• 패션비즈니스
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.32-43
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to analyze the granny look of the new-tro trend via Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection and to provide a reference standard for future design developments by identifying the representation of the granny look. To analyze the new-tro trend and the granny look, basic concepts were analyzed through aesthetic and art books and the photographic data were collected through Internet sites. A total of 186 fashion images were considered as granny look by five clothing experts. The images were subdivided into silhouettes and items, materials, patterns, and colors to analyze the modeling factors and identify the intrinsic inner meaning based on the theory of Nostalgia. The analysis showed that the silhouette was expressed naturally without exaggeration or shrinkage. The thermosetting materials included fur, velvet, knit and quilted materials, while the colors showed raw and faded shades based on the use of natural colors. The patterns were mostly natural, such as flowers, leaves, and stalks, which were aimed at nature. The inner meaning of the granny look is based on the theory of Nostalgia, primarily because it is an emotional fairy tale and second, it reflected the sessions of nature. Also, it is a reinterpretation of the narrative. In conclusion, the academic and fashion industries need to understand the various emerging trends in accordance with the social and cultural backgrounds to derive a positive benefit.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제15권4호
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• pp.37-56
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• 2006

Introducing International Style, P. Johnson and H. R. Hitchcock gave three standards to be the Modern, volume and surface, regularity, and exclusion of applied decoration. In spite of the negation of stylistic, formal approach in the Modernist Manifestoes, one usually have understood Modernity in Architecture with its formal character, especially with no ornament and flat, abstract, white surface. Modernism as a new paradigm in architecture have emphasized that there is no representation of anything outside and only present architecture in itself. They said that Modernism only cared about the language of Architecture without figural reference. So apparently there is no way to prove to its Modernity with formal condition. Modernity is in Spirit and contents. But actually we understand well its existence by visual communication This study deals with this difficult situation how Modernity represents itself without visual media and asks the question how simultaneously it presents its thingness and materiality In order to analyse contradictory situation between representation and presentation in Modern Architecture we need to survey the historical process of changing position of ornaments and its meaning in time. With the crisis of representation the role of ornament have seriously changed and divided. It caused the two situation in pre-Modern Architecture. Firstly, Architecture tend to be a high art and formal expression became important much more. The Use of Ornament became a kind of fashion to show the power, class, money. Secondly, Ornament lost its cultural weight and the structure and material aspect became the central in architecture. Rational Structuralism would be the essential character in Modern Architecture. Here the theory of G. Semper and A. Loos on cladding(dressing) and Ornament can help its problems and limits. In the situation without conventional ornament Modernists need to present modernity with new media that only show the thing itself and by that it does not represent any thing else as like the value, idea outside buildings. They believed that only it concerned esthetics and morality in architecture. But in reality it referred to art and machines as like ships, aircraft, and cars. By excluding Ornament and showing the process of clearing, abstract, flat, white surface 'represent' Modernity by the indirect way referring the concept of transparency, reason, sanitation, tectonics, etc. An Ideology and myth intervened architectural discourse to make the doxa about the representation in Architecture. Surface must be a different kind of media and message that can communicate in different way with compared to conventional Ornament. Decorated Shed by R. Venturi and Post-Functionalism by P. Eisenman, that are the most famous post-modern discourse, shows well difficult and contradictory condition in contemporary architecture concerning representation and form, meaning and form.

• 복식
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• 제66권5호
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• pp.99-112
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to examine the higher value-added characteristics of tailored jacket designs, which are major items of French luxury brands, in an effort to raise the competitiveness of domestic fashion designs. The characteristics of the jacket designs from the 1940s to the 1970s, the golden age of Haute Couture, were examined. Based on this, the characteristics of the higher value-added expressions of the luxury brands were established by analyzing the tailored jacket designs that appeared in the Paris collection after 2010. The results are as follows: the characteristics were categorized into 'traditional value expression,' 'conceptual value expression,' 'retro value expression,' and 'creative value expression.' Traditional value was expressed as the representation of the styles inherent to the golden age of the Haute Couture houses, and the status of the luxury brands with history was represented by equally arranging the size and characteristics of the elements of the designs related to jacket silhouette. Conceptual value was reestablished as contemporary identity into which the traditional ideology of the houses and the present designers' sentiments were grafted by developing the designs with the theme containing the identity of the past Haute Couture houses. Retro value was utilized as the strategy to differentiate the luxury brands with long history from contemporary products. Creative value was expressed as tailored jackets with new concepts of shape variation and usage conversion by combining creative sentiments with the high quality techniques of Haute Couture and appears to be able to create a new consumption market of luxury brands in the global fashion market.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.31-44
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• 2002

