• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.291-306
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• 1992

From the mid-1980s '91s, remarkable Ethnicism and Primitivism in the Europe fashion trend could be represented as an exotic taste longing for secenery and emotion of non-europe area in the West. These phenomenon could be found out in connection with Acculturation, which means when two different cultures or more were contacted they were identified or merged in process of diffusion and change of them. This point of view was the culture anthropologic one that make a comparison and analysis of sameness and difference between cultures. The purpose of this study was to illuminate exotic taste represented in costume in the cluture-anthroplogic aspect, to compare with beauty of costume that each culture of costume and the meaning of the times due to those differences. an aspect of the exotic taste and character in the western costume that was inspected by dividing into 'Primitivism', 'Oriental element' and 'the element of a national costume in the East European bloc ' were as follows; First, Primitivism had something in common with what was pursued in the trend of Modern Art, through the late 19th century to the early 20th century. In fashion fettered by technique, the creation expressed in a free was and showed simple beauty of costume. At the same time, pure emotion expression, creative power and witty strong expression give the cognition of transcendency breaking the routine and the cognition of complexity of an included conception. Those are garments showing not only the primitive thought and mysticism but a fancy, an abstraction, and a life. Colors and accessaries which described nature and matched simple costume composition to the expression of various material or patterns transmitted the image of the primitive strongly. Second, "Drental element" which had an effect on western custome historically in a long time had outstanding luxurios adornmental beauty of custome. Extending from the Arab stated India, China, Korea, Japan, each national costume with a gay national culture became one of motif. Various ornamental factors expressed on Trapez Line, Sime Line and Drape, or Raied style, which did not restrict the body. Those were not only functional Easy Look, but were also satisfying human's ornamental desire. Third, national factors in the East European bloc are theme that begins to be embossed in the late 80's. In view of a political change and cultural situation with a double character of Europe and Orient, it was estimated that national factors have great importance in fashion. Item concerned with new concern appeared at Autumn & Winter collection. It shows elegant and graceful beauty of costume by adding a fur or jewel to simple form. These national factors in the East European bloc are simple form, but shows the difference in more cubic formation than form expressed in Primitivism or Oriental factors Exotic taste appeared form 80's to 91's, is thought to create an forgotten romantic emotion and traditional fashion

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.8
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• pp.110-124
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• 2015

This study examined a phenomenon of exaggerated hairstyle in the history of Western custom through publications related with Western costume and research papers. By adopting the criteria of Delong, M. R. to analyze visual forms shown by interaction between human body and costume worn over the body, it analyzed the formative characteristics by the interaction between hairstyle and costume. In addition, it inferred the aesthetic characteristics through content analysis of examined phenomenon focusing on socio-cultural background and costume socio-psychological precedent studies. Formative characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle applied by analysis criteria of Delong, M. R. were in pursuit of the emphasis style. This was clearly and intensively recognized by forming spaces for mostly closure style, part style, three dimensional style, determinate style, and space separation style. Regarding the interaction between hair and ornamentations, 'precedence of ornamentation' was pursued as ornamentations were recognized earlier than the hair itself. It means associative meanings of the surface effect were accompanied by emotions of 'intensiveness' and the pursuit of the attractive style. As for the interaction between hairstyle and costume, there were many cases of pursuing 'continuity' mutually and visually by connecting the hairstyle and the costume. Aesthetic characteristics of exaggerated hairstyle were inferred as 1) the expression of the sprite of the age(i.e. art, culture, politics, society, ideology, religion), 2) symbols of wealth, class, authority, and excellence, 3) pursuit of addicted desire to ornament, and 4) harmony through continuity with costume. This study verified that hairstyle was connected as a part of costume, or formed as a way to express deeper human psychology beyond just a part of a costume. It was also confirmed that hairstyle was an expressive method to express the spirit of the age, such as art, culture, society, religion, ideology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.6 s.105
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• pp.114-131
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• 2006

An Asian Ethnic Look is based on its own values of traditional costumes and the fashion accessories that are influenced by its own genre within their own culture. In this thesis, it contemplates the study of visual values and the traditional influences of the Modern Western Designers and Asian Designers' definitions and the considerations of an Ethnic look in the countries like Middle East, India, Korea, China and Japan. The standard procedure to understand their Visual and Aesthetic values is acknowledgement of body. From that foundation, an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values were researched through out the Middle East Asian Look, Indian Look, Korean Look, Chinese Look and Japanese Look which effective after 1990's. The studies are further researched to the comparisons and interpretations of the Western Designers and the Asian Designers, and the definitions of an Asian Ethnic Look and its Visual and Aesthetic Values in between those. According to each country's religious attitudes, a beauty of concealment and a beauty of negative space appeal which emphasize an ethics on humanity and non-materialistic attitudes. It takes meanings of a phenomenon of nature's worship, Yin-Yang five elements of principles, oneness of body-mind and oneness of universe-mankind. Following the studies of Visual and Aesthetic Values of an Asian Ethnic Look, in 1990's Western Designers' interpretations were prominent use of the Asian Traditional Motif3. However, the interpretations of the Asian Designers were based on their own traditional ethics and they minimized decorative elements but enhanced naturalism, feminism, calm and sober designs compare to the past. The Asian Designers' interpretations of their visual values were based on their Asian mentality, beauty and its straightforward genuine perspective and respects of their own culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.1-11
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• 2004

