• 한국의류학회지
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• 제47권3호
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• pp.459-474
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• 2023

Contemporary fashion criticism tends to rely solely on the established art criticism process without consideration of the distinctive characteristics of fashion. Thus, this study aims to reveal the unique roles and characteristics of fashion criticism by recognizing it as an independent field in contemporary art with its own social significance. This study will first apply traditional art criticism models to analyze and explore contemporary fashion criticism's empirical content before uncovering the uniqueness of contemporary fashion criticism by content analysis. Contemporary fashion criticism discusses not just physical objects but various topics and ideas, as well. Accordingly, the existing criticism model was modified in this study to fit contemporary fashion criticism and organized into five stages: description of historical fashion, form description, external evaluation, interpretation, and internal evaluation. Commerciality, the human body, coordination, the critic's individuality, trends, and fashion-related persons were identified as key factors of contemporary fashion criticism's uniqueness. In conclusion, rather than build a single contemporary fashion model, this study found it more effective to create individual fashion criticism models suitable for detailed fields, as these enable the discussion of multifaceted topics in the fashion field. This study is expected to serve a meaningful guide for the fashion discourses.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권3호
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• pp.437-455
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• 2016

This paper proposes a multi-disciplinary approach for fashion criticism in museology through an analysis of the 2014 Charles James's retrospective. It includes the following elicitations. First, it explores a critical discussion of "dress museology" as well as "fashion museology" and the complexity of fashion in museums. Second, this paper reorganizes Fleming's (1974) artifact study and Crane and Bovone's (2006) critical theory for fashion criticism in museology by comparing "object-based" research with an "academic" approach. Third, it applies fashion criticism methodology as a case study to the aforementioned museum fashion exhibit, entitled . We can subsequently begin to reconsider concepts of art and fashion within present culture based on inclusive fashion criticism of aesthetic and cultural events.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.66-78
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to illuminate the location of fashion in contemporary society and to suggest a direction for fashion criticism in aesthetic$\hat{u}$cultural perspective. For this, literature researches about some of art criticism and fashion criticism theories and cultural studies related to fashion are performed. In this study, fashion criticism is defined as a linguistic analysis and interpretation about a variety of discursive networks around fashion as well as an aesthetic analysis of it. Considering this definition, an analytical framework for the contemporary fashion criticism combines Feldman's and Carney's models with Crane & Bovone's and Entwistle's sociological studies for aesthetic and cultural perspectives. At first, its aesthetic perspective shows 'Description'-'Descriptive formative features', 'Analysis'-'Locate the style' and 'Aesthetic value', 'Interpretation'- 'Interpretation of the fashion object' and 'Socio-cultural interpretation', 'Judgment'-'Critical judgment'. Then, its cultural perspective especially emphasizes 'Socio-cultural interpretation' of the 6 steps above. Socio-cultural interpretation gets tangled with the network of various cultural agents within the fashion system, producers/designers, retailers/suppliers, media/editors, consumers/spectators, and so on. In the course of the fashion system 5 analytical methods about the fashion object can be suggested and they are as follows: Analyses of texts, discourses and symbols of a fashion object, Analyses of fashion systems which produces symbolic values, Analyses of the communication of symbolic values and the disseminating processes through the media, Analyses of the attribution of symbolic values to a fashion object by consumers, and Cross-national studies of symbolic values expressed in a fashion object.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제44권2호
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• pp.273-294
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• 2020

Considering the complex relationship between fashion curating and the critical approach of fashion exhibition reviews, this study explores the current state of fashion criticism in museology, focusing on fashion designer exhibition reviews of Fashion Theory. The author selected eighteen exhibition reviews of individual fashion designers' works from 1997 on to the current 2020 issues of Fashion Theory, which provides an interdisciplinary forum to analyze fashion as a cultural construction. The author performed a systematic review that qualitatively summarizes and/or synthesizes the findings of the studies on the topic with the process of a systematic review, such as key question formulation, analytic framework building, evidence mapping, critical appraisal, and evidence synthesis. The results of this study are as follows. First, the exhibition reviews included almost all stages of the inclusive fashion criticism model, based on an artifact study. Second, they reflected various critical discourses that offered current interpretations of historical and contemporary fashion. Third, they showed that fashion criticism in the museum context is the result of an interdisciplinary collaboration of various fashion agents. Finally, they offered a bridge for crossing the boundaries of various scholarly fields, as they combine multidisciplinary scholarship with object-based methods.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제32권2호
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• pp.215-231
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• 2024

