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http://dx.doi.org/10.5805/SFTI.2019.21.5.540

What is Critical Fashion?  

Jung, Jung-hee (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University)
Yim, Eun-hyuk (Dept. of Fashion Design, Sungkyunkwan University)
Publication Information
Fashion & Textile Research Journal / v.21, no.5, 2019 , pp. 540-551 More about this Journal
Abstract
This study analyzes a new fashion phenomenon for critical fashion. Critical fashion is a message-centered fashion that delivers consciousness and sociocultural issues for contemporary society. The research method for this study combined literature reviews and case studies along with a research scope, that reviewed aspects of critical fashion through works, presentations, and images of collections, various media, and joint projects from the 2000s to the present day. This study indicates that critical fashion exhibits a conceptual pattern that metaphorically expresses the message of designers' perspectives on society and the fashion system. Critical fashion designers' socially critical messages began to emerge in avant-garde fashion influenced by avant-garde art movement that then developed into a conceptual fashion heavily influenced by conceptual art movement before it evolves into concepts of critical fashion. Critical fashion has been influenced by community-oriented critical art, which signifies that the characteristic of criticism of an art system is expressed through the language of fashion. In conclusion, critical fashion resists the idea of the integration of a cultural industry whose homogeneity is continuously collapsing the differences for the purpose of consumption and challenges to the established fashion system.
Keywords
critical art; critical design; critical fashion; avant-garde fashion; conceptual fashion;
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