• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.106-114
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• 2006

This research aims to identify the recent changes in construction, design, and technical vocabularies between North and South Korea of the Korean woman's top(Jeogori), which is a main part of her traditional costume(Hanbok). After Korea War, Korea was divided into two countries(the division), and there was little communication between the two until 1972(the interexchange). Thus, this study will compare two time periods: 1953-1972 and 1972 to recent times. Hanbok construction books published in both Koreas are evaluated here to see what similarities and differences existed during these two periods. Women in the North continued to wear their traditional costume(renamed the Chosunot in the North) as daily clothing, but women in the South began saving the Hanbok only for parties and ceremonies. As the North Korean government controlled its peoples dress and continued to make changes, the North kept developing new technical vocabularies, but the South continued to use the same terms fur the Hanbok. From the end of the 1990s, the Chosunot had become more and more similar to the Hanbok in colors, shapes, and materials.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.5 s.58
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• pp.763-776
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to analyze the glamour image in contemporary women's fashion since 1990. The method of study is to analyze the documentary and fashion magazines about the glamour images. Most of all, glamour has been composed by connection of hollywood film industry and fashion. Glamourous body image showed sensual, threatening and vague body. Formative characteristics in fashion showed a tight silhouette, neglige, lace look, dress showing neck and shoulder, fur coat, stiletto, diamond, gold, big and thick jewelry, satin, velvet, lace, mink and fox fur, etc. Internal meaning was a fantasy, ideal, wealth, fame, hyper-feminity, vagueness, vulgarity, sexuality, mystery, professional, fatalness, aggressiveness and evil. Since 1990, the glamour images in fashion were as follows; First, the glamour with hyper-feminity showed a classical femme-fatal image as fearful existence with a power more than allure. Second, the glamour with vulgarity showed an exaggerated, cheap and popular kitsch image, which have intense colors, lavish surfaces and excessive sexual signs. Third, the glamour with classical sensuality showed a hi-glamour image of hollywood actresses being active from 1930 to 1950, which was expressed glittery dress, stole, diamond, fur wrap, hill, luxury dress. Fourth, the glamour with sexual perversion showed an erotic, vague and sexual drag image, and fetish costume. Fetishistic elements were rubber, PVC, stiletto, thick and high boots and corset and particularly, they were a main method of expression of glamour image. Fifth, the glamour with future image showed a mechanical and mysterious image and it was a conscious style by metallic, plastic and sleeky fabric. In conclusion, glamour fashion image is an ideal beauty type of women and will exist as a meaningful aesthetic sign in women's fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.889-897
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• 2012

This study suggests a direction for stage-costume design by making stage costumes based on amusement, eclecticism, and the masquerade, which are the criteria for approaching stage costume designs according to characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, criteria to approach stage costume design for mask theatre can be classified into amusement, eclecticism, and masquerade according to the characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. Second, the stage costume of a mongrel dog showed amusement through the expression of the image of therianthropy through the combination of a fur-lined vest and wristlet, Korean traditional trousers with the paw-prints of a dog. Third, eclecticism contains diverse characteristics and escapes from being singularly defined due to the fusion of severally different heterogeneous objects. The stage costume differently used a method of wearing clothing in a different period, of choosing clothing materials, and of expressing color in every character to indicate ambiguity to which the drama points through the integration of various expression elements. Fourth, the masquerade present characters (Taembang, Daejang, and Changseok)who simultaneously play the role of fairies after having changed into a white mask and having worn Korean a traditional overcoat (Durumagi) on the original clothes; the, result is the change of the theatrical structure into another time and space inside the theatrical scene of imagination through a concealment of the original clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.2
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• pp.85-96
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• 1998