This study was intended to inquire into Check Pattern. The purpose of this study attempted to make a systematic investigation of the characteristic of the Check Pattern, the checker using vertical and horizontal lines which was the universal plastic element and inquire into it in terms of era, designers and combined work. By doing so, this study attempted to Investigate the phase of the Check Pattern in world fashion and further forecast the future of checker design applicable to the 21th century fashion. The result can be summarized as follows : 1. Mondrim's neo-plasticism has not only had a great influence on Op Art and Minimalism work but is deeply related to fashion and textile design. Mondrian used vertical and horizontal line ad the dualistic element. 2. The checker is estimated to have been used since the Etruian times, though uncertain. and largely divided into the Madras check and Scotland Check. Though the origin of the tartan representation of the Scotland check can not be accurately found out, it began to emerge in around the 13th century. 3. Check Pattern has began to be widely used with the development of the textile industry since 1826 and been used in every typical Sihoutto appearing in each era up to the present. And Check Pattern is used most designer in the world, who represent their own personality in their works. This study could find out that the checker is the element of Infinite applicability in the future. It is expected that the sophisticated and beautiful design using the chocker will be presented by many korean designer though the overall and systematic study of the checker.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.371-382
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• 2000

Fashion, a means of communication, is the symbol conveying the social information and the individual identity. The opulence of material and the development of civilization make the sign of fashion variable and individual; especially, The importance of hair style among the today's sign of fashion, as a determinant element in judging each person's look is emphasized. Kitsch, based on the variety and the individuality is the manner of art in diverse hobbies. In addition, it enlarges the sphere of modern an, creates new open aesthetic world. Therefore, we need to understand the symbol of Kitsch aestetic represented in hair style, which is meaningful. The method of this study is quality analysis by means of semiology, aesthetics, Fashion artical, magazine, atc. To support this statement, we will study the form, a primary symbol, and the ideology, a secondly one in $\ulcorner$Mythologies$\lrcorner$ of Roland Bartes(1972). Then by means of the form and the ideology, we will try to recognize the myth, an essential symbol. The result of this study is following like these three points. First, the Kitsch patterns of representation in hair style use the accumulation by an excessive ornamentation; the inappropriateness by the lack of form, the disagreement, the unbalance, and the nonfunctional form; and finally, the amusement by the reconstruction, the exotic, and the satire. The above three is true to the Barthes's primary symbol-the form. Second, the anti-traditionality(including the lack of form, the disagreement, and the unbalance), the homesickness(including the reconstruction and the exotic), and the eclecticism(including the parody and the mixed imitation) are created as the ideology of the liberal artistic notion, different from the past outlooks on aesthetic. This is true to the Barthes's secondly symbol-the ideology. Third, the form and the ideology enable us to express our own thoughts and to recover the humanity, which is the primary purpose of Kitsch aesthetic. The Kitsch hair style, as we witness, does lead the varied and liberal aesthetic world, create its accessible value, and place the art of hair style in a higher status.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제27권4호
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• pp.353-367
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• 2019