The changing media landscape has diversified how and what is discussed about fashion. This study aims to examine expert discussions about fashion shows on social media from the perspective of fashion criticism. To achieve this goal objectively, a text mining program, Leximancer, was used. In total, 58 videos were collected from the panel discussion section of Showstudio from S/S 21 to S/S 24, and the results of text mining on 24,080 collected texts after refinement are detailed here. First, the researchers examined the frequency of keywords by season. This revealed that in 2021-2022, digital transformation, diversity, and fashion films are now commonly used to promote fashion collections, often replacing traditional catwalk shows. From 2023, sustainability and virtuality appeared more frequently, and fashion brands focused on storytelling to communicate seasonal concepts. In S/S 2024, the rise of luxury brand keywords and an increased focus on consumption has been evident. This suggests that it is influenced by social and cultural phenomena. Second, the overall keywords were analyzed and categorized into five concepts: formal descriptions and explanations of the collection's outfits, sociocultural evaluations of fashion shows and designers, assessments of the commerciality and sustainability of the current fashion industry, interpretations of fashion presentations, and discussions of the role of fashion shows in the future. The significance of this study lies in its identification of the specificity of contemporary fashion criticism and its objective approach to critical research.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권11호
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• pp.35-42
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• 2006

A criticism model for dress was developed to offer a methodological insight into research on aesthetics of dress. Concepts from Edmund B. Feldman's art criticism model, James D. Carney's style-relative model of art criticism, and Sung Bok Kim's fashion criticism model were borrowed and integrated to create a criticism model for dress, comprising identification of styles, descriptive features, aesthetic value features, external interpretation, socio-cultural interpretation, and evaluation. Both inductive and deductive approaches for the identification of styles can be made in the process of dress criticism. In the former case, descriptive features and aesthetic features are sequentially identified to locate the styles of dress. In the latter case, styles are identified first, and descriptive features and aesthetic features are identified accordingly. Logical criticisms can be made based on the critics' background knowledge of the history of dress and art.

• 한국의상디자인학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국의상디자인학회 2005년도 Fasion road:Korea to belarus
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• pp.29-30
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• 2005

• 복식
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• 제50권6호
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• pp.73-87
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to analyze the influence of fashion magazine on the street fashion, focused on Japan. The data were collected from the magazines and newspapers published in Japan from 1960's to 1990's. Fashion magazine has three functions : transmit information function, education and criticism function, advertisement and entertainment function. And, it has influenced on the street fashion by grasping the fashion trend and consumer needs, and communicating the vision to reader in Japan. The results were as follows : 1. the ivy look of 'Heibon Punch' in the 1960's, 2. the coordinate look of 'Anan' and 'Nanno', 3. the outdoor look of 'Popeye' in the 1970's, 4. the new traditional style of 'JJ' in the 1970's - 1980's, 5. lyceenne look of 'Olive' in the 1980's, 6. Shibu-Kaji style of 'McSister', 7. the supermarket style of 'Cutie' in the 1990's.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.761-773
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to explore the consumers' attitude and expectation-satisfaction on well-being products, Consumers' expectation, performance and disconfirmation scales were composed 7 items of 5-likert scales. Consumers' Satisfaction on well-being products was measured with one-item-measurement scale, The consumers' well-being attitudes were composed 4 dimensions such as (1)consuming the well-being products, (2)pursuit of mental well-being, (3)criticism about commercial fashion, (4) pursuit of harmony with natural life. The results were as follows: 1. The well-being attitudes were contrast with a positive attitude and negative attitude, Especially, criticism about commercial fashion was highly remarked. 2. There were statistic differences in the consumers' expectation and performance on well-being products, The Expectation was higher than the performance. It means that consumers' high expectation on the well-being products will bring about the lower satisfaction or dissatisfaction. 3. Consumers' Satisfaction on the well-being products was statistically different among groups by the well-being attitudes.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.540-551
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• 2019

This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.