This paper describes an experimental study to examine collapse causes of the lifting cable due to brittle failure of an fitting anchor under the lifting works. Also, in this study an collapse mechanism that was obtained from stress analysis was compared with an actual collapse procedure. Fractographical analysis as well as chemical component test, tension test and Charpy V-Notch impact test for the fractured steel members were carried out. And then, its results were compared with that of normal steel members. Circumferential surface flaws were developed at internal facets of the fitting anchor before tensile stress occurred. Hence, a higher stress than nominal stress was occurred at flaws by stress concentration at the crack tip. Also, stress intensity factor of members increased by crack size of the potential flaws. Because the stress intensity factor at the crack tip was greater than critical values(fracture toughness), brittle fracture occurred under the lifting works. It is judged that the main collapse of the lifting cable is due to brittle fracture of the fitting anchor.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.4
no.1_2
/
pp.1-9
/
1980
The purpose of this study were: (1) to determine buying practices of mothers concerning child-ren's shirts and slacks; (2) to find out the characteristics of satisfaction and dissatisfaction about these same two items of children's clothing; (3) to make gathered information available to consumers and manufacturers, and to suggest ways to improve children's clothing for consumers. The data for this study were collected through questionaires to 789 mothers of seven and eight years old children in three elementary schools from December 3 to December 14, 1978. The findings are as follows: 1. More than $71\%$ of mothers stated that all of their children's shirts and slacks were purchased ready-made. More than half of the children acquired some part of their clothing through hand-me-downs. 2. The store in which mothers purchased their children clothing most frequently was near-by market or wholesale market and the next was children's wear specialty shop. 3. Childrens accompanied mothers more frequently when slacks were being purchased than when shirts were. 4. More than half the children of seven and eight years old wear size 9$\~$10 and the next common size was size 11$\~$12. 5. Most mothers determined the proper size in clothing by having the child actually try on the clothing. 6. $44\%$ of mothers stated that they have a fitting problem with shirts and $64\%$ of mothers stated that they have fitting problems with slacks.
Shirts which have been a inner-wear in men's suit in the past, are being changed into an item that 20's men utilize to their individuality. Dress shirts have gotten out of its shape, becoming tight and slim with activity and fashion trend. In this study, two patterns of fitted dress shirts in a clothing construction text book were compared with the pattern of an apparel company with regard to the size tolerance and appearance silhouette; this comparison was performed through a fitting test and an appearance evaluation. According to the study, size tolerance of chest girth and waist girth were about 6~8cm and 10~18cm, respectively. Neck girth of the collar was tight in both the fitting test and appearance evaluation. Thus, the measurement value of the neck base girth had to be used for the collar pattern making. Moreover, approximately 35cm is a moderate size for the width on the upper arm in sleeve. Therefor the factors such as size tolerance of waist girth, height of sleeve cap, slim sleeve width and measurement value of neck base girth are being considered for the pattern making of fitted dress shirts.
The purpose of this study is to recognize the real situation of clothing construction to present the desirable direction to establish more scientific and reasonable themes of the study by analysis of the tendency of the clothing construction study. For this purpose, 402 papers on the theme of clothing construction study were excepted from the first issues to the issues of December in 1999 of Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textile, Journal of Korea Home Economics, Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, Research Journal of the Costume Culture, Journal of the Korean Fiber Society, and Journal of the Human Engineering Society of Korea. I analyzed and classified the theme into eight issues of design related clothing construction, study of body types, study of patterns, size of apparel, fitting of clothing, protective clothing and functional clothing, sewing, and the clothes. The result of the study is follows. 1. The distribution tendency of the clothing construction study by the journal of each society showed that journal of Korean Home Economic is 22.9%, Journal of Korea Society of Clothing and Textiles 17.3%, Research Journal of the Costume Culture 12.2%, and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume 6.2%. 2. The distribution tendency of the studying issues showed hat study of body types of 29.4%, study of patterns21.9%, fitting of clothing 11.7%, sewing 10.2%, size of apparel 8.5%, and others 7%, protective clothing and functional clothing 6.7%, and design related clothing construction 4.7%. Considering the above result. we can understand that study of body types and patterns are being studied most actively. 3. Regarding the study tendency by academic issues showed that study of construction elements and design application is chiefly centered of the study of design related clothing construction (35.5%), analysis of body types is centered of the study of body, type(46/6%), CAD is centered of the study of patterns (31.1%), and size spec for the ready made patterns is centered of the study of size of apparel(32.4%). As for fitting of clothing, the study was performed in two ways on the changes of he surfaces of human bodies in motion and the functional features of experimental dressing. Regarding the study of sewing study of fusible interlining was mainly performed (36.6%) and regarding the study of protective clothing and functional clothing, study of brassieres and underwear was chiefly performed.
Much research on natural language processing (NLP), computational linguistics and lexicography has relied and depended on linguistic corpora. In recent years, many organizations around the world have been constructing their own large corporal to achieve corpus representativeness and/or linguistic comprehensiveness. However, there is no reliable guideline as to how large machine readable corpus resources should be compiled to develop practical NLP software and/or complete dictionaries for humans and computational use. In order to shed some new light on this issue, we shall reveal the flaws of several previous researches aiming to predict corpus size, especially those using pure regression or curve-fitting methods. To overcome these flaws, we shall contrive a new mathematical tool: a piecewise curve-fitting algorithm, and next, suggest how to determine the tolerance error of the algorithm for good prediction, using a specific corpus. Finally, we shall illustrate experimentally that the algorithm presented is valid, accurate and very reliable. We are confident that this study can contribute to solving some inherent problems of corpus linguistics, such as corpus predictability, compiling methodology, corpus representativeness and linguistic comprehensiveness.