These days, costumes of Korean creative dancing performances have been changed to be modernized and to be out of traditional regulation, as the representation of the Korean styles were replaced by other props and art devices. In this article, we have applied the emotions expressed in Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos (Korean traditional poems), to Korean creative dancing costumes in modern style. chose three typical sijos from her six pieces, titled "Green mountain is like what I've meant", "To Byeokgyesoo in Cheongsan-ri" and "Dongjibam ginaginbam". In brief, Jin-Yi Hwang expressed her "everlasting love and emptiness", "temptative conciliation" and "eager waiting" these three sijos, respectively. The character of Jin-Yi Hwang was shown in many TV soap operas and films, and the costumes were either much modernized, and not accurately based on the sijos she had written. Thus, we designed, made flat sketched, and fabricated three Korean creative dancing costumes from the three sijos, listed. We tried to highlight the aesthetic impression and the activeness of the dancing costumes, using both traditional and modern Korean fabrics. Since Korean dance costumes had not yet been inspired from Jin-Yi Hwang's sijos, we discussed the importance of the fabric items, as well as the visual, auditory, and tactile characteristics of the costumes and dancers to emphasize Jin-Yi Hwang's expressed emotions.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.262-280
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the organic forms, expressions, and characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion design and to present various materials for understanding and utilizing this organic design style. The criteria for organic design expressions and characteristics were classified through a literature review, and the organic design characteristics of Alexander McQueen's fashion were then analyzed. The results are as follows: First, the morphological characteristics of nature's forms are used as objects in Alexander McQueen's fashions to represent organic characteristics. Second, abstraction through the application of organic forms means creating an abstract representation of the object being represented. Abstracting organic forms occurs by partially modifying the structural features of the human body to show characteristics or by visualizing these characteristics within the surface of the natural object. Third, continuity through the expression of the formation process of organisms is characteristic of the expression of the gradual growth of organisms; this reinterpretation is based on the concept that the internal elements of natural objects affect their external forms. Fourth, the structure of using natural materials, as well as regional and cultural characteristics, is shown in the designs through use of the physical characteristics of expressions and materials that use natural elements. Fifth, symbolism through subjective thinking implies that the element of nature that an object expresses is the element that appears in nature; this includes created organisms along with environmental factors. These characteristics are best demonstrated in fashion designs that express themselves through creativity.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.16-28
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate the content and changes of modern Korean men's wear advertisement from the 1960s to the 1990s by reviewing fashion magazines and pictorials. Research problems were as follows.; First, analyze the types and their units of measurement in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Second, examine the differences of quantitative change in men's fashion advertisements according to each period. The total 857 advertisements were selected from Shin Dong-A, Joongang Magazine, and Bokjangwolbo from 1972 to 1998. For analyze the result, frequency analysis and $x^2$-test were used. Results were as follows. First, through the review of literatures and pre-tests, 6 units of measurement were identified. They were product type(formal wear, casual wear, sports wear, dress shirts, accessory, inner wear, fabric and the others), brand type(national brand, licensed brand, imported brand, others), appeal type(image, product, others), representation type(photograph, illustration, others), medium type(man, product, others), and color type of advertisement(black & white picture, color picture). Second, for the types of advertisements, formal wear, national brand, image appeal, figure medium, photograph for presentation and color picture are the most frequently shown in men's fashion advertisements from 1962 to 1998. Third, for product, more accessory advertisements were found than the clothing in the 60s and the 70s, and casual wear advertisements in the 80s and formal wear advertisements in the 90s were dominated. National brand type was dominant through all four period. Product appeal type in the 60s and the 70s and image appeal type in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. For medium, product type in the 60s and the 70s and figure type in the 80s and the 90s were dominated. Black & white picture in the 60s and the 70s and color picture in the 80s and the 90s were prevailed. Lastly, photograph was the most frequently used for presentation type through all periods.

• 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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• 제21권2호
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• pp.123-132
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• 2012

In the trend of concentrating on the consumer driven experience market as a new marketing concept according to the improvement of life standard and the change of consummation pattern, SPA brand has applied experience marketing strategies to the market successfully to be grown constantly with consumer secure and production of business benefit through brand image and positive consumer attraction. Therefore, this study aims to research the experiential representation element and attribute in the competitive Global SPA brand space due to the sustainable growth from the recent domestic fashion market based on the strategy type of the experiential marketing. Thus, the experiential marketing strategy type was drawn based on the experiential marketing and the theoretical reflections of Global SPA brand, and the SPA brand space was classified depending on the attribute of the commercial space for making the framework of case analysis, so it was progressed as the method of analysis through the experiential representation attribute in the SPA brand space. The marketing strategy and representation for advertising the image of company and product message by the SPA brand should be planned, so successful application of the experiential marketing to the shop is connected to the corporate interests, and forming the meaning more than space by impressing on the consumers the brand and arousing the emotional experience of the consumers and meeting the consumers' a variety of needs had effects on forming a lasting relationship between the brand and consumers. Therefore, this study is expected to be an opportunity to vitalize the domestic SPA brand behind the competition with the Global SPA brand.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제28권2호
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• pp.245-264
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• 2020

This study identifies Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun as actor-networks with cultural values and meanings. It analyzes the process of reorganizing their works into Korean orientalism via an action of co-construction with formative techniques. First, the historical context of orientalism formed in the fashion world will be studied, followed by the design characteristics of orientalism, and the correlation between the Korean orientalism of these designers on the world stage influenced by the globalization discourse of Korean tradition since the 1980s. Next, works of Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun from 2000 to 2012 will be analyzed, revealing aspects of Korean image reproduction. Consequently, this study finds that the Korean image is restructured socio-culturally through technological imagery as a reproduction of reality by the production subject. This study reminds us of the reflective and cultural meaning of fashion designers in the area of image reproduction, sociocultural practice, and materials and technology.