• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.53 no.6
• /
• pp.161-173
• /
• 2003

The purpose of this paper is to classify fashion and trend, and examine how his fashionable philosophy reflects design. What affects his fashion philosophy is Western culture and Paris Revolution. Taking this opportunity, he outgrew the concept of haute couture and established specific fashion philosophy. His fashion philosophy is classified under consideration for women, respect for free emotions, recognition of tradition, and an active intercourse with many people. The characteristics of design through his philosophy are as following: 1. He wanted to release women from clothing restrained the body and make comfortable clothing which everyone can wear. This implies the consideration for women. It is the characteristics of his design to the harmony of functionality, simplicity, decoration and popularity. 2. He respected the free emotions and induced people to wear each parts of clothing which is dismantled freely within the limits coincided with clothing teleology-'wear', It implies autonomy. He also unfolded experimental design: gives the regular space between the clothing and the body and then distorts the body or maximizes modeling. It implies the beauty of space. 3. He elicited the modern design through recognition of tradition. It implies contemporaneousness. 4, As he thought that all of the concepts is based on human, he derived inspiration firm an active intercourse with many people, He established a new style through an active intercourse with artists because if he works alone, he would rise above the popular trend, It comes to the gest artist serieE and implies popularity, The characteristics of design in his fashion philosophy is classified into experimental design and practical design. But the important factor of his fashion philosophy is popularity so he would like to make popular clothing. He designs clothing which fit the public. It results from his firm fashion philosophy that his clothing is practical and decorative and he establishes his works meeting needs of modern. It is the reason that his clothing has perpetuity.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.5
• /
• pp.12-26
• /
• 2002

The purpose of this study is considering about the fashion of Korean National Flag in the point of view of sociology and philosophy. The contents are the philosophy of the Korean National Flag-'Taegk', the Great Absolute in Korean philosophy, and the historical fashion trend of The Korean National Flag. The results of characteristics of The Korean National Flag are summarized as following; 1. The Korean National Flag contains 'Taegk' philosophy, the source of the dual principle 'Yn' and 'Yang'. 2. The design of 'Taegk' has been showed in Korean society traditionally. 3. The fashion of Korean National Flag dramatically is changed after Korea/Japan World cup 2002. 4. The Korean National Flag is the strong symbol of Korean society, affirmatively, same as the American National Flag.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.4
• /
• pp.611-621
• /
• 2009

As fashion is a visual symbol that reflects age and culture, cosmetics and beauty are other products of fashion that move the time. A dominant designer of 20th century Chanel does not merely stand for a design innovation of fashion industry that created a vogue. With liberation from corsets that cruelly exaggerated and suppressed female body, meaning of style in modern fashion could be found not only in clothing but also in make-up and hair style. Simplest possible comfort was aimed for, and philosophical concepts of minimalism, modernism and dandyism were incorporated with clothing, cosmetics, perfume, make-up and hair style to establish aesthetical concept of total fashion. Chanel thought of cosmetics as an accessory with essential role and although her philosophy on cosmetics and beauty is not as well known as her clothing style, the authors believe that understanding such philosophy will become an important stepping stone for accurately understanding Chanel style. The purpose of this study is to firstly illuminate the idea that cosmetic beauty can be studied with artistic and philosophical background in addition to its functional side and to secondly investigate the reason why Chanel style is being loved by women with such durability over time and space and with what tempo fashion is connected with cosmetic beauty culture and develops. Third, by studying the ways in which characteristics of Chanel's fashion philosophy are expressed in cosmetics and beauty culture, this study aims to accurately understand Chanel's philosophy on cosmetics and beauty. The meaning of this study can be found by showing the evidence that globalization of Korean fashion beauty culture can be achieved only when cosmetics and beauty culture moves with an intimate connection to clothing culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.8
• /
• pp.1206-1217
• /
• 1999

This study is focused on 'mysticism' in fashion which is recently marked as one of the cultural phenomenon emerging at the end of the century, First of all the concept of 'mysticism' and 'occultism' are reviewed to define the mysticism in fashion. Mysticism as a cultural phenomenon is also examined in historical and social context. With these theoretical basis articles which were publshed in 1990s from Korean newspapers and magazines which reported cultural phenomenon related to mysticism are analyzed and categorized. Finally these categories are applied to fashion phenomenon and 'mysticimsm in fashion' is analyzed and clearly examined as a fashion trend. As a result mysticism in fashion that has arose as an end of the century phenomenon within the historical and social context could be categorized into five groups such as 'primitive religion' ' Christianity ' 'oriental philosophy' 'universe' and 'magic and witchcraft'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.7-16
• /
• 2006