A new analytical model which can discribe the relationship between the bridging stress and the crack opening displacement was proposed to investigate the microstructural effect on the R-curve behavior in a polycrystalline alumina. The crack opening displacement according to the distance behind the stationary crack tip was measured using in-situ fracture technique in an SEM, and then used for a fitting procedure to obtain the distribution of bridging stress. The current model and an empirical power law relation were introduced into the fitting procedure. The results indicated that the bridging stress function and R-curve computed by the current model were consistent with those computed by the power law relation. The microstructural factor, e.g., the distribution of grain size, was also found to be closely related to the bridging stress. Thus, this model explained well the interaction effect between the distribution of bridging stress and the local-fracture-controlling microstructure, providing important information for the systematic interpretation of microfracture mechanism including R-curve behavior of a monolithic alumina.
This study develops a traditional green fabric pattern design through an apparel CAD system. The method used simulated stage costumes and evaluated the consumer satisfaction connected with a 3D fitting system. The results are as follows. Computerization of the pattern making process can provide higher accuracy and efficiency in apparel pattern making and marking for green fabrics. A Stage costumes design was developed; subsequently, the developed dress patterns are automatically depicted to the input of the body size of the consumer and marked using marking program. This results show that it has an effect on narrow and expensive green fabrics. Stage costumes design can make a simulation by a 3D Fitting system. The results of this study can provide higher consumer satisfaction through a survey of 30 consumers. Stage costumes should attract the sympathy of the spectators. The Acceptance of Andong region's traditional beauty is required. We found that a relationship of performance and clothes, physical functionality and beauty of costumes, possibility of commercialization, and the possible use of a 3D Fitting system use are evaluated. A continuous study of regional culture resources is required since there is a significant possibility for the long-term development of stage clothes.
The purpose of this study was to analyze the patterns of D level protective clothing, improve their ease of movement by modifying the patterns, and validate the effectiveness of the improvements through 3D virtual fitting and subjective wearing evaluations. Based on previous studies that identified numerous complaints, the patterns of the neck, armpit, and waist areas were modified, resulting in the development of new patterns. To compare and analyze the improved protective clothing with the basic protective clothing, stress and strain were examined after 3D virtual fitting. Additionally, to assess the clothing's allowance, the overall distance between the avatar and the protective clothing, as well as the sectional circumference length and distance of each avatar body part, were measured. Furthermore, the improved protective clothing was manufactured, and a subjective wearing evaluation was conducted with ten males in their twenties as participants. The results showed that the improved protective clothing had evenly distributed stress, larger sectional circumference, and lower average cavity distance. The subjective wearing evaluation also revealed that the suit with improved patterns exhibited superior size suitability, reduced pulling sensation in different body parts, and increased ease of movement. In conclusion, this study confirmed that even minimal pattern modifications can enhance the functionality of protective clothing, alleviating discomfort for wearers.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.35
no.12
/
pp.1454-1465
/
2011
Menswear body types are often labeled on garments (to indicate how the garments are designed to fit) with indicators of a size category such as regular, portly, and stout, athletic, or big and tall. A drop (relationships between the chest and waist girths) is related to the fit of a tailored suit. However, current standards are not designed for various drops or body types. There is not enough information of categorizing men's body shapes for the apparel sizing systems. In this article, a set of men's data from SizeUSA sizing survey was analyzed to investigate men's body shapes and drops. Factor analysis and a cluster analysis method were used to categorize men's body shapes. In the results, twenty-five variables were selected through the factor analysis and found four factors: girth factor, height factor, torso girth factor, and slope degree factor. According to the factor and cluster analysis, various body shapes were found: Slim Shape (SS - tall ectomorphy), Heavy Shape (HS - athletic, big & tall, endomorphy and mesomorphy), Slant Inverted Triangle Shape (SITS - regular, slight ectomorphy and slight mesomorphy weight range from normal to slightly overweight), Short Round Top Shape (SRTS - portly and stout, endomorphy). Body shapes were related to fitting categories. SS and HS were related to big & tall fitting category. SITS was related to regular. SRTS was related to portly and stout. Shape 1 (31%) and Shape 2 (26%) were related to current big & tall category. Shape 3 (34%) were related to regular. Shape 4 (9%) were in portly and stout category. ASTM D 6240 standard was the only available standard that presented a regular fitting category. Various drops were found within a same chest size group; however, this study revealed great variances of drops by body shape.
Global fitting functions for Fe-selective chlorination in ilmenite($FeTiO_2$) and successive chlorination of beneficiated $TiO_2$ are proposed and validated based on a comparison with experimental data collected from the literature. The Fe-selective chlorination reaction is expressed by the unreacted shrinking core model, which covers the diffusion-controlling step of chlorinated Fe gas that escapes through porous materials of beneficiated $TiO_2$ formed by Fe-selective chlorination, and the chemical reaction-controlling step of the surface reaction of unreacted solid ilmenite. The fitting function is applied for both chemical controlling steps of the unreacted shrinking core model. The validation shows that our fitting function is quite effective to fit with experimental data by minimum and maximum values of determination coefficients of $R^2$ as low as 0.9698 and 0.9988, respectively, for operating parameters such as temperature, $Cl_2$ pressure, carbon ratio and particle size that change comprehensively. The global fitting functions proposed in this study are expressed simply as exponential functions of chlorination rate(X) vs. time(t), and each of them are validated by a single equation for various reaction conditions. There is therefore a certain practical merit for the optimal process design and performance analysis for field engineers of chlorination reactions of ilmenite and $TiO_2$.
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