This is a study on the revitalization of the fashion design studios (planning and production companies of clothing) in compliance with the request from the Small and Medium Business Administration. It's purpose is to strengthen the competence of the petty company and eventually frourish the Korean Fashion Business. The research method to conduct this study consists of two parts. First part is the research on the domestic industry mainly by questionaire, interviews and literature reviews. After making out the directory of the design studios (total of 700), 85 studios were selected for the questionaire. And by interviewing them, data with more depth was obtained. The second part is the research of the foreign cases. In the case of Japan, survey was done on the spot. However, in the case of Italy, literature review and interview with specialists were made. Also in order to higher the efficiency of the study an advisory committee and final explanatory meeting was carried into effect. This study has started first by looking into the significance and function of the fashion design studios. Then, a full scale examination was made centering around the questionarie of the present conditions of the companies. General conditions were first observed. Then the survey was done by grouping the industry by the industrial classifications such as woven, knit, leather mustang fur and fashion accesaries. The problems these companies face are that they are petty in scale and in lack of speciality, professional training, government support. Also, they are without an association or an organization that speaks for them and they face problems while doing business with others. Cases of Japan and Italy were surveyed as the example of the advanced nations. In the case of Japan, development of planning and management company, Fashion Soft House, was analyzed. Italy for instance, the function of the studios was looked into centering around the silk complex, Como, knit product complex, Capri. Also, precedent cases of brands and developing factor of the fashion industry was examined. Finally, on the basis of the result of the study, a plan to revitalize the fashion design studios was presented centering around the strategic planning, management, production, developing of talent, improvement of relationship between business acqaintance, and the support policy of the government.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.3 s.112
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• pp.90-107
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• 2007

Modernization movement has affected classical operas. Today, classical operas are often re-interpreted from the modern perspective and played differently only with the storyline maintained. Also, operas are increasingly performed outside traditional theaters as the boundaries between stage and audience become less obvious. Accordingly, stage costumes are being differently designed than before. New attempts are being made to look costumes in a harmony with increasingly streamlined stage machinery. This helps increase public attention on operas, consequently promoting the opera industry. This study examines modernization of opera costumes. For this study, the author worked as one of costume design staff for "Faust," which was played in Sungnam Art Center from November 24, 2005 to November 27, 2005 in commemoration of the opening of the center. The following outcomes of the crowd are drawn from this study. A variety of splendid pink dresses, ribbons, dolls, hand mirror, and hair bands were used to express haughty girls with "Princess Syndrome." Fashion models, the envy of all woman, wore fashionable clothes including luxury dresses, fur-coats, high heels, purses, and hats, Models also had big shopping bags and gift boxes to symbolize shopping lovers in a modern society. Gay men wore tight leather trousers and vest and sleeves shirts with deeply cut neckline to express their preference for feminie style. their clothes were splendid colors that normally women liked such as gold, purple, light green, scarlet, and silver. Soldiers were in combat uniform representing their participation in the war. In particular, clothes stained with dirt, iron helmet, crutches, and canteens were used to vividly express soldiers coming back home from the war. Modern opera costumes now help reduce the time and space between stage and audience, improve economic efficiency, and meet the audience's needs for various style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.188-203
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• 2010

This study purposed to identify the design and composition characteristics of mantle through a historical review of its change and development focusing on women's dress. This analysis was particularly focused on the Victorian age because the variety of mantle designs introduced and popularized was wider than ever since ancient times to the present. For this study, we collected historical literature on mantle from ancient times to the $19^{th}$ century and made comparative analysis of design and composition, and for the Victorian age we investigated also actual items from the period. During the early Victorian age when the crinoline style was popular, mantle was of A.line silhouette spreading downward from the shoulders and of around knee length. In the mid Victorian age from 1870 to 1889 when the bustle style was popular, the style of mantle was changed to be three-dimensional, exaggerating the rear side of the bustle skirt. In addition, with increase in women's suburban activities, walking costume became popular and mantle reached its climax. With the diversification of design and composition in this period, the name of mantle became more specific and as a result, mantle, mantelet, dolman, paletot, etc. were used. The styles popular were: it looked like half-jacket and half-cape. Ornaments such as tassels, fur, braids, rosettes, tufts and fringe were attached to create luxurious effects. In the late Victorian age when the hourglass style was in fashion, mantle returned again to plain design emphasizing the details of the shoulders. The results of this study are expected to present motives for the development of contemporary designs, to contribute to the new recognition of the value of mantles, and to open a new research area of clothing history.

