• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.4
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• pp.118-131
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to take a look at the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties to sort the actual fashion image and the ideal fashion image according to the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties, and also to find out the standards and features that divide such a classification. For this study, we used the Q method, which is valued as an effective way to assess subjectivity. This helps to objectively classify the perception the fashion images of and the response to them as well. The analyzed materials were divided into two actual fashion frames and two ideal fashion frames, and classified them into 12 fashion image types in total, that is, six actual fashion images and six ideal fashion images, and we named each type of the fashion images and analyzed the features of each fashion image type through the in-depth Q workshop in which 14 professionals participated. The results of this study are as follows: First, the actual fashion frames of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was largely divided into 'Fashion Gold Girl', the fashion frame of mainstream and 'Indi-idol', the fashion frame of subcultures, and this was further divided into six fashion image types: 'Basic Casual', 'Vintage Performer', 'Easy Chic', 'Ladies' Look', 'City Office Girl' and 'Club Mania'. Second, the ideal fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was divided into 'Urban Refinement', the fashion frame of the mainstream and 'Mismatched Style', the fashion frame of subcultures. It was also divided into six fashion image types: Power Fashion', 'Fashion Conservative', 'Semi-culture', 'Fashion Otaku', 'Sweet Darling' and 'Fashion Panic'. Third, The characteristics of the fashion images' colors are recognizable according to the type of fashion images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.491-505
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• 2013

This study applies framing theory to the presentation of trend or styling information in fashion journalism. A qualitative content analysis was conducted with three lifestyle magazines. The findings include attribute, attitude, and source-based frames. The attribute-based frame was used to increase the versatility and feasibility of design by emphasizing particular attributes of clothes. To increase versatility, an item could be presented either as a basic or trendy design. To increase feasibility, fashion information could be customized by price points (i.e., affordable frame) or body type (i.e., flattering frame). The attitude-based frame includes prescriptive and rule-breaking frames. The source-based frame offers a source of trend or styling information. Expert, celebrity, and consumer frame emerged under the source-based frame. Findings reveal how fashion and style information is defined and crafted.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.121-135
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• 2001

Foreign tourists prefer a T-shirts as a souvenir and it can be used practically. The objective of this study is to development T-shirts design using traditional window frame pattern for tourism souvenir. T-shirts design applied traditional window-frame pattern, which is a geometrical figure among traditional shapes. The results are as follows. 1. Window-frame pattern were general shape and complicated shape. 2. Window-frame pattern is visually ordered and stabled because has perfect ratio. 3. Geometrical line of window-frame applied on a T-shirt and match with modern sense.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.82-96
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• 2014

This study views the shadows cast by the light and a subject provides new interpretations rather than it simply being an additive product. Particularly in fashion photograph, light and shadows are often used as tools to convey meaning. Accordingly, this study aims to classify the utilization of the shadow created by light and deriving its expressive characteristics in fashion photograph. To achieve these research aims, literature and case studies were conducted. The results are as follows. First, the shadows were mainly focused on a subject. Secondly, shadows caused by lighting is casted directly into the inside of the main subject in a frame takes a role of omission or emphasis. Third, shadows caused by a second unseen object outside the frame are utilized with the main subject in the frame. Based on these results above, spatial third dimensionality, optical illusion and accentuation were derived as expressive characteristics of the shadow in fashion photograph. As such, in fashion photograph, shadow is an important element for photographers. The variability of the shadow makes it possible for creative changes as its amount, angle and direction can be altered by adjusting the light in accordance with the intention of the artist. Therefore, its utilization methods will be diversified hereafter. Accordingly, it is required to recognize that shadow may be recreated as an independent object in fashion photograph.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.11
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• pp.1415-1425
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to analyze a theoretical frame of expressional area, the characteristics and the effects which is applied to fashion illustration by metonymic theory. The theoretical frame of expressional area was analyzed by category analysis and 150 fashion illustrations from 1900 to 1999 were analyzed by contents analysis. The results of this study were as follows: The expressions of metonymy were categorized by close-up, realistic expression, omission, borrowing of past style, simplification and deconstruction. First, close-up was presented as emphasis of small part of fashion by cutting the scenes, snapshot, emphasis, etc. Second, realistic expression was presented as description of related circumstance with fashion message through perspective and realistic description of circumstance related to figures. Third, omission was presented as seeking of essential core by removing color, pattern, texture or by omitting body and as emphasis of communication about dominant fashion message. Fourth, borrowing of past style was presented as reminding us of background of the past. Fifth, simplification was presented as using of form or color to alleviate tension of object and to restore the essential reality. Sixth, deconstruction was presented as fragmenting of image, flattening of body and clothing, weakness of form, and strength of color. In conclusion, metonymy made by experience system of thinking based on the reality, have extended expressional territory in pre-existing fashion illustration. And these ways not only will provide fashion image as illustrator's subjective intention and theoretical system of expression of message, but also will be useful way to strengthen communication for easier interpretation of fashion illustration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.156-160
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• 2006

