Browse > Article
http://dx.doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2017.19.5.626

Mechanical Properties and Garment Formability on Breathable Fabrics for Sports-wear Garment  

Kim, Hyun Ah (Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.19, no.5, 2017 , pp. 626-634 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study investigated garment formability of the 73 breathable fabrics for sports-wear garment and their fabric mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Predicted garment formability from the mechanical properties measured using KES-FB and FAST systems was compared and discussed with fabric structural parameters. In addition, virtual 3D simulation silhouette by I-designer CAD system wear appearance by simulation using 3D CAD system. And compared with FAST finger chart by mechanical properties of FAST system. The correlation coefficients of extensibility and shear modulus between KES-FB and FAST systems were high, however, bending rigidity and compressibility showed relatively low correlation coefficients. The correlation coefficient of garment formability of breathable fabrics between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.82. It revealed that garment formability can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties by KES-FB and FAST systems. The garment formability of nylon breathable fabric was higher than that of PET one, and the garment formability of laminated breathable fabric showed the highest value compared to coated, dot and hot melt laminated breathable fabrics. It revealed that garment formability of breathable fabrics for sports-wear can be predicted from fabric mechanical properties and garment formability was dependent on the materials, finishing method and fabric structural parameters.
Keywords
garment formability; KES-FB; FAST; breathable fabric; laminate;
Citations & Related Records
연도 인용수 순위
  • Reference
1 Barndt, H., Fortess, F., Wiener, M., & Furniss, J. C. (1990). The use of KES and FAST Instruments. International Journal of Clothing science and Technology, 2(3/4), 34-39. doi:10.1108/eb002964   DOI
2 CSIRO Division of Wool Technology. (1989). The FAST system for the objective measurement of fabric properties - Operation, Interpretation and Application-. CDW Technology.
3 Gersak, J. (2003). Investigations of the impact of fabric mechanical properties on garment appearance. Tekstil, 52(8), 368-379.
4 Kawabata, S. (1980). The standardization and analysis of hand evaluation(2nd ed). Japan, Osaka.
5 Kim, S. A., & Gotoh, D. (2008). The characteristics and applications of 3D CAD. Journal of the Korean Society for Clothing Industry, 7(2), 131-134.
6 Kim, H. A., & Kim, S. J. (2011). Seam pucker and formability of the worsted fabrics. Fibers and Polymers, 12(8), 1099-1105. doi:10.1007/s12221-011-1099-8   DOI
7 Kyohei, T., Toyonori, N., Hiroyuki, K., Satoshi, A., Junki, K., & Kiyohiro, S. (2015). Influence of physical properties of wool fabrics on the poor appearance of jacket. Journal of Textile Engineering, 61(2), 17-21. doi:10.4188/jte.61.17   DOI
8 Ly, N. G., Tester, D. H., Buckenham, P., Roczniok, A. F., Adriaansen, A. L., Scaysbrook, F., & De, J. S. (1991). Simple instruments for quality control by finishers and tailors. Textile Research Journal, 61(7), 402-406. doi:10.1177/004051759106100707   DOI
9 Morooka, H., & Niwa, M. (1978). Physical properties of fabrics relating to making-up and good appearance. Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, 24(4), 105-114.   DOI
10 Niwa, M., Nakanishi, M., Ayada, M., & Kawabata, S. (1998). Optimum silhouette design for ladies' garments based on the mechanical properties of a fabric. Textile Research Journal, 68(8), 578-588. doi:10.1177/004051759806800806   DOI
11 Pavlinic, D. Z., Gersak, J., & Bratko, I. (2006). Predicting seam appearance quality. Textile Research Journal, 76(3), 235-242. doi:10.1177/0040517506061533   DOI
12 Yick, K. L., Cheng, K. P. S., Dhingra, R. C., & How, Y. L. (1996). Comparison of mechanical properties of shirting materials measured on the KES-F and FAST instruments. Textile Research Journal, 66(10), 622-633. doi:10.1177/004051759606601003   DOI
13 Yokura, H., & Niwa, M. (1990). Durability of fabric handle and shape retention during wear of men's summer suits. Textile Research Journal, 60(4), 194-202. doi:10.1177/004051759006000402   DOI