Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.43
no.3
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pp.327-348
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2019
Among the many methods to make sustainable garments, convertible garments have the potential to change style and function that allow consumers to keep and use garments longer with the possibility of enhancing sustainability. This research analyzes consumer preferences in changeable design options for convertible dresses and the consumers' influence on environmentally responsible apparel consumption (ERC) behaviors on their preferences regarding changeable design options of dresses, which are popular items. An online survey collected data from a convenient sample of 321 female college students from four universities in the United States. Data were analyzed using IBM SPSS through descriptive analysis, cluster analysis, and independent samples t-test. There were significant differences between high and low ERC groups in design preferences that considered important aspects of purchasing, using convertible dresses, and purchase intentions. Detailed differences among sub-groups were analyzed. Designers are encouraged to make tying/folding/wrapping dresses with changes of size/fit, dress length, or color/pattern. The results are beneficial for apparel designers when developing convertible dresses with the guidance of consumers' design preferences and differences according to ERC levels.
Lee, Heeran;Hong, Kyunghi;Kim, Yang Weon;Park, Se Jin
Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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v.16
no.1
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pp.1-10
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2013
The purpose of this paper is to investigate the adequate clothing pressure of upper and lower body foundation garment and subjective assessment of those compressive foundation depending on various wearing conditions. Eighteen women in their 30s and 40s participated in the experiments for this study to evaluate the level of clothing pressure of girdle and waist nipper. Subjects were divided into two groups by the wearing habits of foundation, one is the group of wearing foundation garment 'tightly' and the other is 'loosely', It was found that the group wearing foundation garment 'loosely' was much more sensitive than the group of 'tightly' in everyday life. The adequate pressure of upper foundation, waist nipper was about $1.5{\pm}0.8$ kPa which is lower than that of the lower body foundation, girdle. And at the same time, the sensitivity of the pressure level was higher when subjects are wearing waist nipper compared with wearing girdle. Therefore, precise pattern making process is necessary to meet the adequate level of pressure of the upper body foundation such as waist nipper, specially for those who used to wear clothing loosely.
This study was conducted to evaluate the differences in external appearances and functional qualities between the slacks which were patterned on existing designs and on a new design in order to improve on their level of comfort of ready-made clothes for abdominally fat women. Five abdominally fat women in their 60's were chosen as experimental participants. Twenty-four external evaluation items, and seven different actions involving six moving parts of the body were investigated with a 5-level scale in the repeated wearing test. The results were analyzed by statistical methods. The newly designed pattern in this study was definitely superior to the other two patterns(L-type and K-type) on the external appearance evaluation. The newly pattern removed a waist belt and a dart from the front part of the garment and gave surplus space around the waist. It prevented superfluous wrinkles at the abdominal region and thighs. The superfluous wrinkles at the side regions also disappeared due to the length (inseam) reduction from waist to crotch. The newly pattern made the center-line of the back side slightly sloped to the main pattern in order to remove the drooped line. The newly pattern showed the highest score in the functional test of several actions. It was due to the reduction of the length from waist to crotch as well as the belt width. It made waist-line movement better, and made it easier and more comfortable to sit down. The newly pattern also showed the highest score in the functional test classified by specific movements of parts of the body for the same purpose. The slacks which were made of elastic materials showed better results than the non-elastic ones on external appearances and functional test items. It showed that the elastic materials played a better role in the increase of functional action of abdominally fat, aged women. This study suggests that the newly designed slacks pattern could give abdominally fat, aged women better external features and a more comfortable fitting sensation. As well, the results were significant as basic data to produce ready-made and/or tailer-made garments.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.20
no.2
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pp.73-87
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2018
As men in their 30s are spending more money on clothing, it is becoming increasingly important to first conduct an anthropometric study and then develop garment patterns accommodating the changes found in body sizes and types of men in their 30s, in order to effectively address their fit dissatisfaction. Thus this study aims to explore changes in upper body sizes and body types of men in their 30s, which provide basic measurements for designing major garment items including jackets and shirts. To this purpose, key anthropometric dimensions of the upper body of men in their 30s, taken from the 6th (2015) and 7th (2016) surveys conducted by Size Korea, were analyzed using SPSS 24.0 for Windows. Independent sample t-tests were conducted on major upper body sizes to track changes with measuring time. Factor and cluster analyses were used to classify body types. By comparing the two surveys, it was found that the overall body sizes of men in their 30s were increasing in height-related items, circumference, thickness, and width, -as well as body weight and BMIs. Upper body height-related items, in particular, showed a higher average value in the 6th survey than in the 7th, indicating that the overall body types of men are becoming "westernized" with longer legs and shorter torso. Finally, five factors were derived to determine the typical upper body types of men in their 30s and the body types were classified into three categories according to the cluster analysis. First, those with a relatively small build with short stature and torso. Second, those with the highest stature and vertical dimension with the smallest torso volume and least body fatness. Third, those with the biggest torso volume and most body fatness with bigger width between armpits and shoulders. The distributional pattern analysis showed that men in their 30s tend to have increasingly higher stature but lower body weight and BMIs than in the past, implying that their body types are becoming close to those of men in their 20s.
Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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v.25
no.6
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pp.183-191
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2020
In this study, in order to obtain basic data on the development of a new hanbok skirt pattern for developing a customizing system, a new hanbok brand skirt pattern was compared and analyzed. After analyzing the patterns of six new hanbok brands, virtual simulation was performed to evaluate the appearance, clothing pressure, and airgap. As a result of analyzing the waist skirt patterns of commercial new hanbok brands A, B, C, D, E, and F, it was found that they were produced in different dimensions despite the free size skirt of the same design. The pattern of new hanbok waist skirt was composed of a flat pattern like the traditional hanbok. As a result of appearance evaluation, it was evaluated that there were significant differences between the patterns of the six brands in all the evaluation items on the front, side, and back. In the appearance evaluation, it was evaluated that the waist skirt of the B brand was excellent. As a result of examining the color distribution and airgap, it was evaluated that the airgap was large in most parts due to the characteristics of the waist skirt worn around the waist, and the garment pressure was low. In this paper, we propose a basic data for standardizing dimensions and patterns according to activation New Hanbok. It is thought that a unified pattern development based on the B brand pattern should be made.
Journal of the Korea Society of Computer and Information
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v.26
no.4
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pp.119-131
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2021
In this study, I compared the pattern design method of classic shirts focused on the men's clothing consturction textbook. It was intended to select a shirt pattern drawing method suitable for men in their 20s by conducing a appearance evaluation with a 3D simulation program. Pattern drawing method, sizes, appearance evaluation, garment pressure. were evaluated, and SPSS 26.0 program was used for analysis. According to the Pattern drawing method, there were differences in application sizes, and there were many parts where designated sizes were applied. The shirt pattern is mostly the same for the front chest and back chest, front waist and back waist. However, if there is a front and back difference of the chest and the waist circumference, the fit was considered better. B pattern was evaluated as the best in appearance evaluation, color distribution, and mesh condition through 3D simulation, and B pattern was analyzed as the most suitable method for men in their 20s. Since this study applied the average sizes of the 7th Korean Human Body Dimension Survey report in 20s, it is thought that caution should be paid to apply them to all 20s. In the future, it is also thought that research on the actual fit and patterns of various body types and materials in their 20s should be carried out.
This study develops an optimal two-dimensional (2D) pattern from three-dimensional human scan data by considering the cycling posture and dermatome of high school male cyclists. By analyzing the body surface change in the cycling posture and considering the dermatome of the lower limbs, the optimal cutting line setting and the development of cycling tights for individual cyclists were presented to provide data that could be used in the clothing industry. We designed three cycling tights to solve the size unsuitability. 3D design 1 is a non-extension design based on the analysis of the 3D human body scan data, in which parts were connected diagonally from the front of the knee to the back of the knee. 3D design 2 removed both the front and back to reduce air resistance during cycling. 3D design 3 did not have a cutting line on the front panel because of the air resistance during cycling in the front area. We analyzed the garment pressure for 8 points of lower body and performed a subjective evaluation of the 3D designed tights and the current cycling tights. The 3D design 1 in this study was well received in the omphalion, thigh, and hip area, while 3D design 3 was well received in the omphalion, thigh, hip, and bottom bands. Therefore, the LoNE of 3D design 1 was applied to the front, and the hip cutting line of 3D design 3 was applied to the back.
