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A Study on the functional pattern design for brassiere-focusing on large-breasted women-  

Park, Eun-Mi (Dept. of Clothing & Textiles, Sookmyung Women's University)
Im, Soon (Dept. of Fashion & Industry, Incheon University)
Publication Information
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles / v.27, no.3_4, 2003 , pp. 407-417 More about this Journal
Abstract
The purpose of this study is to develop designs and patterns of a functional brassiere. For this purpose, women who have protruding and drooping breasts with 75B for their brassiere size were sampled. The fitting test for the fitness and function of test brassiere and control brassiere were carried out twice and compared the results from the both in terms of front, rear and side looks. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. The results from measuring the level of sag and spread, and volume and protrusion of breasts shows that there are some distinctive differences in the measurements before and after wearing the test brassiere and the test brassiere is proved to be very effective in correcting breasts' shapes. 2. Front look: Since the two front cutting lines of the test brassiere served to have the curved main part pressing against the breasts, it could support breasts to more than satisfactory level. In addition, upperline panel and side panels of the test brassiere were found to have the upperline of the upper cup pressed against the breasts and at the same time it pressed and gathered the flab around upper part of the breasts and armpits that helped to rearrange the shape of the breasts. It is also proved that the two-pieced test brassier was found to be more functional in supporting the lower cup of the breasts. 3. Rear look: The test brassier was made up of two wide U-shaped wings with 2.5cm tape on its lower sides. Each wing has 4 lines and 3 hems (5.5cm). For this reason, the test brassiere was tighter and better fitted on its back. 4. Side look and entire look: The wings of the test brassiere might look wider than that of the control brassier which has conventional straight-shaped wings, but it was analyzed that the test brassiere held the upper and lower sides of the wings more effectively to be more pressed against the breast. Therefore, the test brassiere scored higher in terms of adjusting to body movements, while the control brassiere looked better in overall terms. 5. The functional brassier fur protruding and drooping breasts developed from the experiments of this study is a full side stretch brassiere which covers the entire breasts satisfactorily. The pattern drafting methods are suggested in to .
Keywords
functional brassiere; full side stretch brassiere; U-type wing; side panel; upperline panel; etc;
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