• 한국의류학회지
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• 제17권2호
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• pp.197-206
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• 1993

We studied relation between the clothing pressure applied by foundations(waist nipper, girdle, body suit) on the waist of bodies and muscular activity, feeling of tightness. The main results were summerized as follows ; 1. Clothing pressure applied by foundations was high in order of girdle>waist nipper>body suit, also clothing pressure was higher back than front and side, sitting on the chair than standing posture, ventral flection than repose. Individual differences, even if size of body was equal, were shown in clothing pressure applied by foundations with subcutaneous fat's amount in measuring region. 2. The muscular activity of rectus abdominis than obliquus externus abdominis was more affected by foundations in all kinds of postures and motions. Amplitude of electromyogram was high sitting on the chair than standing posture, but there was little difference with motion variation. The wearing girdle strongly affected on the muscular activities of rectus abdominis and obliquus externus abdominis as compared with waist nipper and body suit. 3. The value for feeling of tightness by wearing waist nipper was higher than girdle and body suit. Also the case when sitting on the chair and ventral flection, the value for feeling of tightness was high. When the foundations were on the body, most tightened on the region of the body was anterior abdominal region.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권6호
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• pp.1008-1016
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• 2014

This study aims to analyze the changes in the mechanical properties of woven fabrics(cotton, linen, wool, silk, and polyester) by bonding fusible interlinings with varying deniers(10D, 20D, and 30D) for a 3D virtual try-on system(one that a user to try garments through screens using Avatar) developed over the last decade. We experimented with four mechanical properties and thicknesses of twenty-three specimens of interlining bonded fabrics including face fabrics and interlinings by using the KES-FB-AUTO system. The results showed that the tensile property increased(LT and RT increased and WT decreased) as the denier of the interlining increased; however, the change was slight. In contrast, the bending and shear properties increased significantly as the denier of the interlining increased on both the warp and the weft. This showed evidence that the interlining gives the fabrics size stability. The compression property was slight changed as the tensile property varies depending on the fibers and the denier of interlining. As expected, the thickness increased by bonding the interlining as the denier of interlining increased. From these results, we conclude that 3D users need to reflect these changes of woven fabrics by bonding interlinings when they try screen fittings to accurately express the fabric reality of manufactured garment.

• 복식
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• 제48권
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• pp.25-36
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• 1999

The purpose of the present research was to analyse for a sample of female collge students by Korean and American the preferred style of clothing with body cathexis. The respondents were 242 Korean and 145 American female volunteers aged 18 to 27 who were enrolled at Kwangju and Cathlic University of korean and Cornell University in the Unites States. The questionnaire was composed of three sections: body size body cathexis and the preferred style of clothing. Sixteen items of twenty-six items of the preferred style of clothing showed a significant difference between Korean and American. Korean students didn't like a bulky fabric and a bright color than American do. American students like a effect of accessories and clothing to emphasize my bust line and care about sleeve shape skirt length skirt shape than Korean do. Korean students were more dissatisfied with their body than American female students. There was a negative relationship between body cathexis and preference of tight skirt both Korean and American female students. There was a positive relationship among body cathexis and preference of outfit and preference of garment of polished silhouette by Korean female students a positive relationship among preference of fitted waist and design to emphasize bust line.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.31-37
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• 2005

Resulting anthropometric data recently measured and cataloged through 5th national anthropometric survey that is called Size Korea is highly useful in clothing industries. This study aims at suggesting a statistical methodology for apparel sizing that reflects recent changes in Korean anthropometry and improves customer fitness. Based on previous research on body types such as triangular, rectangular, inverted body types, etc., factors that represent human sizes were extracted and then clustered into groups by their body types. These body type-based groups with respect to the factors obtained yielded a sizing system of which the interval of each factor is of equi-distance by their factor scores. However, each interval of the sizing system is non-linear in terms of individual anthropometric variables. The sizing system being proposed in this study was compared to that of KS K 0050 and had a broader coverage for the Korean population surveyed. The apparel sizing scheme is expected to improve customer fitness when applied to garment sizing and to provide more information on what percentage of population is included in each classification.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권4호
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• pp.485-491
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze the wearing fitness of middle aged women's jacket with non-Stretchable Fabric and stretchable fabric. We surveyed the size of jackets and process of pattern making with stretchable fabric in companies which produce the clothing mainly for middle aged women. Based upon the result of process of pattern making, two kind of experimental jacket with non-stretchable and stretchable fabric were made. We measured space length between body and garment using 3D scanner and analyzed the clothing pressure 7 parts of body with 3 kinds of arm raising. The result were as follows : 1. Most parts of space length except bust were higher in non-stretchable jacket than in stretchable jacket. 2. Clothing pressure showed greater value with non-stretchable fabric jacket than with stretchable fabric jacket. Clothing pressure in upper arm point areas increased as the angle of the arm raising increased. Therefore, the sleeve width and armhole depth should he considered when the amount of wearing ease were reduced in jacket with stretchable fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.49-61
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• 2001