As Confucian ideology dominated all over the society, the androcentric patriarchical society in the last of Chosun Dynasty produced the unequal power relationship between man and woman. It was traditional hostesses(kisaengs) who uniquely had an occupation among the women in this society. In modern society. they are reinterpreted as 'fashion leaders' or 'professional career women with expert knowledge and it caused a lot of the studies of them to be in a progression vigorously. Therefore this paper studied on the influence of the traditional hostesses(kisaengs) -who were educated and permitted in ther social activity formally in a Confuanism-governed society which forbided a woman to participate in a social activity and which did not gave ladies any formal education. The general hostess in the beginning time of the Chosun Dynasty imitated the hair shape of women in the yangban family which formed the highest class in the Chosun Dyansty and it reflected their aspiration for the highest social class. Howerver, coming into the last age of the chosun dynasty, a reverse phenomenon -that women in the yangban family imitated the general hostesses' hairstyle -occured due to the spread of a genre painting ＆ the concubine system. The general hostesses were educated systematically and did social activity and influenced hair shapes as they were independent economically and their influence in the part of hairstyle appeared as great and high EONJIN MEURI and as one-sided EONJIN MEURI. Regarding-as the result of this study on the influence of the traditional hostess's hair shapes on the ladies hair shapes in the last of Chosun Dynasty -that the traditional hostesse of the last age of chosun dynasty played a role as a fashion leader of the ladies at the same age. the general hostesses in Chosun Dynasty should be revaluated... And the study of ladies which were hidden behind the scenes of Confuanism should be made much more.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.4 no.4 s.10
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• pp.63-74
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• 2006

The purpose of the study was to investigate unique field of formative characteristics using copper wire, the present thesis aims at developing concept of hair art as a creative way, and recognizing the formative characteristics of copper wire as analyze and arrange the concept of hair art, formative, a way of practical application, material aspect, through literature, academic journals, photo data, and researched about prior piece, for example, architecture and costume with hair art, and then pieces of hair art were made. Influenced by the theory, applied the social phenomenon and the formative principles, produced the seven pieces which includes flying, composure, yahoo, harmony, balance, way, spring etc. The results of this research are outlined below. Firstly, It showed that the copper wire can express the mysterious and beautiful formative world, and it could know the possibility of design. Secondly, formative activity using copper wire can differ according to approach and interpretation, and it can be a works with aesthetic value. Thirdly, hair could be express the art of the three-dimensional forms which constitute the mixture of line, surface and space. Fourthly, the handicraft including beading, pleat, piping, rolling that used for works are proper to express the unique formative and the rich colors, and it can also express the transparency. So it showed that copper wire is a proper materials. So, hair art has enlarged the fields with development of technique, and changed to recognition of the hair art, and opened up a new field. Hair art will be positive fields to maximize the possibility, and not only the beauty artist but also the public will be communicate each other.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.38-47
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• 2007

In the modern society that is advancing rapidly, the hair art is also advancing and subdividing. The purpose of this study is to investigate unique field of formative as characteristics and forms of copper wire, focused on such a harmony of hair art, the present thesis aims at developing concept of hair art as a creative way, and recognizing the formative characteristics of copper wire as analyze and arrange the concept of hair art, formative, a way of practical application, material aspect, through literature, academic journals, photo data, and researched about prior piece, for example, architecture and costume with hair art, and then pieces of hair art were made. Influenced by the theory, applied the social phenomenon and the formative principles, produced the five pieces which includes balance, composure, flying, harmony, way, spring etc. The results of this research are outlined below. Firstly, It showed that the copper wire can express the mysterious and beautiful formative world, and it could know the possibility of design. Secondly, formative activity using copper wire can differ according to approach and interpretation, and it can be a works with aesthetic value. Thirdly, hair could be express the art of the three-dimensional forms which constitute the mixture of line, surface and space. So, hair art has enlarged the fields with development of technique, and changed to recognition of the hair art, and opened up a new field. Hair art will be positive fields to maximize the possibility, and not only the beauty artist but also the public will be communicate each other.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.468-475
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• 2015

