• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.6
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• pp.696-704
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• 2003

The main purpose of this study is to examine the gay men's clothing attitude and preference according to gender role, for reviewing their clothing culture. Specifically, this study focuses on 1) investigating gay men's clothing attitude(brand orientation, conformity, fashion leadership, sexual attractiveness), 2) identifying their clothing preference, 3) comparing the difference of lifestyle, and 4) comparing the difference of their preference color and wearing the accessary, according to their gender role. Futhermore, this study compares those factors between gay men and heterosexual men. The data was collected from 168 persons(76 gay men and 92 heterosexual men) in LGHRF(Lesbian & Gay Human Rights Federation), Korea Gaymen's Coalition and adult men living in Seoul. To analyze data, the methodology adopted in this study is frequency, t-test, and ANOVA. The results found in this study are as followings: First, sexual attractiveness was significant factor for the gay men's clothing attitude and not concern about conformity. According to the gender role, bottom, who have much of the woman in composition, was more higher for the fashion leadership than top, who have a propensity for masculine. Second, gay men prefer to masculine, simple and casual style. According to the gender role, 'top' was more likely to masculine, simple and formal style rather than 'Bottom'. Third, Gay men were much more concern about a cultural life style. Furthermore, a preference color for both group was blue. Especially, gay men tended to prefer a chromatic color. The implication getting from conclusion in this study was to study Gay men's taste for a fashion, clothing attitude and their preference to purchase, etc., in considering their buying power for clothing in a fashion market.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.101-120
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• 2016

The primary purpose of this study is to explore the daily lives of gay men and assess their interests in fashion and appearance management with the goal of better understanding the roles or meanings of fashion in their lives. In-depth interview method was adopted and the responses were analyzed qualitatively. Six homosexual men were interviewed, and the outcome of each conversation was recorded and analyzed; each man had a different background and thus showed different behavioral patterns. The life patterns distinct to Korean gays, the importance the highly patriarchal society places on family lineage and mandatory military service, for example, were discussed. Even though the interviewees asserted that their interests in fashion is not related to their sexual orientation, fashion was utilized as a means of self-expression by these gay men.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.1-18
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• 2012

This study explores the clothing behavior of homosexual men for identity creation. Since homosexuality has been viewed in terms of immoral, medical or social problems, gay males have made efforts to construct presentational styles in order to hide or reveal their sexual identities. Kate Schofield and Ruth A. Schmidt found that there were three different layers of individual gay identity construction expressed in clothing: shared gay identity, tribal identity, and situational identity. Using their framework, 630 gay men's outfits found in the U.S drama 'Queer as folk' were analyzed, which dealt with the lives of a group of gay men living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Findings point that gay males use their clothing effectively to express their sexual identity. Firstly, they use certain fashion items as the signifier of homosexuality on a gay community level. They use their clothing to attract the sexual partners. On tribal identity level, diverse and fragmented styles could be shown besides the effeminate style. Homosexual men's clothing can be classified into the following four dominate styles: the drag look, the macho look, the androgynous look and conventional look. Findings also indicate that gay males make different clothing choices for different situations in order to blend into the heterosexual or homosexual society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.69-83
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is considering about drag queen's costume in the point of view of anthropology and psychoanalysis. The contents are the meaning of drag queen by theoretical research and the characteristics of drag queen's costume. The results of characteristics of drag queen's costume are summerized as following. 1. Sexual originality is related with homosexuality. Costume express character of gay not as a transsexual or cross-dresser. 2. Imitation is related with identification of drag queen and famous star like actress, pop singer and historical heroine. 3. Amusement is related with drag queen's life style. There are two kinds of character in amusement. One is humour. Another is an exaggeration. 4. Commercialism is related with mass-media culture. Drag queen's costume have an influence with movie, advertisement and modern fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.131-147
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• 1997

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing " The Foundation and Manifestos of Futurism" Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in mani-festos on clothes. It was propagated in con-summate Futurist style through the written manifestos. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Cloth-ing in 1914 they believed continual renual of our today's clothes. Today's clothes is much our today's clothes. Today's clothes is much more simple than yesterday's clothes. The oppositions of the type between yesterday's clothes and today's clothes are mournful=play-ful melancolic-cheerful grey-colorful tradi-tional-emphemeral. Futurist men's clothing is aggressive agile dynamic simple and confor-table hygienic gay luminous volatile asym-metric ephemeral and variable. In general the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. They made dynamic patterns in textile design and asymmetric geometric cuts in pattern making. They suggested an unconventional matetials and strong bright colors and modificanti. These elements pointed the way to a shim-mering exuberant future.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this research was intended to investigate drag queens' and drag kings' gender identity not only as a comic and desexualized drag borrowing external characteristics of the opposite sex but also as the subject visualizing and performing' the third sex'. It also aimed to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion and to confirm the functions of drag queen's and drag kins's fashion to establish, visualize and Perform the discordant sex. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Understanding drag, drag queen and drag king in social, psychological context as well as in gender context. 2. Finding visualized forms which drag performance interchange with mass media 3. Analyzing similarities and differences between drag queen's fashion and drag king's fashion. 4. Examining the aesthetical characteristics and the value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion. The results of characteristics of drag queen's fashion could be categorized into stereotype, mimicry, kitch, inconsistency and commercialism. And the characteristics of drag king's fashion could be divided into reality, self-consciousness, mimicry, inconsistency, subversion and multiplicity. Drag queens create plausible impressions of feminity through the use of wigs, dresses, jewelry, makeup, hormones and through &role Playing&. Similarly drag kings produce a plausible masculinity taking gay male aesthetic using suits, crotch stuffers, facial hair, and greased hair. Male and female impersonation produce very different notions of gender performance for male and female embodiment. Drag kings' performance of masculinity demands authentic property of bodies so rather nonperformative, while drag queens' performance of femininity depends on more visible and theatrical fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.82-99
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• 2018

