• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권3호
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• pp.306-319
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• 2013

This study explores various issues of appearance management behavior for plus-size women in Korea with a focus on clothing. In-depth interviews and focused group interviews were conducted with 24 plus-size women. The interviews were recorded and the transcripts were analyzed based on grounded theory. Discomfort was the main phenomenon involving the experience of plus-size women related to appearance management. Psychological as well as physiological/physical discomfort, unmet needs (regarding clothing) and inconvenient shopping experiences were frequently mentioned. Causal conditions for discomfort were obesity, social stigma, and an underdeveloped clothing market for plus-size consumers. Interviewees developed strategies to cope with discomfort (suppressing clothing need, loss of interest in clothing, diversion from clothing needs, sole focus on physical comfort, dress-up and increase in shopping channels, and change in shopping patterns) that depended on contextual conditions (such as duration of obesity and attitudes of people) close to the interviewees. The discomfort of interviewees decreased or continued depending on if they became ambivalent about their obese condition, lost weight, or utilized plus-size specialty stores.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.153-167
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• 2006

The hip-hop, which began with subculture of black people in Harlem, have changed variously in musical history after the times, which has become the culture phenomenon that had controlled dancing, fashion, and further consciousness of the new generation around the world in 1990s. Since Jean Patou first used Graffiti on clothing in 1920s, graffiti art has been expressed through various methods in many designers' works. The purpose of this study is to develop 'The Hip-Hop' clothing design which express major images in works of Jean-Michel Basquiat, a representative painter of Graffiti art in modern fashion. The concept is Jean Casual Look representing Young Street Culture. Breaking from existing strong legitimate hip-hop styles, clothing design expresses funny, healthy, comfortable, and active feelings. Adobe Illustrator and Adobe Photoshop program were used to design Hip-Hop clothing. With the result that the images on Basquiat's works applied to the hip-hop clothing design, it is suggested that the works of artists are worthy of practical use as factors of a high value-added design, which corresponds with collaboration appearing in modern design variously.

• 예술인문사회 융합 멀티미디어 논문지
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• 제7권10호
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• pp.703-711
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• 2017

Today, men's appearance is an important part of the global fashion industry, including Korea, with such fashion concepts as the Metrosexual and Ubersexual. Domestic and overseas beauty and cosmetics related organizations are using this phenomenon for marketing and researching to improve the function of cosmetics. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of Prunus persica L. Batsch leaf extract on the skin condition after clinical application to male subjects with oily skin to determine the possibility of functional cosmetics utilizing this extract. The cleansing bars were prepared by the MP method and the cleansing packs were prepared using natural ingredients. After 8 weeks of application, moisture, oil, erythema, melanin, pH, elasticity and tactile sensation were measured using MPA5. The results showed that there was a statistically significant difference in T-zone moisture and T-zone oil after using the natural cleansing bar, but there was no significant difference between the two groups for other items. However, the statistically significant changes were found in the individual skin condition change items of the subjects in each group, and it was judged that the two kinds of formulations could be used at the same time to have a higher skin improvement effect. Thus, Prunus persica L. Batsch leaf extract demonstrates potential to be used as a functional cosmetics item.

• 한국패션뷰티학회지
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.11-18
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to review the origin and background of well-being, the emerging well-being culture, and the phenomenon and features of the hair beauty affected by it. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed dissertations written between 199a and 2002, copies of the beauty journal Short Hair published between 2002 and 2003, beauty newspapers published between March, 2003 and June, 2004, and relevant Internet sites. When we review the well-being hair style tendency, we may be reminded of a light shaggy cut style with a thick wave volume or a natural wave highlighted, or a natural style with a natural color rendered by the braid technique. The well-being hair styles may be inspired by such natural images as the earth, sand, rock, wind, feather and flowers, while using cut, permanent wave or coloring technique for the hairs, in order to create new hair styles. The goal is to make men in contact with the nature. Meanwhile, as people are more concerned about diverse hair textures, natural and healthy hairs, they want their hairs to look comfortable and active rather than luxurious. The well-being cut styles may be categorized into cut style highlighting healthy hairs with a Bobos luxury and soft and light stroke cut reminiscent of a Bohemian freedom. The well-being permanent style may be divided into thick wave, natural wave, and the permanent style using a strong wave to make hairs look bloated. The hair colors reminding us of some natural images are used to highlight a well-being image. In addition, the concept of well-being pursuing a happy and healthy life has been being introduced into the permanent wave material liquids; such liquids made from natural materials, fruits or herbs increase, while environmental-friendly liquids or materials are used more for healthy hairs. The reason why the well-being culture influences hair styles importantly may be that people's desire of healthy body and mind and a comfortable life is reflected in hair styles. In conclusion, as the hair styles or an index for a new cultural current in our modern age are influenced by the well-being phenomenon, more and more people will put priority on healthy hairs. So, it is deemed necessary to apply the well-being hair styles appropriately to render satisfactory hair styles.