This study has examined the 20's and the 30's Korean who have a desire, 'to be getting younger' and how to relate what appearance management-behavior they follow. The methodology of this study used both theoretical and quantitative research for an empirical study. First, a theoretical study researched a big stream of the 20's and the 30's Koreans' to be getting younger' on articles based on the social and cultural background of the past 30 years that defined various concepts of age through previous research. Data was also collected via SMS for five months (August to December 2014) and 96 Korean participants in their 20's and the 30's who have lived in and around Seoul. The results of the survey analysis showed that the desire of 'to be getting younger' irrelevant to the age among Korean young people. In addition, this tendency to be the ideal age as being younger is realized by appearance management sort of skin care or clothing styling among 20's and the 30's Korean. This study suggested a phenomenon, 'to be getting younger' in Korean society would lead to an alternative sort of age that targets individual taste rather than the chronological age in the apparel market.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.799-807
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• 2009

When analyzing make-up trends of figures shown in portraits of different eras in Chinese painting history, you can see that red color was used much. This can be because the red color is the most outstanding among all the colors and was most preferred by ancient people, as the color of the sun, the blood, and the sacredness. The women in the Tang Dynasty was especially using the red color much. Though Seongrihak (Neo-Confucianism) in Song Dynasty was the governing ideology, it had an influence even upon its aesthetics. Thus, during Song Dynasty, the beauty of logos appeared too. This phenomenon showed a conservative tendency even in make-up as well as in costume, thereby the concept of clear and elegant beauty was emphasized. The real figure in the Ming and Ching Dynasty, was so young and weak as a sample of a delicate woman that a woman who had feminine beauty was regarded as an ideal type. The feminine image had been gradually generalized from the literary works in the latter half of Ming Dynasty. However, the painters in the era still preferred the beauty of a healthy woman. That tendency probably had an influence even upon make-up culture that was shown in portrait. As an analysis result of make-up culture in Chinese portrait paintings, it reveals that ancient make-up trends much reflected the social and cultural phenomena of the periods.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.107-123
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• 2008

The purpose of this research is to compare and analyze the brassiere patterns sold in Shanghai and Korea and to present basic materials needed in developing the brassiere patterns in Chinese adult women market. The study subject which is to find the difference in brassiere patterns of Korea and China has been selected of 3 Korean brands and 4 Chinese brands. 1. For the brassiere patterns sold in Korea, it were using the same size for the width of Hook&Eye, space between the shoulder lace on the back, slope of wing and the location of the Keeper was similar. 2. For the cup supporting base, Chinese brassiere covers the lower part of the breast and as it is not comfortable and has a phenomenon of loosening up, there were severe puckering. For issues in the wearing experiment, amendments in patterns with the cup part was required. 3. Chinese brassieres were big differences in wing angles and for Aimer, it had the steepest trend in wings and thus the wings headed down and for Gujin, as the angle of the wing was smaller than $90^{\circ}$, it was heading upward. 4. Upon comparing the patterns of the Korean and Chinese brassiere, although most of the sizes excluding the wing angle had similar sizes, there was big differences in the wing angle. The reason why the brassiere patterns sold in China had bigger wing angle was due to the fact that more Chinese women had sway back body type than the Korean women and should reflect such difference in body size into making the brassiere patterns for each women.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.1-14
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• 2015

This study mainly analyzes that designing patterns of an adult women Jeogori that takes advantage of patterns from each textbooks and complements the disadvantages based on the analysis of data from the dress evaluation and comparison of materials. The modification of a size specification is needed for the standard body as an adjust of the length of Jogori between front and back, mediation for bust width between front and back, a movement for the based line of Sup and Godae. As a result, the suitable pattern according to the standard somatotype is as below. Jeogori Length of front is determined by the length of back which was measured from side neck point to bust point plus three centimeters, and give three and half centimeters more in front. This three and half centimeters is for the curved in front of your body due to the chest. Bust width of front and back have to show the differences of human body. Bust width of front is calculated as bust girth into quarters and add two centimeters. Bust width of back gives one centimeter behind the curve from the center line in order to reduce the floating phenomenon. So, the amount of center back line dart is one centimeter. Arm hole girth measures as dividing bust girth into four. Also, Goedae width has two methods to measure. First, divide bust girth into ten equal parts and subtract 0.5 centimeters from it. Second, measure neck girth and divide it by four. Sleeve length is equal to Hwajang minus bust width of front. Hand wrist calculates in using bust girth. Make bust girth into quarters and multiply three fifths. Side line measures as deducting from Jeogori length of back to Arm hole girth and multiply two thirds.