• Journal of Korean Home Economics Education Association
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• v.34 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to propose implications by analyzing the textiles and clothing curriculum of vocational high schools. Literature and data were analyzed, surveys and FGI were conducted, and the following research results were derived. First, many schools chose 'Basic dress design' or 'Basic dress composition' as basic subjects. Through this, it was confirmed that technical training for practice is a priority for vocational schools, and that more discussion is needed regarding the lack of theoretical subjects. Second, similarly to the basic subjects, practical subjects offered are concentrated on 2 to 3 subjects. The teachers asserted that some subjects such as 'Knit apparel production' and the 'Leather and fur design production', which require a lot of equipment and advanced technology, cannot be offered without support from the government. Third, the NCS competency unit of the practical subjects is easy to proceed with the class or is closely concentrated on the type of manpower training presented by each department. Fourth, this study proposes that for technical education to expand students' choice, it is necessary to cultivate teachers competencies linked to the industry. The results of this study are expected to provide basic data on the organization of the next textiles and clothing professional curriculum and help understand vocational education at vocational high schools. In addition, it is believed that this study will contribute to developing and settling various subjects when the high school credit system is implemented by expanding students' choice of major-related subjects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.3_4
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• pp.407-417
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to develop designs and patterns of a functional brassiere. For this purpose, women who have protruding and drooping breasts with 75B for their brassiere size were sampled. The fitting test for the fitness and function of test brassiere and control brassiere were carried out twice and compared the results from the both in terms of front, rear and side looks. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The results from measuring the level of sag and spread, and volume and protrusion of breasts shows that there are some distinctive differences in the measurements before and after wearing the test brassiere and the test brassiere is proved to be very effective in correcting breasts' shapes. 2. Front look: Since the two front cutting lines of the test brassiere served to have the curved main part pressing against the breasts, it could support breasts to more than satisfactory level. In addition, upperline panel and side panels of the test brassiere were found to have the upperline of the upper cup pressed against the breasts and at the same time it pressed and gathered the flab around upper part of the breasts and armpits that helped to rearrange the shape of the breasts. It is also proved that the two-pieced test brassier was found to be more functional in supporting the lower cup of the breasts. 3. Rear look: The test brassier was made up of two wide U-shaped wings with 2.5cm tape on its lower sides. Each wing has 4 lines and 3 hems (5.5cm). For this reason, the test brassiere was tighter and better fitted on its back. 4. Side look and entire look: The wings of the test brassiere might look wider than that of the control brassier which has conventional straight-shaped wings, but it was analyzed that the test brassiere held the upper and lower sides of the wings more effectively to be more pressed against the breast. Therefore, the test brassiere scored higher in terms of adjusting to body movements, while the control brassiere looked better in overall terms. 5. The functional brassier fur protruding and drooping breasts developed from the experiments of this study is a full side stretch brassiere which covers the entire breasts satisfactorily. The pattern drafting methods are suggested in to .

• Land and Housing Review
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• v.2 no.4
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• pp.559-568
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• 2011

This study aims at listing up those manufacturing activities sensitive to regional characteristics by analyzing locational hierarchy designed on the urban rank-size rule. This locational hierarchy by manufacturing activities is expected to provide a ground for the proper supply of an industrial complex. The analysis of the locational hierarchy by manufacturing activities can work as a method of observing the characteristics of the distribution of location for each economic activity by analyzing the trend in the change of manufacturing location. Consequently, it can be used to determine the appropriate manufacturing activities for the industrial complex of a particular region. Here, the locational hierarchy is analyzed depending on the base of the basic local government such as Gun(district level) and Si(city level), and manufacturing activities are categorized by Korea Standard Industry Code. Those activities demonstrating growth pattern are Manufacture of Electronic Equipment(KSIC 26), Manufacture of Medical Precision Optical Instruments Watch(KSIC 27), Manufacture of Motor Vehicles (KSIC 30, 31), etc. With proper infrastructures, these activities can be located everywhere. Those sectors on the decline pattern in the locational hierarchy can be summarized as Manufacture of Tobacco Products(KSIC 12), Manufacture of wearing apparel Fur Articles(KSIC 14), etc. Those sectors scattered widely in the locational hierarchy are Manufacture of Food Products(KSIC 10), Manufacture of Coke Petroleum Products(KSIC 19), Manufacture of Chemical Products(KSIC 20), Manufacture of Electronic Equipment(KSIC 26). These particular manufacturing activities can be operated in those regions in a sufficient supply of unskilled workers regardless of proper infrastructures. Those activities that have a tendency to reconcentrate on larger cities are Manufacture of Textiles(KSIC 13), Manufacture of Wearing Apparel Clothing Fur Articles(KSIC 14), Manufacture of Other Transport Equiptmen(KSIC 31). In most cases, these sectors tend to favor their existing agglomerated areas and concentrate around large cities. Therefore, it is inefficient to promote these sectors in small or medium-sized cities or underdeveloped regions. The establishment of developmental strategies of an industrial complex can gain greater competitiveness by observing such characteristics of the locational hierarchy.