting to Korean body shape. There are two types in pattern grading. The results are as follows: 1) The pattern grading according to body shape contains A, B, C, D, F, and G. A is suitable for the bulging part of a body and F is the most suitable for the general part of a body. 2) The pattern grading not depending on body shape has no relation to the quantity of grading in the size of a body but includes silhouettes or design details. The standards of its methods are as follows: a) by the part of body b) by the balance of whole pattern c) by adjusting to the mutual balance of besign details.

• 한국가정과학회지
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.13-22
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to develop pattern and grading method of slacks of adults women of standard somatotype to prove fitness of lower body shape. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: 1. the 4 pattern were compared by the sensory evaluation to choose which one is more appropriate to this research. The slacks pattern developed by modification from L method. 2. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the new slacks pattern have better fit than the traditional pattern. 3. The standard sized patterns were graded using Moonwha grading rule as a traditional one and the new grading rule. The new grading rule was developed by fitting the slacks which were made by traditional grading rule. 4. The results of the sensory evaluation have down that the slacks made by the new grading rule developed in this work have better fit than the ones made by the traditional grading rule.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권9_10호
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• pp.1048-1059
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• 2003

This study focusses pattern draft and grading of jeans for women in their 20s, who consume jeans the most. Pattern was drafted based on existing patterns collected from companies. It is different from the existing educational patterns. It suggests new sizing system for twenties referring to sizes used companies and grading rule and method. he results were as follows; 1. Companies manufacture 2-8 sizes and they referred to the Korean Industrial Standards, KS K 0051, for their sizing system. 2. Drawing method for Pattern of the study had following measurements for each part: in the case of waist circumference, front part was W/4+1.5cm, back part was W14+2cm, front hip circumference was H/4-1.5cm, crotch line was the crotch length (practical measurement), hip circumference was (upper crotch line length)/5+0.5cm, front crotch part was 2.7cm, back crotch part was W/5+2.7cm, knee height was (the length of leg)/2+6cm and the circumference of knee and the tip of pants were 40cm. Through the wearing test on the subject of twenties, researched pattern received higher ratings, especially in appearance than the existing pattern. 3. 5 sizes system was made referred to the sizing system of companies and National Anthropometric Survey of Korean in 1997 Grading rule for 12 grading points of front part and 13 grading points of back part was suggested. Results of wearing test on the graded patterns showed high ratings similar to standard size.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권1호
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• pp.111-125
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• 2007

By examining the existing Galot products in the market, we aimed to discover areas for new development and lay out the foundational system for establishing a database(DB) of their pattern grading. For the analysis, the team focused mainly on Galot in forms of casual korean traditional clothes, since they have the largest market share. The main accomplishments from this research are as follows. First, because adult females are the largest segment to consider in deciding the size system for grading, we selected three sizes that have to be compatible with the KS Clothing Standardized Sizing. Second, for basic pattern grading, we applied the reference size indicated in KS Clothing Standardized Size, and also used half dart sloper and dartless sloper. Third, we categorized designs according to the presence or absence of a dart, the structure of closure, and the shape of the sleeve and neck. We indicated the grading points with numbers and body area in Korean to make it easier for the users to understand when using the computer system and doing manual work. To further increase the user convenience, we provided diagrams for categorized designs, pattern grading layout, and a table for calculated grading points variation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.48-59
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• 2003

The purposes of this research lie in developing dress shirts pattern targeting adult males between 25-34 years of age and presenting the rules of grading according to the real circumstances of dress shirts industry. The findings of this research are as follows: 1. The surveyed companies kept different size systems ranged from 5 to 18. They kept different size systems each other, and the pattern making was conducted by modification of the collar size, chest size, etc of the pattern developed through each company's know-how. All the surveyed companies were using point method of grading. 2. The method of the research pattern was to adopt N/6+1(cm) for the width of the back of the neck. N/6 for the front neck, N/6+2 for the depth of the front neck, B/6+7 for the shoulder width, B/6+5.5 for the breast width, B/4+5 for the whole width (back), B/4+4 for the whole width (front), B/4+3.5 for the depth, AH/2+0.5 for the back arm hole, AH2+1 for the front arm hole. 3. The grading rule was made after classifying the sizes into 14 centered on the standard size 40. Through the wearing test of research grading rule, 1 found the suitability of grading size 36 and 43 satisfiable.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권5호
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• pp.771-778
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• 2009