Poststructuralism gives us a clue to totally understand fashion design, which is in danger of difficulty and frivolous ambiguity caused by indiscreet creating and groundless interpretation of Postmodernism. In addition, it leads us to have a new viewpoint, which is freed from stereotyped past concepts and constraints, with regard to fashion design. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, present study employs a two-way research method: analysis of theories and analysis of contents. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design. In analysis of contents, 10 fashion designers are chosen who exhibit new works at every Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter collection. Including 20 works that those designers displayed at Pr$\hat{e}$t-$\acute{a}$-Porter from spring/summer 2001 through autumn/winter 2004-2005, a total of 200 works are analyzed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.788-798
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• 2009

This study aims to develop a highly reproducible, optimal frame design algorithm using variations in the curvature of armscye circumference, which will provide the basics for remodeling the 3D human body shape with the concept of reverse design used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. 1. The results of the experiment proved that ratio value was significantly efficient than absolute value of curvature variation to extract feature points in the armscye circumference 2. For the shoulder(1st and 2nd quadrant) and front armhole(3rd quadrant) parts of the armscye circumference, frame remodeling with the positive point of inflection led to the completion of a highly reproducible frame. 3. Similarly, even for the rear armhole part(4th quadrant) in the armscye circumference, it was found that frame remodeling using the positive maximum point of inflection resulted in highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection situated within the range of split angles $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$, while frame remodeling using simultaneously the two largest points of inflection including maximum point of inflection led to highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection out of the range $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$. 4. Based upon the optimal frame design algorithm developed in this study, section-specific feature points in the armscye circumference were extracted depending on the rate of curvature variation and remodeling with spline curves was conducted. The results indicate a remarkably high reproducibility(98.6%) and suggest that the algorithm developed in this study is suitable for human body modeling.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.6
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• pp.585-593
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• 2005

Diverse and complicated trends of fashion design which were initiated at the latter part of the 20th century have been evolving in the cultural framework of Postmodernism. At this point of time, Poststructuralism, with its aims to interpret and understand modern fashion design, is a new system of thinking that reveals the contradictory aspects of rationalistic Western philosophy and accepts uncertainty and disorder as they exist. The main purpose of this study is to examine the various theoretic systems and characteristic concepts of Poststructuralism, and supply a new cognizance frame to understand the processes of fashion design with free and varied notions of deconstruction and generation, in place of the former systematic and consistent interpretation of meaning. Concerning fashion design, analysis of theories and analysis of contents. By probing and examining deconstruction theory, 'I'-other theory, textual theory, and nomadic thinking, the concepts of cognizance are classified into Nonboundariness, Otherness, and Textualism. The theoretic foundation for this analysis and classification is supplied by Derrida's deconstructional philosophy, Lacan's mental analysis, Bartes's textual theory, Deleuze's change and generation theory, together with other theories of Poststructuralism. In analysis of theories, a cognizance frame is proposed that can categorize the concepts, derived from various theories of Poststructuralism, as traits expressed in fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.2
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• pp.42-58
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• 2009

This study researches previous aesthetic categories and organizes new one which is applied to fashion design. With the frame of the new aesthetic category, a survey about aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment are conducted. Also, this study discusses about the variety of the aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment which are arisen from peculiarity of fashion and the necessity of the systemized criticizing theory. Through the survey of aesthetic consciousness about fashion designer's clothes, there are possibilities of varieties in visions and critics about fashion works. But it is necessary to read in right way about kunstwollen and symbolic meaning of designer. In order to read aesthetic consciousness inside of a fashion designer's works properly, the interpretation method which follows in systematized phases such as iconology and semiology is necessary. Contemplation for the 'clothes' which is a part of an art Is not just simply see the object and judge subjectively but examine the factors which have influenced to the formation, kunstwollen, and symbolic meaning. Also, the process and the attitude which enjoy the aesthetic value have to be analyzed and criticized which based on systemized interpretation frame. The 'Clothes' is one artistic object which expresses kunstwollen of fashion designer and he or she puts in a sentiment and an ideology into the clothes and which reflects the present society and effects to the descendant.