• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.112-126
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• 2019

The objective of this study was to investigate visual elements of steampunk fashion and provide base line data for innovative fashion design ideas and products. We investigated design characteristics of steampunk fashion style shown in 3 movies and 3 animations. Based on the investigation, the research drew intrinsic value of steampunk fashion from three brands 'Vivienne Westwood', 'Dolce & Gabbana' and 'Alexander McQueen'. As the research analyzed movies and animations revealing steampunk style, various characteristics were found and assorted into similar categories. Subcategories of steampunk fashion are pluralism, rebellion and heterogeneity. The followings are result of analyzing three designer collection listed above. First, steampunk fashion made by designers used various color and materials to express multi-pluralistic(multiplicity) characteristic. Second, fashion style in collections revealed artistic and experimental design. This adventurous and innovative characteristic is categorized as rebellion feature. Third, steampunk fashion style used mix-match of unexpected materials or unbalanced silhouette to create a complete fashion style by combining styles in duplicity which could've lack harmony. Intrinsic value of steampunk is defined as graffiti of 19th century's science technology and utopia spirit. Longing for past and fantasy was expressed into fashion. Steampunk fashion wants to escape reality and tries to recreate history of the past faded away with technological development. It defines steampunk as freedom, deviation and fantastical utopia in positive point of view. Furthermore, aesthetic implication of steampunk style found in this research can make a boundary of steampunk style clear and become reference for future researches regarding steampunk fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.83-101
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to observe the elements of Japanese popular culture portrayed in Korean new generation fashion at the current point of time, when Japanese popular culture is first being opened to Korea. And the another purpose is to look into the fashion consciousness of them, which is made up of these aspects. The new generation plays the leading role in further excelling the culture of our society. They are the generation of sense and sensibility, the generation of "me", the generation of information, and the generation of individuality. Even before Japanese popular culture was officially opened, the new generation was already accepting fashion, comics and animation, video games, music, broadcasting, food, etc. The Japanese cultural elements that show most in Korean fashion are street fashion and the fashion of celebrities. These are mostly brought in by fashion magazines, the internet, satellite TV, the new media of cable TV, and street shops. The aspects of Japanese popular culture in Korean new generation fashion are many and varied. Such examples in fashion are : vintage style, school-girl style, sexy causal style, black coordination, soft avant-garde style. It can be said that the fashion consciousness of Korean new generation could be placed in the following order. First, the variety of fashion. Next, the internationalism of fashion. Third, the information of fashion, and last, the play value of fashion. Interest has peaked in Japanese culture after the official opening, and this study has explored the very same aspects which can be seen in Korean new generation fashion. This study was meant to help make a responsible and sturdy new generation fashion culture which can help face the new millennium.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.519-531
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• 2012

This study comprehends the various expressions of Lady Gaga's fashion style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. This study analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulate of Strategy, and Hybridization in addition, it studied all aspects of the aesthetic value of Lady GaGa (an influential popular culture icon). It was classified in the external representation of the fashion style for the aesthetic value. The results are summarized as follows: First, 'Borrow' of the singers of the 80's music and fashion style present from her elders and visual homage to shock artists. It influenced her fans with a difference in viewpoint for a star's fashion that subsequently resulted in a deformation of form, playful kitsch style, and mixed gender. Second, 'Site specificity' presents an extreme make over through an intentional and grotesques fashion style to extend physical territory and defenseless. The results remove stereotypes and reveal deconstructive performances. Third, 'Accumulate of strategy' simultaneously presents voluptuous beauty, futurism, and avant-garde style. This shows the countercultural tendency through the random repetition of fashion images and layerd coordination. Finally, 'Hybridization' presents multiful fashion style through a collaboration with world-famous designers and cosmetic brands. She expressed a diverse and complex fashion style composed of an art form that combines a high-tech cyborg image. The aesthetic values of Lady Gaga' fashion style are 'ambivalence virtuality', 'Transcendental mixed gender', 'plural textuality', and 'unexpected play culture'.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.2
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• pp.165-178
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• 2012