What enabled Armany to grow into a world fashion designer is based on two factors : postmodernism of the new spirit of the times and the fashion industry of Italy, his mother country. That is, his capability to connect the spirit of the times with his works and use local advantage for his works led him to be a maestro of fashion circles. Founding on his outstanding ability, he established his own world of unique design, where his philosophy of design remained. This philosophy was a distinctive character from other designers. Since he was founded on this philosophy, his own features that other designers can't imitate are dissolved in his designs. Armany is very suggestive to our design circles which look for globalization of fashion. A fashion designer should look straight at the fact that the final aim of fashion is to satisfy customers who buy it. In addition, he should recognize that understanding customers' demands and developing products with his fashion style in accordance with them are the way to success and study new things continually by setting up the direction of the future based on the recognition. It is essential to cultivate sensitivity to create a new beauty from a basis just like Armany expresses modern women's image by harmonizing rationality and functionality, the existing male features, with female pliability adequately. As well, the analyses of design made by Armany are thought to be helpful in reestablishing fashion design education so that unique design styles may be maintained and future-oriented international fashion products may be produced.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.13 no.2
• /
• pp.111-121
• /
• 2000

Jacques Derrida took off the self-contradiction of structuralism and built up a theory so called "Deconstruct". By issuing a series of papers which strongly criticized the existing western philosophy, he drew into 'strangers' alienated and deconstructed the methodology of structuralism by getting out of the antagonistic thought attaching great importance to Logos. Discomposition is realized by exposing the ex-structural elements existed inside of structuralism, and is an open philosophy recognizing the dignity and freedom of an individual than the general structure in the methodology of structuralism. Discomposition is a theory for criticizing the conservative thought frame traditional western philosophy, and deconstruct as a method of criticism persists a new epistemology by questioning to all texts including a text of tradition and deconstructing these texts. The contemporary fashion in 1990's shows the discompositive appearances with the different form. textile print and color. By the analysis according to the deconstruct process, the characters of discompositive fashion are undecidability decentring, disorder, and dislocation. Many designers like Martin Margiella, Alexander Mcqueen, and Ann Demeulemeester express these characters on their fashion. The result of this process, the characters of discompositive design can be classified matamorphosis, harmony of the disharmony and coexistence of the ambivalence.bivalence.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.22 no.2
• /
• pp.258-272
• /
• 2014

This study aims at comprehending the characteristics of fashion communications through case study about an art marketing that Prada develops in the field of modern fashion and providing theoretical materials on creativity-based art marketing and communication spread as expression strategy for brand philosophy and personality. For its research method, theoretical study was reviewed about art marketing and Prada's fashion philosophy and then cases on Prada's art marketing were analyzed according to their types. Prada's types in their art marketing are classified into several groups: support of art foundation and artists, differentiation via flagship store, application of image fashion, exhibition project, and cooperative work with different realms. From the above marketing strategies, we can find the values in that the brand image imbedded in enterprises with culture and art was contributable to set up the brand identity, that they were much beneficial to continuous activation for fashion culture and art fields, and that fashion communications of artistic emotion based on challenge and innovation were proposed. This fashion communication in Prada via way of art marketing is not just expression of Prada's luxury fashion brand but willingness to make their unique style from different facades. This also suggests the orientation that modern fashion should look forward to in finding a new way through cooperative relationship with other fields.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.6
• /
• pp.585-593
• /
• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.38
• /
• pp.369-392
• /
• 1998

In order to identify and describe the central core of fashion desire, the concept of“anti-aesthetics”and“open fashion”were analyzed based on the discourses of postmodernism dis-cussed in the field of sociology, culture, art and philosophy. In this paper, first, the new perspectives of fashion related to modernism and postmodernism were proposed, open concept, anti-aesthet-ics which is ephemerality but eternal ideology. Key principles of postmodernism as anti-aess-thetics mean the philosophy of nihilism proposed by Nietzsche indeterminency, the endd of original art(the death of art), the sublimity provided by Lyotard, and the pluralism to release human from the closed way of thinking, value, ideology. Second, the old and classical definition of fashion,“the differentiation of class”proposed by Veblen and Simmel has been changed into the“differentiation of taste”in postmodern condition. Third, the dichotomous system, that is, ration vs emotion, soul vs body, male vs female, culture vs nature, and so on has been deconstructed and disolved in the postmodern fashion phenomenon using the technique of anti-formalism, such as pastich, parody, bricolage an kitsch for the expression of sublimity and freedom of human.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.4 no.4
• /
• pp.317-326
• /
• 2002

This study is to analyze the works introduced in the collections of Paco Rabanne in an aim to identify formative aesthetic and design concepts. As the data to study the creative concepts and expressions of the designer, fashion photographs were gathered in a focus on collections. Paco Rabanne's fashion philosophy is to shine women who has passion, energy and self-confidence, with glittering materials. For he had a career of fashion accessary designer and architect, he tried to make his work constructively with non-sewing technology. So, his works could be divided three parts of materials which he has made creative fashion with. They are metallic, non-metallic and fabric. In metallic, design concepts are cosmos, egypt, the middle ages, modern technology. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by the futurism, cubism and eroticism. In non-metallic, building, purism of primitiveness, nature. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by surrealism, primitivism, romantism. In fabric, design concepts are natural phenomena, optical illusion. And from these the formative aesthetic were mainly characterized by cubism, optical art.