• 한국의류학회지
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• 제25권8호
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• pp.1524-1535
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to establish a sizing system according to size and dimension whereby manufactured pants can be classified and develop men’s formal pants pattern based on the analysis of ready-made and educational pants pattern. The first, we surveyed the sizing and the basic pants patterns of the men’s ready-made wear companies, Secondly, through the survey data of the domestic men’ready-mad clothing industry, we proposed a new sizing system. Lastly, after compared three different types of ready-mad pants manufactured according to their patterns and an additional type of pants made after the educational pattern, the new men’s basic pants pattern were developed. The findings were as follows: 1. Survey of the domestic ready-mad garment industry showed that each company classified its own manufactured goods according to its own sizing system: moreover, they each used its own unique patterns which appeared to be resulted from a combination of two factors : the experience of a patterner and foreign know-how technology. 2. New sizing system was developed with 12 steps from size 74-88 to size 96-106 based on the high frequencies of the companies’3. New basic patterns for men’s formal pants were developed: Inseam length = 80cm, crotch line = H/4+4.6cm, pants ham = 23.5cm as basic lines and front waist girth =W/4+9.1cm as drafting line. 4. the superiority of the new basic patterns were been demonstrated by a high approval rate of the subjects who participated in testing.

• 복식
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• 제58권1호
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• pp.133-150
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to recognize of the sizing system and analyze the fitting on formal pants of the on-line shopping mall for plus-sized women. To pursue this purpose, the investigation of the sizing system was focused on 22 online companies. The formal pants of 7 companies was selected among them. And actual sizes were compared with the guidance sizes of goods. For the assessment about the fitting on formal pants of 7 online companies, these came to make on to 16 obese women with 'A' body shaped and 'O' body shaped. A data analysis used the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, this study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. 1. All of 22 companies were using the symbol such as 88, 99, 100 and 110 in the present condition of sizing system. The information about products size was presenting the products size not to be the body size. the guidance sizes of products were different from actual sizes of 7 companies to be assorted. Therefore, the guidance sizes of goods could not accomplish the facility. 2. According to the fitting-tests by the sensory assessment, the obese women with 'A' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the items of the hip circumference, abdominal region, crotch deep and pants length. The obese women with 'O' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the the items of crotch deep and pants length.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.26-36
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• 2011

The study analyzes the development of slim-fit formal pants patterns for middle-aged men. This study suggests a new pattern that complements the problems of the existing fit on the basis of the standard nude size for middle-aged men with lower garments through the analyses of one-tuck pants patterns from 5 popular brands. As a result, the waistline is lowered by 0.8cm out of consideration for the waist circumference. The crotch extension is reduced by 1.5cm, the back crotch length is revised, the center back waist point is raised by 0.9cm, and the hip line is straightened. The slim-fit is perfected of the new lines from the thigh to knee-line.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권2호
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• pp.276-287
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• 2009

Apparel professionals need to understand the customer to effectively develop, select, and promote apparel products. Analysis of consumer preferences can help in the creative design process. Therefore the purpose of this study was to identify consumer preference by gender in two segmented group; $20{\sim}34$ aged group and $35{\sim}49$ aged group toward men's apparel consumers, considering target customers and female influences on men's wear purchasing. We used questionnaires that were distributed to 600 males and females aged in their 20s to 40s, using stratified sampling method. Only 547 reliable questionnaires were selected for statistical analysis. Chi-Square and t-test were used to analyze the data, using SPSS program. We obtained the following results: 1. We found that there was a significant association between segmented age group and the preference of men's jacket style. Specially $20{\sim}34$ aged group had a significant association with styles of formal jacket, casual t-shirts, casual pants, but $35{\sim}49$ aged group had formal pants style. Looking at the general percentage, semi-formal jacket, slim fit t shirt, straight casual pants were the most favored styles. 2. Age has an significant effect on the preferences of formal menswear fabric patterns and shirt patterns. The results of t-test showed that there found to be significant by gender in character and check pattern of shirts. 3. In design details, the number of button had not significance by gender, and 2 buttons was th most favored by both age groups. The number of gather at the waist had an significant association in $34{\sim}49$ age group. $20{\sim}34$ age group prefer high waist of pants, while $35{\sim}49$ age group prefer low waist of pants. 4. For on time outfit, formal wear and tie ensemble was the most favored with significant difference by age and gender. Formal wear and no tie ensemble favored by about one third of respondents, and more favored by the younger group. For off time outfit, casual jacket and casual pants ensemble was the most favored.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.741-751
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• 2009

In order to design and develop the various silhouette of pants pattern for standardized pants patterns, this study is to classify the pants style by the silhouette and to characterize each pants pattern which are classified. Recent 37 ready-made pants patterns of various style were collected in order to analyze their silhouette from April to July 2007. Measurement of each region of the pants pattern were compared and analysed. After analyse the standard deviation, coefficient of variance, minimum, maximum, range about the measurement of each region of the pants pattern, major pattern design factors were extracted. Five major factors are the angle of center front line and center back line, the crotch extension, the position of center back line against center front line, the curvature of center back line, and amount of waist dart. As a result, pants style were grouped as the culottes, formal, basic and tight style after considering the extracted design factors, and analysing correlation, degree of dispersion of the measurement by part. As the silhouette of pants classification from culotte to tight, the fits are closer to the figure, crotch depth increases, crotch extensions are shorter, and angle of the center back increases. The shape of the connected front and back center lines is U-shape for culotte and is closer to V-shape as the silhouette becomes tight.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권4호
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• pp.443-455
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• 2012

