DOI QR코드

DOI QR Code

The interpretation of Korean orientalism as the practice of globalization of tradition - The study on the designers Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun's works from 2000 to 2012 -

전통 세계화의 실천으로서 한국적 오리엔탈리즘(Orientalism)의 해석 - 2000년부터 2012년까지 디자이너 김지해·이진윤의 작품을 중심으로 -

  • 최승연 (목포대학교 아시아문화연구소)
  • Received : 2020.02.13
  • Accepted : 2020.04.23
  • Published : 2020.04.30

Abstract

This study identifies Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun as actor-networks with cultural values and meanings. It analyzes the process of reorganizing their works into Korean orientalism via an action of co-construction with formative techniques. First, the historical context of orientalism formed in the fashion world will be studied, followed by the design characteristics of orientalism, and the correlation between the Korean orientalism of these designers on the world stage influenced by the globalization discourse of Korean tradition since the 1980s. Next, works of Kim Jihaye and Lee Jeanyoun from 2000 to 2012 will be analyzed, revealing aspects of Korean image reproduction. Consequently, this study finds that the Korean image is restructured socio-culturally through technological imagery as a reproduction of reality by the production subject. This study reminds us of the reflective and cultural meaning of fashion designers in the area of image reproduction, sociocultural practice, and materials and technology.

