• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.10
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• pp.38-50
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• 2009

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in 2000s fashion. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for 2000s fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the similarity and the representation mimesis, the symbol mimesis and the abstraction mimesis. In fashion, the representation mimesis included a natural and a folk, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The symbol mimesis included psychology and fear symbol mimesis. The abstraction mimesis included hard color, a geometric simplification and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in 2000s modern fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.205-215
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• 2014

This study analyzed 'The representation of death' as expressed in the fashion photography posted on Facebook. Currently, there is a growing interest in 'Well-dying'. Also contemporary art and fashion is a trend that expressed what about death more than life. And today, Facebook is one of the current worldwide as a powerful communication. Death representation in contemporary fashion photography, as expressed in its first characteristic is 'Vanitas', and the main material was a skull. The shape of a skeleton of the symbol of death. Vanitas of inner meaning is vain, a mortal life's futility and death for the paradoxical emotion. The second characteristic is 'Phantom of the ruins'. This is like the darkness of death, and the shape represented in that space. And the death representation is depressed, gloomy atmosphere, dead-man and warm-less. Inner meaning is curiosity about the ghosts and the decadence romantic about the afterlife. The last characteristic is 'Grotesque'. This characteristic is the destruction of the body, fear of sadistic, and inhuman shape. This is parable with death that pain and fear of death, dark fantasy, the appearance of a contradiction modern society and cut off humanity. Inner meaning is the dark fear of death and the anger of wrong of the present society. At present, we have to reproduce the death, and what we want is eventually no one can escape 'Attention to death'. In addition, by expressing the solidarity between death and life is to want to get a consolation for the anxiety and afraid reality.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.906-917
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to examine the characteristics of expression and their effects of New painting in fashion illustration since 1990s. This study is focused on searching for the development in expressional techniques of the fashion illustration on the basis of various techniques of New painting. New painting as a trend of new expressionism in America was developed in opposition to the minimalism in the 1980s when the discussion of the post-modernism was most widely. The artists of New painting attempted to resurrect figure through the representation of figure and concrete image, rich in color and strong in image. They also expressed the realistic scene of life with the various kind of medium, materials and styles and appropriation of image from mass media and popular culture. The representation of fashion figure and image through the various kind of painting medium, techniques and styles can express the realistic and sensitive image and increase the communication ability in fashion illustration. It could also deliver the fashion message more clearly through the appropriation of image. These findings indicate that fashion illustrations accept variety by interacting with fine arts and expand the scope of expression.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.309-320
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• 2011

Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in media costume design. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for media costume design. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and media DVD, video, fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the external representation mimesis, the internal symbol mimesis and the multiful meta mimesis. In media costume, the representation mimesis included design historical point of view, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The internal mimesis included symbol of religion, character, riches, psychology and fear mimesis. The multiful meta mimesis included hybrid and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in media costume design fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to pursue the way of human body expression for prospecting of future fashion illustration through research of the methods and meaning expressed in the works of 30 years by Antonio Lopez. The research was conducted by looking into the perception of the body between 1960s and 1980s, when Lopez worked actively, on the basis of the discourse, art and fashion for the femininity and studying the representation method and meaning of the body in his works. Lopez suggested an index of the ideal beauty of the times through the representation of the immature body like a child in the 60s, the glamorous body in the 70s and the exaggerated muscular body in the 80s by predicting the changes of the perception of femininity and ideal beauty. As the result of this research, it is found that Lopez employed the art form for the representation of the body in his works and presented the polysemous implications of the art form in the context of the body expression. In addition, he redefined sexuality by focusing on the code that confronted the conventional women's morals by changing the representation method of the women's pose, and depicted the other's image such as the colored races, departing from the ideal human body based on the white women. Lastly, he deconstructed the human body in various ways, thereby enlarging the concept of the human body in the existing fashion illustration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.184-192
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• 2012

This study analyzed silhouette expressions in the fashion illustrations by theory based on results of studying the characteristics of the forms and meanings of the silhouette expressions in art historically. For the actual considering this study collected and categorized fashion illustrations from 1990 to the present limitedly, and clarified the meaning of the silhouette expressions. Those expressions in fashion illustrations were categorized to the 5 items; black & white silhouette, color silhoutte, pattern silhouette, paper silhouette, line silhouette. Silhouette expressions of the fashion illustrations were categorized to 3 items: metaphorical fantasy, essential minimization, anonymous representation.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.68-77
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• 2005

