• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.7 no.4
• /
• pp.361-370
• /
• 2005

This study was intended to investigate intertextuality expressed in fashion; intertextuality within fashion as sex, T.P.O., texture, and coordination and intertextuality between fashion and other genre like animation, music, film and technology. Intertextuality obtained by mixing the masculine and feminine text, coordinating various element without regarding T.P.O., texture has contributed to expending aesthetic realm and redefining the aesthetic value of traditional fashion design. The influence of animation, music, film on fashion and the interaction between these genre and fashion integrated high-class fashion and street-fashion, created the multicultural hybrid. Moreover according to the change of lifestyle the fashionable technical clothing was needed and developed. The intertextual tendency in the 21st-century fashion has given the new possibility of fashion design.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.37-45
• /
• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.26 no.5
• /
• pp.764-776
• /
• 2018

The purpose of this study is to serve as a reference for creative fashion design by analyzing the types and aesthetic characteristics of trompe l'oeil in contemporary men's fashion. This research is an empirical study that utilizes both qualitative and quantitative methods to analyze fashion design cases and research articles such as academic papers and professional books. The study covers four major men's collections: Paris, Milan, New York, and London. The period being analyzed is from 2005 Spring/Summer, which is widely regarded as a turning point at which men's collections began rapidly, to 2019 Spring/Summer. The study analyzes 471 photos from domestic and international websites, with the following results. Types of trompe l'oeil in contemporary male fashion are classified into four types: (1) the deconstruction of clothing forms or creation methods, (2) optical illusions that create the effect of multiple layers of clothing on a single article of clothing and the reproduction of apparel details and clothing using 2D printing or embroideries, (3) realistic patterns on garments to create a camouflage effect, and (4) articles of clothing containing body images such as the chest, trunk, or internal human anatomy. These aesthetic characteristics in men's fashion design using types of trompe l'oeil are playful, deconstructive, and decorative features based on hyper-reality. This study aims to acknowledge trompe l'oeil as being widely used in contemporary men's fashion as a type of formative art, playing a crucial role in creative fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.60-74
• /
• 2004

The purposes of this study are firstly to considered nudism of the sociocultural context, secondly to consider the cultural meaning of the nudism fashion expressed in the 2000's and thirdly to clarify formative characteristics of nudism fashion style in the 2000's. For these purposes, documentary studies about nudism in social science and psychology were analyzed and then objective studies with fashion magazine after the 2000 and clothes released at various collections were performed for studies about nudism fashion in the 2000's. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Nudism of the sociocultural context was divided into Naturalism, Counteracting culture, Eroticism and Narcissism. 2. Fashion, influenced by nudism, tended to express the beauty which emphasizes the functional aspects of nude and includes the decorative characters. 3. Nudism in the 2000’s fashion was summarized as Eroticism nudism fashion, Primitivism nudism fashion and Futurism nudism fashion.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.65-74
• /
• 2008

Religion is deeply connected with human culture and life, and affects all areas of religious people's lives. The aim of this study was to find out how fashion-conservativeness of religious people and non-religious people differ in Korea. Ten religious people and ten atheists all in their twenties were interviewed to find out the differences between religious people and non-religious people related to their viewpoints on clothes. The twenties age group was selected because people in their twenties are sensitive to fashions and styles, and a fair proportion of males and females were selected. The subjects were asked demographic questions, questions about their religion and faith, whether or not they thought they were conservative or affected by religion, and finally, what they thought of photographs of certain styles. 12 photographs from the 2006-7 F/W collections of London, Paris, New York and Milan were presented to the subjects. The photographs were from the Vogue U.K. website and divided into 6 major styles based on verbal evidence used to describe the collections in catwalk reports: "Sexy," "attitude/confidence," "luxury," "sophisticated/chic," "feminine," and "rock." In conclusion, religious people were found to be more conservative than non-religious people in their twenties because they prefer more conservative and covered up styles, have more negative views of bold and skin-showing trends, and regard some styles to be too sexy when non-religious people do not.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.67 no.3
• /
• pp.31-46
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this study is to analyse the occurrence and evolution of Mao suit which is important position in the modern costume history of China and to provide a source of design inspiration to contemporary fashion designers. In the research method, literature review and case studies was conducted in parallel. For the literature review, changes of Mao suit in each age were reviewed with reference to the related documents, Chinese costume and cultural history, prior research papers and internet resources. The case analysis was qualitatively done focusing on the silhouette, color and detail of clothes in fashion collections. The scope of the study was from 1912 to 2000. The case analysis of the Mao suit applied to the contemporary fashion was made on the applications centered around 'London Collection', 'New York Collection', 'Paris Collection', 'Milan Collection' and 'Chinese Fashion Week' from 2008 to 2015. The results found that Mao suit changed into many different forms after Sun Wen designed it for the first time in 1912. This study classified it into Phase 1(1912~1927), Phase 2(1928~1965), Phase 3(1966~1977), and Phase 4(1978~2000) with historical and political issues and conformational changes in Mao suit. The frequency analysis of the cases of the fashion collections using Mao suit from 2008 to 2015 showed an increased application of Mao suit to the western collection in New York, Paris and London in 2008 due to the impact of Beijing Olympics. However, from 2009 onwards, the frequency of the utilization of Mao suit was higher in the Chinese Fashion Week and the New York Collection. This cause is explained by the fact that the designers who inspired from Mao suit in the New York Collection are American Chinese.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.29 no.2
• /
• pp.153-166
• /
• 2021

