• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.408-412
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• 2003

The micro structure of POY was modified and a wool-like touch yarn of composite fibers with different shrinkage was made. With this yarn 12 different fabrics with wool like touch were prepared. The characteristic physical property changes of the fabrics examined are as follows: 1. In all cases, the initial high shrinkage stages were observed in hot water treatment and the 3D images of complex multilayer of typical doubling fibers with different shrinkage were also observed in hot air treatment of 170C. 2. The tensile strength changes of satin and plain fabrics with the change of twist count showed similar behavior. However, WT's were slightly higher and RT's was lower in twill and satin fabrics than those in plain fabric. 3. Since a slight decrease of B's of twill fabric found with increasing twist count under given experimental condition, it could be influenced on the anti-drape stiffness was decreased and flexibility was increased. 4. A significant decrease of G values was observed in the twist count 800-1000 T.P.M However, in the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M G values observed were kept nearly constant. 5. MIU of plain and twill fabrics showed a drastic decrease at the twist count higher than 1000 T.P.M.

• Journal of Distribution Science
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• v.16 no.8
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• pp.15-27
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• 2018

Purpose - The purpose of the study is to examine the relationships among the following retail operations variables: retail store operations (i.e., store management, sales personnel, promotion of merchandise), success of assortment planning, firm performance (i.e., market share, overall competitive position, profitability, product quality, consumer satisfaction), and retail buyer's demographics and firm's characteristics. Research design, data, and methodology - After conducting a pilot test, the survey was conducted in Seoul, South Korea. With using the listwise deletion method, 378 usable data sets were analyzed. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, and Structural Equation Modeling (SEM) methods were employed. Results - As evidenced from the path diagram, the relationship between retail store operations and the success of assortment planning is strong and significant. Retail store operations affect firm performance, though at a weaker significance than it affects the success of assortment planning. The relationship between the success of assortment planning and firm performance, is the strongest relationship observed by this research. Conclusions - The findings of this empirical study contribute to the retail/fashion buying/management field by confirming (a) the importance of assortment planning for retail firm performance and (b) the role of store operations for successful assortment planning and firm performance for fashion retailers.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.347-350
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• 2007

To analyse basic properties for making packing batt according to doubling condition, packing batt yarn, of $300^D$, $900^D$, $3600^D$ made from DTY yarn $150^D$/48 were produced from KTDI. The results are as follows: The birefringence of the sample yarn increased with increasing the annealing temperature and denier. The initial modulus of the sample yarn decreased with increasing the annealing temperature and denier. The higher than annealing temperature of $160^{\circ}C$, initial modulus of the sample are equilibrated. The strain recovery ratio of samples decreased with increasing the annealing temperature and denier. The lower than annealing temperature of $140^{\circ}C$, strain recovery ratio of the sample are decreased Where the $900^D$, $3600^D$ yarns are at $100^{\circ}C$ the specific bending rigidity value obtained is 0.65kgf/d but the twisted yarn (3,600) obtained 0.006 ($gfcm^2/tex^2$). However, where the heat temperature is $160^{\circ}C$, specific bending rigidity value obtained 0.003($gfcm^2/tex^2$).

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.500-507
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• 2010

In this study, physical properties were studied by using latent stretching yarn in order to develop the texturing yarn technique for super bulky yarn, which is better in bulkiness and handle than natural wool and also adds property of synthetic fiber to natural wool. In order to obtain textured conditions by analysing basic properties for manufacturing DTY yarn with super bulky property, DTY 50d/12 after spinning latent yarn spined POY 80d/12 was obtained under the two conditions of (i) false twist(T/M) level 3 in DTY texturing and (ii) draw ratio level 4 in draw texturing. For DTY texturing yarn, Elongation rate increased as the heat treatment time and temperatures increased. In addition, shrinkage became higher as false twist was higher, so that elongation rate became lower. When annealing became longer in time and higher in temperature, initial modulus increased. In addition, as the count of false twist increased, the initial modulus showed higher values. For draw texturing yarn, under the conditions of heat temperature 180 and heating time 30 minutes, shrinkage rate in draw ratio 1.55 and 1.6 draw ratio was 7%, and that in 1.65 and 1.7 draw ratio was 8.5%. High draw ratio samples' tenacity was much influenced by heating time and temperature, but low draw ratio samples' tenacity was influenced not by treated time, but by treated temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.5
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• pp.804-824
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• 2021