The purpose of this study is to analyze the ease of stretchable jackets which has been common since the mid-1990s and the whole actual conditions in making the lining fabrics. This can be done by investigating the actual conditions of domestic clothes businesses about the consumers. The outcomes of this study are as follows; The result of the survey in the differences of the ease between regular and stretchable fabrics shows that the pattern of designing stretchable fabrics needs diminishing the width of shoulder is 0.42cm, the whole girth chest is 1.83cm, the whole girth of waist is 0.88cm. It also shows that designing the ease of the whole girth of chest is 1.91cm to 2.54cm in the regular lining fabrics and is from 0 to 1.27cm in the stretchable fabrics more than the right side of fabrics. The ease of the whole girth of waist is similar to the round chest, in which the bottom sweep for garment is almost equal to the right side of fabrics in both regular lining fabrics and stretchable fabrics. The result of investigating the actual conditions of making the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics shows that 80% of a woman's wear brand produces and gives the pattern of the lining fabrics only for the special designing to the cooperative clothes manufactures. The business which always provides the patterns for the lining fabrics in the main office is only limited to 20%. Also, it shows that using the lining fabrics of stretchable jacket fabrics and regular lining fabrics together is 46.7%, the stretchable lining fabrics is 40% and the regular lining fabrics is 13.3% only.
This study is based on a representative body shape drawn from previous studies that classify adult male torso shapes. In this study, a design method is proposed by developing a tight-fit pattern that can be easily developed into various items and designs using the body surface development figure. This is obtained by converting the 3D body shape of the model representing the representative body shape. The specific design method was conducted as follows. Actual measurement values were used for waist back length, waist-to-hip length, shoulder length. The scye depth was determined as C/4-1.7 cm, and the front and back Interscye was set at (1/2 × actual measurements)-0.2 cm. The front-back neck breadth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.3 cm and (1/5 × base neck circumference) cm. The front-back neck depth was set to (1/5 × base neck circumference)-1.2 cm and 3.5 cm. Front chest circumference was C/4-1 (front-back difference)cm; (1/4 × back chest circumference) was C/4 + 1 (front-back difference) + 0.3 (dart amount) cm. Front waist circumference was W/4-0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.2 (dart amount) cm; back waist circumference was W/4 + 0.2 (front-back difference) + 2.5 (dartamount) cm; front hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease) + 0.2 (front-back difference) cm; and back hip circumference was H/4 + 0.2 (ease)-0.2 (front-back difference) cm; Front droop was 1.6 cm. The newly developed tight-fit pattern is expected to be of great use as a basis for garment construction.
Symbolism found in a certain object inherits characteristics from the culture that contains the objects. The purpose of this study was investigate the formative beauty of Korean trousers twisted the pieces together based on the way of Korean thinks and the Topology. The shape is formed by cutting from the fabric. From the perspective of semiology, the fabric and the pattern shape correspond to ground and figure. Ground and figure are identical with the principle of the whole and the part, which is the same in Korea, China, and the West. But In Korea, the 3-dimensional garment is made by adding a twist. This is very important and defines the difference in the way of thinking and topology. Korean trousers consist of three parts : Hury, Marupok, and Sapok. The small Sapok can be made by removing the Marupok and large Sapok (figure) from the fabric (ground) when making Korean trousers. A Mobius strip is made when the large Sapok is adjoined with the small Sapok by reversing the small Sapok, making a 180$^{\circ}$twist and then stitching together. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi. thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strop. The theory of Mobius strip can be applied in Joining Bajiburi, thus when the trousers are completed the Klein's bottle is seen because of the 2 existing Mobius strip. Hury is cylinder while the small and large Sapok make up the Mobius strip. As a result, Mobius strip, Kleins'bottle, protective plan can be applied in cutting Hanbok used in the countryside, so I have come to see that the traditional Korean way of thinking is closely related to the theory of topological.
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