• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.1009-1020
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• 2009

This study aims to express the androgynous image via shirts as a fashion item. Shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. As for the theoretical background, the study was reviewed previous studies of books, thesis, a series of publication, and the Internet sites on this topic. Through a careful analysis of these previous studies, it designed and made shirts that inspired by androgynous image. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, the study found that meanings of symbolism in clothing continue to change, not fixed at all, depending on historic and cultural environments, and so does symbolism for femininity and masculinity of clothing. Second, shirts are widely worn as a fashion item regardless of sex and age, with growing importance as a casual outer, with the increase in leisure activities driven by the recent implementation of the 5-Day Work Week system in Korea. Third, two patters were used for the work in this study in order to emphasize its form, along with mono color white and stripe patterns. For materials, cotton and blend as a most basic material for a shirt were used with unique variations in the form. Fourth, decorative details or trimming such as ribbon tying methods, shirring, attaching in layers, and irregular pleading widely used for women's wear were applied, and silhouettes with strong drape feelings were used to add feminine feature to men' shirts, in an effort to propose a fashion design of the androgynous look. Fifth, clothes proposed in this study are different from feminine clothing item blouse, because they are androgynous shirts mixing masculinity and femininity. Stiff pads were used in collars and cuffs characteristics of men's traditional shirts to maintain masculinity of a shirt, and design was developed by adding feminine decorative elements, which is different from women's blouse.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.340-355
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• 1995

purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.2
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• pp.19-30
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• 2002

This is the research of Abject Art which was originated aesthetically in Abjection Theory of Julia Kristeva, a french psycho-analyst who argued liberational discussions about feminine identity against patricentric ideology which had fastened existing beautiful and elegant oedipal-feminine image and femininity as the secondary sex or the other's sex. and which became known by the planning display at whitney Museum of American in 1993. In Julia Kristeva's Abjection Theory which was written in her book(Power of Horror : An Assay on Abjection, 1992), she named pre-oedipal stage in which there is no sexual difference and has the same significance to both sexes instead of the oedipal stage which is becoming male-supreme reality as the semiotic and reinterpreted that an infant disregards feminine body--mother's body (Julia Kristeva, named it as Chora) as the love and the pain which carries her baby in herself and creates the baby which belonged to herself--which belongs to the semiotic to enter the symbolic smoothly. So the Abjection art is partly consist of some works which express the concertion of the boundary rebated with infant Identity which is not yet the other perfectly nor the subject perfectly, and of some works called Excretory Arts which express the excretion and vomiting which is the original experience of the abject. I expect that this research can be the chance of breaking from the fastened identity which was granted on female and feminine costume in this masculine-view centric society and creating the new position of costume and dress in the field of art by analyzing the costumes especially among these works.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.758-768
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. The domestic formativeness of all styles is divided into three types: modern feminine, mono-bosom, and utopian narcissist image. This study is baseds on the documents study.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-142
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• 2005

Through the formative analysis of the traditional jokakbo, we have composed surface composition that was made by a perfect square, triangle, a weather vane type, vertical type, cint$\tilde{a}$mani type, and a mixed rectangular. And we have composed that was made by vivid tone, pale tone, and so on, and finally analyzed image, preference rate of them. First, the cause of composition for the image of stimulant was composed by the cause of simplicity characteristics, interesting characteristics, rigid-flexibility characteristics, and modern characteristics. Secondly, the image of clothes was revealed as a simple image of perfect square, a feminine image of cint$\tilde{a}$mani type, a modern image of mixed rectangular in the case of large pattern. And in the case of small pattern, perfect square was revealed as a simple image, cint$\tilde{a}$mani type was revealed as a feminine image, triangle with achromatic colored weather vane type and pale tone was revealed as an interesting image, achromatic colored and pale toned a weather vane type, vivid toned vertical type was revealed as a modern image. Lastly, it revealed that the preference rate against clothes is related with the cause of simplicity characteristics, interesting characteristics, and rigid-flexibility characteristics in the case of large patterns, and especially in the case of large patterns and small patterns, the clothes of pale tone are more preferred. And achromatic colored mixed rectangular and chromatic colored cint$\tilde{a}$mani type are more preferred by the large patterns, and chromatic colored and pale toned weather vane type is more preferred by the small patterns.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.21-35
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the preference of image for modern application of Korean traditional patterns. A survey was conducted using the randomly selected 292 undergraduate women students of Taegu city. The degree of interest and preference in Korean traditional style or something like that had measured by 5 scale method. And then they had two groups which are interest/non-interest group, and preference/non-preference group in Korean traditional style. Also, preference of Korean traditional patterns was measured by 5 scale method. The image of Korean traditional patterns consisted of semantic differential scales. Analysis was by frequency, percentage, and mean. For difference of groups analysis was by t-test. The results were as follows:1. For the survey, 53.8% showed the interest and 40.4% did the preference for the traditional patterns. There was the positive correlation(0.782) between the degree of the interest and preference. 2. Among twenty traditional patterns, the patterns of plants and nature were very preferred, but the patterns of geometrical things was not preferred. 3. For the nature pattern, the image seemed to be elegant and feminine(womanly). For the plant pattern, the image seemed to be feminine, neat, weak, light and mild. For the animal pattern, the image seemed to be heavy, gorgeous, deluxe, virile(manly), strong and active. Last, for the geometrical pattern, the image seemed to be elegant, deluxe, rigid and strong. 4. Between the interest／non­interest groups, there was the significant difference in pattern of cloud, mountain, lotus flower, plum blossoms, orchid, dragon, chinese phoenix and bogy. Especially, for the orchid pattern, the preference difference between these groups was large. 5. For the plant pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the elegant-rustic image. Especially, the interest group evaluated as the elegant image. 6. Between the preference／non­preference groups, there was the strongly significant difference in the preference for the orchid pattern. 7. For the geometrical pattern, the image difference between these groups was very large as the mild­cold image. Especially, the preference groups evaluated as the cold image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.303-314
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• 2001