This study qualitatively explored the case of users utilizing multiple accounts on one social network service to create their own multiple spaces and different personas. The purpose of the study was to understand the behavior of people who use multiple accounts to express their identity online using Carl Jung's personality theory. We used in-depth interviews and the Zaltman metaphor elicitation technique (ZMET), targeting 19 people in their 20s and 30s who use more than one personal account on Instagram. Creating a shared consensus map using the configuration concept of ZMET derived six personas in relation to Instagram accounts. The motivations for the respondents' self-presentation associated with their personas and self-presentation types shown on Instagram were analyzed in terms of persona and fashion and subdivided into five dimensions: relationship management strategic presentation, self-monitoring presentation, competence demonstration presentation, anonymous presentation, and persona-centered presentation. Each respondent's persona and self-presentation formed by the Instagram account was analyzed.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.3
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• pp.477-493
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to explore relationships between company's characteristics, the status of business ethics education, employee perceptions of corporate business ethics, and organizational performance. A total of 161 small- and medium-sized apparel companies participated in a survey and data was analyzed using cross-tabulation, ANOVA, and SPSS PROCESS. The results show that, larger companies involved with export are more likely to implement business ethics education, whereas no company characteristic is associated with perceptions of corporate business ethics. Furthermore, apparel companies that implemented or planned to implement business ethics education, have employees with more positive perceptions of corporate business ethics and better organizational performance than fashion companies that have no plan to implement such education. In addition, companies in the apparel sector with higher employee perceptions of corporate business ethics had greater organizational performance than apparel companies with lower employee perceptions of corporate business ethics. This study emphasizes the need to implement business ethics education to enhance employee perceptions of company business ethics, which in turn promotes organizational performance. It is expected that the results of this study will positively affect the development and expansion of business ethics education programs and contribute to the foundation of knowledge for business ethics education for fashion companies.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.3
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• pp.1-14
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• 2017

Cycling has become a popular leisure activity, and many cycling enthusiasts have used cycling clothes as a form of expression, which often comes in wide range of colors. The study shows the importance of color in cycling clothing to meet the emotional needs of consumers. Furthermore, this study aims to provide comparative analysis between color of domestic and overseas cycling clothing brands, and color preference of Korean consumers in order to provide data, which can be used in satisfying consumers' needs for personal expression and emotional demands. Thus, the study expects to identify consumers' satisfaction for cycling clothing. The consumers were categorized by the frequency of cycling and their interest in fashion, and the following categories were made:potential consumers, casual cyclists with low fashion involvement, casual cyclists with high fashion involvement and frequent cyclists with high fashion involvement. Consumers preferred dark colors for their cycling clothing including jacket, top and pants, while 'frequent cyclists with high fashion involvement' preferred more diverse colors and tones. In the cycling clothing market, white and black were major colors, while red, orange and blue were major colors of chromatic color. In terms of shade, dark shade dominated the market. Comparing between preferred color and preferred product color, black was preferred for both, but no other colors showed such tendency. This study is based on empirical analysis and verification of color, which is the emotional element appealing to specific and segmented sports-apparel market. The study revealed that the data could be applicable to the design of future products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.658-667
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is 1) to research how practitioners in fashion industry in South Korea perceive concepts of Technical Design/Designer, 2) to compare and analyze issues at work by occupation, 3) to research specific works in garment development process, and 4) to compare and analyze work involvement by occupation, type of a company and etc, and 5) to propose the role of Technical Designers in apparel companies in South Korea. There were two methods to conduct this study, which were in-depth interview and survey. Both methods were conducted to designers, merchandisers, pattern makers, technical designers, and production coordinators. Frequency analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test, and Factor analysis were performed to get results by using SPSS 18.0 program. The results are following. There were 50 works during garment development process from the result of in-depth interview, and 6 factors were obtained from the result of Factor analysis, which were 'Works about Sample in Sample Development Process', 'Works about Product's Pattern and Size Spec', 'Works about Development of Garment's Design', 'Works about Planning of Product Development and Management of Product in Stock', 'Works about Production Process', and 'Preparation Works for Sample Development'. In conclusion, technical designer in apparel companies in South Korea should be in charge of works about sample in sample development process and decision making of product' size spec, which is included in works about product's pattern and size spec. Also, they should complete technical package after product is developed by designers.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.185-203
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• 2021

The aim of this study was to reveal the modern succession and reinterpretation of brand identity through the case of Balenciaga design presented by Demna Gvasalia through a review of the literature, design collection, and design review analysis. The design collection analysis was conducted from 2016 F/W to 2020 F/W, when Demna Gvasalia commenced responsibility for the Balenciaga collection. A total of 12 articles from overseas fashion magazines and newspapers were analyzed. A modern reinterpretation of Demna Gvasalia's Balenciaga design is as follows. First, he introduced luxury mode to reflect a sense of the times and introduced luxury street looks based on street and sports sensibilities, showing various styles without specific concepts. Second, by sharing universal sensibilities based on pragmatism, he proposed an easy-to-wear outfit for daily life to demonstrate the everydayness of fashion. Third, as a new exploration of traditional structural beauty, the design of Cristobal Balenciaga was reinterpreted through the conversion of items, overlapping outfits, and the introduction of high-tech technologies. Fourth, by taking a conceptual approach to fashion, he has renewed the spirit of experimentation and modernity shown by Cristobal Balenciaga. Fifth, with the presentation of a new icon, new styles of sneakers such as Triple S and Speed Runner are presented as new icons. He inherited the original mindset and creative approach of the house's founder, Cristobal Balenciaga, and reinterpreted it from a contemporary street sensibility and pragmatic perspective.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.