• 복식
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• 제64권2호
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• pp.98-112
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• 2014

Since 2010, Goth styles have risen rapidly in prominence as one of the major trends of fashion. This study intends to understand the Goth style shown from the modern fashion by examining its historically formative characteristics and internal meanings of the Goth style. With mystic attitude toward the medieval Gothic culture, Goth style refers to its reproduction over the cultural circles including music, literature and arts. From the result of the historical review, the formative characteristics of the Goth style may be divided into darkness, distortion, memento mori and bricolage. The historical review of the Goth style contains symbolic meaning of mystery, terror, escape and theatricality. After 2000, Goth style, in combination with factors such as postmodernism and human desire, has been established as the main trend of modern fashion, going with the popular culture. The formativeness of modern Goth fashion is the same as that of Goth style examined from the historic review. However, in modern Goth fashion, the symbolic meaning has the processes of the new: unconsciousness, kitsch, overthrow and popularity.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권4호
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• pp.127-138
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• 2011

The style which is created by grafting the characteristics of goth onto haute couture designer works is called 'Haute goth'. The purpose of this study is to analyze the modem Goth fashion style based on Goth's historical background and characteristics. Also, I investigated the aesthetic characteristics of haute goth style appeared from the work of haute couture designers. Goth means a member of East Germanic people who invaded and settled in the Roman Empire from the 3rd to the 5th century. Goth style had been developed to the medieval European architecture style or the literature style of 18th~19th centuries and later it was reappeared in the gothic band in the late 20th century. Goth fashion shows the characteristics of the medieval times and Victorian times mixed with punk and fetish style. Goth fashion is expressed with the images of fear, darkness, mystique, dandy and eroticism. 'Dark esthetics' is realized through black clothes, pale complexion and silver accessories. Many designers like Alexander McQueen and John Galliano designed 'haute goth fashion' in various ways. The characteristics of 'haute goth' can be summarized in four things. It creates new images, seeks various changes and pursuits newness. It upgrades a street look style gothic fashion to a luxury high fashion and the creative design with artistic value. It also shows an experimental sprit by using a unique shapes, silhouettes, different materials and extreme images or creating new combination through the mismatch of opposite objects or emotions. Although it is rooted in the past because of the influences by late medieval times, Victorian times and Edwardian times, it displays enough of future-oriented historicism designs.

• 복식
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• 제55권6호
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• pp.159-171
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• 2005

The Goth style arouses Medieval syndrome, nostalgia and decadence, considering that Goth style shown in the contemporary fashion rend, tradition and fantasy that appeared in transition of the 21st century. This study is based on documents related to real Goth festivals and events to grasp various characteristics of Goth street style. The Goth style shown in high fashion classified the style on the basis of characteristics of camp culture from the viewpoint of bottom up from non-mainstream to mainstream with catwalk as the central figure. Considering appearance of Goth, property of subculture after the 1980s as alternative subculture as well phenomenon of latter subculture. Also it was possible to grasp attribute of lifestyle shown in music and fashion code from the viewpoint that alternative subculture was in pursuit of individual personality and autonomy. As an alternative subculture, Goth that appeared in UK from the late 1970s to the early 80s is considered new lifestyle, which means the scene of modern underground.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.626-639
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• 2009

As the global trend of Retro combined with the tendency of individualism which respects dramatic change and diversity in the 21st century, Goth subculture of Korea developed into various popular styles. This study, noticing the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture and fashion trends, intends to examine the current fashion trends to analyze the various aspects of the influences of Goth to the Korean youth culture. To do this, various documents and numerous Internet materials on the Korean Goth culture are comprehensively reviewed, and the Goth look images of popular stars, photographs from fashion magazines and fashion collections are gathered, analysed, and classified into types, and the specific characteristics of these types are comprehensively analysed. According to the result of this research, Punk Goth look, departing from the sensational and aggressive style of Punk look, expresses sexy and luxurious images, while Romantic Goth look shows the brilliant and cheerful style by mixing the cute girlish image and the elegant feminine image of exaggerated details and voluminous silhouette. Avant garde Goth look parodies Goth image by using the dramatic effects of Goth images or is expressed in performances. Sexy Goth look, which reveals the sexual attractiveness of men and women much more assertively, tries to do suggestive representation and excessive exposure of human body. Dandy Goth look, which has the simple and modern line, expresses the calm and chic feeling by employing basic items with minimized details and coordinating unique accessories for accent.