In this research, a woman matched to the average Korean standard size specification of 21-24 years of age was scanned using Cyberware. Rapidform 2004 was used to separate the body zone into fit zone, action zone and design zone, depending on the function of the lower body. Each divided body zone expanded radially using 'offset' by 1.60mm at the cross section of the waist, and 6.36mm at the hip level. Resultant ease values were 1cm and 4cm along the waistline and hipline (respectively), as recommended in previous research. 2C-AN program and Yuka CAD was used to develop a pant pattern from the enlarged 3D body surface blocks. A total of five pants were constructed using conventional fabrics for light weight formal pants. The appearance of the experimental pants were evaluated by five clothing-major evaluators using a questionnaire that consisted of 21 questions. In addition, functional aspects of the experimental pants were also evaluated by wearer while performing five postures for the measurement of ease of movement. It was found that, the method of regional offset and suggested 3D to 2D pattern development generate reasonably good pant patterns. Among the pattern block arrangements, the method B was evaluated as the best way to generate formal pants from the tight-fit pattern, which fit smoothly over the lower body for maintaining ease of movement.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.820-835
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to provide a basic pattern to assist in the development of formal pants that reflect the physical characteristics of women with lower-body obesity. The subjects selected for this study were women in their 20s and 30s with a Rohrer index of 1.6 or higher, a waist circumference 78.5cm to 83.5cm, and a lower drop of at least 18cm. The experimental pants patterns were developed by varying the waist line position, the waist ease, the ease in the hip area, the crotch length, the front and rear crotch width, the leg width, and the total length. Data analysis was performed using the SPSS statistics program(version 18.0). To verify the difference, this study used a variance analysis and Duncan's test. The conclusions drawn by the study are as follows. To reflect the form element of an abdomen with fatty deposits, the waist circumference should have an ease of 2cm. The front waist result was W/4+0.5cm+0.75cm and the rear waist result was W/4-0.5cm+0.25cm. The hip circumference showed a total ease of 4.5cm. The front hip result was H/4+0.75cm and the rear hip result was H/4+1.5cm. The crotch width set to H/16-1cm and the applied rear crotch width was H/16+2cm. The rear hip area was given more ease to reflect the protrusion of the hip. Along the line extending from the knee area to the crotch line, the outer seam line was designed with a gradual S-shaped curve to accommodate the protrusion from the maximum thigh width.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.327-335
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• 2007

As the digital environment gets ubiquitous, domestic and international research and development on smart clothing is being conducted actively these days. However, most research is being carried out with its center on upper garment. So research on lower garment is insufficient even though it affects wearer's activity and comfort to a great extent when digital devices are attached or wearers moves their body. Therefore, the type of clothes this research proposes is men's formal pants which have an electrically-vibrating wearable device. These are smart pants which are helpful in easing muscle pain with their massaging effect in daily life. For this purpose, this research intends to develop patterns considering the body shapes and movements of wearers and suggest a tentative structure plan for smart pants where a vibration device is attached, which is mainly composed of vibrating motor, controller, and switch, and considered their bulks, numbers, attaching places.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.97-110
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• 2005

The need for children's formal wear is growing as parents take their children into formal occasions more often than before. Yet there are some problems to be solved in order to generalize about children's formal wear such as high price and the development of patterns for better fit and design. Mothers of boys were surveyed to find out the needs, complaints, and required improvements of boy's formal wear. Pattern designers of children's formal wear brands were interviewed to determine the size specifications, pattern drafting methods and design features of each brand. Based on these results, several pattern drafting methods were selected. Jackets and pants for 9-year-olds were made by each pattern drafting method using the us standard size. They were compared through wearing test to improve the fit. As a result, pattern drafting methods for children's tailored suits and two formal jackets were suggested.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권2호
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• pp.291-302
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• 2010

This study details the actual wearing conditions and favored design of ready-made pants for obese women, particularly for those in their twenties and thirties. The actual problems that customers feel and the preferred design of pants were suggested based on the survey and from the standpoint of consumers. The findings of the survey are as follows. The actual wearing conditions in the survey, 80.5% like wearing pants. The main reason to prefer pants is that pants are more convenient for social or professional work activities. The main reason to avoid wearing pants is that the pants (in general) do not mask an obese body shape. The most favored was Denim/Elastic and the second most favored was Cotton/Elastic from the survey. On average, elastic materials are preferred over non-elastic materials. The reason was the comfort in wearing and convenience in social or professional activities that could mask obesity. In terms of the style, the most favored was blue jeans and the second favored was semi-formal. A straight-silhouette is the most favored as it was able to help mask obesity. The most favored position for the waistline is 4 cm lower than the natural waistline. The most favored pant length is where the pants slightly touch the floor when they stand with shoes on. For obese women the pants development that covers the weak points of the body shape giving, which is comfortable and active are desired.