In this study, the artistic background and formative nature of representative 19th century realist artists Gustave Courbet and Honoré Daumier were analyzed and applied in a fashion context. By displaying representational desires (necessary adhesions of man and society) in their work, they became characteristic matrixes of critical realism and to perceive critical realism. The purpose of the study was to apply the characteristics of critical realism to the contemporary fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Research was conducted to analyze the characteristics that appear in the field of fashion and to review methods of expression and internal aesthetics displayed through various aspects of fashion design. Characteristics of critical realism were analyzed by researching the formativeness and periodical background of the paintings of Courbet and Daumier. Based on these characteristics, analysis was conducted to identify critical realism in the fashion collections of Alexander McQueen. Data and scope included fashion information sites, internet photo data, and video material. Critical realist characteristics were categorized into five types as follows: 'The proper borrowing of extremely realistic subjects signifies', 'satirical reconstruction and narrative composition', 'antipathetic distortions and abject representations', 'critical reproductions based on technology', and 'the maximization of ambivalent sexuality'. It was concluded that the characteristics of critical realism (recognized by the common formation of Courbet and Daumier) also appeared in Alexander McQueen's fashion collection but were inherited in a form that transcended pictorial expression due to the overall difference in use of visual arts.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.39-52
• /
• 2004

The purpose of this comparative study what is the way to express difference fashion design between Japanese fashion designers and Western fashion designers in the 1990s. The design data were 422 pictures of contemporary fashion designs which represented the Japanism style design from fashion collections and analyzed by literature study and classification categories. The results were as follows : 1) Early general Japanism expression was directly borrowed from traditional fashion design elements and has changed indirectly with fashion trend. 2) Japanese fashion designers have used color, fabric, and pattern than shape to express Japanese traditional images. 3) Western fashion designers have directly borrowed aesthetic elements of Kimono design, that is, layering. bending, neck-line, sleeve, and traditional Japanese men's wear to express Japanism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.27 no.4
• /
• pp.336-352
• /
• 2019

This study examines the characteristics of expressing hippie styles in contemporary women's collections and analyzes them to benefit future fashion design and research. This study reviewed advanced research, fashion magazines, and information providers. The advanced research determined the study's scope by pinpointing the designers who introduced the hippie style into their collections. The results are as follows: First, the reproduced hippie style appears as the combination of various colors and materials, a convergence or mixture of styles, or the use of collage or patchwork. It employs natural silhouettes or varied colors and materials, which makes the renewed hippie style more luxurious than in the past. Second, the reproduced hippie style emphasizes and distinguishes between two types of femininity: a girlish, romantic image using A-line silhouettes and, bright, gleaming colors, and a sexy version that boldly exposes the body or women's curves and, uses soft and flexible materials. Third, the exotic tendencies found in the reproduced hippie style reflect the characteristics of the times, folk costume, or eastern or western features perceived as exotic. Recently, traditional costumes have changed slightly to recall characteristics found in the past. Fourth, the reproduced hippie style reflects hippies' affection for and interest in nature by using environmentally-friendly materials like natural fibers. Flowers, the symbol of hippies, appear most frequently.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.24 no.6
• /
• pp.903-919
• /
• 2016

This study aimed to contribute to the development of various female fashion designs by reviewing the genderless styles in androgynous trends that have loomed large in women's fashion, as well as through analyzing and organizing the changes in women's fashion that were required in a society in which various values coexist. A literature review was conducted to identify the genderless concepts, through which a total of 1,273 materials were selected from 10 brands of the S/S collections, during the period of 2006~2016. The results were as follows: first, without the juxtaposition of incongruous objects or images and a fixed type of color arrangements, the compromise shown in women's fashion were mostly expressed through various tones and diverse colors, and with the mixed use of heterogeneous patterns and materials. Second, the enjoyment of genderless styles was expressed with the unexpectedness that occur through symmetry/asymmetry and harmony/disharmony, as well as through the deviation from conventional notions regarding clothing structures. Third, the exaggeration expressed in women's clothing collections perfectly covered up a woman's body shape with the silhouette of exorbitantly expanded bulk and dimensions. These were done with extended lengths, expanded adornments, and modified clothing design types or structures. Fourth, the sensuality of genderless styles analyzed in women's fashion was expressed with mannish clothing that accentuates the beauty of the female body. Lastly, the historicity shown in genderless styles was expressed through clothing that represented traditional styles of the past, the symbolic meanings expressed in the clothes' colors and patterns, and the methods in which the decorative factors were utilized.