• 복식
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• 제64권7호
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• pp.172-183
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• 2014

The term "new woman" (신여성 [Sinyeoseong], 新女性) refers to an idealized image of contemporary women during the so-called modern period in East Asia. In Korea, these "modern girls" were also referred to as modan (毛斷), or "cut-hair", reflecting changes in appearances that rejected the traditional value system in favor of "the new" in everyday life. Although it was used to refer to the perceived educated leaders of this new period, it also had the negative connotation of referring to frivolous women only interested in the latest fashion. The popular discourse on this "new woman" was constantly changing during this early modern period in East Asia, ranging from male-driven women's movements to women-driven liberal and socialist movements. The discourse often included ideals of what constituted female impeccability in women's domestic roles and enlightened views on housekeeping, yet in most cases the "new woman" was also expected to be a good wife and mother as well as a successful career woman. The concept of the "new woman" was also accompanied by an upheaval in women's social roles and their physical boundaries, and resulted in women repositioning themselves in the new society. The new look was a way of constructing their bodies to fit their new roles, and this again was rapidly reproduced in visual media. Newspapers, magazines, and plays had gained immense popularity by this time and provided visual material for the age with covers, advertisements, and illustrations. This research will explore the fashion of the "new woman" through archival resources, specifically magazines published in the 1920s and 1930s. It will investigate how women's appearances and the images they pursued reflected the ideal image of the "new woman." Fashion information providers, trendsetters, and levels of popular acceptance will also be examined in the context of the early stage of the fashion industry in East Asia, including production and distribution. Additionally, as the idea of the "new woman" was a worldwide phenomenon throughout the 19th and early 20th century, the effect of Japanese colonialism on the structure of Korean culture and its role as a cultural mediator will also be considered in how the ideal image of beauty was sought, and whether this was a western, colonial, or national preference.

• 복식
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• 제20권
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• pp.151-167
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to systematize the theory of the Fashion Marketing and merchandi-sing system as well as the strategy for the Mar-keting based on the related variable. Furthermore, this study deals with development of the mark-eting strategy to the relation between consumers and industry. The content conclusion on the research can be outlined as follows : 1. In order to inverstigate how the life-style of consumers affects their sense of fashion, awa-reness of brand, and decision making process of purchase, the life-style of women consumers is classified into 15 types. (1) Acording to the different life-style types, and important difference is found in the consum-ers' sense of clothes, a unique image of outfit and its own favorite image of womanliness. (2) The consumer's awareness of a particular brand has a reasonable relationship with their brand preference and possession of the brands. (3) Their is an important discrimination acco-rding to the life-style types in their brand awar-eness and preference and possesion of brands. (4) The consumers of each life-style type show noticeable difference in the decision making pro-cess of purchase including he motive of purchase, the source of information, the cause of purchase intention, price, the frequency of purchase and the degree of satisfaction of purchased goods. 2. The merchandising system and the market positioning among the fashion industry are compared and analyzed in the following terms ; (1-1) For the purpose of establishing the target market strategy, the industry uses unreasenalbe methods to analyze the life-style of the target customers and the real customers(36%) and the aging phenomenon of brands is remarkable : as much as 37% of brands show over 5 years-old age gap. (1-2) The price setting process depends highly on the cost-plus approach. (1-3) In color planning, too many colors are used in every season(the average number is 22.3) and the investigation of the consumers' favorite color is neglected. (1-4) The manufacturers of successful brands are much likely to employ the textile designer and allow them to develop the various fabrication. (1-5) The regular rate of sales in each season is extremely low(56.04%) : the rate of the succ-essful brands is relatively high at 65%, but that of the unsuccessful as low as 51%. (1-6) 47% of brands reveal the designer-orie-nted fashion merchandising system. The successful brands, on the other hand, show a high rate of merchandiser oriented system. (2) Since the brand positioning is highly cen-tered on each brand image, styles and target age, the new data are presented in this study for the new market development. (3) To set up the target market, the mapping of images between the differentiated market and the consumers is suggersted according to the market positioning of industry and 15 types of the life-styles of consumers.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.387-393
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• 2005