The purposes of this study were 1) to identify different sub-segments of tourism market in Cheju island based on fashion image of clothing souvenir and 2) to provide manufactures with useful information for developing cultural fashion goods related to Cheju island. The data were collected via a self-administered questionnaire from 192 female tourist(20-59 years old) in Cheju and analyzed by factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA and $\chi$$^2$-test. Six factors of fashion image were found image were found and labeled as: Sexy/feminine, wild/mannish, easy/simple, Cheju, ecology, natural image. Four factors of benefit sought were also identified: Practicality/economic-value, fashionability/preference of design, reputation and souvenir-value. Three groups were identified based on fashion image sought: Image of primitive nature(G1: 37.7%), image of nature in the city(G2: 20.1%), sexy/feminine image(G3: 42.2%). There were significant differences among sub-groups in age, fashion innovation, benefit sought and intention of buying Gal-ot. Younger females(20-30 ages) were included more in group 1 than group 2 while older females(40-50 ages) were included more in group 2. Group 1 had a higher score of fashion innovation comparing group 3. Group 1 had the highest scores on practicality/economic-value and souvenir-value. However, group 2 placed the highest importance on reputation as well as practicality/economic-value and group 3 had the lowest scores on all types of benefit. Group 1 and group 2 had intention of buying Gal-ot more than group 1. Based on the results of this study, manufactures may implement target marketing strategies on group 1 which sought the image of primitive nature and group 2 which sought the image of nature in the city.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.160-170
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze the image of color combination in fashion design. For this study 14,121 color samples were collected from 116 fashion brands selected by the market segmentation based on the results of the previous studies. The brands have high market share and brand recognition in each segmental market. The color samples were measured by spectrophotometer and analyzed by the Munsell's H V/C and CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ value. The representative colors of each market were selected concerning the tensity in CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ color space and the distance between the color samples. h4 a result, 2,213 representative colors were chosen. These color samples composed top and bottom color combination samples by the program 'Item Comparator' that calculated the color differences$({\Delta}E^*)$. Top includes the items such as blouse, shirt, and coats, bottom includes the items such as skirt and pants. The color combination samples were divided into two groups. In one group ${\Delta}E^*$ was less than 30, and In the other group ${\Delta}E^*$ was 30 or more. For investigating the image of color combination, 480 rotor combination samples were classified. The image adjectives for the survey from preceding studies and brand dictionaries were 'classic', 'modern', 'feminine', 'casual', and 'romantic', which have highly preferred in women's wear brands. The result of the study is as follows; For 'classic' 'image, YR, and greyish tone were generally preferred. In the color combination of 'casual' image, the samples with PB color and greyish tone were preferred. For 'feminine' image, RP was preferred as a top color, R, RP, P were preferred as a bottom color. For 'casual' image, PB was preferred as a top color, PB, B were preferred as a bottom color. For 'romantic' image, RP was preferred as a top color, R, P were preferred as a bottom color. The bigger the color differences between the color combination samples were, the more remarkable the image of color combination samples was.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.55-66
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• 2004

The objectives of this study were to examine how image evaluation and preference of women's clothing color vary according to perceiver's culture, gender, and clothing color; to investigate the differences of image evaluation according to body type and the clothing color; and to disclose what image affects to the clothing color preference of Korean and American. Subjects were 388 Korean and 363 American college men and women. The American evaluated the wearer more elegant, feminine, and neater than the Korean did. Clothing color gave significant influence on perception of all image variables. Koreans showed that red and blue color shirts were perceived to be individualistic. Koreans considered blue, indigo, purple, gray, and black were perceived to be less feminine. This means that they evaluated the colors of blue range and low chroma were masculine according to their traditional attitude. Women were more attracted by indigo and purple, while men tended to evaluate yellow as an appealing color. The evaluation of sociability varied depending on the perceiver's culture and clothing colors. The corpulent body type had negative evaluation rather than the ordinary one without the relation with the color of clothing for Koreans and Americans. The evaluation of sociability of Americans had an interaction effect by the body type and clothing color. Attractiveness gave the first significant influences on clothing color preference, and the next came individual(-) and splendid image for Korean men. The individual image gave Korean men to be negative effect. Attractiveness, elegance, and sociable image gave significant influences on clothing color preference in Korean women. For American men, elegance gave the first significant influences on clothing color preference, and the next came sociability and neatness, while elegance was the first and the next came sociability and attractiveness for American women.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.33-44
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• 2004

In this study, based on the postmodern feminism were investigated in the non-fashion areas of painting, advertising and fashion areas. And, fashion illustrations were analyzed visually in the aspect of the essentialism and deconstructivism that constitute the postmodern feminism. In addition, it was examined how women images were expressed in fashion illustrations that reflected the postmodern feministic ideas. The research results first, in fashion illustrations were the essen tialistic women images were grouped in the opening of women bodies and actively emphasize. the opening of women bodies were expressed bodies the fetishistic, ecstatic images, actively emphasize features were expressed the sexual, and realistic images. Secondly, and fashion illustrations the deconstructivistic women images were grouped androgynous features, genderous features, the distorted feminine gender features, complex features. androgynous features were expressed the powerful, grotesque, humorous, androgynous image, that genderous features of immature, boyish image, that the distorted feminine gender features of simple, ethnic, techno-cyber image, that complex features of complex images.