Keywords

References

  1. Abcd-italy. (2008). Jihaye Kim 2008 S/S [Blog Post]. Retrieved February 2, 2020, from http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=abcd_italy&logNo=30027632564
  2. Aufeminin. (2011). Jihaye Kim Parigi Haute Couture PE 2011. Retrieved February 2, 2020, from https://www.alfemminile.com/lifestyle/album743302/sfilata-yumi-katsura-by-ji-haye-parigi-haute-couturepe-2011-0.html#p21
  3. Barnes, B., & Edge, D. (Eds.) (1982). Science in context. Milton Keynes: Open University Press.
  4. Beak, E. J. (2003). (The) narrative interpretaion depicted on the romantic orintalism. Unpublished master's thesis, Cheju University, Cheju, Korea.
  5. Bestdresser. (2001). Jihaye Kim 2001 F/W [Blog Post]. Retrieved February 2, 2020, from http://cafe.daum.net/Bestdresser/D2hQ/12735?q=Ji%20Haye
  6. Bestdresser. (2002). Jihaye Kim 2002 S/S [Blog Post]. Retrieved February 2, 2020, from http://cafe.daum.net/Bestdresser/D2hQ/12735?q=Ji%20Haye
  7. Bijker, W., Hughes, T. P., & Pinch, T. F. (Eds.) (1987). The social construction of technological systems. Cambridge: The MIT Press.
  8. Cho, K. H. (1990). Costume aesthetics. Seoul: Soohaksa.
  9. Cho, Y. J. (2005). A study on work using the expressions of handcrafts displayed in orientalism. Unpublished master's thesis, Sung Kyun Kwan University, Seoul, Korea.
  10. Choi, H. J., & An, E. K. (2003). A study on the formative feature characteristics of domestic retrospective fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 53(2), 137-151.
  11. Choi, J. Y. (2010). A study on the orientalism expressed in the fashion - Textiles of 2000's -. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 16(4), 543-556.
  12. Choi, W. J. (2017). Characteristics of Lie Sang Bong fashion collection - Focused on the fashion designs adapting Korean image -. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Hongik University, Seoul, Korea.
  13. Choi, Y. H., & Eun, Y. J. (2005). Research on sensibility image of pattern applying the formative elements of a traditional Jokakbo: The surface composition and colors. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 13(2), 289-299.
  14. Choi, Y. S., & Kim, S. Y. (2011). A study on the Korea image used by domestic designers in entering the overseas market by the chronological classfication. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 14(3), 77-88.
  15. Choo, S. H. (2001). Image of fashion fabric based on color and texture. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Yonsei University, Seoul, Korea.
  16. Chu, S. O. (2010). Zen and orientalism in western modern arts. Mihak - The Korean Journal of Aesthetics, 64, 227-260.
  17. Davis, M. L. (1980). Visual design in dress. New York: Prentice-Hall.
  18. Geum, I. S. (2004). Orientalism as a set of representations in american popular culture. Discourse, 201, 6(2), 277-317.
  19. Ha, S. J. (2004). Comparative analysis of oriental image in modern fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Hong-Ik University, Seoul, Korea.
  20. Han, S. M. (2010). Orientalism expressed in contemporary underclothes. Unpublished master's thesis, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  21. Heo, J. M. (2001). A study on the oriental style expressed in the fashion of the 20th century. Unpublished master's thesis, Catholic University, Seoul, Korea.
  22. Jeong, H. L. (2019). The paradigm shift of modern Hanbok. Unpublished master's thesis, Gyeongsang National University, Jinju, Korea.
  23. Jeong, S. S. (2011). A study on the development of the dance under the discourse of nationalism (1961-1992). Journal of Korean Dance, 29(2), 123-146. doi:10.15726/jkd.2011.29.2.006
  24. Kang, M. R. (2012). M. foucault's legacy in orientalism of E. W. Said. Philosophy and Culture, 25, 253-271.
  25. Kiskis99. (2004). Jihaye Kim 2004 F/W [Blog Post]. Retrieved February 2, 2020, from http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=kiskis99&logNo=120006509416
  26. Kim, K. S. (2019). Vico's influence on Edward Said's orientalism. Unpublished master's thesis, Chung-Buk University of Education, Chungju, Korea.
  27. Kim, M. C. (2011). Senses and society: On visual and haptic sensation. Korean Association for Visual Culture, 18(18), 7-32.
  28. Kim, M. J. (2004). A study on the source of Hanbok in ancient times and the position of Hanbok on the globalism. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 7(1), 7-15.
  29. Kim, M. J. (2013). The texture and image by components of fabrics in fashion trend books. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  30. Kim, M. Y. (2010). A study on textile design applied the oriental motif. Unpublished master's thesis, Sungkyunkwan University, Seoul, Korea.
  31. Kim, S. J. (2007). Reading the transformations of women's clothes in postcolonial Korea: Gender politics of tradition and modernity. Issues in Feminism, 7(2), 281-320.
  32. Kim, S. M. (2017). The aesthetic characteristics of Korean design in Lee Younghee's works. Unpublished master's thesis, Chungnam University, Daejon, Korea.
  33. Kim, S. Y., & Lee, D. E. (2005). Focused on a comparative study on western, Japanese and Korean architecture under imperialism. Journal of the Architectural Institute of Korea Planning & Design, 21(4), 105-112.
  34. Kim, Y. H. (1991). The form of oriental dress depicted on the 20th century western fashion(I) - Selected from vogue -. Family and Environment Research, 29(1), 1-12.
  35. Kim, Y. K. (2010). A study on color characteristic of the Korean images represented by Lee Young Hee's collection. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 16(3), 86-94.
  36. Kim, Y. R. (2000). The clothing world of Lee Young Hee's. Unpublished master's thesis, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  37. Kim, Y. W., & Choi, J. M. (2009). Preference and sensibility for velvet, suede and corduroy fabrics. Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference, 2009, 243-244.
  38. Kim, Y. W., & Choi, J. M. (2010). Color sensibility and preference of the black color fabrics. Korean Journal of the Science of Emotion & Sensibility, 13(2), 337-346.
  39. Ku, N. O. (2004). A study on Korean traditional costume designs appeared with overseas collections [1] - Focus on Korean classic skirt -. Journal of Korean Traditional Costume, 7(1), 41-54.