This study compares shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia. It also investigates the meaning of shamanism and shamans,the relationship of Korean shamanism to shamanism, and the genealogy of Korean shamanism. For collecting and analyzing data of the research, literature reviews, field studies, and the investigation of historical relics are mostly used. The following are the major findings of the research: Through the comparison of shamans' costumes of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, this research finds out some similarities and differences in the costumes. Both Korean shamans and Siberian and Central Asian shamans wore shaman's costumes and used utensils like bells or mirrors when they perform a religious service. On their costumes, they both used an element which stands for birds. However, they were different in terms of the materials or styles of the costumes, of the function of the costumes, and of the decorating with ornaments. The differences in the materials or styles of the costumes, different functions of the costumes, and using ornaments or not can be viewed as a general phenomenon, which is resulted from different environments. The soul's departing the body or the possession or a mixed method can be considered as mere variations due to regional or cultural differences. In conclusion, based on the comparison of the costumes of shamans of Korea with those of Siberia and Central Asia, the shamans of Korea and Siberia and Central Asia share the same origin. And the genealogy of Korean shamans can be said to be originated from the northern shamanism.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.83-92
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• 2018

This paper investigated garment formability and fabric mechanical properties of one-way and two-way stretch fabrics according to the thermal treatment methods. One-way and two-way stretch fabrics were woven using 75d and 150d PET/spandex covering yarns and then these were wet thermal treated with four kinds of finishing machines. The fabric mechanical properties of these stretch fabrics specimens were measured and compared with the regular PET fabrics. The stretch ratio of one-way stretch fabric was ranged 12 to 26 percentage, 15 to 45 percentage for 2-way stretch fabrics and 4 to 10 percentage for regular fabrics. Garment formability of stretch fabric was superior than that of regular fabrics, in addition, 2-way stretch fabric was better than one-way. The garment formability of the stretch fabrics treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines showed the highest values, and the stretch ratio of these 2-way stretch fabrics was also the highest, which was ranged 20 to 45 percentage. This phenomenon was assumed to be due to high extensibility and bending rigidity with low shear modulus of the 2-way stretch fabric treated with CPB and Lava wet thermal machines. It was shown that the garment formability of stretch fabrics treated without dry thermal treatment was higher than that of dry thermal treated fabrics. It revealed that high stretch fabric was available under the condition of low process tension in the wet and dry thermal treatments of the finishing process, which makes high garment formability.

• 복식
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• 제37권
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• pp.133-148
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• 1998

This study presents the aspects and changing process of the habiliment from the National Liberation up to now by analyzing the articles of costume found in$\ulcorner$Maeil Shinmun$\lrcorner$from Jan. 1. 1946 to Dec. 31. 1996. In the period of 1946~1959, the political and economic conditions through the National Liberation and Korean war deteriorated and the interest in costumes were weakened. But the economic recovery and social stability in the middle of the 50's made the lost interest in costumes increase. From 1960 to 1969, the high economic growth was achieved by“Five year plans for Economic Development”and the progress of mass media, transportation, communication and education brought western culture to our society. It spread rapidly and changed the way of life and the sence of value. These phenomenon led to a great transition on the Korean costume culture in the 60's In 1970~1979, the articless of costume made a change from the 60's, which focused on women's wear, and tuned to one including general costumes not only women's wear but also men's wear due to the women's social roles, the unisexmode and diverse costume. In 1980~1989, the growth of the consumption, the banning of the school uniform, Asian Games(1986) and Olympic games(1988) caused the high qualification, personalization and diversification in the fashion industry. Further more, the traditional-oriented trend with korean culture was emphasized. It pursued the modernization of the traditional Korean Costume, Hanbok, to introduce the unique Korean Beauty. From 1990 to 1996, in the era of international-ization and open door policy, the competition of nations became intense and the comprehention about environmental destruction highlingted the concerns on ecology. The recognition of environmental protection and recycling were reflected in the fashion. It prevailed that the pursuit of personalization,. diverse style, practicality and the fashion leader called generation appeared.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.181-196
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• 2002

The functions of the clothing have been changed rapidly in modern society. That means people want to show oneself strongly by the clothing. In other words, the social aspect of the clothing's function which is the expression of own's personality and satisfaction one's desire is emphasized. This study is aimed at taking a look at the functions of modern clothing. The modern clothing has the various functions which are related to the changing of the social system. The result of the study are as follows: With the differentiation of society and institutionalization, the clothing is recognized as the medium which shows one's status and is restricted by people. In modern society as mass society, the system of the social position collapsed. People has the inclination to express own's consciousness, personality and existence intensely. Also, the functions of clothing became diverse. That means the clothing is influenced by the human's consciousness, a sense of values and became the medium which reflects the people's life. This change of the costume means the clothing focus on the functional factor of the free-style clothing getting out of rational value. Therefore, the change of clothing is not the change of the design but the change of value of the clothing, one's way of thinking about the clothing, the change of human life in whole society and the culture. With the changing way of life, the change of the clothing has the system in which the design changes. Therefore, I found that the we have to take a look not the change of the factors which influence the fashion but the functions of the clothing itself.