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics that appeared in the fashion and colors of exotic tastes used by Renoir with a view to re-evaluating his-attitude towards exotic tastes. The methods used in this study were literature research and analysis of visual data from Renoir's works. The results of the study are as follows. Renoir's exotic tastes originated from the material perspective appearing in the fashions and accessories of Algeria, Orient, Spain, and Japan. Parisienne Odalisque Lise in Harem-style, Jeanne Samari in parisienne fashion holding a Japanese fan, and Gabriel in oriental fashion were portrayed as major muses. The Algerian style consisted of white, yellow or red veils, thobes, loose pants worn in Haik, and burnous. The Oriental-style was composed of harem pants, turbans, hair accessories, ornate zouave jackets, and oriental ornaments. The Spanish-style showed gay ornaments, fitted red or yellow matador costume, red bandannas, black hats, and red dresses, plus Spanish guitars. The Japanese-style consisted of kimonos, accessories such as fans, and backgrounds with interior articles such as vases, wall picture frames, and folding screens. The exotic fashion colors were red, yellow and white. Renoir expressed the works with his delicate skills and sense of craftsmanship, and he even added creative design portrayals sometimes. He selected fashions and accessories of exotic tastes as objects and expressed the objects with materials and colors reflecting regional characteristics as such, he can be regarded as an artist wed to who fashions of exotic tastes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.63-73
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to be of use for more successful prediction of possible Prevailing aesthetic characteristics in the future, by reviewing how decadent features have actually been unfolded in fashion and make-up since the end of 20th century, as we are now in the new 21st century. The decadent traits of modern fashion and make-up since the late'90s could be listed as follows : first, the fashion has intentionally been designed to look disgusting, where realistic and imaginary images coexist, by using a half-man, half-machine image or vividly describing detestable animal skin, There have also been disgusting features in the make-up, which are so extremely weird that we can created by adding vinyl or pieces of textiles like Patch of the 17th century. Second, the satanic character of the fashion seems to be meant to keep in harmony with evil image such as Dracula, witch, skeleton or warrior of the evil, in order to charge the unnatural, inhuman and fin-de-siecle Phenomenon and find out what It really means for the inner world of men. And the demonic expressions of the make-up chiefly use white or black color or blue color of low saturation or low lightness, and part of facial features is exaggerated or shortchanged. Third, the decadent characteristics are expressed in the fashion by attaching sensational ornament to the human bode or using sexual exposure. So they give unnatural, unsound and extremely erotic impressions. The decadent features in the make-up are generated by excessively using a gay red color or sensational, exciting colors. Fourth, the exoticism of the fashion is largely affected by China's Chipaoh, Japan's Kimono or primitive motives from Africa, as there are increasing interests in Asia. And that of the make-up leans toward the East, as Kabuki make-up from Japan, Kyongkeuk make-up from China or the primitive features from Africa are employed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.115-125
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• 2020

Rider jackets were once reserved for military uniforms but have become an important styling item in recent fashion trends. The design characteristics of the rider jacket are rooted in symbolism, and the image associated with a rider jacket is in line with the challenging of authority and being a member of the rebellious youth subculture. Usually, young people with anti-social tendencies wore jackets, and some styles were used as a medium to express their emotional homogeneity, and they received favorable responses as the items represented them. The design characteristics of a rider jacket can be largely divided into resistance against the older generation, violence, challenging cultural norms, sexuality, and resistance, as well as embodying violent characteristics, including strength, courage. and male chauvinism. The reason for the development of these challenging characteristics are disparagement and anger of the lower class, who were excluded from mainstream society. Rider jackets can be viewed negatively due to the kind of message it is conveying against mainstream society. Among the sexual features were leather pants, short-length leather rider jackets, glossy metal accessories, and belt buckles, which also highlighted gay and decadent images that came to be associated with the jackets. The drapery created various kinds of wrinkles according to the way of dressing, and it had beautiful expressiveness while serving to express the body more beautifully. Drapery can be classified according to the aesthetic characteristics or expression techniques, and if the type of drapery is classified according to the morphological characteristics, it can be classified into variable and fixed structures, depending on whether the part to which the drapery is applied is fluid or not. In other words, it depends on the dressing method or the intention, and if the drapery technique is directly applied to the garment or is attached to the form. This fashion design proposal may have the greatest significance in that it sought to propose a new style incorporating a drapery technique with a strong feminine image to a rider jacket, which traditionally was associated with a masculine image.