In this study, girdle wearing was surveyed on the female college students in Seoul and Seoul satellite cities. Data were collected by convenient sampling method, and sample size was 252 subjects in 18 to 29 years. Questionnaire was composed of 5 parts: experience of girdle wearing, the preference of girdle type, degree of dissatisfaction/discomfort in wearing girdle, wear sensation evaluation of girdle fabrics, including demographic and anthropometric data. The results of surveys are as follows: Experience of girdle wearing (season of wearing girdle, main intention of wearing girdle, frequency of wearing, body part to want to be shaped by girdle) was examined. Especially body parts to be shaped by girdle were in order of abdomen > hip > thigh > waist-hip sideline. Therefore, it would be considered that female college students want to care about the shape of abdomen or hip. The long leg panty type was most preferred among the girdle types. The reason of preference of long leg panty type was cost > easiness of putting on-and-off > shaping many body parts at once. For dissatisfaction/discomfort in wearing the commercial girdles, it showed in order of poor ventilation at sweating > static electricity with outer garment > difficult breathing due to pressure > deformation after laundering.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.67-80
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• 2002

An efficient torso pattern has been developed to cope with the future trend of order-based, individualized production like the E.C.(Electronic Commerce) in the apparel industry, and to make a database foundation of automatic garment pattern drafting. For this purpose, a non-contact three-dimensional anthropometric measurement system was used to provide a lot of accurate body data for better individual fit, and an automatic pattern drafting system that can easily generate various size patterns and construct a pattern database has been developed too. The subjects of this research were 18 to 24 year-old women whose data had been gathered through the Korean national investigation of anthropometry for industrial standards in 1997 and various body shapes were analyzed by the measurements. And a special software system has been developed to verify the validity of newly proposed drawing rules. The results of sensory evaluation for appearance and moving fitness of the new torso pattern showed a significant improvement in individual fit even for the figures with large deviation from standard shape compared with the results of the traditional one.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권6호
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• pp.1027-1037
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• 2023

This paper presents an efficient method for generating informative apparel fit comments by analyzing 122 fit reviews found in 7 menswear patternmaking textbooks, which include both domestic and foreign sources. The fit reviews for menswear were categorized into top and bottoms, and the expressions varied based on body parts, causes, and fit issue appearances. The causes of fit issues could be attributed to size errors and structural errors in both top and bottoms. Both top and bottoms had fit reviews concerning unique body types, but it could cause trouble among learners as both were based on unclear criteria for body type classification and lacked relevant explanations. Common fit issue appearances included compound wrinkles, pulling wrinkles, sagging wrinkles, and garment being away from the body. No clear correlation was observed between the causes of fit issues and specific appearances. Limitations were identified in using textbooks as educational data, such as inconsistent solutions for different body types or fit issues, and the presence of ambiguous visual materials. As a result, strategies such as categorizing fit issue appearances, providing 3D visual examples with subcategorized causes, body types and parts could enhance quality of fit reviews and improve fit outcomes in clothing production systems.

• 한국컴퓨터정보학회논문지
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.99-110
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• 2022

본 연구는 일반적인 체형의 여성과 구분되는 특징을 가지고 있는 플러스 사이즈 여성을 대상으로 상반신 의류 제작의 기초가 되는 보디스 원형을 개발하고자 한다. 이를 통하여 비만 인구의 증가로 시장이 활성화되고 있는 플러스 사이즈 여성 의류 개발의 기초가 되는 자료를 제공하고자 한다. 1차 외관 및 의복압 평가를 통해 옆목점 이동, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가, 앞처짐분 추가 등의 패턴을 수정하였다. 2차 평가를 통해 옆선 수직, 뒤중심선 목부분 들뜸, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가 등을 수정하였다. 3차 평가를 통해서는 옆선의 수직 분량 추가, 뒤진동다트 분량 추가를 통해 최종 패턴 제도법을 개발하였다. 20대 플러스 사이즈 여성 체형의 경우 복부의 돌출로 옆선의 설정 및 밑단의 설정 방법에 일반 체형과 구별되는 제도법이 요구되었다. 본 연구는 20대 플러스 사이즈 여성의 체형에 적합한 보디스 원형 제도법을 제시하였다는 점에 그 의의가 있다. 후속 연구에서는 실제 의복 제작을 통한 착용감 평가가 이루어져야 할 것으로 생각된다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.834-848
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the research trends and to find a future direction in the area of clothing construction in Korea. The data were included articles on clothing construction published in the five major journals from 2000 through 2008 in Korea. The identified 513 articles were categorized in eight areas: design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing and the others. In the results of examining the percentage of articles on clothing construction among articles published in each journal, the percentage of articles on clothing construction was highest as 21.2% in the Journal of Korean Home Economics and next, 19.3% in the Research Journal of the Costume Culture. As to the percentage of research on clothing construction according to theme, research on protective clothing and functional clothing were largest as 28.2%, and next, research on body types as 18.9%, and research on garment size systems as 10.5%. Research on protective clothing has increased remarkably since 2000, and particularly in 2004 it was so active that it occupied 44.1% of research on clothing construction. Next, with regard to the subjects of research, research with female subjects was more frequent than that with male subjects according to gender, and research with men and women in their twenties was most frequent according to age. These results show somewhat unbalanced tendencies in terms of research subjects.