  40. Kwak, T. G., & Kim, E. J. (2002). Study on total fashion in orientalism fashion. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 52(5), 109-127.
  41. Latour, B. (1983). Science observed. London: Sage Publication.
  42. Latour, B., Woolgar, S., & Salk, J. (Eds.) (1986). Laboratory life: The construction of scientific facts. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University Press.
  43. Law, J., & Bijker, W. E. (1992). Shaping technology/building society. Cambridge: The MIT Press.
  44. Lee, C. H. (2000). A semiotic analysis of Asian image reflected in modern clothing. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Chung-Ang University, Seoul, Korea.
  45. Lee, E. S. (2004). A study on the expression of orientalism in the modern fashion. Journal of the Korean Fashion & Costume Design Association, 6(1), 25-33.
  46. Lee, H. J. (1999). Fashion design. Seoul: Gyohakyeongusa.
  47. Leejeanyoun. (2004). Jeanyoun Lee 2004 F/W [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  48. Leejeanyoun. (2005). Jeanyoun Lee 2005 S/S [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  49. Leejeanyoun. (2006). Jeanyoun Lee 2006 F/W [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  50. Leejeanyoun. (2007). Jeanyoun Lee 2007 S/S [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  51. Leejeanyoun. (2010a). Jeanyoun Lee 2010 S/S [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  52. Leejeanyoun. (2010b). Jeanyoun Lee 2010 Baleusellona [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  53. Leejeanyoun. (2011a). Jeanyoun Lee 2011 S/S [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  54. Leejeanyoun. (2011b). Jeanyoun Lee 2011 F/W [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  55. Leejeanyoun. (2012). Jeanyoun Lee 2012 S/S [Blog Post]. Retrieved March 2, 2020, from https://blog.naver.com/leejeanyoun/100100988518
  56. Lee, J. S., & Shin, H. W. (2003). The sensibilities of cotton fabrics. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 27(7), 800-808.
  57. Lee, K. E. (2003). Color research on orientalism fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Hong Ik University, Seoul, Korea.
  58. Lee, S. (2015). A study on the decline and continuation of french haute couture. Unpublished master's thesis, Yonsei University, Seoul, Korea.
  59. Lee, S. Y. (2015). A study on the jewelry of orientalism. Unpublished master's thesis, Kyungsung University, Busan, Korea.
  60. Lee, Y. J. (1992). A study on fashion design of the orientalism - With special reference to the silkroad pattern -. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  61. Lee, Y. S., Shin, J. W., An, M. Y., & Kim, E. A. (2001). Effect of fabric structural characteristics on the images and sensibilities. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 25(8), 1408-1419.
  62. Lee, Y. Y. (2011). An iconological analysis of Lee Young Hee's fashion design. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 17(4), 473-483.
  63. Lim, S. R. (2008). The coreanism in modern fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Dongduk Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  64. Min, S. H. (2012). Representing technosciences & design: Rethinking their (in/visible) influential relationships. Proceedign of the Bi-annual Design Confernece of KSDS, 2012, 66-67.
  65. Moon, H. S. (2018). A study of E. Said's orientalism and Hagiwara Sakutaro's viewpoint of western culture. Unpublished doctoral dissertation, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  66. Nam, K. S., & Han, M. S. (2004). A study on the evaluation of clothing pattern image by the personality type. The Research Journal of the Costume Culture, 12(1), 59-72.
  67. Oudshoorn, N., & Pinch, T. J. (Eds.) (2005). How users matter: The co-construction of users and technology. Cambridge, Mass: MIT Press.
  68. Park, J. W. (2016). A study of orientalism-reflected modern makeup characteristic. Journal of Basic Design & Art, 17(6), 213-227.
  69. Park, S. O. (2002). A study on the influence of orientalism on modern fashion design. Unpublished master's thesis, Hanyang University, Seoul, Korea.
  70. Rim, S. Y. (2003). A study on Edward W. Said's orientalism. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul National University, Seoul, Korea.
  71. Row, Y., & Park, J. O. (2008). A study on apparel product design elements according to image preference: Applied to quality function deployment focused on middle aged and aged women's formal wear. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, 32(10), 1522-1534. https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2008.32.10.1522
  72. Said, E. (1991). Orientalism (H. G. Park, Trans.). Seoul: Kyobobook. (Original work published 1979)
  73. Seo, B. H. (2014). A study on establishment of the concept of orientalism in fashion. Korean Society of Fashion Design, 14(1), 51-68.
  74. Sha. (2003). Jihaye Kim 2003 F/W [Blog Post]. Retrieved February 2, 2020, from http://blog.naver.com/PostView.nhn?blogId=gorgeoussj&logNo=80016491946
  75. Sim, M. Y. (2013). A study of contemporary costume expression with orientalism. Unpublished master's thesis, Kunkuk University, Seoul, Korea.
  76. Shin, S. Y., & Kim, Y. I. (2013). The classification of fashion frame and fashion image of Korean women in their twenties and thirties. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, 63(4), 118-131. doi:10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.118.
  77. Sung, H. S. (2001). A study on orientalism style of modern fasahion - Concentrating on Chinese pattern -. Unpublished master's thesis, Seoul Women's University, Seoul, Korea.
  78. Tucker, A., & Kingswell, T. (2000). Fashion: A crash course. Seoul: Yadam.
  79. Yang, J. H. (2019). Edward W. Said's analysis of orientalism and representation. The Historical Journal, 69(69), 327-355. https://doi.org/10.20457/SHA.69.11
  80. Yoo, Y. H., & Lee, Y. Y. (2017). Analysis of Korean image in Lie Sang Bong's fashion collection. Journal of the Korean Society of Design Culture, 23(4), 337-349. https://doi.org/10.18208/ksdc.2017.23.4.337
  81. Yoon, M. J. (1992). A study on the orientalism of modern fashion. Unpublished master's thesis, Ewha Womans University, Seoul, Korea.
  82. Zang, S. M. (2001). A study on orientalism in modern fashion - The case of fashion designer collections since the '90s -. Unpublished master's thesis, Kookmin University, Seoul, Korea.