This study researches the form of the Korean jacket point through relics from the Three Kingdoms period that have the traditional Korean style and grace of the Goryeo period as well as the form of the modern Korean jacket starting point. Several conclusions can be drawn from the Korean Image of the Korean jacket that can be classified into types expressed in the jacket style of modern fashion. Therefore, we will analyze traditional elements of Korean beauty through the "Korean image" on how to express it in modern fashion. The purpose of this study is to understand modern design creation and Korean culture. It is important to begin the world through the application of traditional elements to recognize Korean beauty as well as to utilize historical dress based on function and popularity to continue the effort.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.2
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• pp.14-28
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• 2013

This study attempts to systematically analyze a red carpet style. I have researched the Academy Awards called representative film awards which symbolizes international fame and the Grammy Awards which is the most prestigious award in the music industry by subdividing into formative elements such as silhouette, color, fabric, pattern, detail, accessory, fashion image, and so on from 2000 to 2012. Firstly, when it comes to silhouette, mermaid silhouette accounts for the highest proportion in the Academy Awards. Compared to this, fit silhouette is shown almost the same percentage as the mermaid silhouette in the Grammy Awards. Secondly, with regard to color, black color has not only the highest percentage but also examples of different unit forms such as various color, showy gradation and single colors. Various colors in the Grammy Awards have similar percentage in comparison with the Academy Awards. Thirdly, in terms of fabric, silky material is often used most, which looks like putting more weight on dresses for the formative elements of clothes. Fourthly, in pattern, patternless dresses are represented by high percentage at both the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Dresses with patterns have mild, stylistic elements and geometric designs. The Grammy Awards shows many different unique patterns, color and size, compared to the Academy Awards. Fifthly, in detail, frill and ruffle ornaments are shown most at the Academy Awards and Grammy Awards. Especially in the Grammy Awards, beads ornaments are used most. Sixthly, in accessory, there are many accessories of graceful, elegance styles in the Academy Awards. On the contrary to this, there are many accessories to effect on many performances of large, fancy, unique styles. Seventhly, elegance images of a goddess style among fashion images emerge as fashion of the Academy Awards. In spite of romantic styles in the Grammy Awards, many various images are the same rate as there, which means different appearance of experiment and sensational styles.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.5
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• pp.701-712
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• 2012

This study examines the various expressions and immanent value of fashion and beauty style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. I analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulation of Strategy, and Hybridization in? Ladygaga's Music Videos. The results are as follows. 'Borrow' presents a kitsch style and playful Pop-art style, transformation of gender from Mini Mouse body suit, telephone headpiece, and can hair. 'Site specificity' presents the temporarity of fashion material through rebirth, aging, natural extinction from the chain over the black jump suit, crime scene tape, and skull-face makeup with masculine style. 'Accumulation of strategy' presents a futuristic chic fashion style from a layered style, retrospective fashion, repetition and duplication in Music Videos. It shows the physical beauty of an Asian warrior style in Poker Face. 'Hybridization' present Cyborg feminism and 'Will of Power' from iPOD LCD glasses and Pyro-Bra. The Pyro-Bra represents how the female body can be used as a weapon in the outfits of Lady Gaga. In addition, Immanent value is as follows. Textual interaction with high art is accomplished through a combination of contemporary social and cultural significance to understand the cultural code and to extend the value. Combined with high culture, popular music genre is accomplished through musical appreciation by a woman in fashion styling and sensual pleasures of the body as a tool to express a sublime advantage. Fashion style is accomplished by overcoming a self-transcendent body image representation. The way in which mutual coupling dismantling, destruction, and uncertainty is to re-launch the static, with a pluralistic context of Textuality.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.60-76
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• 2009

