• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제19권5호
• /
• pp.626-634
• /
• 2017

This study investigated garment formability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear garment and their fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Predicted garment formability from the mechanical properties measured using KES-FB and FAST systems was compared and discussed with fabric structural parameters. In addition, virtual 3D simulation silhouette by I-designer CAD system wear appearance by simulation using 3D CAD system. And compared with FAST finger chart by mechanical properties of FAST system. The correlation coefficients of extensibility and shear modulus between KES-FB and FAST systems were high, however, bending rigidity and compressibility showed relatively low correlation coefficients. The correlation coefficient of garment formability of breathable fabrics between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.82. It revealed that garment formability can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties by KES-FB and FAST systems. The garment formability of nylon breathable fabric was higher than that of PET one, and the garment formability of laminated breathable fabric showed the highest value compared to coated, dot and hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. It revealed that garment formability of breathable fabrics for sports-wear can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties and garment formability was dependent on the materials, finishing method and fabric structural parameters.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제22권4호
• /
• pp.515-522
• /
• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제20권1호
• /
• pp.83-92
• /
• 2018

This paper investigated garment formability and fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics according to the thermal treatment methods. One-way and two-way stretch fabrics were woven using 75d and 150d PET/spandex covering yarns and then these were wet thermal treated with four kinds of finishing machines. The fabric mechanical properties of these stretch fabrics specimens were measured and compared with the regular PET fabrics. The stretch ratio of one-way stretch fabric was ranged 12 to 26 percentage, 15 to 45 percentage for 2-way stretch fabrics and 4 to 10 percentage for regular fabrics. Garment formability of stretch fabric was superior than that of regular fabrics, in addition, 2-way stretch fabric was better than one-way. The garment formability of the stretch fabrics treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines showed the highest values, and the stretch ratio of these 2-way stretch fabrics was also the highest, which was ranged 20 to 45 percentage. This phenomenon was assumed to be due to high extensibility and bending rigidity with low shear modulus of the 2-way stretch fabric treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines. It was shown that the garment formability of stretch fabrics treated without dry thermal treatment was higher than that of dry thermal treated fabrics. It revealed that high stretch fabric was available under the condition of low process tension in the wet and dry thermal treatments of the finishing process, which makes high garment formability.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제41권6호
• /
• pp.1098-1108
• /
• 2017

This paper investigated stretchability with fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics. For this purpose, 1-way and 2-way woven fabrics were prepared using 150d PET/spandex covered yarns with different thermal treatment according to 4 kinds of wet thermal machines subsequently, fabric mechanical properties were measured and compared with regular PET fabrics. In addition, the garment formability of stretch fabrics was predicted and compared to regular fabrics according to wet thermal treatment. The weft stretchability of 2-way stretch fabric was about 10% higher than the 1-way stretch fabric. The compressibility of the stretch fabrics was 1.5 times higher than regular fabrics. The compressibility of stretch fabrics treated with CPB and rope type wet thermal machine showed higher values than other types of wet thermal machines. The bending rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was lower than 1-way stretch fabric. Shear rigidity of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than 1-way and regular fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabric was higher than regular and one-way stretch fabrics. Garment formability of 2-way stretch fabrics treated with wet thermal conditions under low tension showed the highest values.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제21권5호
• /
• pp.597-605
• /
• 2019

This paper examined the garment formability and appearance of perspiration absorption, fast dry, and breathable fabrics. The mechanical properties and seam pucker properties of these fabrics were measured and regression analysis was conducted between fabric structural parameters and their mechanical and seam pucker properties. The superior total appearance value (TAV) of fast dry knitted fabrics for sports-wear was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and bending rigidity; consequently, it increased with increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The formability of the fast dry knitted fabric also improved with an increasing stitch density and tightness factor. The seam pucker was influenced by bending rigidity and a good seam pucker was exhibited in the fast dry knitted fabrics with low stitch density and tightness factor. However, the formability (F) of the breathable fabric improved by increasing extensibility and bending rigidity that decreased with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric. In addition, seam pucker deteriorated with an increasing cover factor and the thickness of the breathable fabric, which was similar to the results of the formability predicted in fabric mechanical properties. A superior seam pucker was achieved in fabrics with high extensibility and low bending rigidity.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제11권1호
• /
• pp.123-129
• /
• 2008

본 연구에서는 PET 직물의 물성개선과 품질의 향상을 위해 직물 제조 공정 중 제직준비공정인 ITY, P/W, 2-for-1공정에서 여러 가지 공정인자의 변화를 주어 염색 가공 공정을 거친 최종 11가지 직물의 역학적 특성치 및 각 공정별 시료의 물성을 측정하여 직물의 감성특성인 Handle, 의복성능 및 봉제성을 평가하여 직물 제조 공정특성이 직물 감성에 미치는 영향에 대해 분석하였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제19권3호
• /
• pp.344-352
• /
• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제22권7호
• /
• pp.807-815
• /
• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제40권2호
• /
• pp.305-314
• /
• 2016

This paper investigated the applicable possibility of PTT and wool staple fibers to the air vortex system as high quality yarns for a high emotional and comfort garment. It was found that the tactile hand of vortex yarn knitted fabrics was harsher than ring and compact yarns knitted fabrics. It was observed that formability and sewability of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics seemed worse than ring and compact yarns due to low tensile and compressional resilience and high bending and shear hysteresis of air vortex yarn knitted fabrics. It revealed that wicking and drying rates of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were better than ring and compact yarns; in addition, the heat keepability of vortex yarn knitted fabric was higher than ring and compact yarns due to low thermal conductivity and max heat flow rate ($Q_{max}$). Any difference of thermal shrinkage between air vortex and ring yarn knitted fabrics was not shown, but pilling characteristic of air vortex yarn knitted fabric was superior. However, it was shown that wicking, drying, thermal property and pilling characteristics of air vortex yarn knitted fabric were superior due to air vortex yarn structure with parallel fibers in the core part and periodical and fasciated twists in the sheath part of the yarns.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제10권4호
• /
• pp.623-629
• /
• 2007

최근 호주의 CSIRO에서 개발된 고광택 wool 섬유인 "옵팀"$^{(R)}$ 이 수입되어 고감성의류 제조에 산업화 되고 있다. 그러나 "옵팀"$^{(R)}$ 섬유의 가격이 너무 비싸 소재수급이 원활치 못한 실정이다. 본 연구에서는 호주에서 개발되어 상용화되고 있는 기술인 $Optim^{(R)}$ wool 연신기술과는 다른 물빨래가 가능하며 광택이 있으며 낮은 생산 코스트를 가지는 소모연신사를 개발하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 이를 위해서 연신사가 개발된 연신기계를 이용하여 만들어지며 이를 사용하여 고감성직물을 제직하였다. 이들 직물시료의 여러 가지 물성을 측정하고 의류의 봉제성과 의복형성성능과 같은 의류의 특성이 분석되었다. 이 연구를 통하여 마지막 목적인 옵팀섬유와 같은 고광택을 가진 소모 연신사를 사용하여 고감성직물을 만드는 것이 이루어졌다.