There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with fatty body shape especially for them with abdominal obesity. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Middle-aged women slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the abdominal obesity. The subjects in this study was over $25kg/m^2$ of the BMI, over 85cm of waist, and over 0.8 of WHR. A total of 176 Middle-aged women satisfyingthem were enrolled. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The majority segment is 85-94 size accounting for the 11.36% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 11 size from three groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape and age specific grading rule. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.799-809
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• 2000

This study was designed for automated pattern drawing and grading a man's Durumagi, Korean traditional coat in order to reestablished and grade the pattern by Apparel CAD SYSTEM. For the study, AM-250 systems of Gerber as the computer and Macro program as the automated drawing were used. Also, PDS(Pattern Design System) was used for the grading of the original Durumagi pattern. Results were followings; First, the size data that could be standardized by reestablishing the pattern of a man's Durumagi by each size was presented. Second, The pattern was developed by each size. Third, new design was propose for mass production with the traditional design of the DURUMAGI Fourth, The time for making DURUMAGI pattern and the cost through the automated drawings by using the Macro program were reduced. Moreover, was presented the basic data for a ready to made garment like the Western garment. Five, A man's DURUMAGI by CAD System was graded that could be applied to ready to made Hanbok

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권6호
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• pp.1069-1078
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• 2001

Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to the measurements in a given size chart. The original pattern is graded and laid out for cutting before mass production. This study tried to classify body types for pattern grading of jacket by applying a concept of "drop"defined as the difference between chest girth and waist girth and the difference between hip girth and waist girth for pants. Data were collected through the stratified sampling method. 138 subjects were selected out of 1,290 subjects of our sample population. Findings were as follows : 1) For pattern grading of jacket, the cell with the chest girth of 96cm and the waist girth of 87cm had the highest frequency rate and body type was 87H type and the coverage of this type was 9.52%. Then, the size specification 87-96 was the center of distribution. H type had seven ones such as 72H, 75H, 78H, 81H, 84H. 87H and 90H. H type had 33 observations and frequency ratio of 26.19%. Same types could be graded up and down from the reference size for the age group. And this reference size became to the starting point for developing the grading system. 2) For pattern grading of pants, fatty types, H10 type had six ones such as 80H10. 82H10, 84H10, 86H10, 88H10 and 90H10. H10 type had 28 observations and frequency ratio of 20.29%. H6 type had 6 ones such as 84H6, 86H6, 88H6, 90H6. 92H6 and 94H6. H6 type had 27 observations and frequency ratio of 19.57%. If lower body types were classified as same ones, these types could be graded up and down proportionately.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.194-202
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• 2010

There may be some problems in size fitness for ready-made-clothes purchasers with Obese body shape. The purpose of this study was to improve the wearing comfort of Junior-High School Girls' slacks by setting grading points and developing grading rules proper to the obesity. The subjects in this study was over 23 kg/m2 of the BMI. The subjects were 124 Junior-High School Girls of 12 to 14 year-old. The results of this study are as follows: (1) The size intervals of waist girth and hip girth were 3 cm and 4 cm respectively. The sizing system, which had frequencies more than 5%, was classified 8 cases. The majority segment is 76-97 size accounting for the 11.29% of subjects. (2) The measurements on 8 size from two groups after drawing slacks pattern on them revealed that the changed values of slacks front and back on the grading point marked are differ, indicating that it is needed to apply body shape. (3) The evaluation on the appearance for wearing slacks showed relatively high score, indicating that the grading between sizes within each group was effective. The studies on the body size distribution on each obesity pattern and on the setting size system reflecting characteristics of each body shape should be performed continuously.