Expression of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas plays a role of making the progress of dramas not bigoted and new. Especially, woman characters have a high weight as a heroine by an increase in their image in fusion traditional dramas. Expression of characters harmonizing modern with tradition has also given a help in reflecting a trend of the present times. Hair style and face makeup of woman characters in fusion traditional dramas are in the process of fusionization getting an effect from postmodernism. They are expressing the hair style of symbolization modern elements of hair style to traditional hair styles. They also expressed a neutral image with faded hair styles in the shaggy cut style and dye of neoplaticism. Neo-hippie style was changed into the style of naturalism and nationalism and the hair style braided in various branches as the one of Indians was changed into a primitive and national feature. It is producing a new style by permitting even a long-hair permanent wave hair style. Expression of straight hair style, a long-hair shaggy & bulging wave style and a hair style of neoplaticism, was distinguished. In the side of face makeup, they expressed its luxurious and splendid style by attaching great importance to its luster and are exposing images of characters by a smoky makeup emphasizing eye lines. Their face makeup was almost never separated from present dramas as using pearl shadow in a glossy lips makeup and color, which made it possible to express it more dramatically in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas. In the event of the makeup element of fusion traditional dramas permitting diversity, the character makeup of fusion traditional dramas made a foundation to show people diverse elements of makeup by mix & match a present elements and past elements of historical research, which made it possible to express a unique makeup or a special makeup. Diverse makeup expressions were limited by reflection of illumination even in the existing videos. Therefore, 'Fusion' made it possible to express it more freely in fusion traditional dramas than in present dramas.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.2
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• pp.280-291
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• 2004

Apparel goods are classified by many criteria for ease of merchandising implementation. Fashion and basic goods are also an oucome oi classification. Previous studies pnvide some criteria by which apparel products can be classified into fushion and basic goods. Among those ciiteria, seasonality, fashionability, clothing types, complexity in pnduction, simplicity of style, pioducuon volume, degree of style change by season, could be listed. This study, first explored how apparel merchandisers and designers define fashion and basic goods in relation with those criteria. Definitions of fashion and basic goods were explored in terms of design elements (i.e., style, color, material), production volume, sales ratio, proportion in product assortment, and contribution to profit. The study adopted a qualitative approach by use of eighteen infepth interviews with menhandisers and designers. Six were from women＇s wear brand, Seven from men＇s wear brand, and 5 from casual wear brand. All the interviewees agreed that they are using the classification of basic vs. fashion goods. However, they are using diverse terms to indicate the basic and fashion goods. The interviewees defined each group based on its contribution to total sales or profit complexity in design, production volume, and style change by season. Basic goods had a higher level of production quantity, contribute more to profit simpler design, and less style change by season than fashion goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.5
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• pp.1-17
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• 2013

As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.26
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• pp.233-250
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• 1995

The purpose of this research is to open new horizon in the plastic art centering the clothings, to examine the characteristics of the clothing style of Surrealism closely which is being lighted up again newly in the recent culture that is in a state of flux, and futher to contribute to the cre-ation of future clothes by analyzing Surrealism once again which is considered to have affected most in the aspects of idea and technique from the era of modernism to the era of post modern-ism, to understand and develop the relation of modern style of paintings and clothing which consist of many complicated and diverse elements. As for the method of research, after analyzing the formation and characteristics of painting style of Surrealism, painting style of Surrealism, painting style of Surrealism were classified largely into D paysement and Automatism, which were then reviewed. And the characteristics of fashion style of Surrealism were compared and analyzed with painting style of Surrealism, for this, fashion of Surrealism dur-ing recent five years from 1990 to 1994, among the fashion from Pr t- -Porter concentrated re-view was made for the ones made public at Paris-London Collections. By the result observed through this research, the trompe-l'oeil double image technique of many clothes created by E. Schiaparelli who was strongly influenced by Surrealism in 1930s were succeeded with its inspiration of Surrealism by the radical fashion designers recently and we were able to know that it is being created again by fresh senses. Followings are the discussions on homogenity of the characteristics of fashion style of Surreal-ism with the painting style of Surrealism Therefore if we analyze the characteristics of fashion style of Surrealism, Automatism ex-pression style which takes out only image borrowing the power of unconsciousness, instead of factual transposition, is forming the main cur-rent after 1990s. We can find the fashion style of this Surrealism appear persistently, entirely irrel-evant to the silhouettes of 20th century.