• 복식
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• 제63권5호
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• pp.1-17
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• 2013

As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2013

Subcultural style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of membership. The Goth subculture has associated tastes in music, aesthetics, and fashion. The style symbolized the strong subjective subcultural identity held by most Goths and acted as the practical basis to demonstrate their commitment to the subculture. This study investigates the aesthetic and the style of Goth subculture in its heyday of 1980s which has continued to affect mainstream fashion and culture since its birth. In order to inquire the concept of subculture and its style, this study executes literature survey as well as investigates the images of street style magazines to analyze the visual elements. The stylistic and the aesthetic characteristics of Goth subcultural style analyzed in this study are grouped into four categories as follows: first, Victoriana, which embodies the fear of death and the nostalgia for the past using Victorian morning dresses and corsets, second, vampirism, in that some Goths who are fascinated by vampires are costumed in vampire figures to advocate diabolism and decadence, third, sexual ambiguity of male Goths which emphasizes feminine appearance in the pursuit of androgyny, and fourth, sexual fetish of female Goths which represents aggressive eroticism utilizing fetish paraphernalia.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제26권5호
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• pp.62-75
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to analyze the types of aesthetic characteristics and their expression methods in the goth style expressed with the sensibility of an illustrator, using the work of Toon Hertz as an example. As a research method for this purpose, previous studies and books were used to examine the components of fashion illustration, the concept and aesthetic characteristics of goth style, and the world of Toon Hertz's work. In the qualitative studies, Toon Hertz's works were collected and the characteristics of each component were analyzed. As a result of analyzing the aesthetic characteristics, Distortion appeared as the main element of the human body, and the human body was distorted through the method of combining the human body with animals, plants, and other objects. History was mainly expressed through fashion elements. Victorian clothing was predominant, the color was mainly black, and it was characterized by decorations, such as fancy laces, corsets, and shirrings. The screen layout and the object components appeared as the main components of mystery. Sensuality was a major component of the human body, and it emphasized decadent and sensual images of a woman sitting with both legs apart or placing her hands on her legs or chest. Fear was the main component of the human body, and strangeness and fear were created by omitting or removing parts of the body, such as women's arms, legs, hands, or eyes.

• 복식
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• 제64권8호
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• pp.20-36
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• 2014

This research aims to identify and analyze the expression elements and features of Goth style observed in clothing of unique characters in movies directed by Tim Burton, and to build the database on diverse features movie costumes, so that such data can be used to develop new fashion design. The research-classified features of Goth style into romanticism overturns Satanism, grief, and sensuality. The results are as follow; First, Goth expressed romanticism by reminding the gloom and fear of medieval times through the image of clowns, medieval knights, werewolves and vampires. Second, The costumes in Tim Burton's movies overthrew the rules in reality using flexible changes, ambiguity of gender, distorted human beings, half-man-half-beasts, and ghost images. Furthermore, the positive expression on characters in gloomy and fearful costumes showed the overturn of common idea and value system in a society. Third, Tim Burton created fear using the image of a live dead body, shape of a devil, shape of death. Also, accessories suddenly changed into arms in his movies. He expressed Satanism by positively describing satanic shapes and shapes meaning death. Next, characters in Tim Burton's movies are mainly losers, aliens or outsiders. Sorrow, alienation and darkness inside them expressed the sadness through embodiment of mean animals in darkness, masks, veils and extreme black costumes. Finally, Sensuality was rarely shown in Tim Burton's movies, but expressed in various ways including pursuit of new beauty in excessive exposure, skintight silhouette, suggestion on sexualized violence and frightfulness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.65-75
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• 2013

As a typical subculture, Goth exercises influence on our culture in broad areas. Features of Gothic style, such as dark aesthetics, images of death and fear, and erotic horrification, emerged as attractive themes to contemporary fashion designs. Based on the dark attraction of black color, Goth fashion creates mysterious and fantastic atmosphere as well as grotesque and horrifying mood. 'Hallyu' or Korean wave is a term to describe the phenomenon of fervently loving Korean popular culture. As the fast spreading Hallyu is strongly engraved through the visually conspicuous fashion, we can say that fashion plays important role in diffusing Hallyu. In addition, a number of analyses and researches on the Hallyu, including K-pop, have been conducted, while concentrating keen interest in fashion of Hallyu K-pop stars. Accordingly, this study is designed to examine relations between fashion of K-pop stars and Goth fashion after analyzing features of Hallyu and K-pop and contemplating Goth fashion. Namely, this study will analyze various Goth images shown in K-pop fashion, which is the core of Hallyu, and identify aesthetic features of Goth shown in the fashion of K-pop stars. An investigation and analysis of the Goth images shown in the fashion of K-pop stars identifies the following features : a black aesthetic, eroticism, defiance, reversal of gender identity, and mystery.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권2호
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• pp.163-179
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• 2012

Among diverse cultural types which can be shown in movie, 'Subculture' is young culture that resist to major culture. It shows its belief and identity via its own style. Their 'Subcultural Style' became popular with mass media and has been affected to major cultures. Therefore, in this research, with times background as postmodernism in end of 20th century and mainly with movie which is about sexual minorities, I analyzed categories of costumes in the movie. Hedwig's rock costume shows combined fashion with hippie, punk, glam, kitsch, goth styles from the impact of postmodernism in mid 20th century. Tommy, showed his relief and defiant intention against old generations with grunge casual and graffiti styles. After he realized Hedwig's identity and showed defiant goth rock style as a famous rocker. The band, "Angry Inch", showed dissatisfaction and cynical attitude against the American society through subculture styles. Through this research, the fact that movie costume used a tool to show human's identity and value. Also, I can see that movie costume shows times and cultural phenomenon in the end of 20th century and through this, it was confirmed that this contributes to crease new fashion style through them.