In contemporary advertising market, one of main trends is to speak surrealistic visual language which provides 'enjoyable spectacles'. Specially, in the beginning of 21st century, there discovered more and more exhibitions and discourses about surrealism reinterpreted from the viewpoint of postmodernism. Surrealism as a creative style of expression based upon free association, has been a great inspiration for fashion ads for commercial communication as well as fashion design since its origin. However, there has been ignored the idea of analyzing surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads in spite of their flood. Accordingly, the purpose of this study is to grasp its cultural meaning through analyzing aesthetic characteristics of surrealistic image expressed in fashion ads. It will provide a better understanding of surrealistic image in fashion ads reflecting popular taste and preference directly as popular visual culture, focusing on post modern context. A case study of surrealistic fashion ads limits to TV or print commercials and digital ads as image ads stimulating visual expressions. The Results can be summarized as follows. Surrealism is an avant garde style which deconstructs the established meaning system as well as the existing formalistic order and then put them together in the frame of 'dream' and 'unconsciousness'. Defamiliarization questioning the whole edifice of representation can be adapted to. By means of paradox and metaphor, unfamiliar new visual world can be represented. The plastic characteristics of surrealistic image in fashion ads are founded as surrealistic styling of time and space, distortion of object by methods of automatism, depaysement, parody and trompe-l'oeil which bring about the deconstruction of gestalt. Aesthetic values of surrealistic fashion ads appear as dualistic representation, allegoric symbolism, fantastic romanticism. Ultimately they lead to marvelous. mysterious, humorous visual effects. Foster reinterpreted these effects of surrealism from Freud's 'Uncanny Concept'. 'Uncanny' means the phenomenon recurring to familiar being defamiliarized by repression. Surrealistic fashion ads strengthen this shocking effect more and more dramatically in company with our post modern needs for fantastic adventure and thrilling spectacle. It can be thought that surrealistic fashion ads reflects uncanny as an alternative which can relieve us of our stress and anxiety and which realize our potential desire in contemporary post industrial stage.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.197-204
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• 2000

With the current of the end of a century and social, economic, political, and cultural turbulence, people take advantage of the various ways to express their stagnation. This study introduces the term representativity and it will explain the men's fashion of the end of a century. On a theoretical basis, the concept of the representativity, image, symbol and imitation which are used as a tool for expression will be examined, and together with this, inner representation and outer representation will be categorized. The inner representation of the men's fashion in the end of a century can be taken for the purpose of connecting the image of masculinity. The image of masculinity is widely spread owing to the mass communication of a consumption-oriented society, so its hard to define that image as one thing specific. Hence, in order to discuss the male gender and mens fashion, New Man phenomenon should be noticed of. 1980's New Man influence has lasted till now. New Man images were largely categorized into two images like New Lad and Iron John after the mid 1990's. Therefore, the image of masculinity is largely classified New lad, who desires success and pursues the hedonistic life style and Iron John, who enjoys thrill and follows economical life style. The image of masculinity has influence on the outer representation how it is imitated and symbolized via many designer's works and street fashion. Two masculinity images are dominant over the men's fashion of the end of a century. One is inhumane and rational corporate power look that stems from symbolization and imitation of New Lad. The other is outdoor casual that originated from the symbolization and imitation of Iron John.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.40-57
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• 2013

In examining the relationship between fashion and art which are intimately interrelated, the body is a suitable subject in that it is the common object of representation. This study investigates and compares the images of the body in Francis Bacon's paintings from 1940s to 1970s and the formative aspect and aesthetic value of the abstract body images in Rei Kawakubo's designs since 1980s. The figures in Bacon's paintings are confusingly and atypically deformed as well as distorted, which are the combinations of the anatomies without references, not so much represented objects as experienced sense. Kawakubo's designs attempt to deform the body, moreover, she transforms the body; represent abstract forms without association with any other figures that exist, emphasizing sculptural or architectural shapes of garment. She suggests extensive visual language of dress by challenging the norms of beauty. The body in Bacon and Kawakubo's works is dispersive as well as complex in that the body images are deconstructed, fragmented, and exaggerated. Respectively, they articulate the perception of the body in postmodernism era by destroying the myth of subject; furthermore establish the aesthetics that transcend conventional ideals by reevaluating as well as refusing the standards of beauty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.67 no.4
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• pp.131-152
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyze modern fashion culture in the 20th century through changes in transmedia in order to better understand characteristics of fashion contents. The study also strived to identify the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion and media by exploring the cultural code, and use it to establish an integrated view. The subjects and the method of the study are as follows. First, the study analyzed the development of transmedia and fashion culture since the 20th century. Second, it identified the transitional characteristics of transmedia. Third, the study analyzed the characteristics of remediation in modern fashion culture by using the characteristics of mediation, which appeared with the transitional characteristics of transmedia. The study results are as follows. First, the types of remediation are 'borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Refashion,' and 'Absorb.' In old and new media, each type can be aesthetically experienced in 'transparency,' opaqueness,' 'Hypermediacy,' and 'Immediacy.' Second, fashion culture can undergo a transformation from its original form to a second and a third iteration, and this process allows for possibility of an expansion of multiple plots and well-rounded character settings. This opens up the possibility for fashion consumer participation, and signifies a transition into an environment where expansion of time and space is possible. The third finding is the non-mediation of fashion objects. The mediating relationship between clothes and media is directly connected to the development of new media. The immersion of new media by fashion consumers has the characteristics of 'transparency'/'Non-mediation,' and the reinterpretation and reproduction of original fashion styles have the characteristics of 'opaqueness'/'Hyper-mediation.' Fourth, fashion culture has data variability. Through 'Borrowing,' 'Representation,' 'Expansion,' 'Remodeling,' and 'Absorption,' the cultural hierarchy of reproduced fashion forms a multi-layered integrated network. Mediation code, which repurposes fashion culture contents, also creates new media fashion through transmedia.